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#1. RE: [E36M3] Oil question - from Justin P.
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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:07:14 -0700 From: "Justin P." <jpaek421@home.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question There are alot of synthetic blend oils out there which are plainly not synthetic and regular conventional oils simply mixed. Try mixing full synthetic oil and conventional oil together and you'll see what I mean. You'll have a colloid type mixture. However, this does not apply to every single synthetic oil brand out there in the market. Some brands have certain additives in their synthetic oil which does not allow conventional oil to mix properly; thus having an incompatibility issue. Furthermore, it is advisable not to switch back to regular oil after using synthetic oil as there is a high possibility of having oil/gasket leaks. Like wise, if you go from conventional oil to synthetic, the synthetic oil will dislodge some of the baked on oil deposits and leave it floating in your engine. A full oil flush is recommended when switching oil types. Justin -----Original Message----- From: The Abels [mailto:aAbel@austin.rr.com] Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 12:32 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil question Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:28:11 -0500 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil question > > > > Synthetic Oil and Regular oil simply do not mix and go > > together. > > Justin, > Are you sure about this? > There are numerous brands of synthetic/dyno oils on the market. If the two > were incompatible such products would not have existed. > Exactly would problems are you expecting when mixing synthetic and dyno > oils? > Same here. In addition, never heard of shortening oil change intervals to 'get all the dino out.' Indeed, most literature I've come across indicates that the two are fully compatible. Jeff Abel dino to synth converted 97 M3/4 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Link request... - from Justin P.
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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:07:15 -0700 From: "Justin P." <jpaek421@home.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Link request... Try www.bimmerparts.com -----Original Message----- From: Juan Rico [mailto:juan_rico@captionsinc.com] Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 11:00 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Link request... Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:57:11 -0700 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: Link request... Hi All, Does anybody have the link to that website that sells fog lights for $50? Mine popped out ;( BTW, the drive for the cure is at Santa Monica BMW today for all you folks in LA... Didn't see any M3's though. Anybody from the list going? Thanks, Juan. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch - from Matt Henson
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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:28:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch Hey Nick, Bummer, man. I don't suppose that there is access to get to the PP bolts? If you can take them out then you will get it apart. I'd think that the problem is most likely the clutch disk splines since the release bearing has to be able to slide to operate. If you don't have access to the bolts then some more convincing is in order. You will need to make sure that the tranny is straight to pull it out, of course. If all else fails, get two big pry bars, one on each side. I believe that there is another clutch fork that some people use, maybe to correct the release point? I think it's from a 5 series. You can try searching the archives here and the bimmer forum at roadkill.com. Good luck! -Matt --- NickG <nikog@MediaOne.net> wrote: > Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 23:13:41 -0400 > From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> > Subject: Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch > > I want to apologize in advance for all the cross > posts, but I'm really in a > bind and wanted to cover as many bases as > possible....... > > The car in question is a 1995 M3 with a 5-speed. I > started taking down the > tranny tonight in order to replace the clutch this > weekend. I removed all of > the bolts attaching the tranny to the block, and the > damn thing won't come > off. Yes, I got all the bolts from the top removed > (the starter has been > pulled forward). I can separate the top of the > tranny about 1/4" away from > the block, and the bottom will come back 1/2" from > the block. But the darn > thing just won't come off!! > > I'm afraid that either the input shaft is frozen > onto the either the pilot > bearing or the clutch disc. With the tranny clear of > both dowel pins, it > won't even rotate on the input shaft. Does anybody > have any experience with > this sort of problem? Any advice to give? > > Second problem....I'm installing a Sachs HD 'Sport' > pressure plate. In > comparing it with an old stock M3 pressure plate, > the fingers/springs on the > new pressure plate are lower, ie, a longer throwout > bearing is required to > keep the stock release point. Does anybody have a > part number for such a > bearing? > > Thanks, > Nick (tired and pissed off) > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#4. Polishes and waxes - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 00:53:02 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Polishes and waxes >>2. The elimination of fine surface swirls is achieved by the fill properties of the glaze, and accordingly reapplication several times a year is needed.<< I like 3M Hand Glaze also, but wouldnt you be better off removing them instead of just cosmetically filling them? I guess if youve taken off so much paint over the years through the application of a fine polish that youre worried about its thickness, then I can see where youd want to fill them ....but, assuming a decent coat of paint is left, I'd always go for their removal instead. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#5. Re: Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch - from Josh
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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 22:47:59 -0600 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: Re: Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch At 11:13 PM 10/26/2001 -0400, you wrote: >I want to apologize in advance for all the cross posts, but I'm really in a >bind and wanted to cover as many bases as possible....... > >The car in question is a 1995 M3 with a 5-speed. I started taking down the >tranny tonight in order to replace the clutch this weekend. I removed all of >the bolts attaching the tranny to the block, and the damn thing won't come >off. Yes, I got all the bolts from the top removed (the starter has been >pulled forward). I can separate the top of the tranny about 1/4" away from >the block, and the bottom will come back 1/2" from the block. But the darn >thing just won't come off!! > >I'm afraid that either the input shaft is frozen onto the either the pilot >bearing or the clutch disc. With the tranny clear of both dowel pins, it >won't even rotate on the input shaft. Does anybody have any experience with >this sort of problem? Any advice to give? If you have all of the trans bolts removed completely from their holes and can pull as far as 1/2 and 1/4 inches away bottom to top respectively then I don't think I can say that I have had any experience with what you are describing. If I remember correctly there are 9 bolts if you include the small 6mm bolt that enters the trans from the front of the bell housing on the passenger side. So take a quick bolt count and see if you may have missed something. If you haven't missed any of the bolts then all I can say is that you may want to push the trans forward against the block and give it a good jerk backwards and repeat. Maybe your worst fears are right and there is a groove in the tip of the input shaft or something else that is interfering with the pilot bearing or the pilot bearing itself is jamming in the back of the crank and around the input shaft tip. In a way it almost sounds like you are describing the a somewhat common phenomenon of transmission bell housing to transmission tunnel and tunnel liner interference. I find that the best solution to this problem is to wedge a couple of blocks of wood between the front engine main pulley and the sway bar in order to keep the engine fully tilted back or rather to keep the rear of the engine in the downward tilt so as to gain clearance between the bell housing and the transmission tunnel and tunnel liner. The trans tunnel and tunnel liner can be a fairly serious pain in the ass and could be exactly what is causing your problem as described above. To be sure put some light on the situation and look as best as you can at the top side of the bell housing and see if it is clearing the trans tunnel/tunnel liner/vehicle body. >Second problem....I'm installing a Sachs HD 'Sport' pressure plate. In >comparing it with an old stock M3 pressure plate, the fingers/springs on the >new pressure plate are lower, ie, a longer throwout bearing is required to >keep the stock release point. Does anybody have a part number for such a >bearing? The standard throw-out bearing of the stock clutch assembly BMW part number 21 51 2 226 729 and measures 25 mm from face of bearing to bottom of bearing contact tab. The throw out bearing that you are looking for is BMW part number 21 51 1 204 525 and measures 30mm from face of bearing to bottom of bearing contact tab. I just sold my last one or I would send one your way. >Thanks, >Nick (tired and pissed off) Have I been there before! Good luck, Josh MacMurray Eurosport Your source for Jim Conforti / Landshark products Shark Injectors and Shark Intake Systems Phone 801 886 2185 fax 801 886 2189 www.eurosporthighperformance.com
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#6. Oil question - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 00:59:53 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Oil question >>Just got my car back from the dealer after Inspection 1 and discovered they had used regular oil instead of synthetic. I questioned the service manager and he claims that is what BMW calls for in my '99 M3.<< No Carey, he's not lying...The vast majority of '99s came with conventional oil....And, unless you explicitly ask for synthetic, he's within the norm to give you what came in it! Always specify synthetic, and they will usually comply. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#7. Anyone do business with Bimmerworld.com - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 01:02:09 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Anyone do business with Bimmerworld.com >>anyone has delt with him or the company, and what kind of experiences you have had?<< Yea, I have. I ordered some flexible air duct hose to run from my brake duct up to my K&N. They delivered good quality stuff in time, and priced right...I'd use them again no problem. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#8. ] Oil question - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 01:04:33 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: ] Oil question >>Synthetic Oil and Regular oil simply do not mix and go together<< Why do you say this? Actually, you can even mix them to no ill effect. If you prefer synthetic, then by all means use it. And use it only, if you wish...But not because there are deleterious effects by alternating fills, but because you prefer its properties! --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#9. Track Tire/Wheel Selection - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:33:11 -0700 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Track Tire/Wheel Selection Scott writes: >>most of the CRs I know use the 17x8.5 setup with SSR Comps...there must be a reason.<< Here's a reason: In Stock class the 9" rims are illegal on the front of the car (though some use them anyway - how could that be!?). 1" over stock is all you can go. As to diameter, conventional wisdom in the US has been that 17" offers the best performance. In Europe they beg to differ, to wit the 18" wheels on the E46 M3. I would think the 17's give you a little extra cushion in the unlikely ;^) event of an agricultural excursion. Good question though. I'd also welcome the collective list wisdom, though I think you'll find actual performance experience with 18" wheels quite limited... Dave Hogg #20 E36 IS Co-Rookie My solution: USED 8.5x17" Fikse's! They can be found.
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#10. Kumho V700 Victoracer Vs. Ecsta - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:54:53 -0700 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Kumho V700 Victoracer Vs. Ecsta Just a data point, Tire Rack's published stats show that the Ecsta has a slightly narrower section width than the Victoracer in the same sizes. Maybe not meaningful but I found it interesting. 235/40 doesn't show on the stats page. Dave Hogg