E36M3 #1519

Friday, August 03, 2001 15:22:31

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Free Dyno Time - from Steve D'Gerolamo
#2. understeer? - from Kit Wetzler
#3. toe-out up front to cure understeer? - from Jeremy Conners
#4. Fwd: RE: [E36M3] Circular rotors & Ellipsoid headlights - from Chris Papademetrious
#5. Re: [E36M3] 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Matt Henson
#6. [E36M3] stuff for sale - from Dinah DeRoller
#7. Xenon Light Installation - from Donald R. Chapman
#8. RE: [E36M3] toe-out up front to cure understeer? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
#9. Re: Rear sway bar reinforcing mounts - from Neil Maller
#10. Seat Covers - from Dorffer, Rich

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#1. Free Dyno Time - from Steve D'Gerolamo
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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 22:00:44 -0400 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <steved3@idt.net> Subject: Free Dyno Time I need to get the Dynapack tech to Newark airport tomorrow afternoon from Morristown, NJ (about a 30 min drive) and will give free time (tomorrow) to anyone who can accommodate with this task. Please contact me directly. Steve ================================== Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage - Tel 201-262-0412

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#2. understeer? - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 19:08:08 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: understeer? > What other settings do people use? I'm thinking about getting a little > more aggressive with the toe, maybe 1/16" positive. What does everyone > think. I want to do this to dial out some of the understeer. Toe out isn't gonna help, it'll just wear your tires faster. :) Try to get -3 degrees on both sides... I found the K-Mac camber plates help over the stock pieces because they take some of the "give" out of the stock mounts. I have mine set at -2.5 degrees up front and -1.5 out back and my car is fairly neutral... a bit of turn in understeer, then the cornering attitude is controlled by your right food. I ran 1/8 total toe out in the front and KILLED my tires... :( -kit

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#3. toe-out up front to cure understeer? - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 23:21:11 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <JConners@columbus.rr.com> Subject: toe-out up front to cure understeer? Obviously, you don't want radical toe-in up front due to excessive slip angles, but I'm not sure what the thought process is to cure understeer by toeing-out the front wheels. Toe-out up front would provide an unstable feeling even in a straight line. The front tires would each be fighting for the right to shoot the car in their direction. The problem manifests itself when you hit a bump in the road and that tire receives more normal force. It would then have a slightly higher amount of grip and would take control. Then as the driver corrects to bring the car back on line, you over-correct the other wheel (toe-out even more). When the car transfers weight back to both wheels as you correct, the problem will arise in the opposite direction. This is certainly an unstable situation at best. If the toe-out is too excessive, the resonance would blow-up and you would spin the car if you're lucky... This same reasoning can be applied in a corner... Anyone have any thoughts on this? Jeremy Conners Dublin, OH 97 M3

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#4. Fwd: RE: [E36M3] Circular rotors & Ellipsoid headlights - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 00:18:53 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: Fwd: RE: [E36M3] Circular rotors & Ellipsoid headlights Fellow M3 owners, Here's a post from Joe Martinez, the guy that runs http://parts4bmw.com/. He's looking into a good low-cost source for the HID headlights for you guys. (He already has a source for the Euro ellipsoid kit.) I'm not ready for the HIDs yet, I'm still working on putting in my ellipsoid kit! - Chris >From: "Joe Martinez" <parts4bmw@earthlink.net> >To: "Chris Papademetrious" <chrispitude@yahoo.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Circular rotors & Ellipsoid headlights >Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 17:41:37 -0700 > >Sorry for the delay, I will check and get back to you on the HIDs, there is >someone but I can not recall who it is that has the HIDs. >Thanks >JOE

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#5. Re: [E36M3] 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 06:50:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 245/40 hoosiers on 8.5's in front? It depends on how you increase the camber. If you use shims or a crash bolt then it will increase rubbing. If you use a plate then it will not. This brings me to my point - if someone wants wider wheels up front but there is rubbing on the strut housing then there is a solution that isn't spacers.. Adding a crash bolt and adjusting the hub in the positive camber direction will give you clearence. adding .5d of positive camber should give about 3mm of clearence for a wheel/tire radius of 12.5". Then you can get the camber back by adding the camber plates. I would expect that the crash bolt could add 0-.75d of positive camber. I don't know how much camber you can get from a plate; I'd expect some of them to go up to 4d for racing. I know we've covered this before but it's worth going over again if it keeps people from using spacers unnecessarily.. -Matt --- Rich Gay <rich_gay@mac.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 15:13:57 -0500 > From: Rich Gay <rich_gay@mac.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] thanks Kit! and, 245/40 > hoosiers on 8.5's in front? > > There was very minimal rubbing against the spring > perch. Very minimal > though, and it could be ignored. Increasing the > negative camber won't affect > any potential rubbing with the spring perch, btw. > > > - Rich > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

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#6. [E36M3] stuff for sale - from Dinah DeRoller
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Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 12:52:22 -0400 From: Dinah DeRoller <dinah_g_deroller@redcom.com> Subject: [E36M3] stuff for sale Hi everyone, I have the following stuff for sale from my '97 M3: o Original exhaust...37K miles, no salt (Vince, are you happy now??? ;-) ) o Original stereo/head unit with weather band, cd changer controller and cassette. o One brand-new Michelin MXX3 (originally the spare). 225/45-17. Perfect condition. Make me an offer on any of the items...Located in Rochester, NY. Thanks, Dinah

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#7. Xenon Light Installation - from Donald R. Chapman
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Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 13:08:22 -0400 From: "Donald R. Chapman" <drchapman@mindspring.com> Subject: Xenon Light Installation Hello to all- I'm a lurker with a '95 M3 who is in the process of installing Xenon H1's in the Euro ellipsoid lights. I have followed Jim Powell's web instructions and have got a problem with the xenons working intermittently and getting the check engine: low beam failure on the OBC. I also get relay chatter on the right turn signal indicator which seems to go away when I rev the car. Right now I get the chatter and neither beam works at all. I have insulated everything I can see, checked all fuses (15amp to the low beams) all to no avail. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for any help you can send my way. Rusty Chapman Fairfax, VA

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#8. RE: [E36M3] toe-out up front to cure understeer? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 12:46:20 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] toe-out up front to cure understeer? Jeremy Conners [mailto:JConners@columbus.rr.com] wrote: > > Toe-out up front would provide an unstable feeling even in a > straight line. The front tires would each be fighting for > the right to shoot the car in their direction. The problem > manifests itself when you hit a bump in the road and that > tire receives more normal force. It would then have a slightly > higher amount of grip and would take control. Then as the driver > corrects to bring the car back on line, you over-correct the > other wheel (toe-out even more). When the car transfers weight > back to both wheels as you correct, the problem will arise in > the opposite direction. This is certainly an unstable situation > at best. Jeremy, How is toe-out geometrical imbalance any different from that under toe-in? Under both scenarios, front wheels are directing the car to the opposite sides of the road. The key is keeping the two in/out angles identical on both wheels so that the pulls cancel each out. That was my take on the theory. In practice, after installing KMACs and setting them to maximum negative camber I wound up with massive amounts of toe out. I was cooking the inside edges of my tires both on the steet and autoX. But the car continued to track perfectly straight on the road and I could take my hands off the steering wheel without too much excitement. All because I had equal amounts of toe-out at both wheels. > If the toe-out is too excessive, the resonance would blow-up > and you would spin the car if you're lucky... > Anyone have any thoughts on this? I humbly submit that toe-out is as innocent as toe-in, all other things being equal. alex f '95 M3

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#9. Re: Rear sway bar reinforcing mounts - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 13:58:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rear sway bar reinforcing mounts on 8/2/01 8:41 PM, Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> wrote: > Has anyone tried the various sway bar reinforcing plates. What are the > options? I know Turner and I believe Ground Control have some. Also UUC > makes a bolt in one. Has anyone tried UUC? Thoughts? Thanks. I've have a problem with the UUC's design concept for this product. The E36 rear swaybar mounts are part of the subframe, and the that in turn attaches to the body structure via big rubber bushings. The UUC bracket joins the swaybar mount area directly to the body under the trunk floor, effectively "short-circuiting" the effect of the rubber bushings. It seems to me that this could potentially transfer high suspension loads through an area that's not designed for it. The Turner reinforcements are just shaped metal triangulations, ready to be welded in. You could relatively easily make your own, although it's convenient to be able to buy them. One of my rear tabs broke before you could buy these, so a friendly body shop made some up and welded them in place (pix available). I find it interesting that this has been a problem through multiple generations of BMWs. I was on the track in someone else's E28 5 series when the front swaybar mount broke, apparently a common problem on that car. Weak mounts are well known on the E30, and I've broken both rear tabs and front brackets on my own E36 M3. You'd think that the company that brings us the awesome S54 engine could get the swaybar mounts right, but apparently not. Neil 96 M3

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#10. Seat Covers - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 16:18:44 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Seat Covers FYI - Mine arrived today although I have not looked at them yet. I was the second to order and I had ordered the E36 M3 covers in black with embroidering as well as E30 sport seat covers in black. Hopefully I will install them tomorrow. Regards, Rich 95 M3 89 325is

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