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#1. Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 and drive for the cure - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 11:42:10 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 and drive for the cure Paul vents about Road Rage during his "drive for the cure". This guy was certainly as oblivious to your philanthropic intentions as he was about his driving abilities. I am certain I am in the clear minority when it comes to driving and recognizing when I accidentally make a bad move (no turn signal or nearly cut someone off). This is very rare mind you but at least I recognize when I intended to do a numb skull move (even if I did not do it) as opposed to just blaming everyone else. Driving is like a microcosm of society where everyone wants to place blame on someone else rather than take ownership of their own actions. Best regards, Rich - still a very novice driver in many aspects as I am far from perfect.
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#2. Removing Cats - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 10:54:08 -0500 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Removing Cats Since someone mentioned catalytic converters when comparing Euro M3's, what would be the result of removing the cats from a 95 US M3 in terms of horsepower and torque? Would there be any loss of low end torque? Would it make any noticeable difference in performance? Assuming of course that emissions is not an issue. A.J.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] power loss - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 09:21:01 -0700 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] power loss FYI... even with the a/c on, it shuts off on WOT. -Bobby '98 M3 sharked http://rchay.home.mindspring.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Conte" <leeconte@home.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 9:44 AM Subject: RE: [E36M3] power loss > Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 09:39:03 -0700 > From: "Lee Conte" <leeconte@home.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] power loss > > <Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 06:12:02 -0400 > <From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > <Subject: Re: [E36M3] power loss > < > <Maybe I've lived in the crowded Northeast too long, but where to y'all find > <places you can SAFELY cruise for miles in the 100mph range? > > I know exactly where you're coming from. I just moved here from NJ a few > months ago. But I'm telling you ... I live in east San Diego county now. > Go east from here on the 8 and traffic thins to nothing about 5-10 miles > out. Beyond that, it's just a car here and there, and they're usually all > going around 80. BTW, anyone else from around here ... is 94 out to Campo > a favorite drive or what? > > And thanks to everyone for the other replies. I'm going to have to try some > 0-60s again driving solo and a/c off. I don't mind if it's just that I *am* > getting used to it .. maybe I'm reading too much about people's performance > with major mods or something. I still completely love the car of course. > > Lee Conte > Spring Valley CA US > NIA#6917 > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] power loss - from Daniel Smith
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 09:42:53 -0700 From: Daniel Smith <dls@daniel.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] power loss At 12:44 AM -0500 5/20/01, Lee Conte wrote: > I have a stock 98 M3 coupe. For the past few days, I haven't been driving > it very hard, but I've been noticing it just hasn't felt "right", just not > as much of a blast to drive as usual. How many miles? Original fuel filter? My mechanic just replaced that on my '97 M3 (32000 miles)... -- Daniel L. Smith - dls@daniel.org - Sonoma County, CA
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#5. '99+ 3-Spoke Wheel into '95 M3 - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 10:47:00 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: '99+ 3-Spoke Wheel into '95 M3 I've never been a big fan of the 4-spoke wheel in the 3-series. It's slightly too large, I don't like the feel when holding at 9-and-3, etc. I considered putting in a Momo wheel, but the absence of an airbag in my street car held me back. The solution? The 3-spoke wheel in the '99 is slightly smaller, has a better grip, and is way more stylish. It has an airbag that integrates into the factory system, so your safety is still maintained. Below are step-by-step instructions on how to do the conversion. I will be polishing up the instructions and posting it (with pictures) to the web when I'm done. I'll e-mail the URL out. In the meantime, here they are. Thanks to Alan Taur for his parts list. You can see pics of his very pretty car and the 3-spoke wheel at: ( http://www.hghtransitional.com/public/95M3/front_interior.htm ) I bought the wheel and airbag used for $500, grabbed the lock support piece as Alan had recommended, and bought the correct spindle/reel thanks to the (normally rude, but in this case helpful) folks at Weatherford BMW. Enjoy! - peterg P.S. Use these instuctions at your own risk. I in no way imply that this procedure is safe and I am not a professional, so this is simply the path I took -- this is not a technical recommendation for litigation-happy shade-tree mechanics! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The parts you'll need are: Steering wheel: 32 34 2 228 230 $320.30 retail Air bag: 32 34 2 229 030 $622.50 retail Lock support: 32 31 1 162 088 $3.16 retail SRS Reel/horn ring/spindle -- part number to come -- approx. retail $120 (this item should already be attached to the wheel) A used wheel/airbag from an M Coupe or Roadster should work, but keep in mind that the spindle at the base of the wheel needs to be the one from the '99 M3. This is to mate properly to the airbag and to the horn wiring. You'll know the reel is correct because it will have two connectors of four wires on the back -- a blue/brown combo (the horn) and a harness for the airbag (plugs in where the old airbag wiring was). A really complex wiring harness at the base of the wheel means you have the wrong one. ;-) The Procedure: - Make sure your wheels are pointed straight ahead and your steering wheel is perfectly level. - Disconnect your positive battery terminal and let the car sit for 10 minutes to clear the electicity out of the syustem - Using a torx socket, carefully unscrew the two bolts holding the airbag. These bolts are in recesses on the back of the wheel. - Remove airbag, disconnecting the harness from the back. Carefully place the airbag face down away from your work area. - Unscrew the black plastic screw from the bottom and top of the steering column cover. Do not remove the screw completely -- leave a bit in and pull the screw out. This will remove the base that actually holds the cover on. - Pull the black plastic cover off of the steering column. It simply "clicks" into place, so you can just tug on it to pull it apart. - Using a 16mm socket, unbolt the steering wheel from the steering column. Disconnect the harness from the steering column. Pull the wheel off the column and put it aside. Here's where the real fun begins: - You will now see the lock support piece. On the '95, there are two items on the lock support piece that are not on the '99 -- a white probe that holds the spindle in place, and a copper contact that touches the horn ring on the '95 wheel. - Note the horn contact on the lock support. The wiring for this contact attaches to a harness on the steering column (a brown/red wire) and into a spring-loaded plastic case for the contact point. Clip the wire as close the plastic case as possible. You want to make use of the harness that connects to the column when you wire the horn on the new wheel. - Remove the turn signal and windshield wiper stalks from the lock support. Let them dangle. - Unbolt the lock support and remove it. - Install the new lock support. Reinstall the stalks. - Look at the base of the 3-spoke steering wheel. There is a white plastic harness with a brown and blue wire. Clip the white harness off. - Seal the end of the blue wire. It will not be used. - Attach a male or female connector to the brown wire. - Now you get to re-use the hold horn connector from the '95 wheel. It should already still be plugged in at the steering column. Attach a male or female connector (to connect to the brown wire on the wheel). - Plug the airbag harness in at the steering column (the wire colors don't sync up, but the harnesses will -- no worries). Connect the two horn wires. - Slide the wheel onto the column. Bolt it into place. - There should be three connectors (4 total wires) on the other side of the airbag. The blue wire screws into the wheel, the brown wire attaches to a metal tab on the airbag. The airbag connector is an obvious one. - Connect the wires in the airbag. Place the airbag in the wheel and bolt it into place with the torx socket. - Close up the black covers on the column and you are done! - Reconnect the battery. Put the ignition to the "on" position and check to make sure the airbag light goes out and that the horn works. If both are fine, the conversion is complete! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#6. '99+ 3-Spoke Wheel into '95 M3 - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 10:47:07 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: '99+ 3-Spoke Wheel into '95 M3 I've never been a big fan of the 4-spoke wheel in the 3-series. It's slightly too large, I don't like the feel when holding at 9-and-3, etc. I considered putting in a Momo wheel, but the absence of an airbag in my street car held me back. The solution? The 3-spoke wheel in the '99 is slightly smaller, has a better grip, and is way more stylish. It has an airbag that integrates into the factory system, so your safety is still maintained. Below are step-by-step instructions on how to do the conversion. I will be polishing up the instructions and posting it (with pictures) to the web when I'm done. I'll e-mail the URL out. In the meantime, here they are. Thanks to Alan Taur for his parts list. You can see pics of his very pretty car and the 3-spoke wheel at: ( http://www.hghtransitional.com/public/95M3/front_interior.htm ) I bought the wheel and airbag used for $500, grabbed the lock support piece as Alan had recommended, and bought the correct spindle/reel thanks to the (normally rude, but in this case helpful) folks at Weatherford BMW. Enjoy! - peterg P.S. Use these instuctions at your own risk. I in no way imply that this procedure is safe and I am not a professional, so this is simply the path I took -- this is not a technical recommendation for litigation-happy shade-tree mechanics! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The parts you'll need are: Steering wheel: 32 34 2 228 230 $320.30 retail Air bag: 32 34 2 229 030 $622.50 retail Lock support: 32 31 1 162 088 $3.16 retail SRS Reel/horn ring/spindle -- part number to come -- approx. retail $120 (this item should already be attached to the wheel) A used wheel/airbag from an M Coupe or Roadster should work, but keep in mind that the spindle at the base of the wheel needs to be the one from the '99 M3. This is to mate properly to the airbag and to the horn wiring. You'll know the reel is correct because it will have two connectors of four wires on the back -- a blue/brown combo (the horn) and a harness for the airbag (plugs in where the old airbag wiring was). A really complex wiring harness at the base of the wheel means you have the wrong one. ;-) The Procedure: - Make sure your wheels are pointed straight ahead and your steering wheel is perfectly level. - Disconnect your positive battery terminal and let the car sit for 10 minutes to clear the electicity out of the syustem - Using a torx socket, carefully unscrew the two bolts holding the airbag. These bolts are in recesses on the back of the wheel. - Remove airbag, disconnecting the harness from the back. Carefully place the airbag face down away from your work area. - Unscrew the black plastic screw from the bottom and top of the steering column cover. Do not remove the screw completely -- leave a bit in and pull the screw out. This will remove the base that actually holds the cover on. - Pull the black plastic cover off of the steering column. It simply "clicks" into place, so you can just tug on it to pull it apart. - Using a 16mm socket, unbolt the steering wheel from the steering column. Disconnect the harness from the steering column. Pull the wheel off the column and put it aside. Here's where the real fun begins: - You will now see the lock support piece. On the '95, there are two items on the lock support piece that are not on the '99 -- a white probe that holds the spindle in place, and a copper contact that touches the horn ring on the '95 wheel. - Note the horn contact on the lock support. The wiring for this contact attaches to a harness on the steering column (a brown/red wire) and into a spring-loaded plastic case for the contact point. Clip the wire as close the plastic case as possible. You want to make use of the harness that connects to the column when you wire the horn on the new wheel. - Remove the turn signal and windshield wiper stalks from the lock support. Let them dangle. - Unbolt the lock support and remove it. - Install the new lock support. Reinstall the stalks. - Look at the base of the 3-spoke steering wheel. There is a white plastic harness with a brown and blue wire. Clip the white harness off. - Seal the end of the blue wire. It will not be used. - Attach a male or female connector to the brown wire. - Now you get to re-use the hold horn connector from the '95 wheel. It should already still be plugged in at the steering column. Attach a male or female connector (to connect to the brown wire on the wheel). - Plug the airbag harness in at the steering column (the wire colors don't sync up, but the harnesses will -- no worries). Connect the two horn wires. - Slide the wheel onto the column. Bolt it into place. - There should be three connectors (4 total wires) on the other side of the airbag. The blue wire screws into the wheel, the brown wire attaches to a metal tab on the airbag. The airbag connector is an obvious one. - Connect the wires in the airbag. Place the airbag in the wheel and bolt it into place with the torx socket. - Close up the black covers on the column and you are done! - Reconnect the battery. Put the ignition to the "on" position and check to make sure the airbag light goes out and that the horn works. If both are fine, the conversion is complete! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 and drive for the cure - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 13:55:09 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 and drive for the cure Paul writes: > Damn! The tour that was in Minneapolis this > past weekend didn't have an M3. I'm really > bummed now. Yeah, me too. I looked on the BMW web site. The Drive For The Cure doesn't come to Texas until September. However, no M3 is listed :( Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#8. Re: [E36M3] '99+ 3-Spoke Wheel into '95 M3 - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:05:23 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] '99+ 3-Spoke Wheel into '95 M3 Anyone know if this conversion could be done with the E46 M3 steering wheel onto an E36 M3 (minus all the radio controls, etc.)? That wheel feels really nice! Jonathan L. >From: peter@guagenti.com > >The 3-spoke wheel in the '99 is slightly smaller, has a better grip, and is >way more stylish. It has an airbag that integrates into the factory >system, >so your safety is still maintained. > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#9. E46 M3 exclusivity - from John Bergstrom
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:30:14 -0700 (PDT) From: John Bergstrom <john0990@yahoo.com> Subject: E46 M3 exclusivity I just can't believe it. Why would BMW who just sold 50000+ E36 M3's decide, well, let's make the car more exclusive and only sell 15000 or 20000 of the new model . . . that is absolutely crazy. I guess we'll see, as it's all pure speculation at this point . . .. >>>>I was talking w/my salesman about the new M3 last week. He told me I would have a 10 month wait if I wanted to order one. He also said that the new M3 will be a limited production car like the M5.<<<< John '95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3]Limited E46M3 Production - from Steve Challice
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:43:55 -0700 From: "Steve Challice" <steve.challice@mscsoftware.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3]Limited E46M3 Production Oh well if your salesman told you then it must be true. Expecting BMW salespeople to be honest is almost as foolish as expecting truck and SUV drivers to be courteous. ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 07:11:04 -0700 (PDT) > From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> > Subject: Limited E46M3 Production > > I was talking w/my salesman about the new M3 last week. He told me I > would have a 10 month wait if I wanted to order one. He also said that > the new M3 will be a limited production car like the M5. > > I guess BMW listened to some owners when they whined and suggested that > the E36M3 was too common and production should be low like the E30M3? > Guess we should be careful in what we wish for... > > Well time will tell us which is right and if the price and availably > will get better or worse. > > BTW, my personal guess is that there will not be a E46M4 4 door and > that you will have to purchase an M5 if you want 4 doors. Just like you > cannot get a 330iX wagon. Though I have been know to be wrong. :) > > My 2 cents. > > S >