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#1. Re: [E36M3] motors in storage - from Matt Henson
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:17:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] motors in storage Yea, historically the problem with letting a motor sit is that the rubber seals, which need the oil to keep them "wet," dry out and fall apart when the engine is operated. You can be reasonably sure that the oil has drained into the pan so it's probably a good idea to change it. The new oil will help with the valves. Maybe also put a cc of oil into each cylinder to help with the valves? Maybe overkill. At least pull the fuel pump fuse or ignition fuse to crank it before it's allowed to start. I don't know how much modern seals are affected by the storage. Probably not a bad idea to change the front and rear crank seals and anything else that's a PITA to replace after installation. -Matt --- Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:54:18 -0700 > From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> > Subject: motors in storage > > I'm considering buying a motor that has been in > storage on the west > coast for 4 years. it's a '95 M3 motor. Does > anyone know what are > some of hte possible problems this motor could have > from being in > storage for so long, and what I should do to look it > over before > purchasing? > > (isn't there sometimes a problem with the seals > deteriorating?) > > Scott > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
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#2. Making My own HID Kit - from Bill P
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:12:18 -0400 From: "Bill P" <casanova@yorkhost.com> Subject: Making My own HID Kit Well from all the privates response to my question about www.procarparts.com <http://www.procarparts.com> I came to the conclusion that they use the German made Phillips ballast and cheap Taiwanese bulbs. Some have made comments that the Phillips ballasts are not that great also. What is everyone's opinion on that. =20 I have checked www.hids4less.com <http://www.hids4less.com> they sell an all=20 =20 Here is an excert from their site: =20 ----- All Components are OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturers) quality. In fact, we use the same exact type of bulbs and electronic control units that BMW, Mercedes, Acura, Lexus etc. uses. =20 All our kits are produced by our parent company, MTC Lighting. Manufactured in the USA to the strictest quality standards using state of the art machinery. Please visit the About Us Page for further details. =20 5 Year Limited Warranty. This warranty both covers the ballasts (also referred as the electronic control unit) and bulb =20 Plug and play installation. Installing our kit is not much harder than replacing your headlight bulbs. All kits come with a wiring harness and detailed instructions.=20 =20 2 types of electronic control units. Type I is the inverter and igniter integrated as one. Type II is a 2 piece system which allows for greater mounting options ----- =20 The type one kit is $609 and the Type 2 kit is $794. The type 2 kit not only features the 2 piece ballast but also 6000K Phillips bulbs that is supposed to be more purple and the same bulb used by =20 Here is an excerpt about the Stage 1 versus Stage 2 kit: =20 ---- The major difference is in found in the bulbs. Stage 2 bulbs run at 6000k and are composed of a gas mixture that emits a very purplish hue, Versus a Stage 1 kit, which run at 4300k, and emit a very white light. The stage 2 system is the same exact system found on the European Le = man Race cars. This system eclipses any other automotive lighting system on the market today. Nothing can even match the light output.=20 ---- =20 Has anyone dealt with this company? Has anyone seen the Stage 2 lights? Are they worth almost $200 more? What about the ballasts is 2 piece better then one piece? =20 I was thinking about buying OEM BMW or Other (Ford as UUC used) = ballasts and buying the bulbs only from these people. Would this work? The site does have a write up on how to use OEM ballasts and their bulbs. If anyone has a BMW Parts CD, how much do the OEM Ballasts cost? I would think the OEM units would be built better then the aftermarket stuff. =20 Thank You in Advance =20 Bill P =20 =20
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Making My own HID Kit - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:34:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Making My own HID Kit Be very cautious in the decisions you make or you might left with a bunch of expensive paper weights. The Ford ballasts are large, heavy and almost seem to use old technology (magnetic coil and capacitors come to mind...sometimes called a tar ballast..I think) whereas the Philips, Hella, etc ballasts are much lighter and might use an electronic ballast. The Ford ballasts also are not the same as the Philips or Hella units. The Ford HID bulb has the ignitor built into the back. The standard D2S/D2R bulb doesn't. You wouldn't be able to mix and match these pieces. I was also under the impression from Ed Tang that Philips actually makes a custom H1 base HID bulb (please correct me if I'm wrong). Ed's main point was that both the ProCarParts and Autolamps-Online kit used the same Philips ballast, but that the bulb quality was better on the Autolamps-Online kit because they were made by Philips; hence, the price premium. I have the ProCarParts kit sitting around while I get ready to install my new ellipsoids (as a consequence, old ellipsoids with custom modified reflectors that fit standard D2S bulbs will be coming off and for sale...e-mail me if you're interested). I can definitely say that the ProCarParts bulbs look cheap. They are definitely gutted D2S bulbs (base ripped off) that are shoved into a custom molded plastic base and held in by epoxy or something similar. Quality control is lacking and the bulbs are not always perpendicular to the base or perfectly centered. My impression from Ed was that his bulbs were perfect. If all of what I said was true, then I'd definitely go with the autolamps-online kit. When I made the recommendation to go with ProCarParts, I was unaware that there was a true Philips solution. Personally, I don't like ProCarParts...their customer service sucks. FWIW, Chester > Has anyone dealt with this company? Has anyone seen the Stage 2 lights? > Are they worth almost $200 more? What about the ballasts is 2 piece > better then one piece? > =20 > I was thinking about buying OEM BMW or Other (Ford as UUC used) = > ballasts > and buying the bulbs only from these people. Would this work? The site > does have a write up on how to use OEM ballasts and their bulbs. If > anyone has a BMW Parts CD, how much do the OEM Ballasts cost? I would > think the OEM units would be built better then the aftermarket stuff. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
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#4. M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? - from Philippe
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:36:34 -0400 From: "Philippe" <philooo@hotmail.com> Subject: M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? I was talking with a guy at Crutchfield and he is telling me that in my 1994 M3, passive crossover are not inside the amplifier but "attached" with the speaker. Can annyone comfirm this ? =20 I want to buy an amplifier, looking for a 4 channel, but I want to be sure about the crossover ! if not I will have to buy passive crossover and it will be better I think to go for an ADS 8 channel. =20 thank you for your help Philippe DAIX 1994 M3/2, Miami, Fl
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#5. RE: motors in storage - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 22:01:03 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: motors in storage If the motor was prepped properly before storage and stored properly, then it should be okay. If it was just pulled from the chassis and set aside, here are some of the things you may be buying: - fuel that has turned into varnish - siezed injectors - corrosion of internally lubricated parts (cylinder walls, camshaft, crankshaft, lifters, etc.) - "dry rotted" seals - corrosion of coolant passages in block and cylinder head Before you buy it, have someone remove the cylinder head cover and inspect the cam area. If possible, also have them remove the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft. Try to get a scope into the inside of the block through a coolant hose port to look for internal corrosion. Remove the fuel lines and fuel rail and drain them to see if fuel has been sitting in it for 4 years. It will be difficult to tell if the seals are leaking until after the engine is running, but if the rest of the engine has problems you can bet there are bad seals too. If the engine was properly drained of fluids, prepped for storage and stored dry (preferably in shrink wrap with dessicant) then it should be fine. Bob Stommel Just Bob Racing Indianapolis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:54:18 -0700 From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> Subject: motors in storage I'm considering buying a motor that has been in storage on the west coast for 4 years. it's a '95 M3 motor. Does anyone know what are some of hte possible problems this motor could have from being in storage for so long, and what I should do to look it over before purchasing? (isn't there sometimes a problem with the seals deteriorating?) Scott
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#6. Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? - from NickG
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 23:03:33 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? The guy at Crutchfield is incorrect. There are no external crossovers in the E36 M3 stereo system. All crossover functions are built into the factory amp. Nick > I was talking with a guy at Crutchfield and he is telling me that in my > 1994 M3, passive crossover are not inside the amplifier but "attached" > with the speaker. Can annyone comfirm this ? > =20 > I want to buy an amplifier, looking for a 4 channel, but I want to be > sure about the crossover ! if not I will have to buy passive crossover > and it will be better I think to go for an ADS 8 channel. > =20 > thank you for your help > Philippe DAIX > 1994 M3/2, Miami, Fl
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#7. Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? - from The Abels
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:18:50 -0500 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? Right. The internal crossovers really make the 'sound' (if you can call it that) system an all or nothing deal. Leave as is, or rip the whole thing out. I opted to rip the whole thing out. Great idea, but now I have this pesky issue of blowing out my stealthbox subs. ----- Original Message ----- From: NickG <nikog@MediaOne.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 10:07 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? > Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 23:03:33 -0400 > From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? > > The guy at Crutchfield is incorrect. There are no external crossovers in the > E36 M3 stereo system. All crossover functions are built into the factory > amp. > > Nick > > > I was talking with a guy at Crutchfield and he is telling me that in my > > 1994 M3, passive crossover are not inside the amplifier but "attached" > > with the speaker. Can annyone comfirm this ? > > =20 > > I want to buy an amplifier, looking for a 4 channel, but I want to be > > sure about the crossover ! if not I will have to buy passive crossover > > and it will be better I think to go for an ADS 8 channel. > > =20 > > thank you for your help > > Philippe DAIX > > 1994 M3/2, Miami, Fl > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:28:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? Nick is right about the crossover being built into the amp. I'm sure that the A/D/S 8 channel amp is a real piece of work but, if you're trying to maximize a budget, you might be better served going with a 4 channel amp, component speakers up front (with their own passive Xover) and some subs in the rear (I got the JL stealth boxes - love them). The stock head unit uses a balanced line level output. My PPI amp seems to decent job with the balanced input (its input grounds aren't connected to chassis ground or each other). It's probably a good idea to replace the head unit also, as the Tape and FM functions are just silly bad. You can probably also buy a balanced to RCA adapter but it'll be like $50. Of course all of this will cost $1000-$1500 minimum and all you wanted was an amp but hey, we gotta get this economy moving.. -Matt --- Philippe <philooo@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:36:34 -0400 > From: "Philippe" <philooo@hotmail.com> > Subject: M3 STEREO CROSSOVER ? > > > I was talking with a guy at Crutchfield and he is > telling me that in my > 1994 M3, passive crossover are not inside the > amplifier but "attached" > with the speaker. Can annyone comfirm this ? > =20 > I want to buy an amplifier, looking for a 4 channel, > but I want to be > sure about the crossover ! if not I will have to buy > passive crossover > and it will be better I think to go for an ADS 8 > channel. > =20 > thank you for your help > Philippe DAIX > 1994 M3/2, Miami, Fl > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
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#9. JC Stuff for the E46 M3 - from ERogers005@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 00:25:05 EDT From: ERogers005@aol.com Subject: JC Stuff for the E46 M3 Josh .... Thanks for sharing your thoughts. On another topic .. what evil machinations is Jim C. cooking up for the E46 M3? Can we expect a Shark Injector and/or some other goodies in the near future. Ed Rogers 95 M3 with JC stuff In a message dated 10/3/01 18:20:14, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: << Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 13:23:27 -0600 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: Re: Want a fast sports coupe?/E46M3/E36 3.2 cam kit
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#10. Disconnect coolant from throttle body? - from Rob
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Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 23:47:14 -0600 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Disconnect coolant from throttle body? Has anyone disconnected the coolant lines that run to the throttle body on a 3.0L M3?. Why are they there, is it just for faster warm-up, i..e emissions?. Would disconnecting them help to keep the intake charge cooler?. Rob - always looking for 1HP :)