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#1. 95 M3 hesitaton problem - from bmw
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 13:00:49 -0700 (PDT) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: 95 M3 hesitaton problem Help, in the last 3K miles the car has developed a hesitation problem right when you take off. The car wants to bogg down, it is worse when the engine is cold but still does it when warm. Any suggestions on what to look for. The car has 54k miles and no track time. Tony Tarheel BMWCCA __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Oil Starvation - pump or lifters? - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 21:10:50 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Starvation - pump or lifters? As a sidenote I run Kendall non-synthetic and have *NO* lifter noise after racing. Just an FYI for everyone. Mark From: AVUSM3@aol.com Reply-To: AVUSM3@aol.com To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Oil Starvation - pump or lifters? Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:00:12 -0500 Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:48:57 EDT From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: Oil Starvation - pump or lifters? For those of you with significant skid pad and or track time experience: Is the lifter ticking noise we hear after several minutes on the skid pad due to the lifter losing it's oil due to g-force load, or is it due the oil pump being unable to supply oil to the lifters due to the g-force load? I believe it is the latter, although I wanted to check with the group. If it is due to a lack of consistent oil supply to the oil pump, is it possible to directly bolt on the dual pick-up (and baffled) oil sump from a Euro 3.2l M3 motor? It seems logical that this would solve the problem. Thanks in advance, John '95 Avus Blue M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Hoosiers, Perellis - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:35:20 -0400 From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Hoosiers, Perellis Todd, Jim's post just about covers it. There are a few other companies that make slicks (non-DOT comp tires) such as Yokohama, Michelin and Avon (sp?). Goodyear and Hoosier are the most common ones, at least for touring car sizes. Avon seems to be popular for many open-wheel car sizes. I think Yokohama and Michelin slicks must be for very large sizes only (18"+), hard to get unless you're a pro or just very, very expensive as I never see them at local SCCA club races. Or maybe they just aren't any good, but I think PTG and others would use good tires. The only other thing that I've been told about slicks (Goodyears and Hoosiers) are that they drive very different than DOT Hoosiers. Several folks who have run them have said that you can drive the car much harder and that they like very large slip angles. They said that where a DOT Hoosier is at it's best when you drive pretty tidy and precise, a slick can be abused quite a bit and overdriven and it will still perform. They said they perform similar to the bias-ply Hoosier autox tires; tires that like to move around quite a bit. Another tire category I personally experienced Sunday - All-season mud-and-snow Firestone's on an F-Stock Camaro Z28 (I co-drove a friend's car at a local event). Be afraid, very afraid. Going from a Street Prepared M3 on Hoosiers to a bone-stock Z28 on all-season tires is too much of a transition for me. So far below "Street Tire" add another catagory - "Object that is shaped like a tire, but performs like a wheel covered in black grease" Vern 98 M3/2 with no plans to every autox on crappy street tires ever again...... -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:55:52 -0400 (EDT) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Hoosiers, Perellis On Sat, 20 Oct 2001, Vern Anderson wrote: > that runs on Hoosier slicks for SCCA and then has to run Hoosier DOT > tires for the other local series that won't allow slicks. When he runs > slicks, he almost always beats me, but when he is forced to run DOT > tires, I almost always take him. Could someone explain or provide a link that outlines what the differences are among all the tire terms: street tire, track tire, DOT tire, slick, competition tire, etc. And where the popular tires and brands (Hoosiers, R1's, Kumhos, A032, etc) fall into those categories? I think I have been mixing up my terminology and don't want to continue to sound like an idiot. Until next time... Todd 1998 BMW M3 coupe, nearly gone S02's after 2 more days at NHIS this past weekend BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter --- -- Vern Anderson Director, Solutions Group Cerebellum Software, Inc. Office: (412) 208-6544 Cell: (412) 716-3126 Fax: (412) 208-6521 email: vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com
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#4. Need Some Wheel Advice - from Steve Sun
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 16:43:54 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Need Some Wheel Advice Hi all, I'm in the market for some Fikse wheels in the 17-in variety for the M3. I'm set on getting 17x8.5 (37.7mm ofset) for the fronts with 245/40-17 tires. My question is for the back wheels. Should I stay with 8-in width or should I get the 17x9 with 44mm offset? Fikse has told me that they will fit with no fender rolling. Does anyone have 17x9-in wheels in the back? Do they look better than the 8.5s? Will the wheels be too wide for 245, or should I go with 255 in the back? I'm inclined to go with 245 in the back with 9-in wheels. Any advice? Thanks in advance, Steve
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#5. [E36M3] FS MechTech Turbo kit. - from Anthony Pun
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:56:48 -0400 From: "Anthony Pun" <turbom3@home.com> Subject: [E36M3] FS MechTech Turbo kit. Hey Everyone, I have a MechTech Turbo kit for sale. http://www.mechtech-ms.com/ <http://www.mechtech-ms.com/> It was on my car for approximately 2 years. Prior to that, it was Suzy's. Here are some pictures of the pieces... http://www.anthonypun.com/cgi-bin/image?dir=MechTech <http://www.anthonypun.com/cgi-bin/image?dir=MechTech> (must have XML compatible browser to view). Please notice the coating is coming off one of the intercooler pipes, and the filter is probably going to need to be replaced. Priced to move! $1500 + shipping. Thanks, Tony 2002 M3 http://www.anthonypun.com/cgi-bin/image?dir=2002M3 <http://www.anthonypun.com/cgi-bin/image?dir=2002M3>
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#6. Answers to Chester's questions. - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:53:22 EDT From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: Answers to Chester's questions. from Jay M, regarding Ground Control stuff: RSM bolt crashing? The urethane centers are preloaded, according to the supplied directions in order to best simulate the behavior of rubber, without the shennanigans. RSM urethane center lifepsan? The GC pieces are guaranteed for however long you own the car, even after I am dead. It is in my living will. (not kidding). Our replacement percentage after 4 years is a bit less than 1/2 of 1%. About adjusting sway bar links into different holes. Ok, I am closer to SF than Chester, but not THAT close. I am responding because I am one of the people who recommends trying different holes for adjustment. (get your mind out of the gutter). Instead of both bar adjustments on stiff, or both on soft, try one in each hole. (I said get out of the gutter). The MAXIMUM error introduced can be calculated thanks to some smart Pythagorea guy. The front link is 9.5 inches center to center. The distance between holes is 0.8 inches. Assuming that they are at right angles, which they always will be at some point of wheel travel, 9.5 squared is 90.25. 0.8 squared is 0.64, the sum is 90.89. Square root of 90.89 is 9.53, for a total change in length of three tenths of an inch. (0.030). So is the tradeoff of introducing 0.030 error worth the risk of preventing an incorrectly adjusted swaybar? I say it is worth a try. The sheet metal flexes much more than 0.030 anyway. (I know, I measured.) P.S. The sheetmetal flexes up and down, not outward. The BMW engineers are VERY good. Obligatory list of possesions within my grasp: 1 Computer 1 Miller High Life 1 Calculator (sorry, I don't do square roots in my head.) 1 BMW Matchbox car on top of my monitor.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Need Some Wheel Advice - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 18:07:37 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Some Wheel Advice Steve, The M Coupe/Roadster has 9" rear wheels with 245's, so the wheels are OK for 245's. I have seen others run the 9" wheels on the M3, and they are a very close fit, but they do look good. I would go with the 9's myself. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Sun" <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:14 PM Subject: [E36M3] Need Some Wheel Advice > Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 16:43:54 -0500 (CDT) > From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> > Subject: Need Some Wheel Advice > > Hi all, I'm in the market for some Fikse wheels in the 17-in variety > for the M3. I'm set on getting 17x8.5 (37.7mm ofset) for the fronts with > 245/40-17 tires. My question is for the back wheels. Should I stay with > 8-in width or should I get the 17x9 with 44mm offset? Fikse has told me > that they will fit with no fender rolling. Does anyone have 17x9-in > wheels in the back? Do they look better than the 8.5s? Will the wheels > be too wide for 245, or should I go with 255 in the back? I'm inclined to > go with 245 in the back with 9-in wheels. Any advice? > > Thanks in advance, > > Steve > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Need Some Wheel Advice - from reed nicholson
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 01:41:49 From: "reed nicholson" <reedthis48@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Some Wheel Advice >Hi all, I'm in the market for some Fikse wheels in the 17-in variety >for the M3. I'm set on getting 17x8.5 (37.7mm ofset) for the fronts with >245/40-17 tires. My question is for the back wheels. Should I stay with >8-in width or should I get the 17x9 with 44mm offset? Fikse has told me >that they will fit with no fender rolling. Does anyone have 17x9-in >wheels in the back? Do they look better than the 8.5s? Will the wheels >be too wide for 245, or should I go with 255 in the back? I'm inclined to >go with 245 in the back with 9-in wheels. Any advice? > Steve, I have Fikse FM-10s in 9x17 on the rear of my 98 M3, with 245's. No clearance problems, they look good. The 245's fit fine on the 9's. Reed/Seattle _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#9. Re: Spark plug for 95 M3 - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 02:40:05 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Spark plug for 95 M3 I agree. My car came with Bosch plugs. When it was time to change them (last summer), I purchased a set of BMW plugs from the dealer. I was suprised to see that they were NGK rather than Bosch. 10k miles later, the engine is running just fine with the NGK plugs. -rb >Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:42:17 -0700 (PDT) >From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spark plug for 95 M3 > >There are at least two appropriate brands for the >normally aspirated M3. You can go Bosch or NGK. Many >of us with Turbo cars have found misfiring problems >with the Bosch plugs so we typically use NGK. The >requirements for a NA car are a lot less difficult so >it doesn't matter as much. I'd probably still use the >NGK even without the turbo. I think that the NGK pn >is BRK6EK. Not quite sure about that except for the >6EK. They should be able to cross reference at the >shop. >-Matt > >--- bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 09:48:15 -0700 (PDT) > > From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Spark plug for 95 M3 > > > > It's time to change the plugs and I was wondering if > > there is a better plug for the 95 M3 than the stock > > replacement. > > > > Tony > > Tarheel BMWCCA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#10. [E36M3] CE Light and Knock Sensors - from RogRacer@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:28:06 EDT From: RogRacer@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] CE Light and Knock Sensors A quick question about the behavior of the Check Engine light. Mine has begun a brief flicker occuring perhaps once every few days. My Peak Research code reader indicates a fault in knock sensor #2. My question is: Why does the CE light not stay illuminated? Does this mean that the Knock Sensor is, in fact, actually working when the light is "off" (99.99% of the time). Or, once the code is stored, is this circuit ignored completely and the ECU revert to (perhaps) more conservative mappings? If the later is true, I would think that the CE light should stay on. Anybody understand the programming enough to answer this? Thanks in advance, Roger W. Graves RogRacer@aol.com '95 M3