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#1. RE: [E36M3] Cost for inspection II @ 38,000 miles - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 11:45:02 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jbassett@geysernetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Cost for inspection II @ 38,000 miles > Just wanted to get a quick idea of what I'll be > looking at for Inspection II at around 38,000 miles. I > realize I could go to an independant or do it > myself... Just my 2 cents, but you'd probably get more responses, and more *relevant* responses if you told us where you live. Here in the SF Bay Area, a dealer will probably be in the $800-$900 range, but that's mostly a guess as I haven't taken my car to a dealer since it went out of warranty. A good independent should be around $500 or so (I just had my favorite independent perform an Inspection II on my car, and that's about what it was, subtracting out the other work that was done). So, there's some info. Whether it helps or not <shrug>. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#2. Cost for inspection II @ 38,000 miles - from Thomas Salva
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:14:34 -0500 From: Thomas Salva <tsalva@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Cost for inspection II @ 38,000 miles Simon, I just had the Inspection II done on my 98 M3/4 about 2 months ago in Detroit. Cost was $600. incl. the 10% CCA discount. Thomas Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 19:51:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Simon Lloyd <simon_j_lloyd@yahoo.com> Subject: Cost for inspection II @ 38,000 miles Just wanted to get a quick idea of what I'll be looking at for Inspection II at around 38,000 miles. I realize I could go to an independant or do it myself... Thanks. Simon 99 Cosmos
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Alignment Specifications Question - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 12:17:01 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alignment Specifications Question Can anyone explain why it always seems to be such a significant difference in camber from left to right when the strut hats are swapped, and is there anyway to get them more even (special re-installation secrets)? Jonathan L. >From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com > >bushings. Here is what I did > >Before Left Right >Camber -2.25 -3 > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#4.Tail lights for E36 Sedan - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:40:32 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: <WTB> Tail lights for E36 Sedan Hi everybody, I'm in need of a pair of tail lights for a '94 325i sedan (i.e. 4 door) that I just picked up. I'm hoping somebody has replaced theirs with clear corners and has some for sale. Please reply off-digest. Thanks, Shane Kleinpeter '96 M3 '94 325i <--- Brand spankin' new track car (ok, to me anyway)
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#5. Re: Lowering the front - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:18:17 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Lowering the front on 7/19/01 1:45 PM, bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> wrote: > I was looking through the BMP catalog and noticed a > kit that includes two upper spring perches for E36 > cars. These are designed to lower the car about 10mm, > but it is not for an M3. Does any one know the reason > they will not work on the M3. Tony, The non-M E36 cars have different strut bearing hats than either the 95 M3 or the 96+ M3. The non-M hats actually raise the car a bit compared to the M parts. And both designs of M hat have offset bearings, unlike the standard part. This is only supposition, but maybe the BMP spring perches would physically interfere with the M hat in some way. Anyone got a better answer, or even a better guess? Neil 96 M3
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#6. [E36M3] Sticking points - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 13:19:11 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Sticking points I've been meaning to inquire about this for days now, but by the time I get to my desk, I forget about it. ;) I've been noticing a sticking point for two different items in my car ('99 M3). The first is the gas pedal. It was only apparent in the morning, but now it also occurs a bit after work... anytime the car sits for 9 hours or more. The gas pedal seems to be sticking at top (i.e. in the zero throttle position, NOT full throttle). It's back to normal within the first 10 minutes/10 miles, but it can be a little scary when I let off the throttle before my on ramp, and then have to give a little extra pressure to get the pedal to move. It's a pretty tight corner to suddenly be dealing with twice the amount of throttle that you want. ;) It's noticeable between shifts as well, but not a "problem." It seems to be the throttle lever itself (up high), and not the pedal (floor). Before I carelessly start spraying WD-40 up there, is there a better solution? The second sticking point seems to be my shift lever (UUC Comp Evo w/ERK). Again, this only seems to happen after the cars been sitting for a while, it goes away within 10 minutes/miles, it only seems to occur late in the day (when it's warm out) and it's only third gear... or so it seems thus far. As I leave work, there's mostly semi-busy surface streets until I hit the freeway so I usually stay in third until the main road on which I can shift to forth... Only problem is, it's starting to take some extra force to pull it out of third. Force isn't needed for the whole gear distance, but just the initial pull. Any ideas? Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Sticking points - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 13:34:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sticking points Didn't someone on the list recently get a stock throttle at WOT??!?!? It caused him to inflict some body damage and stuff. Bora? There were supposedly some throttle cable clips that you can install (don't remember if it only pertained to cars with cruise control), but I don't remember if that was an E30 only thing. Chester --- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 13:19:11 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Sticking points > > I've been meaning to inquire about this for days now, but by the time I get > to my desk, I forget about it. ;) I've been noticing a sticking point for > two different items in my car ('99 M3). > > The first is the gas pedal. It was only apparent in the morning, but now it > also occurs a bit after work... anytime the car sits for 9 hours or more. > The gas pedal seems to be sticking at top (i.e. in the zero throttle > position, NOT full throttle). It's back to normal within the first 10 > minutes/10 miles, but it can be a little scary when I let off the throttle > before my on ramp, and then have to give a little extra pressure to get the > pedal to move. It's a pretty tight corner to suddenly be dealing with twice > the amount of throttle that you want. ;) It's noticeable between shifts as > well, but not a "problem." It seems to be the throttle lever itself (up > high), and not the pedal (floor). Before I carelessly start spraying WD-40 > up there, is there a better solution? > > The second sticking point seems to be my shift lever (UUC Comp Evo w/ERK). > Again, this only seems to happen after the cars been sitting for a while, it > goes away within 10 minutes/miles, it only seems to occur late in the day > (when it's warm out) and it's only third gear... or so it seems thus far. > As I leave work, there's mostly semi-busy surface streets until I hit the > freeway so I usually stay in third until the main road on which I can shift > to forth... Only problem is, it's starting to take some extra force to pull > it out of third. Force isn't needed for the whole gear distance, but just > the initial pull. Any ideas? > > Jonathan L. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: Alignment Specifications Question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:50:15 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Alignment Specifications Question on 7/19/01 1:45 PM, Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> wrote: > I just got my car aligned today after installing the H&R c/o. I just got > the front aligned because I plan on installing the rear GC trailing arm > bushings. Here is what I did > > Before Left Right > Camber -2.25 -3 > Caster 9.75 9.5 > Toe +3/8" > > After > Toe -1/8" > > The rest of the stuff is not adjustable. The caster seems to be way more > than what I've seen in other posts. What does this affect? I'd have to wonder about that caster measurement. You don't say what year your car is, but the specs are: 95 M3 6 deg 38 min +/- 30 min 96+ M3 7 deg 35 min +/- 30 min You may gain a little caster angle as the strut compresses, so the amount you have the car lowered will play a part too. But gaining 2+ degrees seems like a lot. Caster is the inclination of the wheel's steering axis from vertical, and generates trail, which is the distance of the tire's contact patch behind where the virtual steering axis intersects the road. Caster on a strut suspension is really only adjustable by moving the bottom or top locations of the strut (e.g. camber plates allow moving the top location). Caster gives the steering its self-centering effect and provides road feel to you via the steering wheel. Like sex and drugs, more caster is only good up to a point <g> Neil 96 M3
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#9. 97 Stock fuel Injectors - from Josh
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 14:50:32 -0600 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: 97 Stock fuel Injectors At 04:25 PM 7/18/01 -0500, you wrote: >-------------------- 5 -------------------- >Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 12:14:09 -0700 >From: Todd Ogi <TOgi@etimecapital.com> >Subject: 97 Stock fuel Injectors > >I wanted to know if anyone on the board has experience with this: > >I have a 10/95 build date M3 with the TMS Euro HFM package on there as well >as a ss exhaust. I want to put >in the stock fuel injectors from the 3.2L engine for my 3.0L engine (the >21.5lb fuel injectors >vs. the 17.5lb fuel injectors) to see if that will work in concert with my >HFM stuff. I guess to some extent it depends on your definition of "work in concert". I have been to some pretty bad concerts in my time so I realize that the answer can often times boil down to "different strokes for different folks". Therefore, I will try to keep it purely scientific and simple. NO! NO! NO! however I say no with one caveat .......... If you are the kind of person that can't take simple or common sense advice then the answer would be Yes! Yes! Yes! In fact just go ahead and throw some goat pee in the tank along with that "warm thrill of confusion" (thanks Mr. R. Waters) modification mentality. >I called around, Turner said that it won't work And Turner was right and definitely looking out for your best interest. >, AA said they could make a >custom >chip but it'd be 400 bucks. Don't bother with an AA "knock-off-engineering" chip. Just by the real chip from the guy who originated the Euro HFM, Inj, Intake stuff in the first place e.g. Jim C. However, if you call me looking for it (yes I do have the injectors and chip in stock and yes both parts have a profit margin) be ready for me to steer you clear of the it unless you are a racer who spends all of his time at the track (minor improvement in injector life span via reduction in duty cycle and temp) or you are going to buy it in conjunction with a camshaft kit (needs more fuel than the stock injector can provide). As much as I like making money, I don't like making it at the expense of selling unnecessary upgrades. >Dynospot Racing said that I don't need to >reprogram the chip >because the chip does more timing of duty cycles vs. figuring out what lb >fuel injectors >I have...it's just an on/off switch for fuel. 2 things 1. Honestly, I don't know the boys at Dynospot Racing. 2. I know how things can be accidentally mis-understood, mis-conveyed, or mis-regurgitated so if the above is incorrect then you can ignore my next comment. If the above statement is a true representation of what Dynospot said then I think it is time for us to break out Monty Python's The Holy Grail DVD and revisit the scenes where the brilliant villagers where scientifically trying to figure out how to test for witches. Without breaking out the DVD a couple of choice comedic lines come to memory Village leader: "What else floats other than wood?" Villager: "Very small rocks" "?" Anyway, Injectors are responsible for issuing fuel to the motor in a measured quantity at a specific time and without getting too technical, size does matter. >So my question is has anyone done this and am I risking messing anything up >in my engine? The important question is/should be: Q: "do I need this modification or will this modification improve my vehicles performance"? A: That depends on what hardware is installed on your vehicle and how you use your vehicle. More importantly it depends on need as in does your engine flow enough air to require the additional level of fuel provided by a larger fuel injector. If you have an E36 3.0l M3 with a Euro HFM intake, chip, and muffler, you don't need the larger injectors. If you have the above car plus camshafts or supercharger or use the car for racing then you might need or gain benefit from use of a higher flow fuel injectors. And you will only gain that benefit if your car has a properly tuned chip that has been fully calibrated to your injectors. >Who's right, do I actually need a chip to take advantage of the extra fuel >or will the JimC that's >included with the HFM work with the injectors? Think of it this way AS FAR AS POWER IS CONCERNED FUEL IS JUST STINKY WET STUFF WITHOUT THE RIGHT RATIO OF OXYGEN. Tuning by definition is a balancing act that requires thoughtful planning and careful analysis of test results. Installing larger fuel injectors without planning or testing aka "Tuning" is wasting money/effort/time. Don't get me wrong, your car will run with the larger injectors with the wrong chip and to some extent it may be able to adapt somewhat to the differences, but your car most certainly won't make the same power and reliability as a car that is using the proper chip for the standard injectors or a larger injector with matched calibration. Either way, if you don't have a way to give the car more air you will have zero gain from more fuel. In fact fuel mixtures richer than 12.5 to 1 will start loosing power and begin adding carbon deposits to the valves and pistons. >I got this idea from the last issue of european car where AA had their >540HFM/intake/chip/injector >package tested. I'm still holding my nose >The guy at dynospot (very knowledgeable) said that I shouldn't need a chip >at all. He may be very knowledgeable and like I said above he may also be mis-understood. However, if he is suggesting that you can gain a performance benefit by changing out your fuel injectors without appropriate recalibration of the chip to match the injectors then he is simply wrong. Regards, Josh MacMurray Eurosport Your source for Jim Conforti / Landshark products Shark Injectors and Shark Intake Systems Phone 801 886 2185 fax 801 886 2189 www.eurosporthighperformance.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Alignment Specifications Question - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 14:11:25 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Alignment Specifications Question Chances are I think the mechanic measured the caster wrong or probably meant 6 instead of 9 or did some kind of new math. I lowered the car 3/4 front and 1/2 rear so I don't think the physical lowering affected much in the way of camber/caster/toe. steve >I'd have to wonder about that caster measurement. You don't say what year >your car is, but the specs are: > >95 M3 6 deg 38 min +/- 30 min >96+ M3 7 deg 35 min +/- 30 min > >You may gain a little caster angle as the strut compresses, so the amount >you have the car lowered will play a part too. But gaining 2+ degrees seems >like a lot.