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#1. Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:12:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? That's awfully expen$ive to just replace the rotors on all four corners. Were the pads replaced as well? I have 29k miles on my car, have been to two track events, one autox, and drive in much stop and go and crazy NYC/NJ driving. While my rotors have a nice lip to them, I think they still have some life left. YMMV. Chester --- Luis Veras <veras@tricom.net> wrote: > Today I spent about $750 changing the brake discs, as they were due. How > often should I expect to make this expense? This car is only used as a daily > driver (ie. no autoxing), but I do tend to drive quite hard 60% of the time. > Thanks. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:35:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? god I suck. 77k miles and I haven't touched the brakes at all. lazy too. I haven't even cleaned the wheels in months... I am suspicous of one thing though. It seems that as I put on the miles, the braking performance gets worse and worse if the brakes are cold. But if I warm them up, its really good, and stays good for a few days even when cold. Then after a while the cold performance degrades again. pad material on the rotors? (everything is stock) Jason On Mon, 7 May 2001, Chester Wong wrote: > Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:12:26 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? > > That's awfully expen$ive to just replace the rotors on all four corners. Were > the pads replaced as well? I have 29k miles on my car, have been to two track > events, one autox, and drive in much stop and go and crazy NYC/NJ driving. > While my rotors have a nice lip to them, I think they still have some life > left. > > YMMV. > > Chester > > --- Luis Veras <veras@tricom.net> wrote: > > Today I spent about $750 changing the brake discs, as they were due. How > > often should I expect to make this expense? This car is only used as a daily > > driver (ie. no autoxing), but I do tend to drive quite hard 60% of the time. > > Thanks. > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#3. Diff fluid boil over - from dHoleman@spooze.com
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Date: 7 May 2001 18:02:59 -0700 From: dHoleman@spooze.com Subject: Diff fluid boil over Last weekend at Road America I found that my diff was leaking. Upon further inspection it appears that fluid is comming from the top. It is my understanding that there is some sort of port at the top that allows excess fluid to escape. My guess is that with the new motor and higher revs I am boiling over the diff fluid. I understand that in some race applications that this port at the top is tapped and the overflow caught in an expansion tank. Can anyone elaborate on this or provide suggestions. I don't want to leak fluid on the track for other drivers and I don't want to dry out my diff. David Holeman www.racepad.com www.racepad.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? - from Luis Veras
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Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 22:42:36 -0400 From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? Yeah, the pads were replaced too. Also, bear in mind that I'm in the Dominican Republic, where this type of things tend to be a bit more expensive than in the US. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? > Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:12:26 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] How often should brake discs be changed? > > That's awfully expen$ive to just replace the rotors on all four corners. Were > the pads replaced as well? I have 29k miles on my car, have been to two track > events, one autox, and drive in much stop and go and crazy NYC/NJ driving. > While my rotors have a nice lip to them, I think they still have some life > left. > > YMMV. > > Chester > > --- Luis Veras <veras@tricom.net> wrote: > > Today I spent about $750 changing the brake discs, as they were due. How > > often should I expect to make this expense? This car is only used as a daily > > driver (ie. no autoxing), but I do tend to drive quite hard 60% of the time. > > Thanks. > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#5. Re: [OT] In-Car Video and Video-for-the-web production (long) - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 22:13:31 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [OT] In-Car Video and Video-for-the-web production (long) Hi Everybody. I want to thank everyone who replied (esp. Marc, Mel, Bora, David, Jason, Kevin, Neil, Steve and Ben, indirectly :-) ) for their comments on the videos. The consensus seems to be that MPEG-1 is both of acceptable quality and reaches the widest audience. As I become more proficient with my tools I may end up putting each video up in a couple of different formats (modem-ready, MPEG-1, MPEG-2, MPEG-4, whatever). This will probably happen _after_ I get some free ftp space and bandwidth, which should happen in the next few months. In the meantime, I may add a couple more MPEG-1 videos, as well as a simple text file of web page that describes each video so that visitors know what they're in for before downloading the big files. It was interesting to see that even in this small sampling of viewers Windows, MacOS and Linux were all represented ... I received a lot of questions, so I'm taking the liberty of answering them all together in one email, below (except for Kevin's). If you only saw the Laguna Seca video, be sure to see the Thunderhill one, too. *** 1 Equipment used, etc. The Thunderhill video was shot with a SONY TRV-82 Hi8 camcorder functioning as a simple VTR, with a RaceCam (http://www.racecam.com) RC200SVST camera connected via S-video. The engine mic is in the engine compartment where the battery "jump terminal" is located. The ambient mic is strapped to the cage behind my seat, and needs a better location and windscreeen. The SONY is in a foam-lined bag behind the passenger seat running of batteries, and there's a Radio Shack interference suppression filter between the RaceCam and the cigarette lighter (this made a big difference in mic noise / alternator noise pickup). The RaceCam is mounted rigidly to the cage, at about eye level for a passenger between the driver's and passenger's seats. I use a LANC remote (power and record functions) also made by Northeast Microelectronics to turn the SONY on and off and into and out of record. You'll note that by having a remote head that's rigidly mounted to the cage, there are no vibration issues whatsoever. Also, I need to have the RaceCam re-programmed to deal with this particular setup -- it expects more blackness at the top of the frame, and it's being fooled in making the dash darker than it needs to be. The Laguna Seca video is not my source at all -- it was shot with just a camcorder (SONY?) mounted on a special bar across the rear parcel shelf on Sherman Koo's E28 M5 -- thanks Sherm!. You'll notice the low-frequency movement of the entire picture -- that's picture stabilization in action, as the camcorder is pretty heavy and moves around due to g-loading, etc. The "problem" through the corkscrew is probably the tape mechanism complaining about the abuse it's under ... After I get back from the track, I process the video as follows: 1) Suck it onto hard disk with Pinnacle's Studio DC10plus v1.06.4 at 640x480 and 3000KB/s data rate. By definition, the codec used is the DC10plus' MJPEG codec. Sound is 16bit/44kHz from start to finish, and I feed the camcorder's outputs through a Behringer MDX1400 compresser/limiter/gate/expander in order to limit the dynamic range and clean it up a bit. 2) I use AVSync to make sure audio and video are synch'd. 3) Then I use VirtualDub v1.04c to deinterlace, 2:1 reduce and crop the bottom eight lines off (my camcorder has an artifact down there), and use DC10plus MJPEG codec compression at 90% quality and 600KB/s target data rate (the actual rate is around 450KB/s). 4) Create a project in Studio, make the titles, effects and audio fades, then Make Movie @ 320x236 using Intel Indeo v4.4 codec, target data rate of 1200KB/s and 90% quality. 5) Finally, use Xing MPEG encoder to create MPEG-1 output, "match source" option. All of this is done on a 533MHz Celeron (not Coppermine). More details on the system can be found on Pinnacle's website http://www.pinnaclesys.com in the DC10plus forums -- search for aekalman and look at my profile. *** 2 Playability I don't know why QT5 would choke on the THill video -- I just installed QT5 last night as QT4 couldn't handle them, and although I'm finding QT5 to have a variety of video artifacts and problems (unrelated to what it's playing), I had no problem playing the .mpg and .avi source on two different machines. *** 3 Mic Placement I really need to move the second mic, but I think I'm gonna move it to my helmet. That's still a work in progress ... *** 4 Car Setup My LWT is bone stock (no chip, stock suspension, stock brakes, etc.) with all of the LWT parts on it, and with Dinan front camber plates at various different settings. I run either stock wheels or SSR 17x8 Integrals with 235/40-17 Yok A032's all around. Brake pads are now Pagid Orange. The car has a complete weld-in cage, racing seats, fire system, etc -- i.e. all the safety stuff is there, but the rest of the car is original. *** My Driving Well, it obviously needs a lot of work. Turns 2 and 5 especially at Thunderhill continue to cause me problems. After that video was taken I completely changed my Turn 3 approach, with much success, and also stopped braking for Turn 8 (just a little lift) and moved my 2-3 shift point out of Turn 15 back 30 feet (!). Also, my car really pushes badly in high-speed turns, and after looking at the bizarre tire wear I think I'm gonna decamber the front about half a degree and see where that leads me. Anyway, thanks for the feedback. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Help! Stripped Hex Threaded Strut Rod on Bilstein - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 01:18:30 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help! Stripped Hex Threaded Strut Rod on Bilstein Geof, I don't know how important the hex socket is. I don't need to hold the shaft from turning on my Bilsteins. It won't turn. Same for another set of Bilsteins I worked on. However, other guys have said their shafts do turn. I would just try to undo the top strut nut without trying to hold the shaft. If it works, fine. If it does turn, have you got an air impact wrench? If yes, then try zapping it off with the air wrench. If not, take it to a friend or garage with an air wrench. If air wrench does not work, use a large pair of Vise Grips to clamp onto the shaft as high up as you can. Don't worry about damaging the shaft. Remember a Bilstein is a monotube. It is upside down. What you see is actually the body. Plus, the upper part of the shaft never gets used. Good luck, Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilstein/Dinan Dallas, Texas
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#7. E46 M3's, only $20 over list! - from Steve
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Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 01:53:17 -0700 From: Steve <sgrigory@pacbell.net> Subject: E46 M3's, only $20 over list! Saw them today in the Fresno, CA BMW dealership... A black/black coupe, a LS blue/light grey coupe and a red/black convertible. All marked up $20k...ouch! I didn't talk to any sales people, so who knows what the real markup is. steve
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#8. E46 M3's...only $20k over list! - from Steve
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Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 01:57:54 -0700 From: Steve <sgrigory@pacbell.net> Subject: E46 M3's...only $20k over list! Saw them today in the Fresno, CA BMW dealership... A black/black coupe, a LS blue/light grey coupe and a red/black convertible. All marked up $20k...ouch! I didn't talk to any sales people, so who knows what the real markup is. I did score a spiffy "BMW 2001 M" brochure though- 103 pages! Covers the M Roadster, M Coupe, M3 Coupe, M3 Convertible and M5. Good coffee readin' I'm sure! steve
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#9. Cooling System part - from bmw
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Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 03:19:20 -0700 (PDT) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: Cooling System part BMP now has the Aluminum therm housing in stock, I ordered mine on Friday and received it yesterday. The cost was 39.95 plus shipping. Tony 95M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#10. Thermostat Housing - from Steve D'Gerolamo
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Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 07:47:22 -0400 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <steved3@idt.net> Subject: Thermostat Housing Subject: Cooling system part > > Hi guys, > > Last month at the BMW CCA school at Buttonwillow, the instructor who was > giving the lectures to the A group talked about a plastic piece in the E36 > cooling system which should be replaced with an aluminum one. No its not > the plastic impeller water pump. He said that this piece tends to crack. > He even looked at my M3 and showed me hair line cracks in it. He said he > thought you could get it at BMP. I have not been able to find this part. ============================================ Sounds like the thermostat housing....these run $35-40 with the appropriate gaskets. I keep these in stock...they are an aftermarket part (BMW housing is plastic). SD ================================== Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage - Tel 201-262-0412