E36M3 #1507

Monday, July 30, 2001 15:33:10

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. FS: PF90s Front and Rear - from S Lafredo
#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear Spolier Search - from Peter Guagenti
#3. Strut brace installation - from Mark Siismets
#4. LAST DAYS! -- Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
#5. Suspension R&R Help - from Michael Turgeon
#6. Re: [E36M3] LAST DAYS! -- Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show - from Sue Kraft
#7. Alpina Rims FS - from Jason Briedis
#8. Re: Valentine 1 Remote Hard Wire - from Neil Maller
#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: GT3 - from Jason Bishop
#10. Clutch and ball bearing - from Luis Veras

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#1. FS: PF90s Front and Rear - from S Lafredo
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Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:35:24 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: FS: PF90s Front and Rear Hi, I am selling front and rear sets of E36M3 PF90s pads for $250 delivered. They are almost new and in excellent condition. The pads were used to drive from PA to Road Atlanta and one driver's school around RA. Thanks. S

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear Spolier Search - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 20:41:10 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Spolier Search on 7/28/01 12:22 PM, Clark Cook at cooksan@prodigy.net wrote: > I have a 1995 Dakar Yellow M-3, without spoiler. Does anyone have a > used one available or can recommend a rear spoiler/vendor for purchase > of a new one. Thanks Clark Cook There's a guy by the name of Eddie Valencia who sells new replicas on eBay for $139. He's a good seller. I bought a used Racing Dynamics wing from him. -p

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#3. Strut brace installation - from Mark Siismets
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Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:49:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Mark Siismets <msiismets@yahoo.com> Subject: Strut brace installation I plan to install the Motorsports Stress Bar (strut tower brace) on my '95 M3 in the near future, and would appreciate any installation tips. The bar is threaded on each end near the strut tower mounts, so I'm interested in knowing how I should properly adjust the bar. Also, does anyone know the proper torque setting for each of the bolts used to secure the bar to the strut towers? Finally, I recall reading about reinforced front strut mounts in a previous post -- would these be a recommended addition when I install the strut brace? TIA, Mark '95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

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#4. LAST DAYS! -- Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:29:31 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: LAST DAYS! -- Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show Just a reminder, tomorrow is the last day for entries into the E36 Digest/Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show! Remember, it costs you NOTHING to enter the show and you could walk away with a prize! See the original post below. Judging, by YOU, begins August 1-15. Good luck! Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . http://www.rogueengineering.com . 201-594-1505 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> To: "E36 M3 Digest" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:52 PM Subject: Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show > With Suzy's permission, I bring to you a fun "contest" for E36 M3 Digest > members...the Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show! It's as simple as it > sounds, but even easier! To enter this Virtual Car Show, you don't even > have to wash your car! > > How to Enter > Just send us up to two (2) photos of your car, and the vehicle specs/mods, > and other noteable information. From these entries, Rogue Engineering will > narrow the field down to ten (10) entries and put them on our website, and > allow you, the E36 M3 Digest members to vote on them! We'll award product > prizes and/or gift certificates to 1st, 2nd and 3rd place winners. Prizes > will be determined shortly. > > Cost to enter the Virtual Car Show is nothing, zero, nadda, zilch! > > Judging > We will accept entries up to July 31st and judging will begin immediately > after that, as we will announce the web page to go to view the cars and to > place your votes. You can vote only once as we will be collecting the votes > via email. Duplicate emails will be eliminated, in case you submit more > than once, or for another vehicle. > > To see a sample page, of what the entries will look like, go to: > > http://www.rogueengineering.com/car_show_e36/ > > Visit the page above, to see what specific information you should send to be > considered for the Virtual Car Show. > > Good luck to those who enter! > > Questions about the contest can be sent directly to me. > > Regards, > Ben Liaw > Rogue Engineering . http://www.rogueengineering.com . 201-594-1505

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#5. Suspension R&R Help - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 05:45:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: Suspension R&R Help Hi Gruppe: I have finaly assembled all the parts I believe are necessary to replace the suspension in my 95 M3. Turner I-Stock custom valved Bilsteins, H&R Gruppe G Springs, Ground Control RSM and sway bar links are going on the car. I am looking for a site with instructions or if anybody a text write up of the procedure for the R&R. Any input on personal experiences would also be appreciated regarding items to look out for or to pay special attention to. Thanks, Mike Turgeon 95 M3 Avus BMW CCA 166866 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

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#6. Re: [E36M3] LAST DAYS! -- Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:16:57 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] LAST DAYS! -- Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show Ben, I hope you are being flooded with entries -- any hint on what the prizes will be? A new E46 M3 perhaps? :) Suzy Monday chuckle - Cuban SUV http://www.bmw-m.net/Humor/Cubansuv.htm Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering wrote: > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:29:31 -0400 > From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> > Subject: LAST DAYS! -- Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show > > Just a reminder, tomorrow is the last day for entries into the E36 > Digest/Rogue Engineering Virtual Car Show! Remember, it costs you NOTHING > to enter the show and you could walk away with a prize! > > See the original post below. Judging, by YOU, begins August 1-15. > > Good luck! > > Regards, > Ben Liaw > Rogue Engineering . http://www.rogueengineering.com . 201-594-1505

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#7. Alpina Rims FS - from Jason Briedis
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Date: 30 Jul 2001 07:46:23 MST From: Jason Briedis <jbriedis@usa.net> Subject: Alpina Rims FS Selling Aplina Softline 18x8 Rims with Tires Rims are in PERECT condition. No bends, no scratches, no curb rash. Will fit any E36 M3 or 325 1992 - 1999. No spacers are needed, they fit without rubbing. See pictures and details at http://www.e30m3info.com/wheels_fs.htm. $1250 plus shipping. -Jason

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#8. Re: Valentine 1 Remote Hard Wire - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:13:50 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Valentine 1 Remote Hard Wire David, Thanks for the info. Neil 96 M3 on 7/29/01 10:22 PM, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 15:38:19 -0400 > From: David Ripton <dripton@wizard.net> > Subject: Re: Valentine 1 Remote Hard Wire > > Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > >> I'm thinking of mounting and hard wiring my V1's remote display module in >> the instrument cluster area, or possibly on top of the steering column trim >> immediately behind the wheel. The V1 itself will be clipped on to the >> passenger sun visor, with power coming from the sunroof control panel. >> >> Wiring into the sunroof panel is well documented, but I'd also need to fish >> wiring under the headliner and down the driver side A-pillar to get to the >> instrument cluster area. >> >> Has anyone done this, and/or have useful advice about taking off the >> A-pillar trim and fishing the wire? > > I did a low-effort install without removing any trim, and it looks okay. > You might want to try the easy way first and then proceed to take more > things apart if it's not neat enough for you. > > I had the wire come out through the driver's side visor light hole, and go > across the headliner to the top of the A-pillar. So there are a couple of > inches of wire visible there. If the wire matches the headliner color it's > not obvious. > > The fit between the A-pillar trim and the windshield is loose enough that > you can wedge a straight phone cord in there easily without actually taking > off the trim. > > At the bottom of the windshield, you can then continue to wedge the phone > cord between the A-pillar and the edge of the dash for a few inches. > Again, you can do this without removing the trim. Mine then drops straight > down on the left side of the dash just inside the front of the door, so the > wire is visible (but not obvious) with the door open. > > I fished the wire along the underside of the dash (zip-tied in place), and > then up the seam of two trim pieces to the right of the steering column. I > removed one screw (visible a couple of inches away from the ignition > switch) to loosen the seam so I could get the wire in there, but didn't > actually remove either piece. My remote display is Silly Puttied to the > dash just beside the ignition switch, as I considered stealth more > important than optimum display visibility. (I can see it fine between the > right-side steering wheel spokes with the wheel straight, but not with it > turned.) But the same technique would work for a display mounted on top of > the steering column or in front of the instrument cluster. (There isn't an > equally usable seam to the left of the steering column, so unless you want > to take the dash apart I think going around the right side of the steering > column makes sense, even though it's a longer run.) > > -- > David Ripton dripton@wizard.net

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: GT3 - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:48:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: GT3 Chris, I heard from a friend that GPL has force feedback support now. You go to the web site and download a patch. Then you add an entry to some ini file to turn it on. Jason On Wed, 25 Jul 2001, Chris Teague wrote: > Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 20:19:34 -0700 > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: GT3 > > by side racing is great fun. I wish Grand Prix Legends > had the force feedback, and that the Viper was the > PTG M3 from Sports Car GT. > > Chris >

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#10. Clutch and ball bearing - from Luis Veras
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:24:05 -0400 From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> Subject: Clutch and ball bearing Over the weekend my (relatively new) clutch stopped working (it wasn't slipping, it simply stopped working dry) so I took my car to the shop. Some background: I've always had the feeling that when they installed my new clutch (4,000 miles ago) they didn't align the clutch components properly, because it didn't feel right and had a couple of weird sounds every now and then. I took it back a couple of times for check-up and they said that it was fine (the sounds actually faded). Anyway, I asked how come the clutch damaged so soon without even showing symptoms of age (ie. it wasn't slipping or anything). They said that the ball bearing that goes between the tranny and engine twisted and melted into the transmission shaft and it damaged the clutch disc and flywheel. I searched around then net and found an article where it says that if the clutch components aren't aligned properly, it could damage the ball bearing and in return, the ball bearing would warp the clutch disc and flywheel. But the car shop says that it's just that I'm probably just treating the car too hard. I recognize that I drive a little bit harder than average, but not doing killer things like jack-rabbit starts, power shifting, etc. I simply tend to drive faster than average. BTW, my previous clutch was the factory one and had been there since the previous owner (obviously), and I drove it for over 15,000 additional miles before it finally started slipping at around 52,000. So I assume that it wasn't my driving that caused this to my new clutch. From what you've read, do you think it's normal for my ball bearing (which was the factory one) to twist and melt into the tranny shaft even with hard driving, or do you think that this particular shop did a crappy job when they installed my clutch? In my opinion, one symptom of them not being too careful with things is the fact that they didn't change the old ball bearing when installing the new clutch. Any comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks. Regards, Luis

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