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#1. Re: Help with part numbers - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 08:36:13 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Help with part numbers on 7/26/01 4:32 PM, "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> wrote: > In the process of swapping some shocks on my Moms 93 325 with what I thought > was supposed to be M3 shocks. If anyone could give me the part number for the > 95 M3 rear shocks, it would be wonderful. 95 M3 rear shocks: P/N 33 52 2 227 794. Neil 96 M3
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Simracing and cargo nets - from David Ripton
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 10:40:46 -0400 From: David Ripton <dripton@wizard.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Simracing and cargo nets Jim Bassett <jbassett@geysernetworks.com> wrote: > > 2. Why are there only three dedicated anchor points in the > > trunk instead > > of four? Is there a good place for the fourth hook that I'm missing? > > There are 4 in my car. Which one do you appear not to have? It may have > broken off? I'm missing the right front one. The funny part is that when I look at the spot where it should be, there's no sign that there was ever anything there. So if it broke off, it did so very cleanly. Or perhaps the end-of-shift whistle blew 3/4 through the Ankorpointensekuren assembly phase. Another key thing to add to the M3 pre-purchase inspection list. Time to ask the friendly parts guy what a trunk net anchor point costs. Bet they don't get requests for that one every day. -- David Ripton dripton@wizard.net
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#3. Rear suspension "bang!" and unethical service dept (long) - from Ed Tang
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 08:18:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear suspension "bang!" and unethical service dept (long) Hello all, The suspension woes have gone. Unfortunately, a bad outcome has come out of this. It begins in April when I was sideswiped by a Honda. I brought it to my dealer who has a body repair shop. I took it to Patrick Collision Center. They did a great job and the service was exemplary. However, at the service dept, a new rack and pinion had to be installed and the rest of the suspension removed and inspected. To make a long story short, the body shop was responsible for straightening out the chassis and they send it to service for the suspension and alignment issues. My car was delayed b/c basically, service screwed up the suspension. My collision service advisor was not happy with the way the car rode so he took it back rather than give it back to me. Service went back to him and said the body work was flawed. The body shop then put it back on the computerized rack and everything was up to spec. He sent it back to Service and told them. Turns out that the rack and pinion gear was installed incorrectly and broke. So I had to wait another few days for it to be fixed. I got the car back in June. My collision service advisor apoligized and I told him it was alright. As long as he was looking out for me and not giving me the car prematurely if it's not 100%. He reassured me that if I ever had to come back in for something, they would outsource the Service dept for me. Earlier this week there was a clunk in the rear. I took it in yesterday. They said b/c I had Bilsteins and upgraded RSM's that they would not honor the warranty on their service. I said that it was part of a collision repair that they did last month. Regardless of whether they are aftermarket, I told State Farm that I would be using Patrick to repair my vehicle. If they will not warranty their work on aftermarket parts, they should have told State Farm to get someone else to do it. By accepting the work from State Farm, they are saying that they are going to stand by their work, OEM or aftermarket. And I expected them to honor it. So basically, the service advisor told me that the shocks went bad (bogus b/c I had them installed 2 weeks before the accident) and that the factory shock mounts won't fit the Bilsteins. Another bogus story. Then he says that I will have to replace the rear suspension with the factory shocks and springs for $600. He also said that the factory shocks are better than the Bilsteins. I said,"Wouln't the balance be off if I replaced only the back?" "Oh, let me price the fronts out for you." I couldn't believe he treated me like I would get suckered into buying a whole new suspension. Also, remember the intermittent "check coolant level" light. I asked them to check that and they said the sensor is bad. Just as I suspected. He said it would be $180 plus labor. I asked about the warranty and he said it wouldn't cover it because it doesn't have a 'manual' switch. I have no idea why having a manual switch would exclude it from warranty. I can understand where wearable items aren't covered by warranty like the clutch, tires and brake pads. But a sensor is not a wear item. I refused service and they charged me with a $40 inspection fee which is bogus. They did the work under the collision repairs. I took the car to my independent. We took apart the rear and it looks like when they re-installed the rear shocks, they installed the washer in the wrong place so the rubber mount wasn't supported by the washer. I was furious. We put on new factory mounts and the car's perfect. I'd hate to be an Oliver Stone but I think it's a ruse. I have gone through Patrick's service and they've done warranty work on my water pump, sway bar links, and a new gasket for the cylinder head. At no charge. I'm now thinking b/c of the repairs for the accident causing them a lot of grief with the body shop they have blacklisted me. My collision advisor talked to his supervisor and he gave me a call saying that they would be outsourcing service for me from there on. I know for a fact the service department lost a lot of labor hours and a new rack and pinion when they worked on my car. I believe they are trying to recover the loss they may have had. Just as they did yesterday, they will hide under the veil of my having aftermarket shocks and RSM's as the excuse for not standing behind their work. And keep in mind, I could have gone to another dealership for the repairs on the accident. What disappoints me is that Patrick is one of the dealerships that supports aftermarket work on the cars. There are a lot of club racers with race prepped cars that go there. Even the Tire Rack ad shows an M3 that is sponsored by Patrick. I am too upset right now to clearly think of an effective course of action. I am ready to write a letter to the Roundel and perhaps talk to an Omsbudman. The waiting area for service has copies of the Roundel so that will be suprise reading material for the unsuspecting reader. I am more likely to try to resolve the issue with an Omsbudman before I write a letter. I had to make the repairs myself which was a simple washer location issue and a hew RSM so there is nothing to repair. That's why I'm so pissed. Any solutions would be appreciated. TIA Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
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#4. FS: Remote Keyless Transmitter - from Daniel Smith
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 09:21:09 -0700 From: Daniel Smith <dls@daniel.org> Subject: FS: Remote Keyless Transmitter Need an extra remote? I have an extra keyless remote transmitter for sale (why? well, it's embarrassing.. let's just say I showed up to the appointment to get it programmed, reached in my pocket to get one I had previously bought, and...) Note that this is just the two button alarm arm/disarm lock/unlock/panic unit, and is not a key. I vouch that it can be programmed for an E36 M3, possibly all E36's with alarms. The part # is: 82 11 1 469 448 (got one already? check the bottom for the part number) It is not programmed to any car. You will have to make an appointment with your dealer and take care of that at your own expense, etc. The price is $60. I paid $98 to get another one. If you want to offer me more, cool :-) I'll pay shipping via USPS within the states - it's a pretty small item. Email privately. thanks, Daniel -- Daniel L. Smith - dls@daniel.org - Sonoma County, CA
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#5. Fake e46m3... - from Jim Files
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 09:25:46 -0700 From: Jim Files <jfiles@alumni.ucsd.edu> Subject: Fake e46m3... Why, why, why? In the later half of my run this morning, I spotted a fake E46M3. No side gills, and an extra two doors - yes, a four door 2001 M3. Wow, that is one unique car! Why do they do this? I can understand modifying your car to look different, adding a wing, body kit, etc. On that, to each his own. Adding the markings of another car? What's the point? Just my morning rant... Jim -- h mailto:jfiles@alumni.ucsd.edu / ICQ:27292190 w mailto:jfiles@aseg.com
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#6. best service manual - from Joseph Bachman III
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 17:46:07 +0000 From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com> Subject: best service manual Hi all. I am new to the digest, so forgive me if this question has been hashed out before. What is the best manual for my '99 coupe? Is it Bentley's, Chilton's or something from BMW directly? I would prefer to have a hard copy over a CD-ROM. Thanks in advance for the help. Regards, Jay Bachman '99 estoril coupe _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#7. E36 M3 sunroof problem - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 11:34:57 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: E36 M3 sunroof problem The sunroof on my E36 M3 (9/95 build) has developed a problem that I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with. The black fabric coved panel/liner no longer is attached to the metal sliding roof panel. At times, it will not move forward when the sunroof is closed. If I then push it forward by hand and then tilt the roof up and then back down, the fabric liner will move forward and backward with the metal roof correctly. All is fine until the roof is tilted again, and then the fabric panel disconnects itself again. I know this is an akward explanation of my situation. I hope someone has had some sort of similar experience that they can share. Thanks in advance! Rob
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#8. IFG Center Caps - from ERogers005@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 21:58:15 EDT From: ERogers005@aol.com Subject: IFG Center Caps I had the same problem. Checked the loctite website and found you could break the seal with a heat gun and some chemical (toulene or something like that). Tried the heat gun to no avail and ended up drilling the caps out preferring to get the wheels balanced and buy new caps. Now I can't hail IFG in Eureka. They don't return phone calls and their website is not on line. I called Rob at UUC (where I originally purchased the wheels from) and they no longer carry IFG's. Anyone know the status of IFG? Anyone have 4 center caps they'd like to sell? Thanks Ed Rogers 95 M3 w/capless IFG's In a message dated 7/25/01 6:04:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: Date: 25 Jul 2001 16:36:14 -0700 From: Margaret Cheng <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> Subject: [E36M3] Center caps stuck on Hello all. A cautionary note for those who are gluing the center caps to their wheels to avoid losing them... Wheel Techniques couldn't get them off the second hand IFGs that I bought--that means that I can't get the wheels balanced... Anybody have any ideas on how to reverse Loc-Tite? Thanks. Margaret 97 M3, only walking shoes, no running shoes
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#9. Bridgestone RE730's Recall - from Roman
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 19:49:51 -0700 From: Roman <roman@arteuro.com> Subject: Bridgestone RE730's Recall Hi All, Have any of you heard about a recent recall on the Bridgestone RE730 tires? A collegue of mine at work said there has been a recall posted. Anyone hear about it? Cheers, Roman S.
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#10. Valentine 1 Remote Hard Wire - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 08:21:02 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Valentine 1 Remote Hard Wire I'm thinking of mounting and hard wiring my V1's remote display module in the instrument cluster area, or possibly on top of the steering column trim immediately behind the wheel. The V1 itself will be clipped on to the passenger sun visor, with power coming from the sunroof control panel. Wiring into the sunroof panel is well documented, but I'd also need to fish wiring under the headliner and down the driver side A-pillar to get to the instrument cluster area. Has anyone done this, and/or have useful advice about taking off the A-pillar trim and fishing the wire? TIA, Neil 96 M3