E36M3 #1341

Friday, June 01, 2001 22:59:19

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] What about the S54? - from Luis Veras
#2. Re: Cordless impact wrench - from Neil Maller
#3. Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Saved!! - from Ron Katona
#4. Re: Cordless impact wrench - from Neil Maller
#5. Re: [E36M3] Cordless impact wrench - from Joe Dyer
#6. H&R coilovers - from Kit Wetzler
#7. Bilstein Saved!! - from Paul Elliott
#8. RE: Cordless Impact Wrench - from Richard Buchanan
#9. ASC-ABS lights on - Any clues? - from Dan Miley
#10. Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Saved!! - from Bora Akyol

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#1. Re: [E36M3] What about the S54? - from Luis Veras
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:28:28 -0400 From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What about the S54? I saw a completely crashed black one yesterday at my dealer, pretty ugly front collision. The guy will be placing this engine into a '98 E39. I'm in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. I've also heard (on this list) a couple other E46 M3s being totaled in LA and Las Vegas. However, I don't think it would be worth it. You can simply put a turbo in your S52 engine and it will be faster than an E46 M3 for less money. (Check out the AA turbo kit) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 7:18 PM Subject: [E36M3] What about the S54? > Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:15:36 -0400 > From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> > Subject: What about the S54? > > OK... Now heres a new twist... > > Assuming the new M3 and M Roadster has the M54 engines. With 325 horses per > say... > > How much work would it be to put in an E36? I mean it should bolt right up > right? Especially from a new Mroadster to and old Z3 or so. > > Thats an idea. How long till someone totals a new car? > > What are your thoughts.... > > How much work would it be? > > Brent > > b@bmwmpire.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#2. Re: Cordless impact wrench - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 18:51:58 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cordless impact wrench on 6/1/01 5:09 PM, Margaret Cheng <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> wrote: > I am toying with the idea of buying a cordless impact wrench. > I would like it to have enough power to loosen something > torqued to 80-85 ft/lbs, (caliper bolts, etc.) Margaret, The choice is narrow: which Snap-on model do you want? I use the Snap-on CT-310, which is 3/8" square drive, 12V, and powerful enough to break lug nuts free. The CT-350 is the same except 1/2" drive. I haven't seen it, but Snap-on now has a more powerful (I think 14.4V) version. Neil 96 M3

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Saved!! - from Ron Katona
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:52:03 -0400 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Saved!! From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com>: > You couldn't just specify to Bilstein what springs/rates you'll be running > and they could adjust accordingly? > > >Or a better deal would be > >Bilsteins Coilover PSS or PSS-9 kits, which are on sale till 7/15 for $899 > >and $1299, respectively. > > > > They don't have them made specifically for M3s though, do they? If you want a full custom setup for not much more, you can call Dr. O'Callaghan at ShockTek and Jay at Ground Control and get whatever you want. About $1700 will get you custom valved double-adjusting (single adjustment) monotube Bilsteins (bump stops trimmed to your ride height specifications) and a set of adjustable front and rear spring perches plus springs in any length and rate you want. If you're not sure, tell them what kind of driving you do and what kind of ride/performance you're after and they'll help you figure it all out. Depending on what Jay comes up with, and what strut hats/camber plates you choose, you may need some custom fabrication for front upper spring perches, but Jay or ShockTek can also work something up for you. I never understood what exactly matching your shock valving to your spring rates and car setup could do for ride and handling until I went this route. I'll never go for another off the shelf solution ever again, nor will I try to engineer it myself when there are experts out there willing to do it for a reasonable fee. -- Ron Katona '95 M3 BSP #06 - One sweet suspension... finally!

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#4. Re: Cordless impact wrench - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 18:57:26 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cordless impact wrench on 6/1/01 5:09 PM, Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> wrote: > No personal experience with it, but I have been toying with getting this > impact wrench: > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36175 > > I'm not 100% positive, but I think somebody on the list a long while back did > use one and was able to get it to remove lug bolts. Sorry Andrej, but this product is a total POS. I bought one, it broke on the first use, I threw it away. then i bought the Snap-on for 10 times the price, and am 100 times happier with it. Sometimes you do get what you pay for... Neil 96 M3

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Cordless impact wrench - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 17:04:25 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cordless impact wrench I bought one of the $40 12V impact wrenches from Wal-Mart. It looks same as the Harbor Freight one. When it works it does indeed remove lug bolts. Trouble is - sometimes it winds up a long time before it drops the hammer. And sometimes it doesn't sling the hammer at all! I'm disappointed with it. Joe Dyer |

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#6. H&R coilovers - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 16:59:56 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: H&R coilovers Multiple answers follow... > So, if your car is bouncy at the rear and you have H&R Sports, you might > want to find out the compression and rebound rates of the H&R COs. Don't > know about the front....29936VA vs 29910VA. BZZZt :) This used to be true. Now, the H&R coilovers use a special spring that mounts on their own adjustor. They're also stiffer than the H&R sport springs, by about 5%. Not much. That said, your point is probably correct... I suspect that one could call Bilstein and order the rear shocks from the coilovers for use with regular springs. Similarly, I suspect that you could do the same with the fronts, they're still inserts in pretty housings. This might be the ideal setup. I've said this a hundred times, but the H&R coilovers are the way to go. I hate the idea of using a fatty spacer, just because Bilstein couldn't design their coilovers properly. The H&Rs work great. Height: > What is the highest setting the H&R coilovers can be set at? Can they be > set to stock height? HAhaha... when I first installed the coilovers, they said that I'd get 1-3" of lowering up front and 0-2.5" lowering in the rear... me, being the conservative young man I am, thought, "Sheesh I want all the travel I can get!" and stuck the adjustors all the way up. I set the car down realized that I could get the jack out without any trouble, in fact it cleared with the little plastic handle still on it, something it never did before. I didn't think anything of it. Went for a drive, all was well, but I couldn't get the nagging feeling out of my mind that the car was a bit wallowy... got home and realized that i'd RAISED the car over 2" from stock! talk about head fitting into the fender wheelgap! I dumped it all the way down (well 3 turns front and rear from the bottom) and all was well, ended up a bit higher than the car was with the H&R 29910s and Konis, in the front and about 1/2" higher in the rear. Since, the car has settled quite a bit and is probably dropped 2" in the front and 1.5" in the rear from stock. It rides *much* better than it did with the 29910s and Konis, and feels much more controlled... lap times dropped pretty significantly, too... I couldn't crack 2:12s at buttonwillow with the 29910s, but was doing 2:09s last time I was there with the COs. (#13 CCW) And, I still have stock sway bars. No squeaka squeaka for me! > How much work would it be to put in an E36? I mean it should bolt right up > right? Especially from a new Mroadster to and old Z3 or so. Drive by wire throttle is gonna be tough... :) -kit 97 m3/4, still in the body shop... 01 CBR-600 F4i

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#7. Bilstein Saved!! - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 20:46:18 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Bilstein Saved!! Lowell, Congrats on finding your bump stop problem, and fixing your ride.... You said the stock dampers are gone after 30K miles...I'm at 28K, and am wondering, should I replace mine with Bilsteins now? I have no intention of lowering the car...I dont autox it, but it is supercharged, and I do like to push it on the road....I dont feel any strut problem at the moment, but as we know, damper degradation is insidious, kind of like power...You just dont perceive it as strong after a while...You get used to it...same with a degraded suspension.... Anyway, I cant decide if I should replace the stockers, or keep em til they really degrade. And if I should replace them, considering I wont be lowering or replacing the springs, do I still need to worry about the bump stops, or will the stock ride height allow enough travel? Thanks. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 30K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads; Steiger SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#8. RE: Cordless Impact Wrench - from Richard   Buchanan
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 18:35:25 -0700 From: "Richard Buchanan" <rbuchanan@quiq.com> Subject: RE: Cordless Impact Wrench Here's the one I bought - on the expensive side at around $400, but a LOT of torque for lug nuts and caliper brackets. Makita BTW200SH 1/2" Cordless Impact Wrench Kit 2-Speed, Variable Speed, Reversible Features Powerful 24V (1.7Ah) Nickel-Metal Hydride battery for maximum performance 2-speed (0-1,800 or 0-2,100 RPM) Deliver 1,774 in.lbs. of torque and 0-3,000 impacts per minute Variable speed trigger for total control operation Ergonomic rubber grip for comfort and control Universal 1/2" square drive fits standard impact sockets and accessories Die cast aluminum hammer case for long tool life Externally accessible brushes for easy replacement

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#9. ASC-ABS lights on - Any clues? - from Dan Miley
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 21:45:45 -0400 From: Dan Miley <dmiley@rcn.com> Subject: ASC-ABS lights on - Any clues? My new-to-me '98 M3/4 started showing the ABS and ASC lights last weekend. I'm not aware of anything that happened to cause that. I was driving under pretty rainy conditions when it started but it has continued with the car dried out. The brake fluid level is OK and the brakes seem to be working fine. I did a hard stop yesterday to check them. The ABS is definitely disabled. If I shut the car off, the lights reset but seem to come back on after some variable amount of time. Not sure if it's related to brake usage or not. Any ideas what might be causing this? The Bentley E36 book isn't too helpful. Thanks for any suggestions. --Dan '73 R75/5 '98 M3/4

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Saved!! - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 20:50:13 +0000 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilstein Saved!! Or you could get the Koni's from TC Kline, GC or Dinan and completely avoid the poorly engineered Bilstein struts. > > Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 20:46:18 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> > Subject: Bilstein Saved!! > > Lowell, > > Congrats on finding your bump stop problem, and fixing your ride.... > > You said the stock dampers are gone after 30K miles...I'm at 28K, and am > wondering, should I replace mine with Bilsteins now?

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