E36M3 #1532

Thursday, August 09, 2001 00:32:52

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Peake Research Code Tool - from Ron Katona
#2. : BMW Roadside Assistance - from Paul Elliott
#3. Swaybar reinforcement, shock mounts, and other common questions and misconceptions - from James Clay
#4. Re: [E36M3] Buying used Double Spoke wheels - from Bora Akyol
#5. Re: [E36M3] : BMW Roadside Assistance - from Matt Henson
#6. Re: [E36M3] : BMW Roadside Assistance - from Michael Lawrence
#7. E36M3 Alarm System FS - from Daniel
#8. Strut Barbarian - from The Buch
#9. RE: [E36M3] Strut Barbarian - from Greg Cernosek
#10. Re: [E36M3] Peake Research Code Tool - from Chris Teague

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Peake Research Code Tool - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:23:43 -0400 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Peake Research Code Tool Ben Liaw wrote: > i bought one, when they first came out. only used it a few times (to reset > oil and service interval lights). > > does it work well? i guess the true test is if you had a check engine > light, plugged in the tool to determine the fault, replace/repaired the > vehicle based on that code, and the fault goes away. that would probably be > the true test, but that senario hasn't happened to me. Happened to me once. Check engine light came on two days before a national Solo-II event. Borrowed a friend's Peake tool and it returned an O2 sensor fault. Replaced O2 sensor. Check engine light went away. Also has worked fine for resetting service lights and is pretty idiot proof. -- Ron Katona

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#2. : BMW Roadside Assistance - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:40:34 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: : BMW Roadside Assistance I used it BIGTIME! When visiting Ron Steiger in the Hartford Ct vicinity, about 100 miles from my Westchester NY home, for my short shift kit installation, I was fussing with my throttle cable, which I thougtht had too much slack. I removed all the slack, and the first tromp on the gas pedal after the shift installation, and the cable snapped... Its no fun, as theres no way to wedge something in their, or use the cruise control to drive home...It just wouldnt work. CC doesnt work below 20 mph, so each time youd hit a stoplight, youd be dead. Thank good for Roadside Assistance. Who else at 11 pm on a Sat night would be able to raise a flatbed? It was through their relationship with the local police that they were able to find somebody...Without them, I'd have spent the night in the car in the middle of bumfXXX ct! --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads; Steiger SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#3. Swaybar reinforcement, shock mounts, and other common questions and misconceptions  - from James Clay
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Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:23:02 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Swaybar reinforcement, shock mounts, and other common questions and misconceptions <long> Just checking through some old emails, working a little late in the office tonight, thought I would chime in on this. Rear shock mounts - BMW mounts are fair. They are excellent for the application, generally last well, and E46 mounts are the ones to have for the E36. BUT, have someone drive your car while you sit in the trunk (not suggesting this for long periods or on roads!!), hit a couple of ridges in a parking lot, and you will watch the top of the shock move about 1/2". Not a terrible thing, the BMW mounts are able to take the continuous flex and under the circumstances are amazing. But you are completely wasting some of the damping capability of your shocks. Use a semi-solid piece or if you are serious about it and don't mind the stiffness, go with full solid mounts - we have Ground Control pieces on the E36 ITS car, no wear and they are excellent. Swaybar mounts - don't bother reinforcing them (really, see below) Swaybars - keep the stock bars. Explanation - swaybars keep the car from rolling, which is supposed to keep 4 wheels more firmly planted on the ground. In reality, you kind of keep four wheels on the ground because the bar is lifting the inside tires up to accomplish this - a stiffer bar lifts the inside more. Lighter bars keep both front wheels on the ground in turn-in, making it more effective (not necessarily sharper feeling, but you can go into the turn faster). Lighter bars in the rear allow you to get on the power earlier through a turn because both tires are firmly planted on the track. OK, this isn't optimum but every bar I have tried is way to stiff. I would like to have a good light aftermarket bar with holes or blades for adjustment, but it isn't out there. We are probably going to cut up a set of UUC tubulars (GASP!) and convert to blade ends so we will be able to loosen them up and get some bar tunability back. For most "spring kits", stiff adjustable swaybars are a crutch to compensate for soft springs (in an effort to keep a good street feel - the bars do the work, way more than they should, they break the stock mounts). Bullhooie, you say. I agree. A few years ago I was talking to someone at Shine Racing - a German car race shop. They get the balance of a car right with springs mostly, use a light bar on the undriven end and none on the driven end (the rear for us, you are trying to keep the rear wheels on the ground under acceleration out of turns). Interesting I thought, but dismissed it. However, I am finally able to do a lot of testing and go for some out there ideas once in a while. So we build an E30, stock 2.5L M50 engine, Ground Control suspension from an old racecar, stock front bar (325e), no rear bar (full interior, street car) - it's testing time. First time on the track with it was at VIR with Tarheel a few weeks ago. The car rolled more than I am used to, for an E30 and definitely more than an E36. BUT IT HOOKS UP! It was faster than every car there that I remember, except for the full blown racecars (and only about half of those). So this is interesting stuff, let's try it on the racecar. We swap out the UUC bars for a set of stock M3, run a few laps, change the shock valving a little to compensate, go back out and bang - a little over 1 full second off our lap times. These are consistent lap times, discounting laps that traffic had any effect. The car definitely feels different, almost loose and floaty in comparison, but this isn't always bad. At Road Atlanta last week, it floated over the curbing, not upsetting the balance, allowing a much more aggressive line. I doubt it is perfect yet (it was actually close before with the theory we were using). We are going to do some spring changes and play with shocks a little, get rid of the rear bar completely if time allows, and see what happens. It keeps getting better and we have overcome the plateau we reached with big bars. If your main concern is a good street ride (lighter springs) with occasional track use, heavy Stage Whatever bars are probably a good solution, you will need to reinforce the mounts, we use 1/8" steel and gusset if possible. I also know that a lot of the other shops out there use way heavy bars on their cars and I am sure disagree. But, I have lap after lap of data from our Stack DA system that illustrates and proves that this works - faster in, on the power earlier, faster out. If you already have the adjustability of a Ground Control setup or some other coilover kit that you can easily change spring rates, try it out. My $0.02, feel free to flog me publicly on the list for being disagreeable or email questions (I'll even put you in the spring rate ballpark). James ----------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance BMWCCA/SCCA Racecar Rental Genuine OEM and Used BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ----------------------------------------------------------- "Stop Lights Timed For 35mph Are Also Timed For 70mph."

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Buying used Double Spoke wheels - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 20:29:46 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Buying used Double Spoke wheels The tires are 100% tread Sumitomoto HTRZ II in front and 65% tread Re-71s in the back. The track tires are getting put on my 17x7.5 10 spoke 95 OEM wheels which currently have Re730s on them that are worn to the wear bars in 16 autocross and 8K miles in one year. I figured that this was an OK deal. I am not thrilled about the different tires on fronts and rears but I live in Northern CA and we don't even see that much rain so I figure that I will wear these down in about a year and get a matched set. Thanks Bora At 9:21 AM -0500 8/8/01, Matt Henson wrote: >Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 07:15:23 -0700 (PDT) >From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Buying used Double Spoke wheels > >$800 is about right for a set of the double spoke rims >in excelllent condition. These rims aren't excellent >but they have tires. You didn't mention which kind of >tire but I assume that they go for at least $150 each >new once they are mounted and balanced. So that's >$600 new, maybe worth $300 now. So if you're going to >keep these tires then it's like paying $500 for the >rims. Which is probably a good price for a set in >good condition. > >So, IMO, if the tires are decent then it's a good >deal. If they are crap and you'll have to replace >them soon then it's not. If you really want competion >tires and these are street tires then will you have to >replace them anyway? >-Matt > > >--- Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> wrote: >> Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 21:08:41 -0700 >> From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> >> Subject: Buying used Double Spoke wheels >> >> I am buying a set of double spokes off of a 98M3 >> (staggered) with tires >> allegedly with 100% tread on the front and 65% tread >> at the back. >> >> I haven't seen these wheels yet, but the seller is >> asking for 800 >> including the tires. >> >> I have seen pictures of the wheels and they have >> some minor scuffs on them. >> I have been told that they are not bent and they >> balance fine. >> >> So, is 800 a good price for these, or should I just >> order a set >> of Borbet's from Tirerack with Kumho's on them for >> 1200 or so. >> >> Any suggestion, comments appreciated. >> >> Bora > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger >http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* --

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#5. Re: [E36M3] : BMW Roadside Assistance - from Matt Henson
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Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 20:52:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] : BMW Roadside Assistance So how fast does the car go at idle in 5th gear with the A/C on? Maybe fast enough to get the cruise started? A good time to have a JimC chip with the higher idle for LTW Flywheel. -Matt > > Its no fun, as theres no way to wedge something in > their, or use the cruise > control to drive home...It just wouldnt work. CC > doesnt work below 20 mph, > so each time youd hit a stoplight, youd be dead. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

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#6. Re: [E36M3] : BMW Roadside Assistance - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:10:23 -0700 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] : BMW Roadside Assistance > Thank good for Roadside Assistance. Who else at 11 pm on a Sat night would be able to raise a flatbed Not to be nit picking points here, but any roadside service you have thru AAA, your own car insurance etc etc etc. They all use the same wreckers etc. The local wreckers are on a network that they all use. You are paying a premium for the BMW name on the exact same service they all offer. And I do believe the others give you a choice of where to tow to, when I checked the BMW asst, it is only to a dealer. And the fact I had a horrible experience with them might influence my opinion aswell. Just like every dealer out of 11 except for 1 (tom bush in jacksonville). BMW needs to let the japs school them on how to handle customers.

Reply to: Michael Lawrence <95m3ltw@home.com>

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#7. E36M3 Alarm System FS - from Daniel
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Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:34:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Daniel <m3_driver@yahoo.com> Subject: E36M3 Alarm System FS Coming off my '99M3 (in like new condition) Original BMW security system/keyless entry: -Main Unit -Siren -2 transmitters (one is brand new, never used) -Manual only thing missing is the led light...you should be able to get one from BMW or Radio Shack for very little. Asking $199.00 Thanks Daniel __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

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#8. Strut Barbarian - from The Buch
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Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 22:12:45 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Strut Barbarian I noticed that the UUC site is no longer advertising the strut tower brace. Is there anything I need to know about continuing to use this product on my '99 M3?? I have had no response from UUC themselves on this question. Thanks, DB

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#9. RE: [E36M3] Strut Barbarian - from Greg Cernosek
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Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:17:31 -0500 From: "Greg Cernosek" <gcernosek@inetx.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Strut Barbarian If you find out anything on this, please let me know. I have one on my 98 M3/4 and have been curious to know the answer to this one myself. Thanks in advance, Greg -----Original Message----- From: The Buch [mailto:the_buch@telus.net] Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 12:12 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Strut Barbarian Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 22:12:45 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Strut Barbarian I noticed that the UUC site is no longer advertising the strut tower brace. Is there anything I need to know about continuing to use this product on my '99 M3?? I have had no response from UUC themselves on this question. Thanks, DB ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Peake Research Code Tool - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:29:08 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Peake Research Code Tool It works great for me. I have used it for the Oil change light, and 2 check engine lights. Both were from a loose gas cap, but it saved my 2 trips to the dealer. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: <tristar500@mac.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 11:01 AM Subject: [E36M3] Peake Research Code Tool > Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:59:23 -0500 > From: "tristar500@mac.com" <tristar500@mac.com> > Subject: Peake Research Code Tool > > Anyone have one of these: > > http://www.peakeresearch.com/code_tool.shtml > > Do they work well? I'm almost ready to buy one and just need a little push. >

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