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#1. RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 13:12:30 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up >From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> > >they do make the ride a lot stiffer, make a lot of noise, and >you run the risk of damaging your shock towers with them. That's kind of what I suspected. Thanks. >The only way I know is with shims, >reversing the upper strut mounts, or crash bolts. But that is all I >know >of > So is there generally no change in camber in the front when the suspension is lowered with coilovers? If that's the case, I guess my best bet (if I go that route) would be to stick with shims. I think with coilovers, there'd be slightly more clearance as opposed to stock struts, therefore I could probably get some 8.5" wheels up front, which I can't do now. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 13:12:32 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up >From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> > >they do make the ride a lot stiffer, make a lot of noise, and >you run the risk of damaging your shock towers with them. That's kind of what I suspected. Thanks. >The only way I know is with shims, >reversing the upper strut mounts, or crash bolts. But that is all I >know >of > So is there generally no change in camber in the front when the suspension is lowered with coilovers? If that's the case, I guess my best bet (if I go that route) would be to stick with shims. I think with coilovers, there'd be slightly more clearance as opposed to stock struts, therefore I could probably get some 8.5" wheels up front, which I can't do now. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#3. k mac camber plates - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 13:27:22 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: k mac camber plates Hi all, I have k-mac camber plates (thanks Jim O!) and I run -2.6 degrees of negative camber in the front on the street... they're great. No noises, slipping or other nasty side effects of camber plates. I'm happy with them. I run about -1.5 in the rear and the car is fairly neutral. -kit
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 16:41:04 -0400 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up I would have to say that the camber is changed a little bit when you lower it with coilovers but I would say probably not to the degree that you are looking for. I don't know for sure but I did have a M3 with the H&R race springs and it did not have -2.0 degrees in the front. It was between -1.25 and -1.5 if I remember correctly. But I recommend coilovers so you can run the 8.5" wheel up front as that makes a huge difference in how the car responds. Plus you can then corner balance your car. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com -----Original Message----- From: twisty M3 [mailto:twistym3@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 4:13 PM To: porsche993@mindspring.com; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up >From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> > >they do make the ride a lot stiffer, make a lot of noise, and >you run the risk of damaging your shock towers with them. That's kind of what I suspected. Thanks. >The only way I know is with shims, >reversing the upper strut mounts, or crash bolts. But that is all I >know >of > So is there generally no change in camber in the front when the suspension is lowered with coilovers? If that's the case, I guess my best bet (if I go that route) would be to stick with shims. I think with coilovers, there'd be slightly more clearance as opposed to stock struts, therefore I could probably get some 8.5" wheels up front, which I can't do now. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#5. Front pads for Group C CCA school? - from Dan Miley
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 16:52:58 -0400 From: Dan Miley <dmiley@rcn.com> Subject: Front pads for Group C CCA school? With apologies in case this thread made the rounds before I got here, I'm looking for some advice on brake pads for CCA driving schools. I have a stock '98 M3/4 and will add an x-brace and ATE Super Blue fluid. The stock pads and rotors look to have plenty of life. I expect to do 1-2 CCA driving schools at NHIS and/or Lime Rock this year. NHIS is supposed to be tough on brakes. I have run at LRP, but not NHIS.. I'll likely be in the C run group, one up from Novice. I realize that the biggest performance limiting factor will be strapped into the driver's seat, so I plan to upgrade that, not the car, for some time. Should I just stick with the stock pads for now? Or should I get dual purpose pads that can be used on the street and for moderate track use? Porterfield R4S? PF90 or 97? Thanks. --Dan
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Front pads for Group C CCA school? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:10:02 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jbassett@geysernetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front pads for Group C CCA school? > With apologies in case this thread made the rounds before I got here, It has :-), but it's a pretty easy one. > I'm looking for some advice on brake pads for CCA driving schools. > I have a stock '98 M3/4 and will add an x-brace and ATE Super Blue > fluid. The stock pads and rotors look to have plenty of > life. I expect to do > 1-2 CCA driving schools at NHIS and/or Lime Rock this year. NHIS is > supposed to be tough on brakes. I have run at LRP, but not NHIS.. > > I'll likely be in the C run group, one up from Novice. Although I'm not familiar with those tracks, for a C group student, the stock pads should be fine. Having enough pad left will be the thing to look at. And fresh fluid (which you mentioned). Other than that, have fun! :-) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up - from Drew Bamford
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:18:14 From: "Drew Bamford" <drewbam@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up FWIW, the Turner/KMAC plates are NOT solid bearings, they have urethane bushings. I have been told by many happy owners that they are just fine on a street/track car. Also, I have heard differing reports as to how much the solid plates from TC Kline and Ground Control affect ride harshness, and whether they are likely to damage the shock towers on a street-driven car. Further, TC Kline claims, on their web site, that their plates will, indeed, fit with stock stuts: "Our camber/caster plate works equally well with stock or aftermarket struts and coilover conversions. Using a spring compressor, they can be easily installed on virtually all OEM struts and aftermarket shock inserts built to OEM mounting specs." Finally, the nice thing about the various plates, versus bolts, shims, etc. is that they enable caster adjustment, as well. This is particularly important for me, as the caster on my car, apres front-end wreck, is just at the edge of the spec. I, too, am weighing the advantages of the various camber/caster plates, in anticipation of installing some with a Dinan koni suspension. So far, I'm leaning toward the KMACS, as a good street/track compromise. Note that I have no first-hand experience with any of these plates, so somone please correct me if the info I have garnered off the manufacturers' web sites is incorrect. drew | 98M3 Limo, all stock except X-brace and AA exhaust, so far... >Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 16:06:40 -0400 >From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension set up > >Jonathan, > >What I am saying is not to use them but I don't recommend it. The reason >being is that they do make the ride a lot stiffer, make a lot of noise, >and >you run the risk of damaging your shock towers with them. Camber plates >are >nice for a car that does see track time as you can easily dial in the >amount >of camber that you want. My car has -2.4 all the way around and it needs >more in the front. So next time I align it and corner balance it we are >going to add another -.5 degree. But back to the point at hand. I think >you are right in that a good combo would be -2.0 (f) and -1.5 or -2.0 (r). >The rear is the easy adjustment with the rear lower control arms. The >front >is the one that is the problem. The only way I know is with shims, >reversing the upper strut mounts, or crash bolts. But that is all I know >of > >Seth Thomas >www.m3ltw.com > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#8. Re: fluid - from Ron Katona
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 17:27:20 -0400 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: fluid Kit Wetzler wrote: > hahah, you've got to be kidding! Guys, we're talking about a marginally > heavier gear oil. If it made a detectable different in power, I'd be real > surprised. :) Plus a heavier oil will give more protection to your > synchros, etc. It has to rob some power. The question was whether the performace gained by the LTW flywheel is offset by the thicker fluid. Back to back acceleration testa and dyno runs are the only answer. -- Ron Katona
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses - from Robert Chay
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:31:19 -0700 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses Jonathan, That sounds about right. I had mine done at the dealer due to time restraints. The leak is from the cheezy clamps they used but now they have better clamps. You still need to change the hoses (one's a hard line hose) or it'll leak again even with the newer heavy duty clamps. If you decide to tackle this yourself, give me a call. I'll help ya. I have a ton of tools and a bentley manual :) -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 12:54 PM Subject: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses > Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:47:16 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Power Steering Hoses > > During my last inspection 1, I noticed that the power steering has a leak. > Tech said it was the hoses, and that this was very common (don't recall many > posts here, however). Nothing to rush, he said. So I called today to see > how much that would run. Sounds like it's just 2 hoses that need to be > replaced, yet I was told $365!! That really sound ridiculous to me. It's > still a very slow leak (no puddles under the car), so I'm not too worried > about it... yet. I would like to get it taken care of before it becomes > something bigger though. > > How hard would this be for a do-it-yourself job, or does anyone have any > other pricing experience on this? Don't have much yet in the way of tools, > etc., but for $365, I'd make the investment. > > Thanks for any info/help. > > Jonathan L. > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#10. Looking for phone # to BMW Headquarters in NJ - from DASGUNZZ@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 17:40:25 EDT From: DASGUNZZ@aol.com Subject: Looking for phone # to BMW Headquarters in NJ I think it's in Englewood NJ, right across the street from the Mercedes headquarters. I have a friend I am trying to contact there but I am unable to get the # from any BMW dealerships. Thanks in advance, Thomas Koch '99 M3