E36M3 #1258

Wednesday, May 09, 2001 23:24:52

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear - from CHRIS L
#2. Re: [E36M3] 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear - from Jim Powell
#3. M3 Picture Archive Help. - from Ben C. Tickner
#4. E46 LS Blue? - from Paul Elliott
#5. WTB track wheels + wheel weights q - from Mount, Mike
#6. 20 mm, how much life left - from Paul Elliott
#7. Re: Brake pad selection help - from Junaidi Irwan
#8. RE: [E36M3] Unique M3? (was "What's wrong with my nose?") - from Roman
#9. Re: [E36M3] front bumper cover - from M Driver
#10. re: staggered LTW wheels - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
#11. 17" Fikse FM5's for trade? - from Rob

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#1. 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear - from CHRIS L
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Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 17:47:48 -0700 From: "CHRIS L" <m3_838@hotmail.com> Subject: 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear <html><DIV> <P>Hi all</P> <P>I'm thinking to upgrade tires and rims for my 97 M3. </P> <P>Is 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear a good setting for my car??</P> <P>Thanks for your help :)</P> <P>Regards,</P> <P>Chris <BR><BR></P></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>

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#2. Re: [E36M3] 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear - from Jim Powell
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Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 17:54:15 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear It all depends on the wheel offset. When you know that, write back :) Jim CHRIS L wrote: > Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 17:47:48 -0700 From: "CHRIS L" Subject: > 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rearHi all > > I'm thinking to upgrade tires and rims for my 97 M3. > > Is 235/35/18/8.5 in the front, 255/35/18/8.5 in the rear a good > setting for my car?? > > Thanks for your help :) > > Regards, > > Chris > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > ************************************************************* List > Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the > mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's > GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested > file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with > the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. > *************************************************************

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#3. M3 Picture Archive Help. - from Ben C. Tickner
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 21:17:21 -0700 From: "Ben C. Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: M3 Picture Archive Help. Hello Everyone, I am revamping my M3 website and I would love some help with pictures. I am looking for pictures for each year the M was produced as well as each color/option (if possible). Don't worry about duplicates. I will have a page for each year/color. Please feel free to also send any info about your car along with any links (or let me know if you want to remain anon and your wish will be granted) Thanks for your help! Ben- 95 M3/2 Black

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#4. E46 LS Blue? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 22:23:36 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: E46 LS Blue? I just read a thread on that trashrag, Bimmer.org, and there's = something I dont understand....I've seen two distinct versions of what is = commonly called Laguna Seca blue. One looks similar to avus blue, or even to that blue that the early S4s would come in...But the second is the one I've known as Smurf Blue, ie, a much more washed out, pale version of the former...People have said its due to the way different digital cameras are catching the light, etc, etc.....But if I'm not mistaken, I saw one at a distance on the road the other day, and it too, looked = like the darker S4 blue, and not the awful Smurf blue I've seen pictures = of.. =20 So, does anybody know, is this simply a byproduct of the digital camera revolution, or, has anybody seen in person this difference I've seen pictorially? =20 --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 30K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads; Steiger = SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#5. WTB track wheels + wheel weights q - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:25:01 -0700 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: WTB track wheels + wheel weights q Howdy, looking for a set of wheels (and skins if mounted and reasonably priced) for mu '95 M3. Looking for 17 x 8's and does anyone know the url which lists wheel weights? Specifically, BBS RK and RX and also Mille Miglia MMII-2 in 17 x 8. Anyone know of a good source or thinking of selling their wheels? Mike

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#6. 20 mm, how much life left - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 22:34:31 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: 20 mm, how much life left >>I have about 20mm of brake pad left (original stockers, apx. 48k miles).<< =20 How are you measuring? Cause, Ive always measured just the friction material, and have found that most pads start life with about 12mm thickness...So, where you come up with 20 mm left, I'm not sure...Perhaps youre measuring including the backing plate? Anyway, to extrapolate, I usually calculate from a 12mm start point, and plan to replace them when there's 2 - 3 mm left. Then just figure how long it took you to wear out what you have, and take it from there. Not = exactly rocket science! =20 --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 30K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads; Steiger = SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#7. Re: Brake pad selection help - from Junaidi Irwan
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Date: 9 May 2001 21:48:24 CDT From: Junaidi Irwan <junaidi.irwan@usa.net> Subject: Re: Brake pad selection help Steven wrote: > It's almost coming to an end. I've narrowed my choices to either > Porterfield R4S or Hawk HP+. Any input on these would be much > appreciated. I plan on doing a couple of track days and some autox. Steven, I use the R4S since 2 years ago without no problems except the squealing noise. But that can be cured by applying the BMW plastilube (brake pad paste). In terms of performance, they are great. They also dust less than stock pads. As other fellow bimmerheads say, don't use the R4S on the track. I hope this help. Jay ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

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#8. RE: [E36M3] Unique M3? (was "What's wrong with my nose?") - from Roman
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 20:13:10 -0700 From: Roman <roman@arteuro.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Unique M3? (was "What's wrong with my nose?") Hi All, While on the subject, how rare would a 96 Boston Green with upgraded black leather interior be? I have seen a couple of Boston Green M3s but both had tan interiors. Just curious :) Cheers, Roman S. 96 ///M3 Boston Green with black leather interior. -----Original Message----- From: Wen Liew To: E36M3 Sent: 5/9/01 9:44 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Unique M3? (was "What's wrong with my nose?") Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 09:34:35 -0700 From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Unique M3? (was "What's wrong with my nose?") >From: "Mel Silva" <mel.silva@pdq.net> >http://www.geocities.com/melsilva/M3_Window.html M3 sedan, 5 speed, Byzanz/Mulberry, lux ... how rare or maybe unique is that? Sedans were made in 97, 98, lux pkg for sedans was only available in 97, 5 speed sedans are rare, Byzanz was a 97 only color (short of special order) and a rare one, etc. Mel, you might be the owner of the ONLY M3 in that combo, congrats! 1997 M3s 1,000 cars (5000 from 94-99, 1000 units total in 96,99?) 50% sedan x 0.5 = 500 50% 5 speed x 0.5 = 250 50% lux x 0.5 = 125 Byzanz x 1/9 x 0.5 (9 colors, Byzanz assumed to be rare) = 6.9 Mulberry x 1/4 (Black, Dove Grey, Magma, Mulberry) = 1.7 < 2 Wen _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************

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#9. Re: [E36M3] front bumper cover - from M Driver
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 20:25:43 -0700 (PDT) From: M Driver <m3tec@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] front bumper cover Joe, Comments below ... --- Joe Kannookadan <joe.kannookadan@sourcelight.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:56:31 -0500 > From: "Joe Kannookadan" > > I'm tired of looking at my chipped-to-death front > bumper cover (damn that > PO), so I looked into repainting it. PO ?? Has it ever been repainted ? From my experience, the original factory paint does not chip bad. If this is OEM finish, try to live with the blems. It is rare to get a re-paint that is better than OEM. But since you say "chipped", I would suspect it has been repainted. > The shop tells me it's best if I get a > new bumper cover since mine is so badly chewed up. > "I wouldn't be happy > with the results" if they were to strip this one and > repaint it. Couple of options/opinions here. 1. If they can FINISH a NEW cover, and warranty it from chips, peels, cracks, etc. for $400.00, that sounds reasonable. This means a NEW, OEM cover, not a Chinese copy or a re-man (there are shops that specialize in refinishing damaged urethane bumper-covers, and offering them to the insurance adjusters at a discount). The appearance of re-finished covers varies a bit, and of course that is all in the-eye-of-the-beholder. The covers I have done get a 2-part epoxy primer-filler. Then a wet-sand with worn 400# (if the surface is too smooth, the bite of the color-coat is reduced), and a color-coat within 12 hours with an acrylic-urethane or enamel combined with a catylist/flex additive. There is also an "adhesive-agent" type product to enhance the bite of the color to the base primer. You could clear-coat if additional "depth" or gloss is required (I have never done this myself). BTW, I prep the bumper-cover OFF the car, and shoot the backside as well. 2. The best way I have found to "strip" all the paint from a urethane cover is to have it Plastic Media Blasted (PMB). This IMO is the only way to remove paint. The grit of the plastic media, and the air pressure can be adjusted to take off layers of paint, one-by-one. (In other words, it does minimal damage to the base surface (metal or plastic) unlike sand-blasting which remove the protective Zinc-Galv plating from metal surfaces). With PMB you could strip all the paint off a car, but leave the factory primer intact! After PMB stripping, I have gone with the above epoxy-primer and refinishing technique. HTH, Let us know how it works out. ===== Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Best regards, Bob Stoll 98M34 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/

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#10. re: staggered LTW wheels - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 00:12:38 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: re: staggered LTW wheels I agree the area of the contact patch does not change with wider rims. I argue it is simply a measure of tire pressure. Say you have 800 lbs of weight on the tire. Say air pressure is 40 psi. Then area of contact patch is 800 / 40 = 20 in^2. The actual contact patch is probably a little smaller since the sidewalls probably support a little of the weight but this gets you in the ball park. However, wider rims do BRACE the contact patch better. Gives the tire better lateral support which is good for corning prowess. Consider an extreme example. Say you put the tire in a 1" wide rim. The tire would flop side to side like a flag every time you put any lateral load on it. But then take the same tire and somehow stretch it to fit a 20" wide rim. It would almost be flat to the rim. And it would have zero lateral movement. So wider rims can improve cornering ability even though the tire carcass is the same. Then there is my pet peeve regarding the '95 M3. BMW never ever should have mounted 235/40-17 tires on 7.5" rims. NO tire manufacturer recommends that fitment. EVERY tire manufacturer recommends a minimum 8.0" wide rim for a 235/40-17 tire. Tire makers recommend 8.0 to 9.5 inch wide rims for the 235/40-17 size. M3's should have come with 8.5" (or wider) rims front and rear from day one IMHO. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - 8.5" BMW forged rims front and rear Dallas, Texas

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#11. 17" Fikse FM5's for trade? - from Rob
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 22:25:02 -0600 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: 17" Fikse FM5's for trade? Sorry for this WOB, but... I have a set of four Fikse FM5 17x8.5" et 37mm in the race anodized black finish and as much as I love them I am getting a bit bored of the way my car looks. Anyone interested in a trade for another light 17" wheel set?. Maybe FM10's, BBS RSll, Kinesis or...? Rob

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