E36M3 #1438

Sunday, July 01, 2001 06:55:01

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: M3 Totalled at Summit - from David Hogg
#2. Rear "grinding," CV joints - from Chip Mitchell
#3. BMW Nightmare! - from Luis Veras
#4. Kumho Pressures - from DiVincenti, A.J.
#5. Re: [E36M3] Kumho Tire Pressures - from Chris Teague
#6. multi question about trans. upgrades - from Lee Conte
#7. Kuhmo ECSTA 712 First Impressions - from Mel Silva
#8. Re: [E36M3] Kuhmo ECSTA 712 First Impressions - from Chester Wong
#9. r134a recharge - from Kit Wetzler
#10. Speaking of autocrosses... An overdue thanks - from Steven Hazard

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#1. Re: M3 Totalled at Summit - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 09:32:11 -0700 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Re: M3 Totalled at Summit Ya know, through all this discussion, something occurred to me. First, let me remind you that I'm also a member of the "totalled at Summit" club. It was also a nasty, airborne rollover with an instructor in a pure street '98 M3/4. We managed to crawl out the back window (it was gone and we were upside down), even though the roof was very squished. Turn 4, not turn 3. So much for background. Our cars are engineered by some of the best in the world, and the safety systems in them are remarkable. Once you put a rollbar in the car, it becomes less safe to drive on the street (increased chance of head injury) and the back seat becomes pure luggage space due to the extreme risk of head injury to back seat passengers. If you retain the stock seatbelts in an M3 with no bar/cage, you've got a mighty good system for surviving many different types of crashes (except for equipment failure, they are not called "accidents"). Two things you should NOT do: 1) Install racing harnesses in an M3 without a bar/cage. You eliminate part of the safety system that allows your body to slide out of the way in the event of a roof collapse, and replace it with one that's designed to work quite well with better roof reinforcement. 2) Install a bar/cage in a car that gets a lot of street time and little track time. Tube steel, even when padded, beside/behind an unhelmeted head, reduces crash survivability on the street. It increases safety only on the track, where a helmet is required. For an E36 M3, I'd leave it completely alone if it were a street car that saw the track a few times a year. I know, your legs and butt will be sore from bracing against the cornering forces. So what? It will protect you really well if you get in over your head (which is easy to do in an E36 M3). When you're in the "A" group or equivalent and you're feeling as if you simply must explore the limits (yes, we know who we are ;^ 0), you owe it to yourself, your spouse and your kids to do whatever you can to get a dedicated track car with cage, harnesses, etc. A "safety car", if you will. An E30 325 or even an E36 ti bobtail will do nicely for a relatively modest price. The old 325 will still outrun a stock E36 M3 if properly set up, yet still be streetable enough to drive to and from the track. Used race cars are cheap as BMW's go. And always, always wear a quality neck collar - it won't save your neck in a serious, crushing wreck, but it will help your skinny, little neck (they all are) hold up without injury under many other crash conditions. My neck wasn't even stiff after the high drama. At all. They work! Think about it. Dave Hogg M3/4 daily driver BMW used race car "Safety Car" on the track

Reply to: David Hogg

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#2. Rear "grinding," CV joints - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 11:42:50 -0500 From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: Rear "grinding," CV joints My sister is complaining about a "grinding" in the rear of her E36 318. Happens in slow, sharp turns to the right, never to the left. I'm just trying to get an idea of what's most likely wrong before we have it checked. My best guess (considering that I'm fairly uneducated on the subject) is that on or both CV joints have gone bad. My (distant) next guess is the wheel bearing. Is there any way to tell which CV joint is causing the problem? Thanks for the help. ChipM P.S. - Ya, I know I should keep my nose out of it and let the mechanic do his job, but thats just no fun. You guys know how that is...

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#3. BMW Nightmare! - from Luis Veras
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 11:52:12 -0400 From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> Subject: BMW Nightmare! This is really funny. Specially #7 and #12 http://www.geocities.com/jimmy540i/bmwnightmare.htm Cheers :)

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#4. Kumho Pressures - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 12:16:15 -0500 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Kumho Pressures To answer Peter's question about autox pressures for Kumhos, I like 42 front and 40 rear. It's a good place to start. Right Steve ;-) Be sure to bleed them back down once things start heating up. BTW, what pressures do you guys use for the track with Kumhos? AJ

Reply to: DiVincenti, A.J.

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Kumho Tire Pressures - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 12:33:29 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho Tire Pressures Peter, For autox usage, Kumho says around 40psi +/- 2 psi give the best traction. For my stock M3, which does not have enough camber, and leans too much, I have to run 46-48psi in front, and 36 or so psi in back. If I run lower in front, the outside edge gets feathered and worn to the cord real fast. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 10:34 PM Subject: [E36M3] Kumho Tire Pressures > Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 22:25:51 -0700 > From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> > Subject: Kumho Tire Pressures > > Anyone have a good starting pressure for Kumho's? These are being used for > auto-x only, so warm temps would be great to know. I'm running 255/40-17's, > but the numbers for 225's shouldn't be too far off. > > I just finished off my Hoosier's and was hoping I could get some advice... > > Thanks. > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#6. multi question about trans. upgrades - from Lee Conte
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 13:09:27 -0700 From: "Lee Conte" <leeconte@home.com> Subject: multi question about trans. upgrades Hi list - I will need to replace the transmission in my stock 98 M3 coupe sometime in the next year or so, and I'm starting to think about replacing it with some improved mods (turning lemons into lemonade, and all that). My current idea of what I want to wind up with is - 6-speed - 3.73 diff - lightweight flywheel - short shifter - better transmission brace Not much of a change, right? ;) Okay, so here are the questions: - is there anything in the combination which doesn't make sense together such as -- 6-sp + short shifter =? prone to misshifting -- 6-sp + flywheel =? problems? -- diff ratio ... too low? - what would make sense to do all at one time vs. what can be done later. I wouldn't want to have one thing done and then need to pull it all apart again for the next thing if I can plan this out right beforehand - what might this might wind up costing altogether? I've seen a used 6-sp for $3500, so I guess that's a baseline for that piece of it. TIA! ------------------------------ Lee Conte San Diego, California

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#7. Kuhmo ECSTA 712 First Impressions - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 22:19:05 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <mel.silva@pdq.net> Subject: Kuhmo ECSTA 712 First Impressions Reporting because some of you had asked, sorry for the noise for those who don't care. I got a set of Kuhmo ECSTA Supra 712's mounted today in the stock staggered sized of the '97 M3. Initial impressions are good for a street tire. Very quiet road tire on both paved and concrete surfaces. Excellent straight-line grip for acceleration and braking. At least as good as the Michelin MXX3's. For lateral grip there is a noticeable difference between the well worn MXX3's I had the new Kuhmo tires. The Kuhmo's are much more "vocal" giving you plenty of audible signal before the lose grip. I didn't notice that with the MXX3's, they seemed to be quiet all the way to the edge of their envelope. The Kuhmo's do have less lateral grip than the MXX3's but not by much. However, I also believe that the MXX3's had less straight-line grip than the Kuhmo's do. These are my impression after spending a couple of hours and about 50 miles on the Kuhmo's. If you want more data later be sure to let me know, I'll gladly post my observations after a few hundred miles. Mel

Reply to: Mel Silva

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Kuhmo ECSTA 712 First Impressions - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 20:40:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kuhmo ECSTA 712 First Impressions Just wondering, but don't tires not really get into their own until a few hundred miles? Until then, they are a bit greasy. Also, the tire lube probably didn't even dry yet! :) Give it some time and get back to us :) Chester --- Mel Silva <mel.silva@pdq.net> wrote: > I got a set of Kuhmo ECSTA Supra 712's mounted today in the stock staggered > sized of the '97 M3. Initial impressions are good for a street tire. Very > quiet road tire on both paved and concrete surfaces. Excellent > straight-line grip for acceleration and braking. At least as good as the > Michelin MXX3's. For lateral grip there is a noticeable difference between > the well worn MXX3's I had the new Kuhmo tires. The Kuhmo's are much more > "vocal" giving you plenty of audible signal before the lose grip. I didn't > notice that with the MXX3's, they seemed to be quiet all the way to the edge > of their envelope. The Kuhmo's do have less lateral grip than the MXX3's > but not by much. However, I also believe that the MXX3's had less > straight-line grip than the Kuhmo's do. > > These are my impression after spending a couple of hours and about 50 miles > on the Kuhmo's. If you want more data later be sure to let me know, I'll > gladly post my observations after a few hundred miles. > > Mel > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Chester Wong

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#9. r134a recharge - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 02:01:24 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: r134a recharge well... R134a is better than R12 for one simple reason... today, I decided that my AC sucked, and I wanted to do something about it. I went to Pep Boys and spent $30 on a recharge kit... not quite blowing frost out like GM's AC, but it's muuuuuch colder. In fact, I can stop the car and sit at a light, without checking to see if the AC is working. It's real easy, you just hook up a pressure gauge on a slip fitting to the low pressure side, take a reading and add the refrigerant/oil mixture as needed. The kit I bought was cheesy, but it worked fine. Be sure to read the directions on the CAN... I oopsed and didn't realize that you needed to hold it upside down, but it turned out alright anyway. :) -kit, going to church tomorrow and NOT sweating :) 97 m3/4 w/ colder AC

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#10. Speaking of autocrosses... An overdue thanks - from Steven Hazard
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Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 07:44:28 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@mediaone.net> Subject: Speaking of autocrosses... An overdue thanks Joe I've got some bad news for you :-) In the world of Solo II/Autocrossing..... The M3 is no longer competitive at a National level in AS (A Stock) Both the Boxster, and the S2000 are faster in the hands of Nationally ranked drivers. In fact I saw three of the top drivers in the country go at it a couple of weeks ago in AS. These are results from the National Tour event at Ayer,MA>>> A Stock Drivers: 2 1T 43 Mike Solomon 01 Honda S2000 Silver Kumho NEng 58.594 57.925 57.498 105.404 Easton, CT Novaworks Racing NEDIV 48.972 50.375(1) 47.906 2T 77 Pat Salerno 99 Porsche Boxster Bl Kumho NY 58.284 57.752 57.399 106.183 Paubury, CT Lorenco Ind NEDIV 51.813 52.302(1) 48.784 (0.779) 3 12 Nick Leverone 95 BMW M3 Silver Kumho NEng 58.561 58.693 58.192 107.447 Worcester, MA Flatout Motorsports NEDIV 51.038 49.963 49.255 (1.264) The M3 was about 1 second slower on a 60 second course. And I can attest to the drivers skills :-) He's been teaching me for years now ...... Now on a Race track? Who knows :-) Steve PS- my brother is graduating from school and he picked up his yellow S2000 yesterday. I hate the digital dash, but that is one excellent car... lots of fun and a big time headturner. Out of curiousity, do I still have bragging rights :-) ? What I mean is, other than having a back seat ;-), trunk, ASC (winters), and other assorted goodies, on a track/equal drivers, who has the advantage? I imagine he'd have it on tight courses, but the opposite would be true for myself (?). Hehe... boy does my car feel big now. No flames... just curious. And thanks to everyone on the list for their continued help.

Reply to: Steven Hazard <98m3@mediaone.net>

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