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#1. Re: [E36M3] Peake Code Reader F6 code - from The Abels
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:20:09 -0500 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Peake Code Reader F6 code > Sometime ago I started getting the F6 code. > > It appears to have been fixed by cutting about 1/2" of old, hard vacum > hose from the connection to the secondary air check-valve. > > Item 6 of fig. 5 pg 130-5 of the Bentley book. muchas gracias. i've been getting the same error code; you've saved me from an excruciating trip to the dealer. jeff abel 97 m3/4
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#2. Successful weekend suspension project - from David Ngo
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 22:36:08 -0400 From: David Ngo <dngo@commvault.com> Subject: Successful weekend suspension project Hi everyone, This past weekend, with enormous amounts of help from Chester and Wayne Miller (thanks again guys!), I installed my new TCKline Streetline suspension. My car is a '98 sedan with a little over 50k miles on it, pretty much bone stock, with the original RSMs. For those unfamiliar with TC Kline's kit, it comes with Koni SA shocks and H&R OE Sport springs. My M3 is my daily driver, so I wanted minimal drop and just slightly stiffer springs even though I autocross regularly. I was much more interested in new shocks, since I started to notice that the car felt floaty at highway speeds and just didn't handle the way it used to. I've seen posts about stock shocks going bad with as few as 30k miles on them, so I was prepared for mine to be somewhat tired. They were far worse than I had imagined. When we drilled the first hole in the left front strut, we were prepared for a torrent of oil and gas to shoot out - instead, nothing came out at all. The right front strut was barely better, and the rear shocks were leaking underneath the top cap. We also replaced the RSMs (which had torn almost completely through) with E46M3 RSMs. The results are nothing short of amazing. On TC Kline's recommendation, we set the rears at 1 1/2 turns and the fronts at 1 full turn from soft. The car feels transformed - I've fallen in love with the car's handling all over again. If anyone with original shocks with significant miles is thinking about replacing them, do it right away. You won't regret it. The only thing I regret is forgetting to take initial height measurements to compare them with post-suspension install height. I can't wait to autocross the car this Saturday. Regards, Dave reborn 98 M3/4
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Spark plug for 95 M3 - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:42:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spark plug for 95 M3 There are at least two appropriate brands for the normally aspirated M3. You can go Bosch or NGK. Many of us with Turbo cars have found misfiring problems with the Bosch plugs so we typically use NGK. The requirements for a NA car are a lot less difficult so it doesn't matter as much. I'd probably still use the NGK even without the turbo. I think that the NGK pn is BRK6EK. Not quite sure about that except for the 6EK. They should be able to cross reference at the shop. -Matt --- bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 09:48:15 -0700 (PDT) > From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> > Subject: Spark plug for 95 M3 > > It's time to change the plugs and I was wondering if > there is a better plug for the 95 M3 than the stock > replacement. > > Tony > Tarheel BMWCCA > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. > http://personals.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Peake Code Reader F6 code - from Joseph Kannookadan
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 22:25:30 -0500 From: "Joseph Kannookadan" <joe.kannookadan@sourcelight.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Peake Code Reader F6 code reeallly strange... i just got that code also (1st CE light ever, at least while in my possession) on my 97 also. is it the colder weather approaching??? i couldn't find the fix/location in the bentley manual for the life of me... thanks! >you've saved me from an excruciating trip to the dealer. amen! --- joe -----Original Message----- From: The Abels [mailto:aAbel@austin.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 6:30 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Peake Code Reader F6 code Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:20:09 -0500 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Peake Code Reader F6 code > Sometime ago I started getting the F6 code. > > It appears to have been fixed by cutting about 1/2" of old, hard vacum > hose from the connection to the secondary air check-valve. > > Item 6 of fig. 5 pg 130-5 of the Bentley book. muchas gracias. i've been getting the same error code; you've saved me from an excruciating trip to the dealer. jeff abel 97 m3/4 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#5. Lighted Shift Knob... - from Brent Williams
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 00:18:23 -0400 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: Lighted Shift Knob... When I bought one it cost me $117 new at dealer. Brent
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#6. Anyone have experience with Bekkers Cylinder Head or Intake? - from Tommy
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:14:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Tommy <obd2m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Anyone have experience with Bekkers Cylinder Head or Intake? Just curious if anyone has any experience with any of these products? Please email me. http://bekkers.com/details.php3?HighPerformanceCylinderHead http://www.bekkers.com/details.php3?HighPerformanceIntakeSystemForRacingOnly TIA Tommy '99 M3 NY Chapter CCA __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Anyone have experience with Bekkers Cylinder Head or - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 22:02:43 +0000 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Anyone have experience with Bekkers Cylinder Head or Intake? on 10/22/01 4:44 AM, Tommy at obd2m3@yahoo.com wrote: > Just curious if anyone has any experience with any of > these products? Please email me. The cylinder head they offer is really just a ported and polished cylinder head with Schrick Cams. From what I've heard, the improvements of buying the complete head vs. simply running the cams is not enough to justify the ~$1500 difference. - peterg '95 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Successful weekend suspension project - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 02:19:41 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Successful weekend suspension project Dave writes: > This past weekend, with enormous amounts of help from Chester and Wayne > Miller (thanks again guys!), I installed my new TCKline Streetline > suspension. My car is a '98 sedan with a little over 50k miles on it, > pretty much bone stock, with the original RSMs. <snip> > I've seen posts about stock shocks going bad with as few as 30k miles on > them, so I was prepared for mine to be somewhat tired. They were far worse > than I had imagined. I consider the Boge OEM struts to be junk after 30K miles. If you take them off the car, it is amazing how little dampening they do. The shaft moves up and down effortlessly. Koni and Bilstein are truly about 50x stiffer. What I can't figure out is why they don't fail the typical "bounce" test. I'm sure BMW wound never replace them under warranty for this reason. But as you noticed, handling does deteriorate. <snip> > We also replaced the RSMs > (which had torn almost completely through) with E46M3 RSMs. The stock E36M3 RSMs are almost as worthless as the front struts. ;-) I recommend the Ground Control RSM as replacement. The GC RSMs are WAY easier to remove than anything else. How much were the E46M3 RSMs? The GC are $98. I can't imagine the BMW parts are much cheaper. > If anyone with original shocks with significant miles is thinking > about replacing them, do it right away. You won't regret it. I agree!! I discovered this with just 41K on my M3. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilstein shocks/struts, JTD RSMs Dallas, Texas
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Successful weekend suspension project - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 06:18:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Successful weekend suspension project > The stock E36M3 RSMs are almost as worthless as the front struts. ;-) I > recommend the Ground Control RSM as replacement. The GC RSMs are WAY easier > to remove than anything else. How much were the E46M3 RSMs? The GC are $98. > > I can't imagine the BMW parts are much cheaper. Dave bought the E46M3 RSMs from me for $55 with the reinforcement plates. If you do Ron Stygar's mod and bang out the studs out of the RSM and weld them into the reinforcement plate, then the RSM gets secured by the nuts from the bottom. To remove and reinstall require the removal and installation of new nust from the wheel well...very simple. Subsequent RSM replacement will be in the area of $30 (new RSMs, new gaskets, new self locking nuts, etc). I'm not sure how much replacement cartridges cost for the GC units. Also, I've never completely agreed with the design of the RSMs sold by GC or JTD (though JTD RSMs sit in my car until I have the energy to remove the stealth boxes to take them out and install the E46M3 parts). The design premise is such that there are two separate bushings (one from the top and one from the bottom) inserted into the bushing carrier. There is a aluminum lip in the middle to separate the bushings and prevent them from going through. Well, you can visualize that when you load up the rear strut, the bottom bushing will compress. The top bushing doesn't get stretched...it just remains there. So that you'd actually get a gap from the top strut nut, top washer and top-most bushing. When the strut is unloaded, there is a potential for the top nut to come crashing back the the top bushing. Perhaps this doesn't happen on slow transitioning loads like a slalom, but I suspect that it might happen on bumps (and where I live in NYC, bumps are very frequent). Just my observations. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#10. RSM's and Shocks - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:36:17 -0400 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: RSM's and Shocks Hello List, Thanks to all who helped answer my question regarding my Temp. gauge acting up.... seems it is a bad connection in the sensor itself. On my way home from my trip from PA to Boston yesterday, I was accelerating onto the highway with a car load of two other people and some luggage. There was a slight bump on the ramp and I hit it while accelerating, inducing some wheelspin. After that, there was a terribly loud squeak and/or clunk which was coming from the RSM area. I am assuming I blew my RSM. Anyway, I drove for about 250 miles listening to A LOT of clanking and squeaking. (Talk about annoying). My question is this: Am I doing any damage to the car by driving with a blown RSM? I cant think of anything off the top of my head. I won't be able to swap out the RSM's and Struts until this weekend, so is it OK to drive with this NONSTOP rattle? Sounds like my shocks are going to go through the roof! What is a good East Coast dealer to purchase RSM's from? Secondly, since I am going to swap my RSMs and add the Z3 reinforcements, I figured I might as well replace the stock struts with 85K miles. What is the best shock to work in conjunction with the stock springs? Its my understanding that it is between the Konis and the Bilsteins. I know this is very subjective but any input would be appreciated. (I also bet this topic has been beaten to death.. sorry!) Thanks, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#11. Dinan Stage I vs. H&R Coilovers - from The Buch
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 07:43:46 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Dinan Stage I vs. H&R Coilovers These systems seem to be very close in price. I would appreciate any advice on relative performance benefits and tradeoffs. Would the fenders require rolling in either case? How much gain would I get by just replacing the shocks with a better-than-OEM option and leaving the springs alone (I understand that the shocks will be pretty weak by 50,000 miles?)?