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#1. So, who wants to vote on a sticker? - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:14:44 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: So, who wants to vote on a sticker? It's up and it isn't as easy a decision as some think it will be. The simple instructions for those that live in the state of Florida are: You can click on any image to see a larger version without voting. The dot to the RIGHT of the image is the one for that image. When you click on submit, you will see a confirmation page with the larger size image. If you are still having difficulty at this point, you don't deserve to vote anyway. Now this is supposed to be a fair vote and I could have had a sophisticated system built in that will only allow you to vote once but I didn't so all of you are on the honor system here. The link is: http://216.35.67.130/stickers/ If you would like to just see the results, click here: http://216.35.67.130/stickers/results.asp I propose an arbitrary ending date of next Monday, October 29th at 5pm EST. This should be enough time for everyone to make their decision. I will look into printing options next. If you already did, please send me the details that you found. -Wayne '99 M3/2 with just about everything
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#2. Re: Need Some Wheel Advice - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:22:35 -0400 From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> Subject: Re: Need Some Wheel Advice Steve, One thing to keep in mind is that if you stay with 8.5"'s and 245 tires all around, you can easily rotate wheels to any corner. For some of us, who run nasty camber (we all know who we are) this is a big issue. All three of my sets of wheels (street, track, autox) are "non-staggered" just because of that. I run 245 Hoosiers on 17x9 SSR's and they fit just fine, both on the rim and under the rear fenders (mine are rolled, but I think they would fit anyway). It is a tight fit in the rear, but a 245 Hoosier is a very big tire (the same size as most 255's). Vern Anderson Who has far to many sets of rims for his M3, at least according to his spouse :) -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 16:43:54 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Need Some Wheel Advice Hi all, I'm in the market for some Fikse wheels in the 17-in variety for the M3. I'm set on getting 17x8.5 (37.7mm ofset) for the fronts with 245/40-17 tires. My question is for the back wheels. Should I stay with 8-in width or should I get the 17x9 with 44mm offset? Fikse has told me that they will fit with no fender rolling. Does anyone have 17x9-in wheels in the back? Do they look better than the 8.5s? Will the wheels be too wide for 245, or should I go with 255 in the back? I'm inclined to go with 245 in the back with 9-in wheels. Any advice? Thanks in advance, Steve
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#3. re: Oil Starvation- pump or lifters? - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:37:01 -0500 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: re: Oil Starvation- pump or lifters? John, As far as I can tell it is not starvation based. It is based on the viscosity of the oil. The oil at high temperatures gets to such a thin viscosity that it drains from the lifter and starts ticking. After letting the engine cool a bit and then raising the RPM's slowly the noise goes away, or the oil returns to the lifter and rebuilds pressure insdie the lifter. Once the oil reaches the lifter, the only reason for it to leave is for the viscosity to become to thin. I switched to 20w- 50 and have had no lifter noise since then. The other side of that and the reason that people are saying that is not the case for my car is that maintaining lifter pressure is also based on the mechanical abilities of the lifter. They are not all perfect. Some people have no noise because all of their lifters are mechanically sound. I believe that my car has one bad one. The bad part is that it is hard to tell which one is bad. Is it worth changing them all for that noise? Not until I buy cams ;^). My two cents. Happy Motoring. Kris=20
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#4. Re: [E36M3] CE Light and Knock Sensors - from NickG
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:48:49 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CE Light and Knock Sensors The CE light illuminates with a knock sensor fault when the DME runs its diagnostic check on the knock sensors and doesn't 'hear' something it likes. This typically happens around 3000rpm and very light throttle (like getting ready to shift gears). The CE light will stay on if the fault isn't intermittent. I had a problem with my car registering such a fault code. Every day, after a hot soak condition, the CE would flash a few times (with code 1226, knock sensor #2). Suprisingly, after changing the spark plugs (which were wasted), the CE light flashing has gone away. Nick '95 M3 turbo > A quick question about the behavior of the Check Engine light. Mine has begun a brief flicker occuring perhaps once every few days. My Peak Research code reader indicates a fault in knock sensor #2. My question is: Why does the CE light not stay illuminated? Does this mean that the Knock Sensor is, in fact, actually working when the light is "off" (99.99% of the time). Or, once the code is stored, is this circuit ignored completely and the ECU revert to (perhaps) more conservative mappings? If the later is true, I would think that the CE light should stay on. Anybody understand the programming enough to answer this? > > Thanks in advance, > Roger W. Graves > RogRacer@aol.com > '95 M3
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#5. Repairing my Cracked Rear Shock Tower - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:16:41 -0400 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Repairing my Cracked Rear Shock Tower Hello List, Thanks to those who responded with their experiences with their cracked rear shock towers and how they fixed it. If I am lucky, the BMW 6 year anti-corrosion warranty might cover it. I might be out of date though since my car is a '95. I have a local dealer checking on it right now for me. If the warranty does not work, it looks like I have 2 options: 1. Have the dealer do it for between $500-$1000. Looks like new, painted, coated with anti-corrosion, etc. 2. Have a welder do it for below $200. Will look like it was slapped on, but it will work, and it will be covered by the carpeting for no one to see. : ) My questions are as follows: 1. Does BMW sell the spray-on or paint-on anti-corrosion coating, that rubbery like substance found underneath our cars? If not them, would an AUTOZONE or NAPA carry a suitable substitute? I will need this to coat the underside of the tower if I get a welder to perform the fix. 2. What damage do I risk by not having the shock tower holes perfectly to spec? (A.K.A having the welder perform the fix.) Any other advice from those who have done this themselves, and from those who have done some post-repair painting would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Repairing my Cracked Rear Shock Tower - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 15:48:49 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Repairing my Cracked Rear Shock Tower If you want my opinion (you are going to get it anyway) just have it done correctly by the dealer. You want this car to last which means all the rust needs to be properly removed and new anti-corrison coating put on. Rust cancer is very difficult to deal with and if not dealt with correctly can become a big problem. Just spend the extra hundreds and get it done right. Hey at least you'll help keep America moving?? (HAHAHAH) Mark From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Reply-To: morris.michael@adlittle.com To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Repairing my Cracked Rear Shock Tower Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:29:44 -0500 Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:16:41 -0400 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Repairing my Cracked Rear Shock Tower Hello List, Thanks to those who responded with their experiences with their cracked rear shock towers and how they fixed it. If I am lucky, the BMW 6 year anti-corrosion warranty might cover it. I might be out of date though since my car is a '95. I have a local dealer checking on it right now for me. If the warranty does not work, it looks like I have 2 options: 1. Have the dealer do it for between $500-$1000. Looks like new, painted, coated with anti-corrosion, etc. 2. Have a welder do it for below $200. Will look like it was slapped on, but it will work, and it will be covered by the carpeting for no one to see. : ) My questions are as follows: 1. Does BMW sell the spray-on or paint-on anti-corrosion coating, that rubbery like substance found underneath our cars? If not them, would an AUTOZONE or NAPA carry a suitable substitute? I will need this to coat the underside of the tower if I get a welder to perform the fix. 2. What damage do I risk by not having the shock tower holes perfectly to spec? (A.K.A having the welder perform the fix.) Any other advice from those who have done this themselves, and from those who have done some post-repair painting would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.**** ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#7. Re: [E36M3] CE Light and Knock Sensors - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 15:48:34 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CE Light and Knock Sensors Roger, My '95 flashed the CE light a few times this past spring, and when I pulled the codes (using the gas pedal method) it gave me the code for Knock Sensor (1225 or 1226, I can't remember which one). The code eventually cleared itself, and now the computer has no codes stored (1444). It could be a loose/dirty intermittent connection for the knock sensor. Unfortunately, they're located beneath the intake manifold, and it's going to be a tight reach (if even reachable) to pull off the connectors and clean them. I haven't tried it, but I was having difficulty just seeing the knock sensors with everything assembled. -rb >Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:28:06 EDT >From: RogRacer@aol.com >Subject: [E36M3] CE Light and Knock Sensors > >A quick question about the behavior of the Check Engine light. Mine has >begun a brief flicker occuring perhaps once every few days. My Peak >Research code reader indicates a fault in knock sensor #2. My question is: >Why does the CE light not stay illuminated? Does this mean that the Knock >Sensor is, in fact, actually working when the light is "off" (99.99% of the >time). Or, once the code is stored, is this circuit ignored completely and >the ECU revert to (perhaps) more conservative mappings? If the later is >true, I would think that the CE light should stay on. Anybody understand >the programming enough to answer this? > >Thanks in advance, >Roger W. Graves >RogRacer@aol.com >'95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#8. looking for 4 IFG centercaps - from andy radin
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:08:40 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: looking for 4 IFG centercaps Hi there, I'll try this one more time before I give up and try to fabricate something: does anyone have four (4) centercaps for IFG A5 wheels that they would be willing to sell to me? andy r. 98 m3/2
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#9. E46 M3 Wheels - from Rob C Swift
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:27:20 -0400 From: "Rob C Swift" <RSwift@AVMTOnline.com> Subject: E46 M3 Wheels Hello all, Will the stock 18" wheels from E46 M3's bolt on to my '97 M3? I have seen a few sets for sale and would like to consider them. I do not know much about offset or the other factors involved which would make a wheel/tire combination suitable for a certain car or not. Thanks! Rob Swift Manassas, VA '97 M3
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#10. Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 Wheels - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:56:03 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 Wheels the front 18x8s will fit, the 18x9s will not without extensive body modifications (ie. flared fenders) ben liaw > Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:27:20 -0400 > From: "Rob C Swift" <RSwift@AVMTOnline.com> > Subject: E46 M3 Wheels > > Hello all, > > Will the stock 18" wheels from E46 M3's bolt on to my '97 M3? I have seen > a few sets for sale and would like to consider them. I do not know much > about offset or the other factors involved which would make a wheel/tire > combination suitable for a certain car or not. > > Thanks! > > Rob Swift > Manassas, VA > '97 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >