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#1. Re: [E36M3] New JC Shark Injector design - from NickG
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Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:44:22 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New JC Shark Injector design It's obvious that the casing is new. I haven't heard if there's new, revised programming with it though (vs. the original). Sounds like a question for Josh, Will Turner, or JimC. Nick > I was just at Turner Motor Sports and they have a picture of a new JC > Shark Injector. Anyone know about this? Is this a new/improved product or > is this just a new casing? > > Cheers, > Roman S.
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#2. Front Rotor sizes on E36 M3 - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:32:29 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Front Rotor sizes on E36 M3 Does anyone know the rotor sizes on an E36 M3. I would like to know the both the diameter and thickness for front and rear. Thanks Bora
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#3. Re: Eurasian = Good, Coilovers = Good - from Andy Radin
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Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:27:38 -0700 From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Eurasian = Good, Coilovers = Good http://www.unofficialbmw.com/email/HR_Coiloversthe_real_thing.txt Carl Buckland wrote in 1996: "The H&R coilover system for the E36 M3 is a very new design, which was specifically made for the car. In fact, it is one of the ONLY front struts that are specifically made for the E36 M3! Even the Bilstein and Koni struts are made from donor stock parts. The front struts are adjustable coilovers. The struts and the rear shocks are designed after the de Carbon (not the brandname, but the de Carbon principle). They are a high preassure, monotube gas shock. SAME as the Bilsteins that many of the BMW after market tuners prefer, but not made by Bilstein OR Koni. Made my H&R. In fact, H&R makes the tubes with threads that Koni is using for ITS adjustable coilovers (Koni makes its own shocks). H&R makes all their own struts and springs and shocks, in house, by Germans."
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#4. Bilstein Bump Stop Trimming - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 06:15:23 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Bilstein Bump Stop Trimming After all the discussion & confusion about trimming the bump stops on the front shocks a week or so ago, I made several phone calls to both Bilstein and H&R. I have a 95 M3 with Bilsteins and H&R 29910 springs that did not lower evenly when putting in the springs -- the front only went down about 10mm whereas the rear went down at least 20mm -- my biggest indication that the front might be on the bump stops. Once I got through playing voicemail tag with the right people, here's what I found out: 1) Bilstein says to cut 25 mm off their front bump stops. So I asked if I do this modification myself, does this void the warranty? They said no, only if you open up the actual shock portion, not just disassemble it. Just be careful not to strip the allen head in the bottom when disassembling, after taking off the 17mm nut on the bottom; a little heat helps with the allen head. So I ask why do they say to trim the bump stops? After much discussion and conferring with others in Bilstein the answer comes back "because even with stock springs & ride height the shocks are very close to the bump stops and also that H&R recommends it". Bilstein also cryptically noted that trimming the bump stops doesn't always seems to cure the uneven lowering based on customer reports. On a side note I asked him about revalving, and I was surprised it that the cost was only in the $50 range per shock. 2) On to H&R, after the voicemail tag.... Answer: trim the bump stops 20mm for the 29910 springs. I ask why didn't something come with my springs to say that. He says it should have been in the box with the springs, and that trimming should cure the uneven lowering effect that I have right now. Hope this helps clear things up, Jeremy Lucas Delaware, OH 1995 M3 without the bump stops untrimmed and riding high in the front....... soon to be rectified
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#5. re: seat covers - from Kevin M. Gregg
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 08:07:06 -0400 From: "Kevin M. Gregg" <kevingregg@home.com> Subject: re: seat covers >They have a website (www.coverdepot.com), but >unfortunately it's not working very well. What is the address of a web page with a pic of these seat covers installed in a M3? Thanks, Kevin Gregg kevingregg@home.com http://members.home.net/kevingregg 1997 BMW M3 Estoril Blue coupe http://members.home.net/kevingregg/m3/ Columbia, MD
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#6. Re: Door panel separation - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:59:48 -0500 From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: Re: Door panel separation I doubt its really early vs. late door panels, but just a function of time. I'd expect to see the newer cars start doing it sooner or later. I'd been considering the needle injection with some type of epoxy, but to be honest cutting the backing and coming in that way never crossed my mind....good idea. ChipM >Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:34:05 -0700 (PDT) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Door panel cover separation > >Also, isn't this a known issue with the early door panels? (or is this a >different area?) Don't the later M3s have door panels that don't get this? > >Chester > >--- Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> wrote: >> Mark, it must be something in the Houston air (usually called heat) that >> causes this. I replaced my rear passenger >> side panel for the same reason. The piece cost $93, but I just didn't see a >> good way to make the bubble go away so >> that I wouldn't know the repair was there. Door panel trim is probably 2-3 >> times the rear quarter price. Just another >> option you may want to consider. > > >===== > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 >a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > > >************************************************************** >Digest Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message. >************************************************************** > ---------End of Included Message----------
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#7. RE:M Contour spare wheel/tire FS - from Paul Kopecki
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:41:15 -0500 From: "Paul Kopecki" <Paul_Kopecki@transwestern.net> Subject: RE:M Contour spare wheel/tire FS BMW stock MContour wheel with new Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45 ZR-17 from my '99 M3. Never left the trunk. $225/OBO (wheel OR tire worth that much). In Chicago. PK 312.499.3657 Free new lower nose mask to first taker. -----Original Message----- From: E36M3 [mailto:e36m3@bmw-m.net] Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 10:53 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] E36M3 #1377 This digest contains the following messages: 1. OBC Code by: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> 2. Re: Eurasian = Good, Coilovers = Good by: Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> 3. FS: Seat Covers by: Frank, Mike <mikefrank@lucent.com> 4. Radio Display Kaput by: Frank, Mike <mikefrank@lucent.com> 5. New JC Shark Injector design by: Roman <roman@arteuro.com> 6. Re: Eurasian = Good, Coilovers = Good by: scott <scott@ditherdog.com> 7. Re: [E36M3] Door panel cover separation by: Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> 8. Door Panel Seperation... by: Brent Williams <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> 9. FS: 1993 325is Race Car by: Miki Haraguchi <mharaguchi@yahoo.com> 10. Re: [E36M3] Door panel cover separation by: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:44:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: OBC Code Luis wrote: "Lately my younger brother has gotten the confidence to just come to my house, get the car keys (my M3!) and do short errands. I dislike that. I plan on start using the OBC code thingy, which I have only used in the past 2 or 3 times, when having the car parked in unusual places. Apparently, I need to enter the code every time I get out of the car in order to work. Isn't there a way to just set the code and have it there always, so I don't have to re-enter it everytime I turn the car off? Please advise. Thanks." - you have to enter it every time;-( "BTW, if I set the code, and someone tries to steal the car without the car keys (ie. an experienced thief), can he hot-wire the car or not?" - The "CODE" feature is really to deter your kids or, in your case, your brother from starting the car. It is disabled when you unhook the battery. I especially like reading the owner's manual stating that once the doors are double locked you can't get into the trunk. But the latch for the folding seats are very obvious. Instant access to the battery. So, even if your brother knows to disconnect your battery, your anti-theft radio will ask for the code and you'll know he took the car. Unless of course the battery somehow died. Then you must resort to using the CLUB. Looks great in an M3. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:29:51 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Eurasian = Good, Coilovers = Good Does anyone know who makes the shocks/struts for the H&R coilovers? -rb >Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 17:12:32 -0400 >From: "scott " <scott@ditherdog.com> >Subject: Eurasian = Good, Coilovers = Good <snip> >And I just wanted to add to the on/off suspension discussion by saying that >after a lot of hard thought and test drives, I settled with the H&R >coilovers. I talked to Alan and Kit quite a bit about it, and they both >told me "It's what you'd eventually upgrade to anyway, so you might as well >get 'em." Though ultimately it was going for rides in their cars that >sealed the deal for me. My friend Scott F. and I did the installation in >about 6 hours total, not counting food breaks and rest periods. I think the >next time it could go even faster. Also, Scott was able to borrow an >electric impact gun from a friend of his, and it made a world of difference >- I can't believe I don't own one of these, it's definitely moved up on the >purchase list. I initially set them on the lowest setting, which turns out >to be "Cut-Coil-Ghetto-Civic-Slammed." Obviously a little adjustment is in >order, though I'm getting thumbs-up from the local Street Racer types... ;P _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:39:46 -0500 From: "Frank, Mike" <mikefrank@lucent.com> Subject: FS: Seat Covers Now that the discount limit has been met this shouldn't mess anything up. For Sale: 1 set of dark gray seat covers w/embroidered M colors for manual sport seats (Vaders) from Supreme Seat Covers. I originally wanted to order 2 driver's side covers, but received 2 sets instead - one light gray and one dark gray. I have never used the dark gray pair. They've been sitting here in plastic. They fit great and I really like them, I just don't need 2 sets. $90 + S/H. Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3 -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:44:44 -0500 From: "Frank, Mike" <mikefrank@lucent.com> Subject: Radio Display Kaput On my way to work I glanced at the radio and noticed that the display was no longer working - stock 97 head unit. Pressed a bunch of buttons, tapped it a few times, and turned the ignition on and off a few times but still nothing. Anyone have this problem and/or know how to fix it. Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3 -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 18:16:04 -0700 From: Roman <roman@arteuro.com> Subject: New JC Shark Injector design I was just at Turner Motor Sports and they have a picture of a new JC Shark Injector. Anyone know about this? Is this a new/improved product or is this just a new casing? Cheers, Roman S. -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:47:27 -0400 From: "scott " <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: Re: Eurasian = Good, Coilovers = Good Hi Ron, I'm pretty sure that all corners are custom-valed Bilsteins, as per H&R's specs. ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:29:51 >Does anyone know who makes the shocks/struts for the H&R coilovers? > >-rb > -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:44:42 -0500 From: Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Door panel cover separation Mark, it must be something in the Houston air (usually called heat) that causes this. I replaced my rear passenger side panel for the same reason. The piece cost $93, but I just didn't see a good way to make the bubble go away so that I wouldn't know the repair was there. Door panel trim is probably 2-3 times the rear quarter price. Just another option you may want to consider. If you pull the panel off you should be able to slit the cardboard structure and inject glue/vent air from the back side, leaving the vinyl intact. Bob Dorchester 95 M3 Houston > Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 12:03:31 -0700 (PDT) > From: Mark Siismets <msiismets@yahoo.com> > Subject: Door panel cover separation > > The covering on my driver's side door panel has begun > to separate from the panel. I currently have a rather > big "bubble" where I normally rest my left elbow. > > I was thinking of making a small slit in the covering > and then injecting some epoxy glue (or other adhesive) > and then pushing the cover back into place onto the > panel sub-structure. > > Has anyone been successful at repairing such a > separation on the door panels? If so, I'd be grateful > to read how the repairs were made. > > Thanks, > Mark > '95 M3 -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:12:33 -0400 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: Door Panel Seperation... I wouldn't cut the leather. Worst case scenario: Go to the drug store and get some hypodermic needles. Then inject the adhesive through the leather. Or... Cut the panel from the other side and insert the glue from behind. I have the same problem. I have the needles, but haven't decided on the glue yet. Go figure. Brent -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:22:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Miki Haraguchi <mharaguchi@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 1993 325is Race Car Posting for former list member Michael Lord... Miki _________________ Hey Sports fans! I am posting this to the list through Miki Haraguchi. I am selling my much loved, and very competitive E36 325is race car. I am asking $25,000.00/OBO. For more information go to http://www.unofficialbmw.com/ML.html or contact me at michaellord@qwest.net /(206) 527-9002. Cheers! Michael Lord __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:34:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Door panel cover separation Also, isn't this a known issue with the early door panels? (or is this a different area?) Don't the later M3s have door panels that don't get this? Chester --- Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> wrote: > Mark, it must be something in the Houston air (usually called heat) that > causes this. I replaced my rear passenger > side panel for the same reason. The piece cost $93, but I just didn't see a > good way to make the bubble go away so > that I wouldn't know the repair was there. Door panel trim is probably 2-3 > times the rear quarter price. Just another > option you may want to consider. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ************************************************************** Digest Commands UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. **************************************************************
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Door panel separation - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:30:10 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Door panel separation Actually BMW had a problem with the early E36 3 series door panels and some other vinyl parts whereby shrinkage "possibly" due to variations in temperature and humidity caused the vinyl trim to pull loose from its backing. This was covered under warranty BTW. This was supposedly corrected around 9/92. Cheers, Jim E. Chip Mitchell wrote: > Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:59:48 -0500 > From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> > Subject: Re: Door panel separation > > I doubt its really early vs. late door panels, but just a function of > time. I'd expect to see the newer cars start doing it sooner or later. > > I'd been considering the needle injection with some type of epoxy, but > to be honest cutting the backing and coming in that way never crossed my > mind....good idea. > > ChipM > > >Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:34:05 -0700 (PDT) > >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Door panel cover separation > > > >Also, isn't this a known issue with the early door panels? (or is this > a > >different area?) Don't the later M3s have door panels that don't get > this? > > > >Chester > > > >--- Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> wrote: > >> Mark, it must be something in the Houston air (usually called heat) > that > >> causes this. I replaced my rear passenger > >> side panel for the same reason. The piece cost $93, but I just didn't > see a > >> good way to make the bubble go away so > >> that I wouldn't know the repair was there. Door panel trim is > probably 2-3 > >> times the rear quarter price. Just another > >> option you may want to consider. > > > > > >===== > > > > > >__________________________________________________ > >Do You Yahoo!? > >Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 > >a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > > > > > > >************************************************************** > >Digest Commands > >UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the > digest. > >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > >To issue a command/request to the server: > >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > >subject of the message. > >************************************************************** > > > ---------End of Included Message---------- > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#9. AA Exhaust Install - from Jimenez, Ariel
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:47:19 -0500 From: "Jimenez, Ariel" <ariel@megapathdsl.net> Subject: AA Exhaust Install Hello group- I just received my AA exhaust today and am anxious to install it. The question I have is whether to do it myself or take it to a shop. For those of you that have done it, is it a difficult install? Any gotchas or advise you could give me before I get started? TIA Ariel Jimenez 99 Titanium Silver M3/2
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#10. What Type of Battery for 95 M3 Master Key? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:51:21 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: What Type of Battery for 95 M3 Master Key? Does anyone happen to know the type of battery that powers the light in the master key (square head) for a 1995 M3? Mine does not work and the battery was missing as well. Thanks, Geof