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#1. Re: [E36M3] Goin' down that dark path - from Matt Henson
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Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 20:28:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Goin' down that dark path I think that Jim Powell has one of these on his Mechtech M3. He did a write up at www.apexcone.com. His results were pretty good. If you're happy with your timing and just want to dork with the fuel then this might be a good choice.. -Matt --- Alain van der Heide <ajvdh1@home.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 20:54:43 -0600 > From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@home.com> > Subject: Goin' down that dark path > > Turbo tuning. What fun. Anybody know about > installing an A'pexi super-afc > on a BMW? > > So this is where I am: '95 M3. Mechtech turbo kit, > running stock pressure > (nominally 5 psi, but it peaks at 7 psi around 4k > RPM). With the help of > Karl at Active, I ditched the devil spawn rising > rate fuel pressure > regulator, and upgraded the injectors from the stock > 18 lb/hr to 35 lb/hr > (aargh, aargh, aargh). AA supplied me with a new > chip to accomodate the new > injectors. > > Karl did his best effort. The transition into boost > is more linear (I'm > guessing it's on account that the additional fuel > gets added the instant > boost comes on, instead of when the RRFPR got around > to raising the system > pressure). Problem is, since I live 2000 miles away > and 5000 ft higher than > AA, it ain't perfect. Specifically I'm getting a > tad lean at WOT and high > RPM. We're not talking instant piston nuke, but > lean enough that I don't > want to track it until I've got it resolved. > > So, I've been investigating alternatives. One of > 'em is the Unichip. > Upside is, if it's done right, it can be very > effective - fuel, ignition and > Vanos maps specific to my car. Downsides are, I > can't mess with it myself, > it's only as good as the guy doing the tuning (and > I'm not too sure about > the local shop that sells 'em), and it's expensive. > The other alternative > would be the A'pexi super-afc. Less flexible, but > much cheaper and I can > tune it myself. A'pexi says they don't support BMW, > but they've heard > people have used 'em successfully. I'm leaning to > the second alternative at > this moment. > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] rotors stuck - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 01:12:09 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] rotors stuck john0990@yahoo.com writes: << Pound on the rotor with a large mallet or hammer. You may have to put some real muscle into it. But some anti-sieze on the inside of the new rotor where it contacts the hub. This will help prevent future problems. >> Some times you need to use a propane torch. Heating up the largest or outside piece really helps. I tried to remove my rear rotors. This was an M3 that had 40,000 miles, had never seen road salt, had only been in light snow flurries twice, had spent all but about 30 nights in a heated garage, washed twice a week, ..... In other words, a prissy garage queen. <g> My rotors should have been the last ones in town to seize to the hub - but one of the rear's did! I beat on it with a rubber mallet for 2 minutes. Then I beat on it with a 3 lb hand drill until I had dented the rotor. It would NOT come off! I finally got out my propane torch and heated up the rotor hat for 15 seconds. It came off so easy a tack hammer could have knocked it off. Any chemical engineers want to help me out? <g> I think corrosion is caused by the flow of electrons between metal parts. Stop the electrons, and you stop the corrosion. One good way to stop the electrons is to use grease or anti-seize. The grease interrupts the electrons and can't corrode. The other good way to stop corrosion is to polish the surfaces. For some reason smooth, shiny pieces don't corrode like rough, ugly parts. Somehow the electrons can't transfer across the shiny surfaces. I use a wire cup brush in my drill to clean and polish parts before reassemble. Between the wire brushing and grease, I better not have any more stuck rotors. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas BMW CCA #131505
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#3. Question for Car Stereo Junkies & Installers - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 22:32:36 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Question for Car Stereo Junkies & Installers Here's something I'm not quite clear on -- perhaps someone can enlighten me. What EXACTLY is the DIN standard for car stereo mounting? Is DIN just a particular, standard-everywhere cutout size? I.e. is is just a two-dimensional rectangle? Or is it a standard that includes some details of the "frame" that the head unit goes into? I.e. is it a three-dimensional spec with bends and cutouts etc? I ask because I have a gauge panel that pops into the "radio slot" in my M3 LWT. I made the panel, and it's a nice, tight fit. It's held in by spring-loaded pins that grab a small plastic "wall" above and below the cutout. Now I recently purchased BMW P/N 65 12 8 378 759, labelled "support frame", and I think it superceded 65 12 8 386 127. It seems to be almost identical in size to my gauge panel. But I don't understand why it exists. If I were to put it into my car, then the "radio hole" would be smaller than it is right now. Smaller by about 0.062"x2 in each direction. Is it for adding aftermarket radios to an M3? Is it needed because the BMW radios are ever-so-slightly larger than a standard DIN cutout? What I'm really after is what dimensions and other design features do I design to in order to be able to pop into (and be held firmly in) the widest variety of DIN cutouts across a range of car manufacturers? Any enlightenment would be appreciated. Thanks! -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#4. changing a wheel bearing - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 00:54:46 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: changing a wheel bearing http://www.mindspring.com/~kitwetzler/wheel_bearing.html I documented changing my wheel bearings. It's pretty simple, took me about an hour for the first side and 30 minutes for the other side. Email me if you have any questions... It's a pretty graphics intensive page, sorry for those low bandwidth people. -kit
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#5. afc... - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 01:07:26 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: afc... > The other alternative would be the A'pexi super-afc. Less flexible, but much cheaper > and I can tune it myself. Ew. Don't even think about it. For those that don't know, the Super-AFC "tunes" by altering the MAF signal. You need more fuel? "fool" the DME into thinking that the MAF reading is higher than it is. You need less fuel? "fool" the DME into thinking that there is a lower MAF reading that there is. Sounds great, right? haha, nope. The problem is that other things get adjusted too... if the DME thinks that less air is coming in, it'll try to run more timing advance to try and get the most out of what is has... if the DME thinks that there is MORE air coming in, it'll try to run less timing advance to prevend detonation. (This is obviously over simplified, but you get the point.) Unfortunately, much of the DME's decision making process is using the MAF signal... it's a hack at best. Also, the 02 sensor and the DME work together to create fuel trims... The last thing you want is your long term fuel trims to be set by a funky MAF reading. Do it right. Buy a TEC-II, set up a crank trigger and get someone to show you how to program it and you shouldn't have to worry about altitude. Plus, you get a real ECU, etc... :) I've used AFCs on two former cars (97 Eclipse GSX, and 00 Honda S2000) both sucked ass. Don't let your DSM friends tell you that it works fine on their car... it works because the DSM ECU is much more tolerant to funky signals... -kit
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#6. Re: [E36M3] New 3 series? - from Roy Kao
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 10:46:30 -0400 From: "Roy Kao" <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New 3 series? From the pictures on the BMW.com website, it looks to me like BMW is trying to capitalize on the M branding again. The first did it with the 5-series, offering an M package that makes a 540i looks oh-so-close to an M5 to the untrained eye with cosmetic changes. Now, it looks like they're doing the same thing by facelifting the regular E46 lineup to imitate the E46 M3, at least from the front-end with the vents and the driving lights. While I do believe that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, I think it's too bad that BMW can no longer sell distinctive cars within its lineups to different market segments. Just marketing I suppose... Roy '99 E36 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#7. Re: Oil Changing Option - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 10:00:50 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Oil Changing Option on 8/1/01 10:12 PM, "Mel Silva" <mel.silva@pdq.net> wrote: > unburnt hydrocarbon materials that can be very alkaline in nature (acidic). Hey Mel, make up your mind! Neil 96 M3
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#8. Retrofitting rear headrests in a 95 M3 - from Juan Rico
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 08:34:44 -0700 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: Retrofitting rear headrests in a 95 M3 Hi all, Well, the subject line says it all. I've just purchased some rear headrests from a fellow list member and I haven't a clue as to how to go about installing these. It looks, at first glance, that I might have to start with a new latter version rear shelf to accommodate the headrests. Anybody know of a write up somewhere? Anybody been there done that? I've seen Alan Taur's website and he's done this mod but I couldn't find his email address. Alan, are you out there? Thanks for any help... Juan.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Oil Changing Option - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 08:23:36 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil Changing Option Thanks for all the responses! I had completely forgotten about the top side oil changers. That's probably the perfect solution for my at-home changes. If I get "caught" I can just say that German cars require this funky looking mechanism just to add oil. ;) Thanks again, Jonathan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#10. Moving glove box lock cylinder - from Luis Veras
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 11:52:14 -0400 From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> Subject: Moving glove box lock cylinder A couple of months ago I saw somewhere online instructions for changing the glove box lock cylinder from one to another without making a big mess. Anyone has the URL or instruct me how to do it? Thanks in advance. Luis