E36M3 #1467

Wednesday, July 11, 2001 18:16:16

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Z3 Rienforcement plate mounting ? - from Chester Wong
#2. Re: Shock length help - from Neil Maller
#3. RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Vince Leo
#4. Pioneer CD Changer - mounting options - from Seth Frader-Thompson
#5. Re: [E36M3] RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Chester Wong
#6. Re: [E36M3] RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Vince Leo
#7. Brake Bleeding Issues - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
#8. Sway Bars - Advice and Input - from peter@guagenti.com
#9. Re: Radio code - from Joe Tan
#10. RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Mel Silva

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Z3 Rienforcement plate mounting ? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 12:56:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Z3 Rienforcement plate mounting ? I have two extra reinforcement plates for $15 each. Chester --- Rob Jackowitz <rjme@msn.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 15:22:18 -0400 > From: "Rob Jackowitz" <rjme@msn.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Z3 Rienforcement plate mounting ? > > Is this a worthwhile upgrade? > Has anyone else installed this on their car? > > Rob > > >Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 09:48:06 -0700 (PDT) > >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Z3 Rienforcement plate mounting ? > > > >From bottom up: > > > >- Rear shock mount > >- Sheet metal > >- Reinforcement plate > >- Nuts > > > >HTH, > >Chester > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Chester Wong

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#2. Re: Shock length help - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 15:27:40 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Shock length help on 7/11/01 3:05 PM, "Birkhead, Rob" <rbirkhead@bb.directv.com> wrote: > Is there someone who can measure the full extended length of the rear shock > for an e36 M3? I bought a used set of Koni C/O off of an M coupe and want to > see how much I am off in length. I would like to know without taking mine > off, so if someone has a set they can use to measure that would be a huge > help. Original stock shock from 96 M3, measured on the bench: 27 7/16" long overall, measured from the bottom end of the mounting eye to the top of the shaft. Neil 96 M3

Reply to: Neil Maller

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#3. RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Vince Leo
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 13:43:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) David, I have a UUC strut bar on the front of my 99 M3 and the fitment is perfect. I have no problems with it what so ever. It is a nice bar. Vince 99 M3 89 M3 /////////// David wrote >I am looking to buy a strut tower bar and rear shock >tower bar for my '99 coupe. Any kind but UUC, which >will not fit a '99. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Vince Leo

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#4. Pioneer CD Changer - mounting options - from Seth Frader-Thompson
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 14:43:41 -0600 (MDT) From: Seth Frader-Thompson <fraderth@colorado.edu> Subject: Pioneer CD Changer - mounting options Before I go and rig up an ugly beast of a bracket to mount my new CD changer to the trunk studs in my car, does anyone have any useful experience to share? I'd like to put the unit in the general vicinity of the factory location. I don't have the factory bracket - anyone know whether it will accomodate a CDX-P676 (I think)? Any other good solutions that I haven't thought of? Thanks, Seth

Reply to: Seth Frader-Thompson

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#5. Re: [E36M3] RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 13:56:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) Well, it depends on what you mean by "fitment is perfect" and "it is a nice bar". Look at the foam under your hood. Is it badly compressed in certain areas? This is from the fact that the design of the bar places many components very high up. Of course, they'll tell you that it's one of the lowest among its competition, but if brand A sucks, and the UUC bar is just slightly less sucky, well then, how good is it? What I noticed when I had the UUC bar installed was that the hood bulged a bit by the end caps. My fear was that someone might lean on the car when it was parked in the city. UUC's response was to keep those people off my car...well, no duh. The other suggestion was that '99M3s used a different hood foam. Nope. Part 51 48 8 151 438 was used from '95 --> '99. I then bought a JTD strut bar and the thing sits really low. Unfortunately, I blew away my directory that used to have the comparison photos...like anyone cares anyway. But now my hood doesn't bulge except where it was designed to bulge and that's about it. Subsequently, the person who bought my UUC bar had two permanent dimples put into the hood when a tech closed the hood a little too hard. D'OH! So go out and look at your hood foam. Compressed a lot where the end caps make contact or where the crossbar is over the engine? Now take a look at a car with a JTD or BMW Motorsport strut brace. What's different? So what's your definition of perfect fit and it's a good bar? Chester --- Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> wrote: > David, > > I have a UUC strut bar on the front of my 99 M3 and > the fitment is perfect. I have no problems with it > what so ever. It is a nice bar. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Chester Wong

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#6. Re: [E36M3] RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Vince Leo
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 14:27:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) Chester, I know I can not convince you that UUC can make anything worth while, so I won't try. You and UUC have had your documented differences and since I was not involved, that is between you and them. All I can say I do not have the problems that you claim. Yes it looks like there is a SLIGHT compression on the foam. The hood does not bulge and or dimple. I have not seen the JTD bar but I am sure it is a great product. Again, I do not want to continue a debate with you, but without seeing my car, I doubt you can assess the fitment of my bar. Besides, at the rate I am going, this will be a dedicated track car by next year... TC Kline rollbar went in yesterday! I'm done and off my soap box. Vince --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Well, it depends on what you mean by "fitment is > perfect" and "it is a nice > bar". Look at the foam under your hood. Is it > badly compressed in certain > areas? This is from the fact that the design of the > bar places many components > very high up. Of course, they'll tell you that it's > one of the lowest among > its competition, but if brand A sucks, and the UUC > bar is just slightly less > sucky, well then, how good is it? > > What I noticed when I had the UUC bar installed was > that the hood bulged a bit > by the end caps. My fear was that someone might > lean on the car when it was > parked in the city. UUC's response was to keep > those people off my car...well, > no duh. The other suggestion was that '99M3s used a > different hood foam. > Nope. Part 51 48 8 151 438 was used from '95 --> > '99. > > I then bought a JTD strut bar and the thing sits > really low. Unfortunately, I > blew away my directory that used to have the > comparison photos...like anyone > cares anyway. But now my hood doesn't bulge except > where it was designed to > bulge and that's about it. Subsequently, the person > who bought my UUC bar had > two permanent dimples put into the hood when a tech > closed the hood a little > too hard. D'OH! > > So go out and look at your hood foam. Compressed a > lot where the end caps make > contact or where the crossbar is over the engine? > Now take a look at a car > with a JTD or BMW Motorsport strut brace. What's > different? > > So what's your definition of perfect fit and it's a > good bar? > > Chester > > --- Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> wrote: > > David, > > > > I have a UUC strut bar on the front of my 99 M3 > and > > the fitment is perfect. I have no problems with > it > > what so ever. It is a nice bar. > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Vince Leo

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#7.  Brake Bleeding Issues - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 17:54:54 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: <E36 M3> Brake Bleeding Issues Hi all, A recent mention of brake bleeding reminded me of a little trouble I had on Sunday. I was prepping the car for VIR this weekend, and the final job was to bleed the brake fluid. Got out my trusty Ultimate Garage pressure bleeding rig, filled it with Ate Super Blue, and started at the driver's rear. Hooked up my bleeding hose and opened up the bleeder screw. Lots of air bubbles (tiny bubbles) came out, even though the pedal has been fine since the last bleeding. Bled forever, but still getting bubbles. Close the bleeder screw, tighten everything up, and repeat. Same thing. Figuring something is going wrong, I call the wife out, and have her pump the brakes. No bubbles at all. Same scenario is repeated at the rest of the wheels (i.e. I tried to use the pressure bleeder but got bubbles, then manual bleeding worked fine). So what is going on? Why do I get bubbles when I use the pressure bleeder (I've had this thing for two years and have never had this problem), but no bubbles using the manual method? This seems odd, and I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Thanks. Shane Kleinpeter Tarheel Chapter '96 M3

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#8. Sway Bars - Advice and Input - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 15:19:12 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Sway Bars - Advice and Input Listers, It is time for me to take the next step with my suspension and install sway bars. First, a little background: - '95 M3 - Camber plates (3-degrees fr/2-degrees rr) - Koni adjustables with H&R sports I'm trying to dial-out that last bit of push at the limits, but I don't want to make the car _too_ stiff. I'm wary of going to the Eibach's as I already have a hard time maintaining traction over bumpy surfaces with my current set-up. The previous owner of my car (who set-up the suspension in the first place) recommended Dinan sways. I'd love feedback from folks using these sways with a similar suspension. Cheap dealers for these parts would be great too. On a related note, the Dinan set-up is 22mm fr/22mm rr. It would seem that you could potentially not run the Dinan front and just run the stiffer Dinan rear. Is the length of the Dinan front bar any different (at it's softest setting) then the factory bar? If not, what would be the advantage of installing it? Any advice around set-up would be appreciated. Thanks. -p ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com

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#9. Re: Radio code - from Joe Tan
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 15:41:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Radio code Vince, Every radio code is unique for each unit for thief prevention. however you do not need to remove your radio to get the serial#. The dealer should know this but they are too lazy when doing free favours. To get the serial# -Turn off the car -Hold the M buttom -Turn your ignition key one click -Keep the buttons hold for 10 sec -The serial# of your radio will appear on the screen -Write them down and bring it to the dealer and they'll be able to find your code in their database. Good luck, Joe. > Anyone have the code for a 98 AM/FM cassette? I had the radio out last > night and my dealer tells me I have to bring it in or pull the radio > back out and call them with the serial #. > You can e-mail me privately. > THANKS > Vince Throckmorton > 98 M3-4 > vince@rjthrockmorton.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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#10. RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 18:13:23 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <mel.silva@pdq.net> Subject: RE: UUC bar (was WTB strut tower bar) Does JTD still offer a Strut Tower Bar? It's not listed on their website. >Extraneous stuff deleted.

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