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#1. RE: USPG - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 23:09:44 -0500 From: kmcleaster@iquest.net Subject: RE: USPG Look at : http://www.usgpindy.com/tickets/images/usgpmap.jpg I believe the best seats for F1 are in the Northwest Vista or Grandstand J. For the NW Vista, Row AA and higher will get you above the fence line. I was in Row G last year which is lower but the through-the-fence view was liveable. I'm not sure if the Grandstand J seat rows use the same convention. Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI '95 M3 Arctic Silver
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... - from Aleksandr Milewski
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 21:13:23 -0700 From: Aleksandr Milewski <n6mod@milewski.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... At 10:08 PM -0500 on 5/31/01, Brent Williams commanded the electrons to create a missive titled "[E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap...": |And assuming they are both same power... | |What would you do? | |Brent I've just made a similar decision. I had long assumed that once they became available, I would trade my S52US powered '00 M Coupe for a newer one with an S54. Having driven an E46M3 at Laguna recently, I've reconsidered in favor of forced induction. The impression I got was that the S54 basically doesn't have any more torque or power from idle to about 6000 rpm. By 6500 the S52US is running out of steam, while the S54 just keeps on cranking up to 7600. It probably does make a bit more power and torque, but that was masked by the heavier car. Now go look at Jim Powell's dyno graphs. The whole power curve is shoved about 80hp straight up. I'd rather have lots more power across the same power band than just a wider power band. That said, I'd go turbo, not supercharger, but that's a whole 'nother conversation. -Zandr -- --------------------------------------------------------------------- Aleksandr Milewski N6MOD n6mod@milewski.org http://www.milewski.org/
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#3. Re: bilsteins - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 06:38:14 -0400 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: Re: bilsteins I've got the Turner J-stock suspension setup in my e30 M3 track car. The shocks are revalved Bilsteins and the instructions (fron the factory, not Turner) clearly state that no bump stops are required. Bill Molina 95 M3 stock suspension _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#4. RE:Engine Options - from Vince Throckmorton
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 06:04:57 -0500 From: Vince Throckmorton <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> Subject: RE:Engine Options Scott, Check with abptuning.com they have 3.0 or 3.2 Euro EVO motors complete with computers for $9K. I believe these are around 321 H.P with similar torque of our US versions. They have an ad in Roundel. This gives you another option. Vince NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net
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#5. Re: US GP - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 08:20:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: US GP on 5/31/01 7:39 PM, "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > Looks like I'll be able to go to the USGP this year, who hoo! > > Any input as to where the best place to get tickets (location in the > stadium) is? Place to avoid: anywhere in the middle of the main straight, unless you just like snapping your neck trying to follow cars going by at 190 mph. Possible exception: if you can see the pit lane action. One very good place: Northwest Vista, which is where Indy turn 4 joins the main straight. Since the GP course runs in reverse, this area covers the braking and passing zone into GP turn 1, plus you can see the next several turns through the infield. You can also get a reasonable view of the cars approaching all the way along the main straight. We have seats in this area both for the 500 and for the US GP - very satisfactory. It's better to be roughly in the middle third of the way up in the stands: high enough for a view, but not in the nosebleed section. Neil 96 M3
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#6. Bilsteins, bumpstops, harsh, harsh, harsh, bouncy, bouncy, bouncy - from John Bergstrom
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 06:38:44 -0700 (PDT) From: John Bergstrom <john0990@yahoo.com> Subject: Bilsteins, bumpstops, harsh, harsh, harsh, bouncy, bouncy, bouncy >>>>I later installed HR Bilsteins (with trimmed bumpstops), which raised up the car about .5" and was initially happy with the way the car performed under most conditions....except on the highway, where the car seemed too "bouncy" at speed, particularly in the rear. I frequently hit bumps in the road (Hoboken, NJ) that would bottomed out the front suspension.<<<< OK, I just have to chime in here. I have been researching this. I had posted to the list a month or so ago asking if anyone had reached the same conclusions as me, that the Bilstein / H&R 29910 setup was great on track, but really sucks crap on the street in terms of harshness and overly-quick reacting ("bouncy"). Since then, I have driven the following setups: Bilstein (bumpstops not trimmed) / H&R 29910 / Eibach sways Bilstein (bumpstops not trimmed) / stock springs / RD sways Bilstein (bumpstops not trimmed) / Dinan springs / stock sways Koni SA / Eibach Prokit springs / Eibach sways Ground Control coilovers: Koni DA / Eibach springs / Eibach sways The summary is, any car I have driven with the Bilstein sport shocks is HARSH AND BOUNCY. That's the bottom line. However, I have spoken with Turner Motorsport and 911 Enterprises (dealer for Bilstein's) regarding trimming the bump stops and they both insist that unless you go much lower (H&R race springs, for example) you are NOT going to hit the bump stops. Am I saying that Lowell is wrong? I don't know. But this is getting really confusing. But the "data" that I have acculumated (particularly that I have driven a car with Bilsteins/stock springs and it was still HARSH and BOUNCY) suggests that trimming the bump stops WILL NOT HELP. Both cars that I drove with the Koni's . . . . street ride is BEAUTIFUL. NEAR OR BETTER THAN STOCK ON THE STREET. I did not drive these on track, so I can't compare the performance difference. I am seriously considering going to a Koni SA / Eibach Prokit setup. Anyone have Dinan's number? I agree with Mark, I have just about given up trying to figure this out. John '95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#7. [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 10:22:50 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... >-------------------- 9 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 23:35:32 -0400 >From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... > >> So heres the question... >> >> Supercharger from turner will boost 99 M3 to approx 350 horses. >> >> or >> >> I can buy a 3.2 litre Eurospec engine... And they "say" with chip and >> filter it can hit 350. >> >> So assuming they are both the same cost... > >Big assumption that I think is incorrect. A SC kit will probably run around >$6000 and comes with everything needed to install it. Good luck finding a >3.2L Euro M3 engine for that money, plus all of the extra parts and labor >necessary needed to install it. > >Nick >95 M3 turbo I would compare the cost of the supercharger versus the cost of the Euro engine (less what you can sell your engine for). In other words, if the supercharger cost $6,000 out the door and installed and the Euro engine was $10,000 installed (with your engine pulled) and you could get $4,000 for you engine, it would be a wash. I personally like the idea of the Euro engine and would do it in my car if I had the money to spend. This is an uninformed opinion for the most part but my understanding is Charles Stickley runs normal aspiration in his M3 LTW (after converting back from using forced induction) and he runs pretty fast (ask his competitors). Regards, Rich 95 M3 - only about 275 hp and in need of cams and injectors.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Opinions Wanted - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 10:25:55 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Opinions Wanted Tom, If you have brand new Bilstein struts and shocks laying on the bench, this is the perfect time to trim the bumpstops. It should be easy to open up the struts since they have not been exposed to the weather. If you can wait a couple of days, I'll post my procedure and pictures on the web. Personally, I think the Bilstein struts/shocks are the best inexpensive alternative. I think they are better quality, better finished, longer lasting than Koni SA. And remember Bilstein is the only monotube design out there. It has less unsprung weight by design. I think the stock OE Boge struts are junk. They are way too soft and don't last more than 30,000 miles. I steered away from Koni based on the advice of a local Dallas BMW performance shop. I think in retrospect his advice was a little dated. He had major problems with Koni 10-15 years ago. But I still think Bilstein is slightly better quality than Koni SA. Hence, that is why I went through all the effort to save my Bilsteins. I asure you if you trim the bumpstop in the front strut, the Bilstein will ride nearly identical to Koni SA. You will like the firmer, more controlled handling. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 10:51:08 -0400 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... Rich Says: "I would compare the cost of the supercharger versus the cost of the Euro engine (less what you can sell your engine for). In other words, if the supercharger cost $6,000 out the door and installed and the Euro engine was $10,000 installed (with your engine pulled) and you could get $4,000 for you engine, it would be a wash." This is a very good assumption but you will be amazed at what it costs you to put a Euro motor in a car. First if you are paying someone to do it then expect to pay between 50-80 hours of installation. Reason this varies is it will depend on if you use a 3.2L or 3.0L and the other equipment on your car. Then you have to factor in how complete your motor comes. I had to buy about $2000 in extra parts for my car when doing the swap but that included new clutch, radiator, alternator and some other parts. The Euro motor is a lot more money when you have it installed than when you get a SC. But the main question is what do you want the car for. If you are going to track the car and beat on it then I would get the Euro motor. The motor will be more reliable and you will love it. If you are going to drive the car on the street then the SC would be fine and cheaper. But I love my Euro motor and would do the swap again. I would do it over the SC if you have the money. I have had both cars and the Euro motor is a the crème of the crop. Just my opinion though. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 10:52:28 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... Seth, I agree whole heartedly with you, I just wanted people not to lose sight that there is an offset to the cost of a Euro motor and that is the value of the old motor you pull out. I assumed the cost of a Euro less the value of the old motor would still exceed the cost of the SC, but if I was going this far, I would go all the way for the Euro personally, whether for the street, street and track, or track only :-) Woohoo! Regards, Rich -----Original Message----- From: Seth Thomas [mailto:porsche993@mindspring.com] Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 10:51 AM To: Dorffer, Rich; E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Forced induction VS engine swap... Rich Says: "I would compare the cost of the supercharger versus the cost of the Euro engine (less what you can sell your engine for). In other words, if the supercharger cost $6,000 out the door and installed and the Euro engine was $10,000 installed (with your engine pulled) and you could get $4,000 for you engine, it would be a wash." This is a very good assumption but you will be amazed at what it costs you to put a Euro motor in a car. First if you are paying someone to do it then expect to pay between 50-80 hours of installation. Reason this varies is it will depend on if you use a 3.2L or 3.0L and the other equipment on your car. Then you have to factor in how complete your motor comes. I had to buy about $2000 in extra parts for my car when doing the swap but that included new clutch, radiator, alternator and some other parts. The Euro motor is a lot more money when you have it installed than when you get a SC. But the main question is what do you want the car for. If you are going to track the car and beat on it then I would get the Euro motor. The motor will be more reliable and you will love it. If you are going to drive the car on the street then the SC would be fine and cheaper. But I love my Euro motor and would do the swap again. I would do it over the SC if you have the money. I have had both cars and the Euro motor is a the creme of the crop. Just my opinion though. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com