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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Alignment Specifications Question - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 14:28:32 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Alignment Specifications Question Also forgot to say..... I didn't measure or align the back because I plan on putting the GC trailing arm bushings in. I don't want to have to align the rear twice. steve At 04:15 PM 7/19/01 -0500, Steven Tom wrote: >Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 14:11:25 -0700 >From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Alignment Specifications Question > >Chances are I think the mechanic measured the caster wrong or probably >meant 6 instead of 9 or did some kind of new math. I lowered the car 3/4 >front and 1/2 rear so I don't think the physical lowering affected much in >the way of camber/caster/toe. > >steve > > > >>I'd have to wonder about that caster measurement. You don't say what year >>your car is, but the specs are: >> >>95 M3 6 deg 38 min +/- 30 min >>96+ M3 7 deg 35 min +/- 30 min >> >>You may gain a little caster angle as the strut compresses, so the amount >>you have the car lowered will play a part too. But gaining 2+ degrees seems >>like a lot. > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the >message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* > >
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#2. Question about rear trailing arm bushing removal - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:09:09 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Question about rear trailing arm bushing removal As most of you are sick about hearing my suspension questions, here's another! I plan on removing the rear trailing arm bushing by cutting around the inner steel sleeve and then cutting the outer ring and sliding the assembly out. Most people talk about using a Sawzall to remove the inner steel sleeve. Is there a reason why I just couldn't use a hack saw or something along those lines. I assume this is just rubber I'm cutting around. Is there something I'm not seeing here? The reason behind this question is I don't want to buy a Sawzall. steve
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#3. re:Tires Marks: Yellow, Red, Green=GO !! - from Kendall Broadbent
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 17:35:31 -0500 From: Kendall Broadbent <kbsport@netzero.net> Subject: re:Tires Marks: Yellow, Red, Green=GO !! Greg, thanks for the Yoko Tire Dot Info.. More info from Yokohama @ http://www.yokohamatire.com/04a5a.html Heres the abbreviated version: To facilitate proper balancing, Yokohama places red and yellow marks on the sidewalls of its tires to enable the best possible match-mounting of the tire/wheel assembly. There are two methods of match-mounting Yokohama tires to wheel assemblies using these red or yellow marks: Uniformity (red mark) Weight (yellow mark) Uniformity Method When performing uniformity match-mounting, the red mark on the tire, indicating the point of maximum radial force variation, should be aligned with the wheel assembly's point of minimum radial run-out, which is generally indicated by a colored dot or a notch somewhere on the wheel assembly.... Weight Method When performing weight match-mounting, the yellow mark on the tire, indicating the point of lightest weight, should be aligned with the valve stem on the wheel assembly, ..... The Hunter Home Site was also very informative, Thanks to Bob Stoll. 95 M3 Stock Injectors !! Crummy local Tire Service & Crummy stock electronics NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net
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#4. Hamann PG2 wheels and tires - from Rustysells@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 19:56:06 EDT From: Rustysells@aol.com Subject: Hamann PG2 wheels and tires I own a 1997 M3 Sedan with plans to add these wheels (18") and tires. I'd like to know if anyone's had any experience as to what size wheel (front and rear) and tire (front and rear) I should use? (I especially want to know about wheel spacers - if required.) Also, please note, I recently lowered the car with the Bilstein shock/H&R spring set-up offered by BMP. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!
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#5. FS: Full set of black BMW M3 Logo Floor Mats - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 20:31:22 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: FS: Full set of black BMW M3 Logo Floor Mats No visible wear at all (less than 5 months old). M3 logo on front mats only, rear mats are plain. Originally $130+. Located in Massachusetts.
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#6. FS: Full set of black BMW M3 Logo Floor Mats, $80+shipping - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 20:33:18 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: FS: Full set of black BMW M3 Logo Floor Mats, $80+shipping Sorry forgot the price... No visible wear at all (less than 5 months old). M3 logo on front mats only, rear mats are plain. Originally $130+. Save $50, $80 + shipping. Located in Massachusetts.
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#7. FS: TMS/Conforti Performance Chip for pre-1/95 M3s - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 20:34:43 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: FS: TMS/Conforti Performance Chip for pre-1/95 M3s Part Number T506-300. Includes documentation. Save $100, $150+free shipping.
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#8. : Cost for inspection II @ 38,000 miles - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 22:27:49 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: : Cost for inspection II @ 38,000 miles I called some neighboring dealers, and they all seem to be in the $600 - $800 ballpark...Obviously, independants would be considerably cheaper. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 30K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads; Steiger SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#9. Alignment Specification Question - from Robert Biggs
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 21:43:38 -0500 From: "Robert Biggs" <parm3@home.com> Subject: Alignment Specification Question > On Thu, 19 Jul 2001 Neil Maller wrote:> > Like sex and drugs, more caster is only good up to a point <g> Neil. Several questions. What happens if you have too much sex? And at what point do more drugs trip you over the line from good to bad? This is strictly an academic question because, frankly, I don't think I'm at risk for either. In any case, you can tell me the next time I see you at Putnam . Anxiously awaiting your reply I remain Bob Biggs Just Bob Racing
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Question about rear trailing arm bushing removal - from NickG
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 22:48:18 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Question about rear trailing arm bushing removal Trying to slice through the rubber bushing with a little, slow hacksaw blade will take forever. After I drilled out the center metal sleeve, I used a Ford tool (Big F-ing Hammer) and a chisel to cut through and tear apart the bushing's outer sleeve. Nick > As most of you are sick about hearing my suspension questions, here's > another! I plan on removing the rear trailing arm bushing by cutting > around the inner steel sleeve and then cutting the outer ring and sliding > the assembly out. Most people talk about using a Sawzall to remove the > inner steel sleeve. Is there a reason why I just couldn't use a hack saw > or something along those lines. I assume this is just rubber I'm cutting > around. Is there something I'm not seeing here? The reason behind this > question is I don't want to buy a Sawzall. > > steve