E36M3 #1517

Thursday, August 02, 2001 15:22:44

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] Question for Car Stereo Junkies & Installers - from Andrew E. Kalman
#2. thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from scott
#3. NO M3 Content: M coupe/Roadster Digest?? - from RyanWeath@aol.com
#4. Re: Changing a wheel bearing - from Neil Maller
#5. Group Car Seat Covers - from David
#6. RE: Changing a wheel bearing - from Kit Wetzler
#7. RE: [E36M3] Oil Changing Option - from John Firestone
#8. Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Rich Gay
#9. RE: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Seth Thomas
#10. Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Rich Gay

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#1. RE: [E36M3] Question for Car Stereo Junkies & Installers - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 09:33:38 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question for Car Stereo Junkies & Installers Hi Mark. Re: >the din size is a standard size for all vehicle manufacturers. some are 1 >1/2 din, others are double din. i am not sure exactly what din stands for, "Deutsche Industrie Norm", i.e. German Industrial Standard. Thanks for the info. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

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#2. thanks Kit! and,  245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from scott 
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:35:35 -0400 From: "scott " <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? Hey Kit, that rocks. Just want to say I really appreciate it, as I'm sure I'm going to have to tackle that PITA at some point in the not-so-distant future. (no problems yet, but I got da milez, yo). Big thumbs-up. ....and in other news, has anyone used a stock 17x8.5 double-spoke (M3 rear wheel) in the front, with 245/40 hoosiers? I know all cars might show a bit of variance, but I'd love to hear feedback from someone who has run this setup, ya know, what sort of spacers you needed, what camber you're running. I'm also running H&R coilovers and kmac camber plates. cheers folks, scott >Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 00:54:46 -0700 >From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> >Subject: changing a wheel bearing > >http://www.mindspring.com/~kitwetzler/wheel_bearing.html > -kit

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#3. NO M3 Content: M coupe/Roadster Digest?? - from RyanWeath@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:45:23 EDT From: RyanWeath@aol.com Subject: NO M3 Content: M coupe/Roadster Digest?? Sorry for the WOB, but is there an Mcoupe/Roaster digest (besides the thread on bimmer.org??) Thanks, Ryan

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#4. Re: Changing a wheel bearing - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 11:49:07 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Changing a wheel bearing on 8/2/01 11:12 AM, "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> wrote: > http://www.mindspring.com/~kitwetzler/wheel_bearing.html > > I documented changing my wheel bearings. It's pretty simple, took me about > an hour for the first side and 30 minutes for the other side. Hey Kit, nice write-up and pix. My text-only instructions run about 8 zillion more words than yours, which shows that: a) I could use a good editor b) A picture really is worth a thousand words! A couple of things for everyone's benefit: It isn't necessary to detach the caliper from the caliper bracket. You can just remove the two 16mm head bolts holding the bracket to the kingpin, and take it all off as a unit. (For wiggle room, retract the brake pads first.) It's actually not hard to seat the bearing without a special tool. I selected a large socket that fit over the spindle and matched the bearing's inner race diameter, then tapped the bearing in with a hammer on the socket. You only have to get the bearing on far enough to expose some thread on the spindle, then the big axle nut can be used to push the bearing the rest of the way on. However a special tool is always nice; I had to improvise. Did you borrow/rent it from Steve D'G? Neil 96 M3

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#5. Group Car Seat Covers - from David
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:00:13 -0500 From: David <tristar500@mac.com> Subject: Group Car Seat Covers Anyone seen there's yet?

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#6. RE: Changing a wheel bearing - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 10:49:34 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: Changing a wheel bearing > It isn't necessary to detach the caliper from the caliper bracket. You can > just remove the two 16mm head bolts holding the bracket to the kingpin, and > take it all off as a unit. (For wiggle room, retract the brake > pads first.) hm. doh! I didn't think of that, but I was changing brake pads anyway, so I figured I'd take them off, and take the time to grease up the slider pins... :) oh, well. > It's actually not hard to seat the bearing without a special tool. I > selected a large socket that fit over the spindle and matched the > bearing's inner race diameter, then tapped the bearing in with a hammer on > the socket. Hm. I couldn't find a socket that fit, but you're right, that would work... thanks for pointing that out. :) > However a special tool is always nice; I had to improvise. Did you > borrow/rent it from Steve D'G? I borrowed it from a fellow list member in the area... worked out very nicely, I am pretty sure he bought it from Steve D'G. -kit 97 m3/4 lookin all shiny... until that @(#*$(@#*$(@*$ cat laid on it this morning... rowr

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#7. RE: [E36M3] Oil Changing Option - from John Firestone
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 20:25:00 -0400 (EDT) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil Changing Option > Thanks for all the responses! I had completely forgotten about the top side > oil changers. That's probably the perfect solution for my at-home changes. > If I get "caught" I can just say that German cars require this funky looking > mechanism just to add oil. ;) Just make sure none of it slops off onto the pavement or the game might be up. :) Good luck and happy oil changing! With regards from John. '96 318is -- john.firestone@nord-com.net

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#8. Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and,  245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Rich Gay
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:59:54 -0500 From: Rich Gay <rich_gay@mac.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? on 8/2/01 11:42 AM, scott at scott@ditherdog.com wrote: > ...and in other news, has anyone used a stock 17x8.5 double-spoke (M3 rear > wheel) in the front, with 245/40 hoosiers? I know all cars might show a bit of > variance, but I'd love to hear feedback from someone who has run this setup, > ya know, what sort of spacers you needed, what camber you're running. I'm also > running H&R coilovers and kmac camber plates. I ran them on 8.5" width wheels when I had my 95 M3, though not the stock M3 wheels... they were BMW wheels with 41mm offset. Was able to get away with no spacers, but just barely. I sold the wheels to a guy with a later model 4-door M3, and he has to run the spacers. My M3 had a somewhat modified suspension (the least aggressive H&R springs, Koni's, Dinan fixed-camber plates, and UUC swaybars). I would think that with the coilovers and adjustable camber plates that you'd be fine with no spacers. - Rich

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#9. RE: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and,  245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 16:20:51 -0400 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? The problem with the Hoosiers is that you need to run at least -2.5 and preferably -3.0 of camber on the front. I don't think you will be able to do this without spacers. Richs setup probably did not yield him this much camber. I would guess it was around -1.5 with that setup. So he could get away with the 8.5" wheels up front and the Hoosiers. They would have scrubbed if he would have added more camber. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com -----Original Message----- From: Rich Gay [mailto:rich_gay@mac.com] Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 4:02 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:59:54 -0500 From: Rich Gay <rich_gay@mac.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? on 8/2/01 11:42 AM, scott at scott@ditherdog.com wrote: > ...and in other news, has anyone used a stock 17x8.5 double-spoke (M3 rear > wheel) in the front, with 245/40 hoosiers? I know all cars might show a bit of > variance, but I'd love to hear feedback from someone who has run this setup, > ya know, what sort of spacers you needed, what camber you're running. I'm also > running H&R coilovers and kmac camber plates. I ran them on 8.5" width wheels when I had my 95 M3, though not the stock M3 wheels... they were BMW wheels with 41mm offset. Was able to get away with no spacers, but just barely. I sold the wheels to a guy with a later model 4-door M3, and he has to run the spacers. My M3 had a somewhat modified suspension (the least aggressive H&R springs, Koni's, Dinan fixed-camber plates, and UUC swaybars). I would think that with the coilovers and adjustable camber plates that you'd be fine with no spacers. - Rich ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

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#10. Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and,  245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Rich Gay
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 15:13:57 -0500 From: Rich Gay <rich_gay@mac.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? on 8/2/01 3:20 PM, Seth Thomas at porsche993@mindspring.com wrote: > The problem with the Hoosiers is that you need to run at least -2.5 and > preferably -3.0 of camber on the front. I don't think you will be able to > do this without spacers. Richs setup probably did not yield him this much > camber. I would guess it was around -1.5 with that setup. So he could get > away with the 8.5" wheels up front and the Hoosiers. They would have > scrubbed if he would have added more camber. I remember we measured the camber to be -2.7 or so up front with the fixed-camber plates. Based on tire wear, a bit more would have helped. There was very minimal rubbing against the spring perch. Very minimal though, and it could be ignored. Increasing the negative camber won't affect any potential rubbing with the spring perch, btw. - Rich

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