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#1. coilover suspensions - one more brand to consider? - from Scott Yu
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:13:22 -0700 From: "Scott Yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: coilover suspensions - one more brand to consider? Has anyone heard of FK Coilovers? They were recommended to me by a retailer who's selling H&R Coilovers for $1400, with the FKs coming in at $1650. They're front and rear ride-height adjustable, with SA Koni Sports and a *lifetime warranty*, which seems very nice. Just another thing to confuse y'all, scott yu
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#2. Brake pads - from Scott Chan
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Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 15:28:22 -0700 From: Scott Chan <scottch@juniper.net> Subject: Brake pads If you decide that you would like R4S pads, I have a set of new-in-box E36 M3 R4S front pads. List is $99, minus 20% "E36 M3 list discount" they cost me $79.20. You can have them for $65 plus shipping from Mtn View, CA. I am selling them because I anticipate selling my street M3 before I need to replace the pads. I use R4S on my tow vehicle, they work great. They don't fade and stink like the OEM pads did when descending big grades towing a trailer. No problem with cold stops. Dust is relatively light. I also used R4S on the rear of one of my previous street/track cars, and they were fine. I have no experience using the R4S on the front brakes of any track car, so I can't comment on how well they take that abuse. -- Scott
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#3. Brake pad selection help - from Gardner, Russell - BALTO
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:46:58 -0400 From: "Gardner, Russell - BALTO" <russell.gardner@piperrudnick.com> Subject: Brake pad selection help Steven Tom asks for help in selecting Porterfield R4S or Hawk HP+ "for a couple of track days and some autox." My advice is don't use R4S pads for the track; they are street and autox pads (and damn fine ones). Use the R4 compound pads for the track. Its a fine track pad for all but the most heavy-footed driver, and its compound is compatible with the street-only R4S. I don't have personal experience with the Hawk pads but their reputation is that they are yesterday's pads. There are better ones out there (like R4!). Russ Gardner NCC ____________________________________________________________________________ The information contained in this communication may be confidential, is intended only for the use of the recipient named above, and may be legally privileged. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication, or any of its contents, is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please re-send this communication to the sender and delete the original message and any copy of it from your computer system. Thank you. For more information about Piper Marbury Rudnick & Wolfe, please visit us at http://www.piperrudnick.com/ ____________________________________________________________________________
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help - from Jim Powell
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Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 16:01:12 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help Steve doesn't really want to change brake pads for most applications if he doesn't have too. The R4 squeels like a pig on the street. Side note to Chip: Chip what is the Hawk pad you recommend for dual use? Steve drives at Buttonwillow almost all the time and that isn't really a track that is hard on pads. "Hawks. Yesterdays pad for yesterday's E36M3." Jim "Gardner, Russell - BALTO" wrote: > Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:46:58 -0400 > From: "Gardner, Russell - BALTO" <russell.gardner@piperrudnick.com> > Subject: Brake pad selection help > > Steven Tom asks for help in selecting Porterfield R4S or Hawk HP+ > "for a couple of track days and some autox." > > My advice is don't use R4S pads for the track; they are street and > autox pads (and damn fine ones). Use the R4 compound pads for the track. > Its a fine track pad for all but the most heavy-footed driver, and its > compound is compatible with the street-only R4S. I don't have personal > experience with the Hawk pads but their reputation is that they are > yesterday's pads. There are better ones out there (like R4!). > > Russ Gardner > NCC > > ____________________________________________________________________________ > The information contained in this communication may be confidential, is intended only for the use of the recipient named above, and may be legally privileged. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication, or any of its contents, is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please re-send this communication to the sender and delete the original message and any copy of it from your computer system. > Thank you. > > For more information about Piper Marbury Rudnick & Wolfe, please visit us at http://www.piperrudnick.com/ > ____________________________________________________________________________ > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help - from Steve Sun
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:12:27 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help > anyone ever had these at the track? How do they perform? Fade? I've > heard from a couple of people that use the R4S and they said that they like > them quite a bit. I wouldn't mind any other input. I don't know about the Hawk HP+, but the R4S suck on the track. But take this with a grain of salt. It all depends on your braking, and what track you're on. I had the R4S at Gingerman and they faded within the 2nd lap. The R4S are better than stock pads, IMO, but they are in no way a track pad. But if you are a beginner, you won't be braking that hard, and I think they might be fine. OTOH, I was at Road America over the weekend and my new R4 pads were just awesome. No fade lap after lap. They do squeal more than an 18-wheeler though, so I might take them off for the street. I'm usually too damn lazy to change pads every time I go to the track, but the squeal is killing me. Hope this helps, Steve 99 M3
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#6. Over-rev and Compression Test - from Steve Sun
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:20:25 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Over-rev and Compression Test I went to the dealer to get a compression and leak-down test because of an over-rev this weekend. It turns out that the over-rev was recorded at the max allowable value, 8160 rpm. But the dealer did the compression test, and all cylinders were at 205-210 psi. I believe this is normal. They told me that they didn't feel a need to do the leak-down, because the compression #s were so good. Should I be concerned that the over-rev was that high? I have heard that with 8160 rpm, the valves definitely got dinged. Am I just lucky, or should I go ahead and do a leak-down as well? Will the leak-down tell me everything? I don't want to take the head off and find that everything is OK. Thanks in advance, Steve 99 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Over-rev and Compression Test - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:45:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Over-rev and Compression Test Sorry to add a question instead of offering an answer, but what is a good value for the compression test? I'm getting a compression test done on a 95 tomorrow.. 89k miles. And what does the leakdown test do? Verify that nothing leaks? Down? :) thanks! - reid > I went to the dealer to get a compression and leak-down test because of an > over-rev this weekend. It turns out that the over-rev was recorded at the > max allowable value, 8160 rpm. But the dealer did the compression test, > and all cylinders were at 205-210 psi. I believe this is normal. They > told me that they didn't feel a need to do the leak-down, because the > compression #s were so good. > > Should I be concerned that the over-rev was that high? I have heard that > with 8160 rpm, the valves definitely got dinged. Am I just lucky, or > should I go ahead and do a leak-down as well? Will the leak-down tell me > everything? I don't want to take the head off and find that everything is > OK. > > Thanks in advance, > > Steve > 99 M3
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#8. Re: Which Tires - from Bob Smith
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 16:55:07 -0700 From: "Bob Smith" <bob421@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Which Tires I'm very happy with the Yoko AVS Sports. I replaced the Pilot MXXXX at 21K miles with the Yoko Sports. Similar dry to the MXXXX but better in the wet. I now have 23k miles on the Yoko's and estimate another 8k miles left. This is after 3 driving schools on them. Bob Smith 98 M3/4 Sharked, Gilled, and X braced 95 540i 6 spd - Heavily Dinanized >From: Brent95M3@aol.com >Subject: Which Tires > >Probably a can of worms I'm opening up here, just want some reviews on >tread wear, performance (wet and dry), and any other opinions. >The tire choices are as follows: >Bridgestone PP S-02 ($173 each) >Yokohoma AVS Sport ($162 each) >Yokohoma AVS Intermediate ($101 each)
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#9. front bumper cover - from Joe Kannookadan
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:56:31 -0500 From: "Joe Kannookadan" <joe.kannookadan@sourcelight.com> Subject: front bumper cover I'm tired of looking at my chipped-to-death front bumper cover (damn that PO), so I looked into repainting it. The shop tells me it's best if I get a new bumper cover since mine is so badly chewed up. "I wouldn't be happy with the results" if they were to strip this one and repaint it. Anyone out there know a good/*cheaper* source for the OEM part? I'm quoted at $400 from the shop. New or used would be welcome actually. Thanks! --- joe
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:03:28 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <mel.silva@pdq.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help ACK! Word of warning to Steve. If you don't take the R4 pads off for street driving, your rotors will look like a cheap block of cheddar cheese that a maniac wielding a cheese grater went after! They hate being cold. The R4 pads squeal like a stuck pig when they are COLD! They stink like burning... I don't know what, but it's bad, when they are working right. The min operating temp for the R4 pads is well over the (dry) boiling point of Motul 600 and require massive amounts of air to work well. Ask me how I know that someday 8-P . From what you've said so far, it sounds like you are not getting the R4 pads hot enough. I know when I had them (on an open-track prepped Mustang, see www.amt.org/mel) that my normally silver painted wheels looked like anthracite metallic after a day at the track from the dust generated by them. You could always call up Pegasus http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ and get some tempi-labels to be sure that you are in the operating range. As far as the Hawk pads go, I have used the Hawk Blue pads for the front and Black for the rear. The only problem I had with them was green fade (I am an official "dirt farmer" at Thunder Hill turn 3). After they were heat cycled properly, they never faded even under the severe conditions of 80+ temps at Thunder Hill braking from over 100 MPH into turn 14. I will say that the Porterfields were better at this, but I can drive the Hawk Blue on the street and they are only a little "grabby" when cold. The Blacks, eh, didn't notice a difference between them and stock Cobra pads. Sorry all these observations are from my Mustang days, but I was REALLY into it, back then. Makes me sad that I sold that car sometimes. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Steve Sun [mailto:stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu] Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 6:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:12:27 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pad selection help > anyone ever had these at the track? How do they perform? Fade? I've > heard from a couple of people that use the R4S and they said that they like > them quite a bit. I wouldn't mind any other input. I don't know about the Hawk HP+, but the R4S suck on the track. But take this with a grain of salt. It all depends on your braking, and what track you're on. I had the R4S at Gingerman and they faded within the 2nd lap. The R4S are better than stock pads, IMO, but they are in no way a track pad. But if you are a beginner, you won't be braking that hard, and I think they might be fine. OTOH, I was at Road America over the weekend and my new R4 pads were just awesome. No fade lap after lap. They do squeal more than an 18-wheeler though, so I might take them off for the street. I'm usually too damn lazy to change pads every time I go to the track, but the squeal is killing me. Hope this helps, Steve 99 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Over-rev and Compression Test - from Steve Sun
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:06:41 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Over-rev and Compression Test > Sorry to add a question instead of offering an answer, but what is a good > value for the compression test? I'm getting a compression test done on a > 95 tomorrow.. 89k miles. I'm told that anything over 200 psi is within spec. I don't know what the exact factory value should be though. > And what does the leakdown test do? Verify that nothing > leaks? Down? :) thanks! A leak-down test is when they fill the chamber with air and measures the loss of that air. I'm told that a leak below 10% is good, and when you go over 20% you might have some problems. I'm no expert on this stuff, I'm going by what the BMW master tech told me. Steve 99 M3