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#1. Re: Cracked Rear Shock Tower - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:51:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cracked Rear Shock Tower on 7/16/01 3:35 PM, Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> wrote: > What year did the M3's come with reinforced front strut mounts? The 96 and later M3 cars came with a separate stamped steel reinforcing plate that fits on top of the front strut bearing plate. This can easily be retrofitted to the 95 or to non-M E36 cars without disassembling the strut or fully removing it from the car. P/N is 31 31 2 489 795, cost a few $ each, cheap. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: Koni shocks question - not about adjusting! - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:55:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni shocks question - not about adjusting! on 7/16/01 3:35 PM, Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> wrote: > I have finally decided to go with Eibach's and SA Koni's... I have one > question though. > While my mechanic says that he spoke with Koni and all you need to do is > replace the inserts, I've always thought (based on this list) that Koni SA > shocks required "rebuilding" the front struts. Doesn't the rebuild require > cutting the struts? Could it be that to him the rebuild is as straightforward > as inserting them simply? Who is right here...? Juan, You're right and your mechanic need to take a refresher course. The E36 doesn't have a removable strut insert: the struts are welded closed. The replacement Konis come as sealed inserts, and first you have to cut-and-gut the stock struts, then re-use their casings. I'm sending you the how-to instructions for this off-Digest. Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: Race Gas - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 17:00:36 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Race Gas We get ours from a local Sunoco distributor. Anyone can buy it there, $3.50 for 104, $2.90 for 100. I think most supercharger systems rely on the knock sensors built into these engines to control detonation so it should help - knock sensor not retarding the time = more power. James ----------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance BMWCCA/SCCA Racecar Rental Genuine OEM and Used BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ----------------------------------------------------------- "Stop Lights Timed For 35mph Are Also Timed For 70mph."
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Cracked Rear Shock Tower - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 17:23:29 -0400 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Cracked Rear Shock Tower peterg wrote: >One thing to note -- this repair is sometimes covered by insurance. Pete's >was. They have to chop off the top of the tower an weld a new one on. >Very pricey. Hadn't really thought about that, but I don't want to use factory parts if the factory parts aren't up to the task. I'll have the shop come up with something that will likely be both stronger and less expensive... might not look as pretty, but unless you tear apart the trunk you don't see the shock towers in back. The location is fairly easily accessible and I'll probably roll the car in the shop and take apart the trunk for them. All they have to do is cut and weld. Unlike the mounts for the toe bushing on the trailing arm, this repair does not involve tearing apart the interior of the car. I could see why the dealer might charge a lot for it, but what I plan on having done should be less than my insurance deductible. -- Ron Katona
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#5. [E36M3] UUC Sway Barbarians Installation Resources Wanted - from Vadim Dubinsky
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 14:26:22 -0700 From: "Vadim Dubinsky" <dubinsky@cyberdude.com> Subject: [E36M3] UUC Sway Barbarians Installation Resources Wanted I'm a little behind the curve on mod-ing my M3. I'm sure many of you have already installed a set of UUC Sway Barbarians on your cars and I was hoping to tap your collective wisdom for tips and advice before I start on my car. If anyone has done or seen a write-up on the web, I would be most grateful if you could forward me the link(s). I've seen what's on UUC site, but there isn't much there. I would also = appreciate any related advice that you'd be willing to share. =20 TIA, =20 Vadim
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#6. OT: Looking for E46 M3 or E39 M5 FS in Cali - from Jay L.
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 14:28:50 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jay L." <joong@yahoo.com> Subject: OT: Looking for E46 M3 or E39 M5 FS in Cali Sorry for the off topic message, but I am looking to buy a 2001 M3 or 2000/2001 M5 for MSRP or better. Silver or blue is preferred and within California. If anyone knows of any for sale, please email me. Thanks Jay __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#7. RE: Microfilter labor included in Inspection I or not? - from Tobin Finley
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 18:10:53 -0400 From: Tobin Finley <tfinley@fdt.net> Subject: RE: Microfilter labor included in Inspection I or not? Just got my car back from Inspection I. Considering the prices other list members are quoting, I'm quite happy with my dealer (All Pro Imports in Gainesville, FL). The inspection, including microfilter change, cost $220. I did provide the Mobil 1 and received a 10% BMWCCA discount. Tobin '95 M3, sharked, Euro HFM intake with ECIS cone, X-brace, etc...
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#8. Re: [E36M3] OT: Best price for G Tech - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 16:11:20 -0600 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Best price for G Tech >Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 14:02:09 -0600 >From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> >Subject: OT: Best price for G Tech > >BMP has it for 10% off currently. Some at auction on ebay. > >Has the product changed in the recent couple years? Some of the used >ones on ebay are obviously not new. > >Respond privately if you wish. > >TIA, >George >-- >=========================== >georgercarrjr@earthlink.net > I will summarize and post to those interested. There seems to be a "new" model the G-Tech Pro which according to the 1-800 line is only a couple months old. Their web site claims it costs $40 to update an old to the new. The current ebay prices end up being no better (and may be worse) than buying a new one at BMP even if the ebay version is the new one. George -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#9. Impressions and Installation for H&R c/o (long) - from Steven Tom
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:10:51 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Impressions and Installation for H&R c/o (long) I just finished installing my H&R c/o this weekend and thought I would share my thoughts, gotchas for the installation and impressions about the c/o's. The job went very smooth with a great thanks to Jim Powell for letting me use his car lift and air tools. I have to say it's very nice to have a lift in your garage. Thanks again to Jim for letting me use your garage and tools. There are a couple of items that help make the installation go smoothly; Spring compressors - harbor freight has them for $10, I got them on sale for $8. Check them out on the web. Snap ring pliers - used to mount the rear spring adjusters, $2 @ harbor freight. Spanner wrench - to adjust c/o, H&R ran out of these and they will be sending me out one. Tape measure - be sure to record your before measurements for FYI 16mm Cone wrench - you can get this at any bike shop. You will need it for the front sway bar. 22mm socket spare - If you don't have air tools, the top of the stock suspension is 22mm. You'll need to grind down flats on the socket and then use another wrench to get them off. This is where air tools come in handy. 18mm socket spare - I believe this is what comes stock on the H&R but you should double check. You will have to grind down edges on this as well. Loctite - for the suspension bolts. Of course you will also need the other general sockets and wrenches. I believe they were 12, 13, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22mm. These are NOT complete instructions, just general comments to help make things clearer for anyone else doing the job. The Rear Suspension: 1) The most difficult part was removing the rear interior. 2) Remove the lower shock bolt 3) Remove the two upper shock bolts and remove the shock 4) It's best to do both sides at the same time so you don't have the spring pressure from the sway bar. 5) Step on the rear hub and pull the rear spring out. I thought this was going to be a big deal but it only took about 15 lbs of force on the rear hub. 6) Install the lower spring height adjusters. You will need the snap ring pliers here. I recommend that you add some grease to the threads so they don't gall and weld themselves together from the friction. 7) Put the H&R rear spring in. I also used the rubber spring hat that comes on the stock spring. I figured that the little bit of rubber added would help isolate the road noise. 8) Transfer the rear shock mount and washers from the old shock to the new shock 9) Install the upper two bolts first and then the lower. You will need to jack up the rear suspension arm to get the bolt holes to line up on the lower bolt. 10) Torque everything to the proper settings. Done Front Suspension: 1) Unbolt the sway bar links on both sides. You will need the 16mm cone wrench here. 2) Remove the brake lines, brakes sensors abs sensor wire from the shock. 3) Remove the 3 knuckle bolts connecting the shock to the steering knuckle. 4) You do not have to remove any brake components but after removing the 3 bolts you should support the knuckle/brake/rotor assembly with a coat hanger. This is important to do because you can damage the brake hose. I actually supported this through the upper hole on the knuckle to the holes in the lower control arm. This will become clear when installing because there's not to many places to support this knuckle. 5) Hold the strut assembly and remove the upper 3 strut bolts. This will release the entire assembly. Be careful not to crimp/rip/tear any of the wires surrounding the shock when removing. 6) Use a spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the top nut. The assembly should come apart. 7) You have to reuse all the washers above the spring hat. This is a good time to reverse strut hats to provide more camber. 8) Assemble the washers/strut hat to the new H&R c/o. 9) Install in reverse order. The installation went very smoothly, from car up to car down was 3 hours. The main problem areas that will arise without the use of air tool is disassembling the struts. I would recommend spending $150 and buy an electric impact gun at Home Depot. It will more than save in the PIA part of grinding sockets and spinning on the spring compressors. Impressions: I adjusted the front lower 3/4" and the rear lower 1/2". I know there are a couple of people that like slamo low but this is enough for me right now not only that I think it's cool to have a "sleeper". The rear is right on the tire and the front is about an 1" above the tire. The front looks lower than it is because the added camber from switching the strut hats. I will be getting the car corner weighted which will again change the ride height of the car so it doesn't plan on staying the same. The ride is firm but not jarring. You can definitely tell the stiffer springs and added damping. The car is much more planted and controlled. There is still medium amount of lean to the car because I have stock sway bars (not for long) but the lean is much more controlled. There is no longer an undamped wavery/wallowy feel to the suspension when taking long corners. The car is a little more nervous over bumps but not excessively so though I would not want to drive this on any fireroads, not that I do. My girlfriend actually couldn't tell the difference in ride but she's not into cars. For me, this adds the perfect compromise to being not too stiff and not too soft. I will be able to provide more feedback after the autox on July 28th. Hope to see all the San Diegans out there. If you have any questions about installation please let me know. steve '96 M3 x-brace, porterfield r4s, H&R c/o's, apex short shifter, UUC clutch stop soon to get Ground Control rear trailing arm bushings and Eibach Sway bars.
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#10. [E36M3] RE: Microfilter labor included in Inspection I or not? - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 16:13:24 -0600 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: [E36M3] RE: Microfilter labor included in Inspection I or not? Per my owner manual it is included in the Inspection I for my 98 M3/4. George -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net