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#1. RE: [E36M3] Bridgestone RE730's Recall - from Greg Cernosek
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:36:32 -0500 From: "Greg Cernosek" <gcernosek@inetx.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Bridgestone RE730's Recall WHAT!!! I have a set being installed today! Do you have any more information on this subject? I just got off the phone and the drone on the end said the recall only covered "Wilderness" tires. If you (or your buddy) have heard something else, please relay the info. Thanks, Greg -----Original Message----- From: Roman [mailto:roman@arteuro.com] Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 10:02 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Bridgestone RE730's Recall Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 19:49:51 -0700 From: Roman <roman@arteuro.com> Subject: Bridgestone RE730's Recall Hi All, Have any of you heard about a recent recall on the Bridgestone RE730 tires? A collegue of mine at work said there has been a recall posted. Anyone hear about it? Cheers, Roman S. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. FS: PF90s and Brembos - from j.demartino@us.qiagen.com
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:39:21 +0200 From: j.demartino@us.qiagen.com Subject: FS: PF90s and Brembos For sale: set of Brembo discs and PF90 pads for an E36 M3. The combination was purchased new and used at one driving school only. Rotors and pads are in perfect condition and show basically zero wear. Pads new are $170, rotors are $120. Great track combination but squeal like pigs if you are thinking about using on the street. Asking $175/bo shipping included. John DeMartino QIAGEN Inc. Product Manager Large Scale Plasmid/UP100/Cloning Phone: 800-426-8157, ext. 23507 Fax: 661-702-3652 j.demartino@us.qiagen.com www.qiagen.com QIAGEN. Dedicated to Your Success.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Clutch and ball bearing - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:11:46 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch and ball bearing Luis, You have to be a little more specific as to which part failed. Was it the pilot bearing or the throwout bearing? The pilot bearing is installed in the end of the crankshaft and is used to keep the tranny's input shaft in alignment with the crankshaft (thus also keeping the clutch components in alignment). The throwout bearing is used to move the fingers on the pressure plate when you depress the clutch pedal. It's what transfers the clutch pedal's motion into engagement and disengagement of the clutch. The throwout bearing should always be replaced when replacing the clutch. Also, if I'm not mistaken, BMW issued a TSB indicating that if the new throwout bearing has a plastic housing, it SHOULD NOT be lubricated before installation (again, that's if I remember correctly). The pilot bearing usually lasts much longer. Of course, if it goes bad, it can cause the clutch to get damaged as well as damaging the transmission. Actually, from the sound of it, I'm guessing your pilot bearing is what went bad. If that's the case, I would think it is the shop's fault for not diagnosing it as bad when the clutch was being done, as that's one of the parts that should be inspected during the job. Nick > From what you've read, do you think it's normal for my ball bearing > (which was the factory one) to twist and melt into the tranny shaft even > with hard driving, or do you think that this particular shop did a > crappy job when they installed my clutch? In my opinion, one symptom of > them not being too careful with things is the fact that they didn't > change the old ball bearing when installing the new clutch.
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#4. Re: Strut brace installation - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:11:25 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Strut brace installation on 7/30/01 3:42 PM, Mark Siismets <msiismets@yahoo.com> wrote: > I plan to install the Motorsports Stress Bar (strut tower brace) on my '95 M3 > in the near future, and would appreciate any installation tips. > > The bar is threaded on each end near the strut tower mounts, so I'm interested > in knowing how I should properly adjust the bar. Adjust it for the bar to fit with the suspension loaded. No preload necessary. > Also, does anyone know the proper torque setting for each of the bolts used to > secure the bar to the strut towers? Spec is 16 lb-ft, which many torque wrenches won't read down to with any accuracy. Hand tighten firmly with a short-handled ratchet, no gorilla action. Hope you also have the special nuts for the Motorsport bar, you need them. > Finally, I recall reading about reinforced front strut mounts in a previous > post -- would these be a recommended addition when I install the strut brace? Yes, highly recommended: P/N 31 31 2 489 795, qty 2 required, 96 and later M3 comes with them. They fit under the strut towers and on top of the strut bearing plates. You don't have to remove the struts from the car, just drop them: - Jack the whole front of the car and support on stands. - Remove wheels. - Undo swaybar link on one side to allow struts to move independently. - Undo 3 nuts on strut tower, lower strut gently with small jack as far as it will go. - Reach up inside strut tower, recover paper gasket from top of bearing plate (or use new one, P/N 31 33 1 094 288). - Place reinforcing plate and gasket on top of bearing plate, use jack to lift strut back into place (a helper is useful). Make sure the bearing plates are correctly oriented (arrow points forward). - Torque nuts to 16 lb-ft. - Repeat other side. - Reconnect swaybar link, mount wheels. > TIA, > Mark > '95 M3
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#5. Sheared a wheel bolt.... - from Simon Lloyd
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:18:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Simon Lloyd <simon_j_lloyd@yahoo.com> Subject: Sheared a wheel bolt.... Hello all, I sheared a wheel bolt while taking a tire off my 99 M3. So I am left with 4 wheel bolts holding the tire on the car with 1 wheel bolt sheared off and stuck in the hole... so whats the best method to get the remainder of the bolt out? It looks like it may need drilling out... Thanks. Simon 99 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Clutch and ball bearing - from Luis Veras
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:31:22 -0400 From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Clutch and ball bearing Nick, Yes, it was the pilot bearing. I had a conversation with the shop after I sent this email and they sort of admited that they probably didn't inspect it properly when they installed the new clutch. I kind of pressured them saying that I was rethinking as to where I should install my new clutch. So we reached a compromise of me not paying for labor, only for parts. I think they still should be responsible for parts, considering that I also had to pay a $250 tow (I was far away from the capital), but they were kind enough to work on my car yesterday (Sunday), so I decided to gamble and let them install my new clutch, trusting that they'll be more careful this time. Thanks for your help. Luis > -----Original Message----- > From: NickG [mailto:nikog@mediaone.net] > Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 5:12 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch and ball bearing > > > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:11:46 -0400 > From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch and ball bearing > > Luis, > > You have to be a little more specific as to which part > failed. Was it the > pilot bearing or the throwout bearing? The pilot bearing is > installed in the > end of the crankshaft and is used to keep the tranny's input shaft in > alignment with the crankshaft (thus also keeping the clutch > components in > alignment). The throwout bearing is used to move the fingers > on the pressure > plate when you depress the clutch pedal. It's what transfers > the clutch > pedal's motion into engagement and disengagement of the clutch. > > The throwout bearing should always be replaced when replacing > the clutch. > Also, if I'm not mistaken, BMW issued a TSB indicating that if the new > throwout bearing has a plastic housing, it SHOULD NOT be > lubricated before > installation (again, that's if I remember correctly). The > pilot bearing > usually lasts much longer. Of course, if it goes bad, it can cause the > clutch to get damaged as well as damaging the transmission. > > Actually, from the sound of it, I'm guessing your pilot > bearing is what went > bad. If that's the case, I would think it is the shop's fault for not > diagnosing it as bad when the clutch was being done, as > that's one of the > parts that should be inspected during the job. > > Nick > > > From what you've read, do you think it's normal for my ball bearing > > (which was the factory one) to twist and melt into the > tranny shaft even > > with hard driving, or do you think that this particular shop did a > > crappy job when they installed my clutch? In my opinion, > one symptom of > > them not being too careful with things is the fact that they didn't > > change the old ball bearing when installing the new clutch. > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the > mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#7. Re: Subject: Clutch and ball bearing - from Steve Walsh
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:35:07 -0700 From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Subject: Clutch and ball bearing At 03:42 PM 7/30/01 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:24:05 -0400 >From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> >Subject: Clutch and ball bearing Luis, I'm going to make the assumption that the 'ball bearing' you refer to, is in fact the throw-out bearing. This (in E36's) is bearing race contained in a plastic housing. There is *no* excuse for not replacing this bearing if the clutch is replaced. The clutch kit supplied by BMW or Sach (the OE manufacturer) includes the damn thing ! When I replaced my clutch, the friction plate was still with service specs, but the throw-out bearing had failed. FWIW my kit (Sach kit from Steve D.) specified that the throw-out bearing NOT be greased when installed. Some cars DO require a type of grease be applied. If this procedure is not followed accelerated wear will occur. My car has seen many track days, and while I'm pretty easy on equipment (182K miles on my '93 325is), the throw-out bearing has never "twisted and melted into the transmission shaft". I have a friend with a Dinan-superchared M3 that has seen may a track day also, and if anything would melt a clutch this might, and it hasn't suffered one little bit.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Sheared a wheel bolt.... - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:40:29 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sheared a wheel bolt.... depends on how much of it is sticking out. if NONE is sticking out, you have to use something like an EZ-OUT bolt extractor. now that there is no tension provided by the bolt head, you should be able to get it out this way. if some of it is sticking out of the hub (with the wheel removed, brake rotor removed), you could grab the end with some visegrips and try that. good luck. ben liaw ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Lloyd" <simon_j_lloyd@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 5:42 PM Subject: [E36M3] Sheared a wheel bolt.... > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:18:02 -0700 (PDT) > From: Simon Lloyd <simon_j_lloyd@yahoo.com> > Subject: Sheared a wheel bolt.... > > Hello all, > I sheared a wheel bolt while taking a tire off my 99 > M3. So I am left with 4 wheel bolts holding the tire > on the car with 1 wheel bolt sheared off and stuck in > the hole... so whats the best method to get the > remainder of the bolt out? It looks like it may need > drilling out... > > Thanks. > Simon > 99 M3 > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#9. FS: HAMA Suction-cup Video Camera Mount - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:24:17 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: FS: HAMA Suction-cup Video Camera Mount The subject says it all. Purchased for use in my coupe. It was used only a few times. I now have a full rollbar, so I've ordered a regular video camera mount. See product info at: http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/bin/webcart/webcart.cgi?RET=10&RCATS=Video+Came ra+Mounts&FIRST_TIME=Yes&START=1&DOSEARCH=YES&CODE=47560 Paid $110. Will sell for $75 including shipping. -peterg
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#10. ITG air filter oil - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 23:38:23 -0400 From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> Subject: ITG air filter oil Where is the best place to get cleaner and oil for the ITG air filter on my JC intake? Any good sources out there? A few really dusty days at Nelson Ledges recently have made it look like, well, like it's been at Nelson Ledges too much. Vern Anderson 98 M3/2