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#1. Carfax...Worth It? - from Steve
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 16:37:28 -0700 From: Steve <sgrigory@pacbell.net> Subject: Carfax...Worth It? Anyone here used the Carfax service? I thought about checking out my own car but I got a bit cheap when I hit the $19.95 part. :) Since it's a car I already own, I stopped. My question is whether or not anyone here has used it for whatever purpose and found it useful. steve
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#2. [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 2 - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 22:07:36 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: [E36M3] Air Duct/Shroud Fix - Part 2 on 7/10/01 5:15 PM, peter@guagenti.com wrote: >> The instructions on how to do this are in Part 2, which I'm NOT going to >> post, since it's kind of long and detailed and won't interest everyone. If >> you want the how-to part, please e-mail me privately. > > I don't know how the rest of the list feels, but this is more on-topic than > half the posts on the list lately, and I would vote for you to send it out to > all. OK, with apologies to the people who have already received it privately, here goes. Neil 96 M3 E36 M3 SHROUD FIX ================= This is Part 2 of 2. Part 1 had an overview of the problem, and isn't needed to carry out the fix. These instructions and parts list are for a standard E36 M3 coupé and were correct for my 96 model. As always there may be variations between model years. The M3 four door doesn't have the same shroud system, and coupés with the luxury package may also be different - I don't know. The 95 M3 Lightweight has a unique air duct arrangement and isn't subject to this problem at all. These instructions may seem long, but the actual procedure isn't that complicated. However I assumed that most people haven't installed nutserts before, and wanted to include all the detail you'd need to get the job done successfully. TOOLS & SUPPLIES ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ In addition to a jack, jackstands, and normal garage tools, you're going to need: - An electric drill - An set of drill bits (see text for sizes) - M5x0.8 nutserts (P/N BTI-225, $0.28 each - cheap, get at least a dozen) - Nutsert installation tool (P/N BTI-800, $43.88, qty 1) - M5x0.8 nutsert thread adapter (P/N BTI-920, $8.90, qty 1) - M5x0.8 machine screws or hex bolts, 20-30mm long, plated (hardware store, qty 6. Stainless steel if you can find them) - An assortmant of steel washers (stainless is better) - Felt tip pen (Sharpie or similar) - Bench vise - A mechanic's creeper helps a lot, but isn't absolutely necessary. For those not familiar with them, nutserts are special tubular rivets that are threaded internally. They are used to provide a threaded hole in materials such as light gauge plastic or sheet metal that are too thin to be drilled and tapped, and are available in a range of inch and metric sizes. The nutsert itself is riveted in place with a special tool. The part numbers and prices above are from Reid Tool Supply Company in Muskegon, MI, <www.reidtool.com> or phone 800-253-0421. If your plastic shroud has already torn off, you may also need any or all of the following BMW parts: Shroud 51 72 2 250 643 Baffle 17 11 2 227 690 (fits inside shroud) Left porkchop 51 71 2 250 641 Right porkchop 51 71 2 250 642 Left wheelarch liner 51 71 1 977 047 (see text) Right wheelarch liner 51 71 1 977 048 (see text) A good discount mail order source for these is The BMW Store in Cincinnati, OH, phone 513-271-8700 (ask for James Dean in the Parts Department). The porkchops are often damaged in everyday driving scrapes, and almost always when the shroud blows off. Because part of the porkchop attachment is to the wheelarch liners, these are often broken too and have to be replaced in order for the porkchops to be remounted securely. INSTALLATION ^^^^^^^^^^^^ The following instructions assume that you still have the stock shroud and porkchops in place. If yours have already torn off, you'll first need to mount a new central shroud, but can leave the porkchops off until the end. Jack up both sides of the front of the car quite high, support securely with jackstands and slide underneath. (You can leave the wheels in place.) Look at the shroud and where its front edge tucks up above the plastic bumper cover. With your felt tip pen mark a spot on the bumper cover 1/4" inboard from from the lip that's moulded along the rear edge (i.e. about 3/4" from the edge) and in the centre of the car. Now mark two more at either side, two or three inches in from each end of the shroud. Finally mark a further two spots about midway between the centre and side spots. You now have a total of five points marked at roughly equal intervals about 3/4" in from the trailing edge of the bumper cover. Using an electric drill and a 1/8" bit, drill pilot holes at each mark in the bumper cover and on up through the hidden forward part of the shroud. Your drill bit should point somewhat backward (maybe a 15 degree angle or so) in order to hit the shroud's curved forward portion more or less straight on. Using an 8mm nutdriver or socket, remove the screws holding the left and right porkchops, and set these parts aside. With an 8mm socket on a 6+" extension, undo the 4 screws holding the shroud. Pull the shroud itself down and back to remove it from the car. Drill out the 5 pilot holes in the bumper cover only - NOT the shroud - to 1/4". The next step is to install nutserts in the shroud. I strongly recommend that you practice a couple of times on a piece of scrap plastic of similar thickness. It's important to drill the nutsert holes to just the right size. The specified size is 7.6mm, but in a soft material like plastic a slightly tighter fit works well. I used 7mm, for which the closest inch size would be 9/32" (= 7.14mm). So drill a couple of holes of that size in your scrap material. The nutsert should be a firm push fit in the hole. Enlarge the holes a bit if necessary, but don't allow the fit to be sloppy. You'll also need to use a washer over the nutsert on its back side to prevent it from pulling through the soft plastic. Since you're not going to find a washer with the right 7.6mm hole size, you'll have to choose the next smaller size from your washer assortment and drill it out. I used a 7.5mm drill and wiggled it slightly to enlarge the hole a fraction beyond that. The nearest inch size would be 19/64" (= 7.54mm). Clamp the washer in your vise and drill the hole to size. Don't make the hole any larger than it needs to be for a tight push fit on the nutsert. Push a nutsert into your scrap plastic, and place a drilled washer on to its back side. Mount the M5 thread adapter into the installation tool, and thread it into the nutsert. With one hand hold the washer firmly down against the back side of the plastic, and with the other squeeze the installation tool to expand the nutsert. You may need to use two hands on the tool to finish the crimp. (Yes, that would be for a total of three hands...) If the nutsert is firmly crimped in place with no looseness or wiggle, then good job! However if the nutsert expanded between the washer and the plastic, then you didn't have the washer pressed down enough. If the nutsert expanded into the washer's bore rather than behind it, then you drilled the washer out too big. Correct if necessary, and install another trial nutsert. Assuming it's good, you're now ready to do it for real. Drill out your 5 pilot holes in the shroud to the correct size (7mm or 9/32"), and drill out 5 more washers (7.5mm or 19/64"). Crimp nutserts with backing washers into each of the 5 holes in the shroud with the same technique you practiced. Mount the shroud back into the car using its 4 original screws. Place washers on to your 5mm machine screws (I used button head stainless steel screws that I had lying around) and screw them through the 1/4" holes you made in the bumper cover and into the nutserts you've just installed in the shroud. Tighten firmly but not too much. There will be some angular misalignment as you tighten the screws, but the plastic parts are flexible enough to accommodate that. Tug on the shroud - it should feel attached very firmly indeed. Remount the porkchops, making sure their tabs engage the sides of the shroud. If their mounts in the wheelarch liners are damaged, replace the liners. On my car I've also reinforced the liner mounts using 20 gauge aluminum sheet (hardware store) cut to size and riveted to the liners, and more 5mm nutserts and machine screws replacing the stock Tinnerman nuts and sheet metal screws. That's a refinement you may not need or want to do. I can supply more info about this on request. Please feel free to send me any corrections or suggestions. Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Fix for squeaking swaybar? - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 00:11:09 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fix for squeaking swaybar? The Fix??? See below - - ->>> Steve Lilley wrote: > Hi all, > > I spent a day last week at a drivers schools at Summit Point. I > was forced to skip the last session, due to a terrible noise that > was coming from the front end of the car. To make a long story > short, the noises turned out to be coming from the bushings between > the Eibach swaybar and the body of the car (whew! an easily fixed > problem) -- apparently, the greese had all been worked out of the > bushing over the last few months (a couple of schools), and a hot > day at Summit was enough to work the last bit out. > > Besides removing the swaybars every six months or so to relube > the bushings, is there a more permament solution? Better grease, > perhaps? If you plan to use the urethane bushings there is no such thing as maintenance free urethane bushings. There are many different greases out there but they will all eventually work their way out. The reason of course is that the sway bar must actually turn inside a urethane bushing. If you're ambitious you can modify (i.e., drill) your mounting bracket by installing a grease (aka: zerk) fitting and periodically grease the bushing much the same way you would for older style suspension components. The other permanent fix is to use the factory 26 mm front rubber bushings. The rear bar does not move up and down enough to cause any noticeable noise. Most (if not all) the noise comes from the front. I currently run the rubber bushings up front. Cheers, Jim E.
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Fix for squeaking swaybar? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 23:32:48 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <mel.silva@pdq.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fix for squeaking swaybar? Possible fix for squeaky urethane bushing on swaybars... Long, long ago, in a lifetime I have mostly forgotten, I installed the ADCO urethane bushings all over my Datsun 510. As part of the installation, one of my "friends" that would come over, drink my beer and laugh at the amount of time I "wasted" working on that car, came up with a suggestion that I believe works. We wrapped the sway bar in Teflon tape at the sections that came in contact with the urethane. Then we slathered on that sticky green goop that they give you for grease. I'm having a hard time remembering how well this actually worked, which is a good sign since I don't recall being irritated by squeaky bushings. Anyone else try this? Might work. Mel > -----Original Message----- > From: nabli@attglobal.net [mailto:nabli@attglobal.net] > Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 11:06 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fix for squeaking swaybar? > > > Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 00:11:09 -0400 > From: nabli@attglobal.net > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fix for squeaking swaybar? > > The Fix??? See below - - ->>> > > Steve Lilley wrote: > > > Hi all, > > > > I spent a day last week at a drivers schools at Summit Point. I > > was forced to skip the last session, due to a terrible noise that > > was coming from the front end of the car. To make a long story > > short, the noises turned out to be coming from the bushings between > > the Eibach swaybar and the body of the car (whew! an easily fixed > > problem) -- apparently, the greese had all been worked out of the > > bushing over the last few months (a couple of schools), and a hot > > day at Summit was enough to work the last bit out. > > > > Besides removing the swaybars every six months or so to relube > > the bushings, is there a more permament solution? Better grease, > > perhaps? > > If you plan to use the urethane bushings there is no such thing as > maintenance free urethane bushings. There are many different greases out > there but they will all eventually work their way out. The reason of > course is that the sway bar must actually turn inside a urethane bushing. > If you're ambitious you can modify (i.e., drill) your mounting bracket by > installing a grease (aka: zerk) fitting and periodically grease > the bushing > much the same way you would for older style suspension components. > > The other permanent fix is to use the factory 26 mm front rubber bushings. > The rear bar does not move up and down enough to cause any noticeable > noise. Most (if not all) the noise comes from the front. I currently run > the rubber bushings up front. > > Cheers, > Jim E. > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta V700 - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 16:31:39 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta V700 Mark, How did you get a hold of a set of Ecsta V700's? Did you compare them to the Victoracers? Tire Rack claims they are still not shipping. I just had to order a set of the older Kumho Victoracers since they don't have the new Ecsta V700's yet. I think the new 235/40 size will work great on the M3. Then I don't have to keep stuffing the 245/45's on a 7.5" wheel. Chris 97 M3/4 SCCA AS ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 20:27:00 -0000 > From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho Ecsta V700 > > I run then on my race car and like them. They are reasonably priced and > last. They won't have the outright grip a Hoosier or BFG will have but if > you are looking for a good all around race tire they work very well. > > Mark
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#6. early LTW's - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 07:39:08 EDT From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: early LTW's on the discussion of the early LTW's with low VIN numbers outside the range... it is correct is saying that several (10 to be specific) LTW's were done pre-production and they were sent to PTG to be specially prepared for racing. I have seen 1 of these 10 cars. They are actually LIGHTER than the production LTW. The car actually comes with a letter from BMW NA that states that the car was prep'd by PTG for racing (in the IMSA series??) and the letter is sign by BMW NA Motorsport Director Eric Wensberg. the know the car and owner. The car dominates stock class in BMW Club Racing here in the Midwest. The car might?? be for sale in the future. bob
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#7. [Fwd: Airbag Light...] - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 08:07:09 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: [Fwd: Airbag Light...] -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Airbag Light... Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 23:27:49 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <JConners@columbus.rr.com> To: <suzy@bmw-m.net> Hopefully I can shed some light on the airbag workings...In the past I was privy to information about the workings of the SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) for Honda. This includes the seatbelts and airbags as well as the necessary sensors and general knowledge of the algorithms. This system information is only from my experience with Honda automobiles but should correlate well with BMW. There are only a few tier 1 suppliers of these devices in the world and the major players all use them (Takata, Siemens, NEC, Autoliv, etc.).First, there are different delays between the detection of a crash and the TTF (Time To Fire) for the respective airbags depending on the type and severity of the crash. This is all figured out using G-data from accelerometers in the main SRS unit. The main SRS unit in my 97 M3 is above the center tunnel under the front edge of the rear seat. On Honda automobiles, the main SRS unit is on the center tunnel under the instrument panel. These locations provide a stable observation of the acceleration data from the body of the car. Sometimes manufacturers use extra sensors for other types of impacts. There might be accelerometers at the base of each B-Pillar to monitor side impacts. There could be accels or mechanical switches on a bulkhead or each side frame near the front bumper to aide in determination of the type and severity of front impact. There are and can be any number of others... Normally, if the main unit "sees" some threshold deceleration, it will "wake-up" and compare the incoming data to sets of characteristic data that determine if there is a crash and if so what type of crash. Then there are predetermined TTFs for the different airbags related to the type and severity of crash. For instance, a flat front crash into a rigid barrer would have a relatively quick TTF (~10-15 ms / ballpark & varies) versus an offset crash into a deformable barrier that would have a relatively long TTF (~30 or more ms / again, ballpark & varies). These examples would be like the US NCAP (New Car Assessment Program) [the gov't star ratings] and the IIHS (Insurance Institute for Highway Safety) ODB (Offset Deformable Barrier) [the ones on Dateline NBC] tests, respectively. The TTFs are determined during the vehicle's development and are a result of the attempt to minimize different injury criteria to the dummies in the car. You remember Vince and Larry, right?Second, the seat belt issue. The TTF can be different for the driver or assistant depending on the use of the seatbelts. If the occupant were not wearing the seatbelt, the TTF would be shorter since nothing is slowing the occupant. If the occupant were wearing the seatbelt, the TTF would be shorter since the load limiter in the seatbelt would provide a resistance to the occupant's forward motion. This would cause more time to elapse before the airbag would be effective. There are also newer airbags that have multiple stages to the deployment. Along with the initial delay in TTF, there could be a secondary delay between the stages of the airbag to help minimize injury. In an unbelted crash, the stages would probably be fired simultaneously after a short delay to provide a high stiffness to the occupant. This would try to prevent the ejection of the occupant from the car or bottoming of the occupant on the steering wheel or other interior. In a belted crash, the first stage would deploy after and relatively longer (typically) TTF and then the second stage would be fired a few milliseconds later. This would provide a lower stiffness to the occupant that in conjunction with the seatbelt would attempt to minimize injury.Oh, here's a few more items...Check www.highwaysafety.org & www.nhtsa.gov for more information on IIHS ODB and NCAP tests.Food for thought...1 - What would happen if you were in an accident and your feet were resting on the passenger airbag module? I know it's comfortable sometimes if you're lounging in the passenger seat to rest your feet there, but think about it.2 - What about all those people that like to put things on the parcel shelf under the rear windscreen? Heavier items that aren't secured will fly forward in the event of a sudden stop or impact.3 - I know it's been said before, but airbags are most effective when used in conjunction with the seatbelt. Don't just think that because there are airbags, that you will be okay. I've been guilty of driving from the mailbox to my garage (I live in an apartment complex) without putting on the seatbelt. It only takes one quick stop from a few mph (~10-15) to make you realize the forces that are acting on you.Thanks for your time and sorry for the long post,Jeremy97 M3 (hellrot)PS - This was only meant to provide more information on the subject. Hopefully the content is analogous to BMW. I make no guarantees that it is 100% correct even for Honda autos. If you have any questions feel free to email me directly.
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#8. new parts source - from NickG
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 09:28:18 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: new parts source I ran across another parts source on the web: www.thepartsbin.com They seem to have pretty good prices on some items. For example: Front left Brembo rotor: $50.68 Front right Brembo rotor: $52.07 '95 M3 Oxygen Sensor: $76.23 Plus, orders over $50 get free shipping in the continental US. That's a pair of new front rotors delivered to your door for under $103!!! Nick '95 M3 turbo
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#9. Re: Check Coolant Level - from Ed Tang
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 06:29:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Check Coolant Level It looks like a bit of Murphy's law exerting force on the car. I checked the water pump and the radiator for leaks. None. I checked the cap to see if it was threaded but it was fine. I drove the car yesterday on 3 occasions and no check engine light goes on for the coolant level. I figured it would light up this morning but not at all. It feels like being sick and going to the doctor and all your symptoms disappear until you leave the office. I guess writing the list was a good remedy. I'm sure it will light up again. It did get cooler yesterday afternoon as it was this morning. The light first appeared over the weekend when it was 95 degrees and 200% humidity. I'm not sure if the humidity would cause it. I think the sensor wire is probably crimped or something where hitting a bump would momentariy disconnect it and shoot off the warning. If it lights up again I'll think about replacing the sensor. Thanks again. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#10. RE:Radio Code - from Vince Throckmorton
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 09:01:32 -0500 From: Vince Throckmorton <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> Subject: RE:Radio Code Anyone have the code for a 98 AM/FM cassette? I had the radio out last night and my dealer tells me I have to bring it in or pull the radio back out and call them with the serial #. You can e-mail me privately. THANKS Vince Throckmorton 98 M3-4 vince@rjthrockmorton.com