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#1. Re: List Welcome - from Thomas G. Pla
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 16:23:03 -0400 From: "Thomas G. Pla" <thomas_pla@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: List Welcome can you give me the daily group email option instead? ----- Original Message ----- From: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> To: <thomas_pla@hotmail.com> Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 3:21 PM Subject: List Welcome > Welcome to the E36M3 list! > > This list is a private, moderated list run by Sue Kraft for E36M3 > enthusiasts. Please stay on topic and leave the flames at home! > > ************************************************************ > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s) > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************ > > Hints > 1. Before clicking the SEND button, take a moment to check (really > look at) the following: > > a. The TO field - Is it really going where you want it? In most > cases, it should be addressed to E36M3@bmw-m.net. > > Or, if you are sending a private message to the originator make > sure you have his/her address not the list address. > > b. The SUBJECT field - Clean it before sending. It gets cluttered > up with prepended junk. Every reply gets a RE: put in front > of the Subject even if it already begins with one. Eventually, > your reply may look like: > Subject: RE: Re: RE: RE: Re: original subject > > c. If you are changing the subject, change the SUBJECT field to > reflect the new subject. > > 2. Strip multiple footers and excess quotes. Messages can gather > substantial debris in just a few exchanges. Every reply gets > another footer appended to it, even if one is (or more are) already > present. After a few replies, you can have quite a collection of > identical footers. Please delete all of them before sending. > Rest assured that the system will not forget to add another. > > Same problem with excess quotes. Can we keep them to a minimum by > deleting all but the few needed words or lines? In many cases, > we might be able to get rid of all the quotes without losing > meaning, clarity, or continuity. > > ************************************************************ > >
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#2. subsribe list - from Bryan Welch
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 13:44:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Bryan Welch <bryanw@internap.com> Subject: subsribe list would like to receive as a list format instead of digest On Thu, 2 Aug 2001, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:22:00 -0500 > From: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > To: bryanw@internap.com > Subject: Digest Welcome > > Welcome to the E36M3 list digest! > > This list is a private, moderated list run by Sue Kraft for E36M3 > enthusiasts. Please stay on topic and leave the flames at home! > > ************************************************************ > Digest Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - unsubscribes you from the digest. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s) > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************ > > Hints > 1. Before clicking the SEND button, take a moment to check (really > look at) the following: > > a. The TO field - Is it really going where you want it? In most > cases, it should be addressed to E36M3@bmw-m.net. > > Or, if you are sending a private message to the originator make > sure you have his/her address not the list address. > > b. The SUBJECT field - Clean it before sending. It gets cluttered > up with prepended junk. Every reply gets a RE: put in front > of the Subject even if it already begins with one. Eventually, > your reply may look like: > Subject: RE: Re: RE: RE: Re: original subject > > c. If you are changing the subject, change the SUBJECT field to > reflect the new subject. > > 2. Strip multiple footers and excess quotes. Messages can gather > substantial debris in just a few exchanges. Every reply gets > another footer appended to it, even if one is (or more are) already > present. After a few replies, you can have quite a collection of > identical footers. Please delete all of them before sending. > Rest assured that the system will not forget to add another. > > Same problem with excess quotes. Can we keep them to a minimum by > deleting all but the few needed words or lines? In many cases, > we might be able to get rid of all the quotes without losing > meaning, clarity, or continuity. > > ************************************************************ > >
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#3. RE:Retrofitting rear headrests in a 95 M3 - from Joe Tan
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 13:47:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: RE:Retrofitting rear headrests in a 95 M3 I remember someone did the conversion a while ago, can't remember the name. But what he had to do was drill whiles in the shelf and also had to drill some holes on the metal piece under teh shelf so that the headrest post can go all the way down. ----------------- Hi all, Well, the subject line says it all. I've just purchased some rear headrests from a fellow list member and I haven't a clue as to how to go about installing these. It looks, at first glance, that I might have to start with a new latter version rear shelf to accommodate the headrests. Anybody know of a write up somewhere? Anybody been there done that? I've seen Alan Taur's website and he's done this mod but I couldn't find his email address. Alan, are you out there? Thanks for any help... Juan. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
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#4. Rear sway bar reinforcing mounts - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:43:56 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Rear sway bar reinforcing mounts Has anyone tried the various sway bar reinforcing plates. What are the options? I know Turner and I believe Ground Control have some. Also UUC makes a bolt in one. Has anyone tried UUC? Thoughts? Thanks. steve
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#5. Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:52:17 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions I thought I would share my installation and impressions of the rear trailing arm bushings with the board considering how much information all of you have shared with me. Thanks again for all who had advice for me. This board has helped me out the most. First off, many thanks again to Jim Powell for the use of his garage and his son Alex as a helping hand. I have to get air tools and a lift! Jim gave a hand to but it was clapping when I finally left his garage. Actually Jim was very accommodating when I left my car in his garage for a few days. Thanks. I'll give my impressions first since the installation has been published many times over. First off, this makes a bigger difference than the x-brace. The back end feels so much better, tighter, tucks in nicely through corners doesn't side step when accelerating. As for harshness, I notice the BOT DOTS on the freeway making more noise. The road noise added is very little if any. The H&R c/o's add significantly more road noise than the bushing. The feel can be similarly compared to the x-brace after installation. It firms things up in all the right places. The two options for rear trailing arm bushings are ground control and TC Kline. I ended up getting the Ground Control ones. Both companies have a great reputation in the racing world. Ground control is a two piece unit that solidly houses the bearing in one side. It's a little different from the TC Kline design in that the TC Kline bearing sits equally between two halves. I believe that GC decided to lock the bearing into one side because of the varying width dimensions of the arms. The common tools for the installation are; 18mm socket - for the rear trailing arm bolts, bracket to trailing arm. 10mm socket - for the two bolts that hold the brake line to the rear trailing arm 17mm socket - to remove the wheels 1/2" wrench and socket - GC trailing arm bushing bolts sawzall - to cut the rubber out of the bushing drill - to make a hole for the sawzall 220 sand paper - to clean up the rust from the trailing arm bearing race Metal File - to clean up any nicks the sawzall makes in the race 1/2" diameter bar or long screw driver to manually push and pull toe on the rear trailing arm Now for the installation. Got over to Jim's house about 6pm on Tuesday. The removal of the bushings is easy with a sawzall. I thought of a bunch of different ways to remove the bushing and I ended up using a sawzall. Jim thoroughly outlines the procedures on his website. I can't improve upon them any more than what he has so here is the link; http://www.apexcone.com/RearBushings/RearBushing.html Removal of the bushing is clockwork. We had the bushing out in 15 minutes for both sides. The installation should have been a 15 minute job but the bearings were 0.003" press fit. If you have a 20 ton press this might not seem like much but with a hammer it's quite a bit. I ended up measuring the opening of my trailing arms; left side 59.80mm right side 60.00mm The bearings were 60.07. There was no way my wooden mallet was going to defy the laws of physics, unfortunately. I called Jay at Ground Control up and told him my dilemma. He resized some bearings and sent them to me the next day. I can't thank Jay enough for the customer service he provided. A very important consideration after the sale. The bearings went smoothly in and I was back on the road no time. Now for the embarrasing part. I installed the trailing arm brackets left to right. What this does is give about +3 degrees camber to what you already have. Needless to say I am now an expert at taking my trailing arms down and back up. I don't know if I would recommend this job to a home mechanic because of the bearing press issues. If you are willing to take the risk and possible downtime then try it but you might be in for a surprise. Hope this helps anyone looking into doing the job. steve
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 15:45:04 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions Steven wrote: >Now for the embarrasing part. I installed the trailing arm brackets >left to right. What this does is give about +3 degrees camber to >what you already have. Needless to say I am now an expert at taking >my trailing arms down and back up. Can you explain this a little more? Do you mean more negative camber? Many of us would KILL for -3 in the rear. Which part(s) exactly (describe it, don't name it) did you swap L<->R? Or do you mean it changed the toe? I ask because I can't see how the brackets (i.e. the hat that holds the bushing and is mounted to the car with three bolts) can be swapped L<->R, nor how it would affect camber ... Thanks. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 15:59:46 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions I'm talking about the rear not the front. I did swap strut hats front too, I got; -2.25 left and -3 right side. The problem I was talking about is the bracket that attaches the rear trailing arm to the body of the car. Yes it is actually possible to swap these as well. I was not thinking clearly when I put my car back together again, hence the switch. My car with stock bushings had -1 to -1.5 camber. After installing my brackets right to left and vice versa, I had +3/4 rear camber. NOT very desirable. At first I thought that it was from the bearings no longer being able to sag but it was actually because the trailing arm was positioned wrong. I also had fender rubbing problems as well. Thanks for making me expand on my stupid moment, I feel so much better now. Just kidding, as long as my stupid moments help other people watch for the mistake. Okay but I have to say that I did install my H&R c/o's in 3 hours from up to down which is faster than most people. Oh and also I set my alignment specs to Front -1/8 toe in, -2.25 left, -3 right Rear 0 toe out, -2 degrees for both left and right At maximum I can get -2.5 camber in the back. What other settings do people use? I'm thinking about getting a little more aggressive with the toe, maybe 1/16" positive. What does everyone think. I want to do this to dial out some of the understeer. steve At 03:45 PM 8/2/01 -0700, Andrew E. Kalman wrote: >Steven wrote: > >>Now for the embarrasing part. I installed the trailing arm brackets left >>to right. What this does is give about +3 degrees camber to what you >>already have. Needless to say I am now an expert at taking my trailing >>arms down and back up. > > >Can you explain this a little more? > >Do you mean more negative camber? Many of us would KILL for -3 in the >rear. Which part(s) exactly (describe it, don't name it) did you swap L<->R? > >Or do you mean it changed the toe? > >I ask because I can't see how the brackets (i.e. the hat that holds the >bushing and is mounted to the car with three bolts) can be swapped L<->R, >nor how it would affect camber ... > >Thanks. >-- > > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 16:11:55 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Trailing Arm Bushing Installation and impressions Steve wrote: Re: >Yes it is actually possible to swap these as well. I was not >thinking clearly when I put my car back together again, hence the >switch. My car with stock bushings had -1 to -1.5 camber. After >installing my brackets right to left and vice versa, I had +3/4 rear >camber. NOT very desirable. Thanks for the clarification. I didn't think that they could be swapped, even accidentally. Now we know! -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#9. brake pads - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 16:14:45 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: brake pads whew. I just put on and broke in a set of PBR metal master from Steve D. I've used these pads before on smaller cars and generally liked them as a street pad... they are NOT a track pad, though. :) the metal masters take 1 or 2 stops to warm up, but after that they're great. no squealing or anything yet... they still stop better than stock, but not like the Hawk HP Pluses... I've taken off my Hawk HP Pluses. I already miss the stopping power, but the dust and squealing was more than I could put up with. If anyone wants them to try them out, or needs a light duty track pad, let me know. I'd like $50 for both front and rears, they've got 95% of their life left... no shipping, though. Bay area people definitely preferred... -kit
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#10. Anyone know weight of E36 M3 Euro floating rotors vs. stock? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 21:23:51 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Anyone know weight of E36 M3 Euro floating rotors vs. stock?