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#1. coilovers - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:28:48 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: coilovers > Sounds like a good discussion about coil overs. Weeeeee... :) This guy makes the arguement that you're likely to end up making your car handle worse with coilovers. This is true if you slam your car to the ground or if you are careless with the ride heights... Cornerweighting is important. I set my car with the ride heights I wanted. I had the corner weights checked. Guess how much I was off? 3% LF-RR to RF-LR. :) Pretty good for a tape measure job... I ended up just evening out both front and rear... First of all, that was better than stock on my car. (4%) Second of all, am I good enough to use a 1% cross weight difference? heck no! Empirically, the car went from doing 2:21s stock with street tires, to 2:18s H&R coilovers + street tires to 2:13s H&R coilovers + dying race tires. :) (hawk blues were the pad of choice...) The car still has stock sway bars for now, too. (anyone in the bay area have a set of stock sway bars for sale? :) -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#2. re: Koni single adjustables and LTW springs - from andy radin
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 11:30:10 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: re: Koni single adjustables and LTW springs "Anyone on the list using the Koni single adjustable shocks with a full set of real LTW springs? Do they work and better than the stock Boge for that application?" Well, my 98 coupe now has Konis and the 31-33-2-228-171 front springs (Euro coupe springs, which I had thought were the same as the US LTW springs... anyone?). I read everywhere that the rear Euro / LTW springs are no different from the US rear springs. The shocks are great, except of course that the rears are hard to adjust. I haven't yet felt the need to adjust those, but next time they're off the car I might stiffen them up a bit. Nice stable ride, well controlled, not the least bit harsh. The springs are some 10% stiffer by the wire diameter, and same the free length. Less brake dive was immediately noticeable by the dipping of the Euro lamp cutoff. A little more tossable in the corners. My car has power seats and sunroof options-wise, and the Euro coupe springs raised the ride height 1 cm. YMMV. andy r.
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#3. STICKERS - from Mark Greene
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:42:48 -0400 From: Mark Greene <gsa@arpinintl.com> Subject: STICKERS After the voting is the plan to make stickers? I just got some of those static cling plasticy things from Mobil (flag) and that is really cool. thanks, mark
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#4. Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:46:21 -0400 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued Hello List, After talking with Turner Motorsports and other people, (thanks Chester and Rob), it seems like I am going to need to have the rear shock tower replaced and welded. Turner said they did one for less that $1000, both sides, which seems like a deal. Only problem is that they are backed up until Dec. In the meantime, I am going to try and rig something using the Z3 reinforcement plates. Hopefully that can hold me until I can get into a good shop. Does any parts supplier stock the Z3 reinforcement plates? I have tried about 6 that are listed in the back of BIMMER with no luck. Thanks, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#5. Oil Starvation - pump or lifters? - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:48:57 EDT From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: Oil Starvation - pump or lifters? For those of you with significant skid pad and or track time experience: Is the lifter ticking noise we hear after several minutes on the skid pad due to the lifter losing it's oil due to g-force load, or is it due the oil pump being unable to supply oil to the lifters due to the g-force load? I believe it is the latter, although I wanted to check with the group. If it is due to a lack of consistent oil supply to the oil pump, is it possible to directly bolt on the dual pick-up (and baffled) oil sump from a Euro 3.2l M3 motor? It seems logical that this would solve the problem. Thanks in advance, John '95 Avus Blue M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Hoosiers, Perellis - from Todd C. Merrill
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:55:52 -0400 (EDT) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Hoosiers, Perellis On Sat, 20 Oct 2001, Vern Anderson wrote: > that runs on Hoosier slicks for SCCA and then has to run Hoosier DOT > tires for the other local series that won't allow slicks. When he runs > slicks, he almost always beats me, but when he is forced to run DOT > tires, I almost always take him. Could someone explain or provide a link that outlines what the differences are among all the tire terms: street tire, track tire, DOT tire, slick, competition tire, etc. And where the popular tires and brands (Hoosiers, R1's, Kumhos, A032, etc) fall into those categories? I think I have been mixing up my terminology and don't want to continue to sound like an idiot. Until next time... Todd 1998 BMW M3 coupe, nearly gone S02's after 2 more days at NHIS this past weekend BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter ---
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued - from Matt Henson
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 11:57:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued Huh.. at 87K most stock shocks are totally useless. I wonder why they exerted enough force to crack your shock towers. You'll definitely want to check to make sure that the shock isn't binding or something. Did anyone ever have real coilovers on the rear of the car?Maybe it was just the rust (how did that get there??). Does BMW have an anti-corrosion warranty? Seems like I recall 10 years, 100K miles or something. Maybe this would be covered under that. -Matt --- morris.michael@adlittle.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:46:21 -0400 > From: morris.michael@adlittle.com > Subject: Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued > > > Hello List, > > After talking with Turner Motorsports and other > people, (thanks Chester and > Rob), it seems like I am going to need to have the > rear shock tower > replaced and welded. Turner said they did one for > less that $1000, both > sides, which seems like a deal. Only problem is > that they are backed up > until Dec. In the meantime, I am going to try and > rig something using the > Z3 reinforcement plates. Hopefully that can hold me > until I can get into a > good shop. > > Does any parts supplier stock the Z3 reinforcement > plates? I have tried > about 6 that are listed in the back of BIMMER with > no luck. > > Thanks, > Mike Morris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 15:18:13 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued Hmmm, Matt makes a good point.....If your shock mount sheet metal is rusted (and you have a stock suspension setup), you should look into BMW covering the damage under warranty. According to the warranty booklet from my '95 M3, it has a 6year/unlimited mileage rust perforation warranty. Nick > Huh.. at 87K most stock shocks are totally useless. I > wonder why they exerted enough force to crack your > shock towers. You'll definitely want to check to make > sure that the shock isn't binding or something. Did > anyone ever have real coilovers on the rear of the > car?Maybe it was just the rust (how did that get > there??). Does BMW have an anti-corrosion warranty? > Seems like I recall 10 years, 100K miles or something. > Maybe this would be covered under that. > > -Matt > > Hello List, > > > > After talking with Turner Motorsports and other > > people, (thanks Chester and > > Rob), it seems like I am going to need to have the > > rear shock tower > > replaced and welded. Turner said they did one for > > less that $1000, both > > sides, which seems like a deal. Only problem is > > that they are backed up > > until Dec. In the meantime, I am going to try and > > rig something using the > > Z3 reinforcement plates. Hopefully that can hold me > > until I can get into a > > good shop. > > > > Does any parts supplier stock the Z3 reinforcement > > plates? I have tried > > about 6 that are listed in the back of BIMMER with > > no luck. > > > > Thanks, > > Mike Morris
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:19:38 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked Rear Shock Tower Continued > After talking with Turner Motorsports and other people, (thanks Chester and > Rob), it seems like I am going to need to have the rear shock tower > replaced and welded. Turner said they did one for less that $1000, both > sides, which seems like a deal. Only problem is that they are backed up A few things to consider: - This is a fairly common failure item. I personally know of 4 people who this has happened to. As far as I understand, there is actually a replacement tower available. Any body shop should be able to cut away the old tower, and weld on the new one. - Since rust was involved, if your car is under the mileage/age of BMWs corrosion warranty I would attempt to make them pay for it. Bring it to a dealer and then see what they say. If they deny it, read up on the warranty and then bring the matter to a CCA Ombudsman. They may be able to make it happen. Just remember, warranty issues are dealt with directly by BMWNA so don't be rude to the service guys. - I recommended to a fellow local auto-x'er to attempt to put it to his insurance when this happened to his '95 325is. Call it "excessive pot hole damage". ;-) He successfully got the whole repair covered by his insurance. I had an axle snap on my wife's 328i (how random is that?) and my insurance covered the $7k repair bill. I would not attempt to put in a quick fix. You run the risk of causing even more damage, and potentially destroying any chance you have of a third party covering the repair. Not to mention, it's really not safe. Good luck. I hope you don't have to shell out for the $1k repair bill. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Re: Hoosiers, Perellis - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:18:10 -0700 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Hoosiers, Perellis > Could someone explain or provide a link that outlines what > the differences are among all the tire terms: street tire, > track tire, > DOT tire, slick, competition tire, etc. And where the popular tires > and brands (Hoosiers, R1's, Kumhos, A032, etc) fall into > those categories? > I think I have been mixing up my terminology and don't want > to continue to > sound like an idiot. The Tire Rack might be a good place to start. Here's my view on this. There's basically 2 types of tires, street & track tires. Street tires shouldn't need much of an explaination, they usually have deep tread to move water away and have a higher treadwear rating (compared to track tires). Examples of course are Michelin Pilot Sports, Yokohama AVS Sports, Bridgestone SO-3, etc. Track tires (or competition tires or R-compound tires) have a low (or zero) treadwear rating, offer more grip than street tires, usually don't have as deep a tread (but not always). MOst I believe are DOT tires, but will be mark "For competition events only" - I know the Toyo RA-1s are marked in this manner. Examples are Hoosier A3SO3/R3SO3, Toyo RA-1, Yokohama AO32 (although some think this is a street tire, Hi Donna!), Kumho V700 Victoracer, BFG R1. Slicks are just that, tires with no tread mold into them whatsoever. Goddyear & Hoosier are two companies that I know make slicks that I've seen on "street" cars at the track. Some tire manufacturers make both street & track tires, notably Toyo, Kumho, and Yokohama. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4