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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: flywheel rattle - from Paul England
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:46:45 -0400 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: flywheel rattle You said it yourself, right there. Going up a hill you'd notice? Going on a flat road is exactly the same work. The hill just magnifies the effect to a more noticeable point. And it isn't just coasting. The effect is still there, just that being on the gas makes the effect less noticeable. -Paul England From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: flywheel rattle > But I would think that the stored up energy is only good for something like > dumping the clutch. Sure, it'll give you extra zip off the line, but....once > everything is directly coupled (clutch engaged all the way with no slip) I > would think that the extra mass of the heavier flywheel would just get in the > way for acceleration. Sure, if you want to coast up a hill, the LTW flywheel > equipped car will slow down more, but if you have your foot on the gas, you > would be good to go.
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#2. Suspension set-up ALSO - from Rustysells@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:58:34 EDT From: Rustysells@aol.com Subject: Suspension set-up ALSO After reading Scott King's "dilemma", I felt compelled to share my concerns for my own car. I've already ordered the KMAC (front) adjustable camber plates. They're absolutely necessary for ANY adjustment to the front camber on these cars (from what I understand, anyways). We won't know if the rear camber plates (bushing replacements) will be necessary until we get the car up on the alignment machine. (By the way, if anyone has the alignment specs for a 97 E36 M3 Sedan, I'd appreciate any input. It seems if you talk to 5 different alignment shops around here, you get 5 different sets of specs.) Also, I want lower the car with Turner Motorsport's (BMP equivalent) H&R / Bilstein (sport) combination. They (Turner) quote a 0.75" reduction in ride height (as compared to BMP's quote of a 1.5" rear and 1.0" front drop). So which is correct? Also, aren't there different alignment specs for a lowered M3? Thanks all for your help! Rusty
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#3. RE: [E36M3] replacing spring pads - from Mel Silva
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:07:24 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <mel.silva@pdq.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] replacing spring pads Jeff, First Answer: Yes, both rear tires need to be off the ground at the same time. You can't get the tension out of the spring because you are fighting with the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar, whatever you want to call it). If you still can't get the tension off (you should, but weirder things have happened) you can try disconnecting the shock from its lower mounting point. This should allow more movement of the trailing arm. As Always, be very aware that you are dealing with machinery that can injure or kill you. I hope you are using a floor jack and not the BMW service jack, plus a good pair of jack stands for this job. Assuming you are, once the rear of the car is on jack stands, use the floor jack to support the lower control arms if you need to disconnect the shocks (remember that both trailing arms are connected by the sway bar and will move together). Second Answer: I dunno, depends on how thick your spring pads are. You may want to have the camber and toe checked on the rear after your "adjustment". It would suck to burn up a pair of tires at T-Hill due to poor alignment. ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS! D'oh! Good luck, Mel -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Stowe [mailto:jrstowe@pacbell.net] Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 12:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] replacing spring pads Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:17:00 -0700 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: replacing spring pads After reading Jim Powell's write up on replacing his spring pads and following a couple of threads on this list regarding spring replacement, it seemed like replacing my spring pads was a simple enough process that even a bozo like me could handle it. Wrong! So I try following all the steps and I can't get any tension off the spring pad at all. I am running the H&R sport springs which are a little shorter than stock which should make this even easier, right? I even tried using a spring compressor but couldn't get the spring compressed enough to take any of the force off the spring pad. Granted it was not the appropriate compressor for a BMW. It was way too big for this application. So what am I doing wrong? I've reviewed Jim's write up and the previous threads and it seems like the one thing I may have been doing wrong is I only jacked up one side of the car at a time. Do both rear wheels need to be off the ground at the same time? Second Question, I am replacing the rear pads primarily for cosmetic reasons. The H&Rs drop the rear end too far IMO and car loses all its rake. Will the thicker spring pads have any effect on the suspension geometry and handling? It doesn't seem like it would have any effect but some confirmation would be comforting as I am heading to Thunderhill next week. As always, I greatly appreciate any help or comments. jeff 98 M3/4 - with a saggy butt ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:14:51 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up Seth, So you're saying not to use camber plates on any street car, even if it sees track time (schools) and has coilovers? Just curious. What kind of camber change would be average with the addition of coilovers only, and no camber plates? As a street/school car, I'd think around -2.0 (f) and around -1.5 (r) would be perfect, no? Anyone know if this is possible with a change to c/o only and no camber plates, shims or crash bolts? Thanks! Jonathan L. >From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> > > >Don't put the camber plates on a street car. The reason being is that >the only ones available that are good are from TC Kline, Ground Control, >and Turner. These plates do not have bushings in them and are meant for >race only applications. .... Let me know >if you have anymore questions on these. > >Seth Thomas >www.m3ltw.com <http://www.m3ltw.com> > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Suspension set-up ALSO - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:17:24 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension set-up ALSO Sounds like both are correct. You probably got a quote on the OE Sport from Turner and the "regular" Sport from BMP. BMP would also have the OE Sports. I believe the only difference between OE Sport and Sport is that there's very minor ride height changes with the OE. Spring rates themselves are the same. Jonathan L. >From: Rustysells@aol.com > >Also, I want lower the car with Turner Motorsport's (BMP equivalent) H&R / >Bilstein (sport) combination. They (Turner) quote a 0.75" reduction in ride >height (as compared to BMP's quote of a 1.5" rear and 1.0" front drop). So >which is correct? > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Suspension set-up ALSO - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 15:25:59 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension set-up ALSO ----- Original Message ----- From: <Rustysells@aol.com> > Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:58:34 EDT > From: Rustysells@aol.com > Subject: Suspension set-up ALSO > We won't know if the rear camber plates > (bushing replacements) will be necessary until we get the car up on the > alignment machine. (By the way, if anyone has the alignment specs for a 97 > E36 M3 Sedan, I'd appreciate any input. It seems if you talk to 5 different > alignment shops around here, you get 5 different sets of specs.) I dont think you will need any type of rear bushings. I think you can get close to -2 degrees which is plenty in the rear. most common is setup with the racers is a bit of toe out in the front, little bit of toe in on the rear. -3 camber in front, -1.5 to -1.8 in rear. I personally run 0 toe in front, -3.1 front camber, I think a 16th of toe in on the rear and -1.9 camber. car has group N bilstien, h&R race in front, some kind of euro bmw race spring in the rear. rear is very stiff. but with alignment, only use it to get even tire wear, and then to balance the car to your driving style. It also should be done when you are at 8/10ths of the fastest car at the track. Not knowing what level you are at, messing with all that stuff can really make a car harder to drive. I starting messing with the settings to get the car to rotate on turn in. Now it is quite a handful on the track, but it is faster to a degree. BTW, I didnt change anything on my car until I started actually racing it in Clubracing, bone stock it was fast enough at schools that I never worried about needing to go faster. I do recomend changing camber just to save the tires instead of cheweing up the edges. woohooo on the downward spiral into the bottomless pit of "making it faster" Mike
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#7. Re: Rear seat disassemble - from S Lafredo
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:32:06 -0700 (PDT) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Rear seat disassemble I found the space between my Dinan <insert your favor other manufacture here) rear strut tower bar and the seat back provides just enough space to hold my computer bag, briefcase, etc. upright. --- "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: > Good question -- I was faced with this problem (I wanted to mount a > bracket to hold my laptop on the backside of the rear fold-down > passenger seat) and it certainly wasn't immediately obvious how to > take the seat apart. I didn't pursue disassembly further ... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#8. [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:47:16 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses During my last inspection 1, I noticed that the power steering has a leak. Tech said it was the hoses, and that this was very common (don't recall many posts here, however). Nothing to rush, he said. So I called today to see how much that would run. Sounds like it's just 2 hoses that need to be replaced, yet I was told $365!! That really sound ridiculous to me. It's still a very slow leak (no puddles under the car), so I'm not too worried about it... yet. I would like to get it taken care of before it becomes something bigger though. How hard would this be for a do-it-yourself job, or does anyone have any other pricing experience on this? Don't have much yet in the way of tools, etc., but for $365, I'd make the investment. Thanks for any info/help. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 16:06:40 -0400 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up Jonathan, What I am saying is not to use them but I don't recommend it. The reason being is that they do make the ride a lot stiffer, make a lot of noise, and you run the risk of damaging your shock towers with them. Camber plates are nice for a car that does see track time as you can easily dial in the amount of camber that you want. My car has -2.4 all the way around and it needs more in the front. So next time I align it and corner balance it we are going to add another -.5 degree. But back to the point at hand. I think you are right in that a good combo would be -2.0 (f) and -1.5 or -2.0 (r). The rear is the easy adjustment with the rear lower control arms. The front is the one that is the problem. The only way I know is with shims, reversing the upper strut mounts, or crash bolts. But that is all I know of Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com -----Original Message----- From: twisty M3 [mailto:twistym3@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 3:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:14:51 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up Seth, So you're saying not to use camber plates on any street car, even if it sees track time (schools) and has coilovers? Just curious. What kind of camber change would be average with the addition of coilovers only, and no camber plates? As a street/school car, I'd think around -2.0 (f) and around -1.5 (r) would be perfect, no? Anyone know if this is possible with a change to c/o only and no camber plates, shims or crash bolts? Thanks! Jonathan L. >From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> > > >Don't put the camber plates on a street car. The reason being is that >the only ones available that are good are from TC Kline, Ground Control, >and Turner. These plates do not have bushings in them and are meant for >race only applications. .... Let me know >if you have anymore questions on these. > >Seth Thomas >www.m3ltw.com <http://www.m3ltw.com> > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:59:34 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jbassett@geysernetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses Which hoses? There are a couple that come out of the reservoir, and the leaking there is generally due to the clamps (BTDT). And those hoses aren't anything special. But there are some that go to the cooler & steering rack that have special high-pressure fittings and are pretty expensive (it was one of these that let loose on my car at Buttonwillow earlier this year - ~$90 hose IIRC). Sp two of these ($180) plus labor could be ~$360. My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 > -----Original Message----- > From: twisty M3 [mailto:twistym3@hotmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 12:55 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses > > > Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:47:16 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses > > During my last inspection 1, I noticed that the power > steering has a leak. > Tech said it was the hoses, and that this was very common > (don't recall many > posts here, however). Nothing to rush, he said. So I called > today to see > how much that would run. Sounds like it's just 2 hoses that > need to be > replaced, yet I was told $365!! That really sound ridiculous > to me. It's > still a very slow leak (no puddles under the car), so I'm not > too worried > about it... yet. I would like to get it taken care of before > it becomes > something bigger though. > > How hard would this be for a do-it-yourself job, or does > anyone have any > other pricing experience on this? Don't have much yet in > the way of tools, > etc., but for $365, I'd make the investment. > > Thanks for any info/help. > > Jonathan L. > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the > mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >