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#1. Re: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 13:33:27 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > The instructions on how to do this are in Part 2, which I'm NOT going to > post, since it's kind of long and detailed and won't interest everyone. If > you want the how-to part, please e-mail me privately. I don't know how the rest of the list feels, but this is more on-topic than half the posts on the list lately, and I would vote for you to send it out to all. Barring that, please forward it on to me. ;-) -peterg (shroud held in place by safety wire and duct tape) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#2. Re[2]: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 16:57:17 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 >> The instructions on how to do this are in Part 2, which I'm NOT going to >> post, since it's kind of long and detailed and won't interest everyone. If >> you want the how-to part, please e-mail me privately. > I don't know how the rest of the list feels, but this is more on-topic than > half the posts on the list lately, and I would vote for you to send it out to all. > Barring that, please forward it on to me. ;-) > -peterg > (shroud held in place by safety wire and duct > tape) I second Peter's suggestion, my '97 is still on its original shroud but there's signs it's starting to come apart a bit.. Send it to the list and we'll stash it away. Andrej '97 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] DIY Ram Air - from Joe Tan
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 14:07:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] DIY Ram Air Ben, Doesn't yout Ram air kit blocks the brake duct from providing any air to the brakes? Joe. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#4. Re: Check Coolant Level - from Ed Tang
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 14:15:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Check Coolant Level Thanks to all who replied. Regarding Rich's message: -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:45:39 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: Check Coolant Level >So far, every time I have gotten this message, I >simply needed to add some fluid. ---With the engine cold, the level was fine, just a little under the line. I put about a cup o water up to the line. Still got intermittent warning. >The first time I got it after I had some work done on >my car by Brett Anderson where he had replaced the >infamous plastic water pump. ---Had that done last September. Until I inspect it, I can't be certain it's the cause. The car's not leaking, at least I hope not. I'm not sure why the gremlins would pop up now. I've had the plastic impeller for 5 years till it went and I have the proper pump in now. Could it fail that quickly? >The second time I was working on my car where I had >disconnected a radiator hose removing my alternator >and a little bit of fluid spilled out (less >than 1 cup). I added some water (about a cup) and it >has been fine since. ---cup o didn't work:-( >IIRC, Brett explained that the coolant level sensor >is very sensitive and the minute it gets a little too >low, it will warn you. You can also get the warning >if your system has a little air in it so always bleed >off any air. ---I was thinking the sensor is off. I know most of us get that annoying "Windshield washer fluid low" warning everytime you squirt it once. I can live with that one. It's the potential engine damage warnings that scare me. The Peake tool didn't detect anything but I'm not sure that it would. ---I bled as much air as I could and the system didn't seem to need it. Thanks again to everyone. I will inspect the water pump tonight and possibly start off with a new radiator cap first. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#5. tire size... - from Ben Tickner
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 17:25:15 -0700 From: "Ben Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: tire size... Hello listers, I have a wheel / tire question. My 95 has the 8.5 LTW wheels on all 4 corners. I am running 235-40-17 Pirelli p7000 on all 4 as well. My question is this, "what is the largest tire I can run on the back" I want to keep the 235's up front because they do not rub. will a 255, 265, 275, fit on the 8.5 wheel? Is there a company that will make the tires for the front and rear that I want? Thanks for any tips- Ben 95-///M3
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#6. customize your shifter position - from Ben Liaw
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 17:11:28 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: customize your shifter position while digging through some parts, i recently discovered a discrepancy between some early model E36 M3s (prior to 9/94 production) and those E36 M3s produced thereafter. the early model E36 M3s (prior to 9/94 production) use the following selector rod: 25 11 1 222 019 everyone else uses this part number 25 11 1 222 738 the big difference between the two selector rods is the following: "019" pin-pin length = 188mm "738" pin-pin length = 198mm basically, for virtually everyone with the "738" spec'd selector rod, you can have the position of your shift knob moved more REARWARD by using the "019" selector rod. if you have the "019" selector rod, you can move your shift knob more FORWARD by using the "738" selector rod. for what it's worth. ben liaw
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#7. Re: [E36M3] DIY Ram Air - from Ben Liaw
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 17:16:03 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] DIY Ram Air joe, have you ever seen where the back of the "brake duct" actually ends up? the factory brake duct sends air RUSHING to the TIRE, not the brake, not the backing plate, not the hub. ask anyone who's warped their stock rotors at the track about the factory "brake ducts". basically, the factory ducts are useless. thank goodness for aftermarket backing plates, hoses and REAL brake ducts. so, the long answer, YES, it blocks air in the brake duct, but as i mentioned, the factory "brake duct" is a general term since it isn't really effective in providing additional air to the brakes. ben > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 14:07:37 -0700 (PDT) > From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] DIY Ram Air > > Ben, > > Doesn't yout Ram air kit blocks the brake duct from > providing any air to the brakes? > > Joe. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: Kumho Ecsta V700 - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 17:44:54 -0400 From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> Subject: Re: Kumho Ecsta V700 OK, so the left front was a little worn <g>. The others are OK, but 13 and the Carousel ate the left front badly. That was day 7 for those tires, so they put up a good fight. Seriously, I appreciate the compliments. Saturday at Nelson was a good day. I managed to uphold BMW ///Motorsport's honor by passing everyone but the GT-1 car (including the C5's, modified RX-7 TT's and hopped-up pony cars). However, a poor defenseless Yoko AO32R had to sacrifice itself in the process. Even when running -3 degrees in the front, if you try to make the car and the tires do things they can't, you'll kill tires. I managed a 1:18 on one lap and had about a dozen 1:19's and a bunch of 1:20's. One scary note to all of you M3 track junkies out there - a stock Z06 on street tires is damn fast. A guy there Saturday who has some Nelson experience was pushing his Z06 pretty hard. Even though he had street tires and drove a little sloppy (not overly smooth, but maybe it's the car) he could run 1:20's and 1:21's. It took me about 4-5 laps of really working and concentrating to catch him. That car would pull out of corners incredibly well and once he got to the straights, it felt like I was towing my trailer. I hope they move those damn things to ASP in 2002 as planned :) Rich, you did well Saturday, you just need to stop braking at 3 and 11 and you'll be fine (which you said you were working on at the end of the day). The little spin in 13 was fun - it was made even more exciting by the fact that Nelson had no corner workers Saturday (I don't want to talk about it). If you're going to spin at Nelson, 13's the place to get it out of your system. Although next time, spin so the driver, not the instructor, is facing on coming traffic <g>. Thanks again, it was good to run with you. Vern "Dorffer, Rich" wrote: > Vern notes > 98 M3/2 with almost trashed Yoko track tires > > Almost trashed???!?? I saw these tires this past weekend. The left front > was essentially missing its outside shoulder and had been basically corded > every couple of inches (and he runs something like negative 3 degrees of > camber). I think the left rear was on it's last legs as well. > > I got to observe Vern this weekend at Nelson. Other than being a very good > instructor when he joined me for a few laps and gave me great advice that > made a considerable difference for me (faster and safer), he is damned fast > too. I even tried to scare him once by looping it in turn 13 ;-) Note to > self, keep working on the heel and toe stuff, especially on those 3-2 > downshifts. > > Regards, > > Rich > > 95 M3 - Pretty worn MXX3s (average age of six years) that get greasy quick > and are just about finished, especially the left front which, even with 40 - > 45 psi, got worn 1/3 of the way down the outside shoulder this past weekend.
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#9. Kumho Ecsta V700 - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 17:59:46 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Kumho Ecsta V700 Haven't been reading the list, just thought I would put a data point in on this, sorry if it is redundant. We got a few test sets of the new Ecsta V700 this season, but apparently all the rest are on hold until the old tires sell. They are definitely a better tire than the old Kumho Victorracers (which took over 3G of lead to balance!!!). Easier to balance, nice pattern for intermediate tires, slightly faster than the old ones, but wear quicker as well. James ----------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance BMWCCA/SCCA Racecar Rental Genuine OEM and Used BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ----------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 4:46 PM Subject: [E36M3] E36M3 #1461 > This digest contains the following messages: > > 1. wheel repair > by: Jonathan Evans <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> > 2. Re: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > by: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > 3. Aftermarket seats and airbag sensors > by: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> > 4. re: Leathermaster vs. Woolies? > by: Dinah DeRoller <dinah_g_deroller@redcom.com> > 5. Re: [E36M3] Aftermarket seats and airbag sensors > by: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> > 6. Re: Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > by: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> > 7. Kumho Ecsta V700 > by: Dorffer, Rich <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> > 8. Re: Check Coolant Level > by: Dorffer, Rich <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> > 9. RE: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > by: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> > 10. Re: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta V700 > by: Mark Radelow <radelow@hotmail.com> > > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:06:42 -0400 > From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> > Subject: wheel repair > > Weird, this didn't seem to go through yesterday... > > ******** > > I'd get that refinish warrantee in writing. I had two bent rims on my old > 90 VW corrado (very light and soft wheels) and the guys in Bath, PA > perfectly straightened both, but had to repaint one. I could scratch the > finish off with my fingernail. I was very disappointed. This was 4 years > ago, I sold the car shortly afterwards. I was in college, and did not call > them back or take the matter any further. I had more important things to do > (so I thought at the time). > > http://www.aaarims.com/ > > I found these guys on the internet, have never used them or spoken to them. > Just another possible source for OEM BMW wheels. > > Jonathan Evans > 95 M3 with staggered LTW wheels, still need the 2 rears refinished. By > whom? where?? My real plan is to get a set of 8.5 inchers or 7.5 all > around for track/autocross. > > > > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 14:08:48 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > > on 7/10/01 1:48 PM, Jim Bassett at jbassett@geysernetworks.com wrote: > > > Otherwise, great job testing, Neil. I'm sure the "repeatedly testing it at > > 140 mph" was really tough on you :-) > > I only did it in the interests of science... > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:21:03 -0400 > From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> > Subject: Aftermarket seats and airbag sensors > > I'm installing a pair of Recaro SRD's sometime in the next few weeks so > I can install sub belts and to lose a few pounds (from the car, not me) > and I have questions for the collective about the airbag sensors. I > know the stock seats have the sensor mats in them that I've been told > will activate the dashboard airbag light if they are not present. > Having the light on doesn't bother me except that I've also been told > that this means the airbags won't work. I know airbags have their pros > and cons, but for street driving and insurance reasons, I'd like for > them to work. I've seen Jim Powell's article about how he defeated this > problem and I'm considering this route. Does anyone have any first hand > info about what they did or if they used Powell's method how well did it > work? Thanks for any input. > > Vern Anderson > 98 M3/2 > > > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:28:32 -0400 > From: Dinah DeRoller <dinah_g_deroller@redcom.com> > Subject: re: Leathermaster vs. Woolies? > > Scott, > > I've used Leathermaster on the black interior of my M3 > several times. The end result is very nice, and hopefully > it'll delay or prevent the cracking side bolsters (along > with the seat covers which I'm still waiting for). The > result is a glossy (but not too glossy) look, with a > slightly softer feel. It seems to last around 6 months, > for me at least (I try to do it twice a year). > > The key is to work the treatment oil in with your hands, let > it bake in the sun for a few hours (closed car), and then > wipe off the surface goo with the cleaner. Wear gloves, > my hands always peel afterwards. > > Dinah > > '97 M3/2 > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 14:01:00 -0400 > From: "scott " <scott@ditherdog.com> > Subject: Leathermaster vs. Woolies? > > Howdy fellow listers, > > I know that many of you have the dreaded cracking side bolsters - I've been > getting more and > more sick of it, and have been looking into products like Leathermaster. Has > anyone tried this > product? Also, if anyone saw the most recent edition of Bimmer (with the white > M5 on the > cover), they showcase a product by Woolies of England with some stunning results > on an old, > cracked M6 seat. If anyone might have experience with either of these products > (or especially > both) and could comment on longetivity and how the leather feels after this > repair, I would > greatly appreciate it. > > Thanks very much, > > Scott Yu > Newton, MA > > > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:34:40 -0500 > From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aftermarket seats and airbag sensors > > I had the seatbelt sensor go bad in my car a while back (conveniently when the > car was out of warranty...). The collective wisdom of the list clarified the > interaction between airbags and seatbelt sensors: > > Just because the airbag light is lit (i.e. sensor is bad) does not mean the > airbag will not deploy. The sensor plays some function in determining what > speed the airbag will deploy at. Belted in - deploys at a higher crash speed. > Not belted in - deploys at a lower crash speed. Without the sensor it will > deploy, but it will deploy as if you were not belted in. > > That is my understanding of how that whole system works. > > Andrej > '97 M3 > > Vern Anderson writes: > > > I'm installing a pair of Recaro SRD's sometime in the next few weeks so > > I can install sub belts and to lose a few pounds (from the car, not me) > > and I have questions for the collective about the airbag sensors. I > > know the stock seats have the sensor mats in them that I've been told > > will activate the dashboard airbag light if they are not present. > > Having the light on doesn't bother me except that I've also been told > > that this means the airbags won't work. I know airbags have their pros > > and cons, but for street driving and insurance reasons, I'd like for > > them to work. I've seen Jim Powell's article about how he defeated this > > problem and I'm considering this route. Does anyone have any first hand > > info about what they did or if they used Powell's method how well did it > > work? Thanks for any input. > > > Vern Anderson > > 98 M3/2 > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:40:08 -0400 > From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> > Subject: Re: Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > > This past winter I was determined to retain my stock undertray pieces > and I undertook a strengthening campaign at my local shop (a big > off-list thanks to Mark Connolly for free raiding of his fastener bin). > I replaced the tiny, useless, stock metal clips that the small screws > thread into them with huge (3/4" square) metal clips and used actual > bolts, washers and nuts to hold the parts on. In one place where the > stock undertray had started to crack near a fastening point, I used an > old piece of tin, drilled a hole in it and bolted everything together > again with the tin piece in the middle to give it some strength. The > undertray is now completely solid and has survived 130 mph runs at VIR > Full, Watkins, Mid-Ohio, Summit and Nelson with no ill effects. I think > I have created a new category of E36M3 owner - those who refuse to lose > the stock shroud. Baring any off-track excursions I plan on keep it on > the car indefinitely. If your stock shroud is still attached and > relatively undamaged, don't give up on it - they can be spared. > > Vern Anderson > 98 M3/2 > > >-------------------- 8 -------------------- > >Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 13:35:12 -0500 > >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > >Subject: Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > > > >There are two kinds of E36 M3 owners: those who have already lost the > >under-radiator shroud, and those who will.... > > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:44:17 -0400 > From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> > Subject: Kumho Ecsta V700 > > Vern notes > 98 M3/2 with almost trashed Yoko track tires > > > Almost trashed???!?? I saw these tires this past weekend. The left front > was essentially missing its outside shoulder and had been basically corded > every couple of inches (and he runs something like negative 3 degrees of > camber). I think the left rear was on it's last legs as well. > > I got to observe Vern this weekend at Nelson. Other than being a very good > instructor when he joined me for a few laps and gave me great advice that > made a considerable difference for me (faster and safer), he is damned fast > too. I even tried to scare him once by looping it in turn 13 ;-) Note to > self, keep working on the heel and toe stuff, especially on those 3-2 > downshifts. > > Regards, > > Rich > > 95 M3 - Pretty worn MXX3s (average age of six years) that get greasy quick > and are just about finished, especially the left front which, even with 40 - > 45 psi, got worn 1/3 of the way down the outside shoulder this past weekend. > > > > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:45:39 -0400 > From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> > Subject: Re: Check Coolant Level > > Ed, > > So far, every time I have gotten this message, I simply needed to add some > fluid. The first time I got it after I had some work done on my car by > Brett Anderson where he had replaced the infamous plastic water pump. The > check coolant level warning came on twice at my next event at Mid-Ohio. > IIRC, he happened to be there and looked at me like something catastrophic > had occurred (he has a way of doing that) and he said "add a little water to > it, it will be fine mate". He was right. > > The second time I was working on my car where I had disconnected a radiator > hose removing my alternator and a little bit of fluid spilled out (less than > 1 cup). I added some water (about a cup) and it has been fine since. > > IIRC, Brett explained that the coolant level sensor is very sensitive and > the minute it gets a little too low, it will warn you. You can also get the > warning if your system has a little air in it so always bleed off any air. > > Hope this helps. > > Disclaimer: This helped me, if your engine blows, my advice does not apply > and you should have gotten a more definitive and informed answer ;-) > > Regards, > > Rich > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 12:48:31 -0700 > From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > > Jim, > > Thanks for pointing out this little tidbit. I did not know that there was a > material difference in shroud design between the coupe and sedan. I've been > reading posts about people's shrouds coming off for all this time and I keep > crawling under my car to check on mine and it always seems solid as rock. > Despite my insistence on running into every curb I pull up to. > > jeff > 98M3/4 > Shroud frequently tested to 150+mph on I-505. > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 11:48:06 -0700 > > From: Jim Bassett <jbassett@geysernetworks.com> > > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 1 > > > > > There are two kinds of E36 M3 owners: those who have already lost the > > > under-radiator shroud, and those who will. (OK, OK, then there's you > > > Lightweight guys who don't have this problem at all!) > > > > Ahem, and the Sedan guys (& gals). The shroud on the Sedans is smaller and > > of different design which appears to stay in place better (having said > that, > > mine is guarranteed to fall off on the way home this evening :-)). > > > > Otherwise, great job testing, Neil. I'm sure the "repeatedly testing it at > > 140 mph" was really tough on you :-) > > > > Cheers, > > Jim Bassett > > 1998 M3/4 - after losing the rear caliper at speed, probably wouldn't even > > notice the loss of the shroud > > > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 20:27:00 -0000 > From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta V700 > > I run then on my race car and like them. They are reasonably priced and > last. They won't have the outright grip a Hoosier or BFG will have but if > you are looking for a good all around race tire they work very well. > > Mark > > > From: vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com > Reply-To: vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta V700 > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 14:06:00 -0500 > > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 15:04:40 -0400 > From: vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com > Subject: Kumho Ecsta V700 > > Does anyone have any info about this new tire? (Note - this is NOT the > Ecsta Supra street tire) I remember someone mentioned it a while back. > >From this limited Tire Rack info page, it looks like it will be offered > in a 235/40/17 size. I have always run 235/40/17 Yoko AO32R's and I've > considered trying 225/45/17 Victoracers. I have no idea what this tire > would be like compared to those two as far as grip, wear and price. I > apologize if this was discussed recently and I've missed it. > > http://www.tirerack.com/tires/kumho/ku_ecsta_v700.jsp > > Vern Anderson > 98 M3/2 with almost trashed Yoko track tires > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > Attached files are not permitted on this list, attachment has been removed. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > ************************************************************** > Digest Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************** > >
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#10. Fix for squeaking swaybar? - from Steve Lilley
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 17:59:54 -0400 From: Steve Lilley <m3steve@earthlink.net> Subject: Fix for squeaking swaybar? Hi all, I spent a day last week at a drivers schools at Summit Point. I was forced to skip the last session, due to a terrible noise that was coming from the front end of the car. To make a long story short, the noises turned out to be coming from the bushings between the Eibach swaybar and the body of the car (whew! an easily fixed problem) -- apparently, the greese had all been worked out of the bushing over the last few months (a couple of schools), and a hot day at Summit was enough to work the last bit out. Besides removing the swaybars every six months or so to relube the bushings, is there a more permament solution? Better grease, perhaps? I thought I remembered this thread coming up a couple of months ago...now I wish I had payed attention! Regards, Steve m3steve@earthlink.net