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#1. Soldering crimps (was: euro lights - post installation opinion) - from John Firestone
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:29:43 -0400 (EDT) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: Soldering crimps (was: euro lights - post installation opinion) On Thu, 25 Oct 2001, Chester Wong wrote: > [Someone else wrote]: > > > > .... The other slightly less possible possibility is that my > > connections are subpar (ie my soldering). Hopefully, after some changes, > > I'll return with more praises! > > .... I received an e-mail from someone who > stated that metal terminal crimped connections should not be soldered. The > solder stiffens the crimp and ultimately weakens the crimp.... I wonder about this claim unless you really lay it on. Solder is comparatively soft and my gut reaction is that it would creep enough to relieve any thermally-induced stress. But perhaps my thinking is a bit odd and I assume an abnormally long-term perspective. I get excited about materials near their melting point as they deform over hundreds if not thousands of years. What concerns me considerably more is crimping a small, tin-plated terminal onto an untinned copper wire may lead to electromotive corrosion. There must be hundreds of such connections in an E36 3er, many carrying low current, low voltage signals. AMP claim a good crimp is gas tight. Well, if isn't, copper oxide is a very stable semiconductor. Perhaps it will be a few decades or centuries before this phenomena gets interesting. In the meantime, I crimp and solder my connections, mind you, as experimental controls, for myself or my successors. :) -John '96 318is -- john.firestone@nord-com.net
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#2. Re: oil - from russell
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:00:24 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: oil > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 00:59:53 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> > Subject: Oil question > No Carey, he's not lying...The vast majority of '99s came with > conventional > oil.... are you saying that bmw switched the factory fill oil sometime in the middle of '99 run? i doubt thats true. i've been told by 2 different dealers that all 99s had synthetic (not that either or both couldnt have been wrong). why would some have synthetic, and some not? the question of synthetic vs dino as factory fill seems to come up often. i'm sure someone on this list has a definitive answer... now, if it is indeed true that some had synthetic and some had dino as factory fill, i'm sure the dealers would know this also. how do they know which cars had which? does carey's dealer KNOW that his had dino? or is he just giving everyone the cheaper dino? russell dakar 99 ===== "let's roll" --todd beamer "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat "the most foolish mistake we could possibly make would be to allow the subjected people to carry arms" --adolph hitler __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: Polishes and waxes - from The Abels
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 08:17:29 -0500 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: Polishes and waxes > >>2. The elimination of fine surface swirls is achieved by the fill > properties of the glaze, and accordingly reapplication several times a year > is needed.<< > > I like 3M Hand Glaze also, but wouldnt you be better off removing them > instead of just cosmetically filling them? I guess if youve taken off so > much paint over the years through the application of a fine polish that > youre worried about its thickness, then I can see where youd want to fill > them ....but, assuming a decent coat of paint is left, I'd always go for > their removal instead. > Paul, From detailer friends I've been told that the only way to permanently remove swirls is to use a high speed rotary buffer, which is basically a hand sander (not a random orbit buffer). Something about the buffer, the high speed, friction, heat and correct foam pad and polish, all work together to actually soften and reflow the clearcoat. I've used Meguires swirl remover, 3M hand glaze, and 3M swirl remover. They all work, but the swirls eventually find their way back. When I inquired about this, I was told that the fill properties of these products are what 'eliminates' the swirls. On the other hand, I brought my wife's SUV into a pro to have the swirls removed (abused Trooper, w/ 60k miles). A year later coupled with careful hand washings, and it's still pretty swirl free. It takes a pro to use those rotary buffers. . . I'll stick with my random orbital buffer. Jeff Abel presently swirl-free cosmos 97 M3/4
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Kumho V700 Victoracer Vs. Ecsta - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:44:42 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho V700 Victoracer Vs. Ecsta In a message dated 10/27/01 7:02:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, springwood@blazenet.net writes: 235/40 doesn't show on the stats page. Just another question here. I'd prefer this size to bring my center of gravity down. Currently running the 245/45 Victoracer. Anyone have throughts on the difference in tread design between the two tires and associated grip for autoxing. Specs say rubber hardness is the same at 50? FYI, My Victoracers still have some life left after about 17 events (purchased shaved, I heat cycled them myself), but looking into replacements by middle of next season. I run the same size front/back and rotate after each event. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: oil - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:11:42 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: oil I vote for the cheap guess, but possibly assumed all E36 on dino. When I got home I checked and the manual specifically calls for BMW Longlife oil which I take to be synthetic. The dealer I purchased it from and who did all my provious service said it came with synthetic, he always used synthetic, and gave me a can the first fill to top off. Usually I go back to him on the way to Watkins Glen, but timing didn't work this time and I went to the local dealer, since 150 miles is a bit far for service. Of course, the dealer I bought from, Gault BMW in Endicott, NY, also gives a free day of instruction with Trackmasters at the Glen with all new BMW purchases. (Un)Fortunately, that's what got me addicted to driving schools. Well, ran my errands, oil is hot and draining, off to refill with 0W40 from LubroMoly. Carey ----- Original Message ----- From: "russell" <driver8m3@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 9:01 AM Subject: [E36M3] Re: oil > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:00:24 -0700 (PDT) > From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: oil > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 00:59:53 -0400 > > From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> > > Subject: Oil question > > > No Carey, he's not lying...The vast majority of '99s came with > > conventional > > oil.... > > are you saying that bmw switched the factory fill oil sometime in the > middle of '99 run? i doubt thats true. i've been told by 2 different > dealers that all 99s had synthetic (not that either or both couldnt have > been wrong). why would some have synthetic, and some not? the question > of synthetic vs dino as factory fill seems to come up often. i'm sure > someone on this list has a definitive answer... > > now, if it is indeed true that some had synthetic and some had dino as > factory fill, i'm sure the dealers would know this also. how do they know > which cars had which? does carey's dealer KNOW that his had dino? or is > he just giving everyone the cheaper dino? > > russell > dakar 99 > > ===== > "let's roll" --todd beamer > > "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat > > "the most foolish mistake we could possibly make would be to allow the subjected people to carry arms" --adolph hitler > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. > http://personals.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 07:48:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch > The car in question is a 1995 M3 with a 5-speed. I started taking down the > tranny tonight in order to replace the clutch this weekend. I removed all of > the bolts attaching the tranny to the block, and the damn thing won't come > off. Yes, I got all the bolts from the top removed (the starter has been > pulled forward). I can separate the top of the tranny about 1/4" away from > the block, and the bottom will come back 1/2" from the block. But the darn > thing just won't come off!! If you are able to get it that far off, I'm not sure what can be going on. There is a regular small little bolt that goes from the engine side into the tranny that holds the shield in place. My problem was the dowel from the starter that froze on and wouldn't allow the assembly off, but you're saying that all dowels have cleared... I think Josh was correct. The engine wants to naturally tilt forward, believe it or not, when there is no weight from the tranny hanging off the back of the engine. This could be throwing things out of alignment. You have to push up on the front of the engine. The whole engine, tranny, tranny tunnel alignment is very tight too. I think we rotated the tranny a bit to get it off. You said that you weren't able to rotate the tranny? Are you in gear? Did you remove the bitch of a clip and disconnect all the shifter linkage stuff? Otherwise, just patience and perserverance. > I'm afraid that either the input shaft is frozen onto the either the pilot > bearing or the clutch disc. With the tranny clear of both dowel pins, it > won't even rotate on the input shaft. Does anybody have any experience with > this sort of problem? Any advice to give? > > Second problem....I'm installing a Sachs HD 'Sport' pressure plate. In > comparing it with an old stock M3 pressure plate, the fingers/springs on the > new pressure plate are lower, ie, a longer throwout bearing is required to > keep the stock release point. Does anybody have a part number for such a > bearing? The '95 M3 clutch fork, AFAIK, is the higher of the common forks. Have you compared both pressure plates once they are bolted in place? Could there be a different leverage ratio so that as you bolt the pressure plate in, the fingers move in less? Also, you have to take measurement with the same clutch disc. Good luck, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#7. O2 Sensor Part Number? - from Preston Carey
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:09:23 -0400 From: "Preston Carey" <pcarey@babson.edu> Subject: O2 Sensor Part Number? Can someone provide me the right Bosch part number for a 02 Sensor for a 98 M3/4? I suddenly have some free time today and want to try and tackle my rough idle. If you can reply directly that would be helpful because I am on digest. Can someone also confirm that Bosch FGR8KQC is the plug of choice these days for the same car. Thanks, Preston
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Soldering crimps (was: euro lights - post installation - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:17:34 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Soldering crimps (was: euro lights - post installation opinion) I was confused by this too, because it wasn't spelled out what kind of connectors Chester's off-line discussion covered. For example, were they talking about tin-coated crimp disconnects that you find clipped to home speaker drivers ? (Its okay to solder these.) Or were they talking about R-Y-B insulated connectors? (It's ~NOT~ okay to solder these.) Or something else. Various rules apply about soldering or not soldering depending on the exact connector. If the guy who wrote Chester was thinking about connectors like the insulated Red, Yellow, Blue crimp connectors (you've probably seen these as spades, blades, or butts, and are often used in electrical equipment like 220 volt clothes dryers or HVAC equipment ....then again, that guy is correct. These should not be soldered. A R,Y, B crimp connectors works by a metallurgical process called a "cold weld". http://molex.com/glossary/terms/html/coa_com.html#Cold_Weld The quality of the weld is largely a function of the crimper quality, and to a lesser extent the connector quality. Go back to the term cold weld. This is a deformational process that depends on a lot of pre-planned geometry of the connector shape, and of the tool doing the crimping. If you drop some solder inside the trough of the connector bowl, you're going to not let the crimper and connector do was it was originally designed to do... make a nice, neat cold weld of the connector to the wire. Crimpers are available for these that can either do a double crimp (crimps the metal and the insulation) or a single crimp (crimps the metal only). There are actually military specifications that call out characteristics of these cold welds. Why? Well, because they are used in a lot of airplanes. Do you want a connection to fail in an airplane? Didn't think so. Those $10 stamped steel crimpers don't make a Milspec crimp. You have to spend at least $60-$70. The better crimpers have a ratchet that doesn't let go until you reach the mandatory crimping force. Anyway, my original point is: it depends. And there wasn't enough information given in Chester's original post to know clearly what they were discussing. But Chester raised a good point...a red flag should be raised about blindly jumping in to adding a solder connection as an "improvement". - Skip John Firestone wrote: > > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:29:43 -0400 (EDT) > From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> > Subject: Soldering crimps (was: euro lights - post installation opinion) > > On Thu, 25 Oct 2001, Chester Wong wrote: > > > [Someone else wrote]: > > > > > > .... The other slightly less possible possibility is that my > > > connections are subpar (ie my soldering). Hopefully, after some changes, > > > I'll return with more praises! > > > > .... I received an e-mail from someone who > > stated that metal terminal crimped connections should not be soldered. The > > solder stiffens the crimp and ultimately weakens the crimp.... > > I wonder about this claim unless you really lay it on. Solder is > comparatively soft and my gut reaction is that it would creep enough > to relieve any thermally-induced stress. But perhaps my thinking is > a bit odd and I assume an abnormally long-term perspective. I get > excited about materials near their melting point as they deform over > hundreds if not thousands of years. > > What concerns me considerably more is crimping a small, tin-plated > terminal onto an untinned copper wire may lead to electromotive > corrosion. There must be hundreds of such connections in an E36 3er, > many carrying low current, low voltage signals. AMP claim a good > crimp is gas tight. Well, if isn't, copper oxide is a very stable > semiconductor. > > Perhaps it will be a few decades or centuries before this phenomena > gets interesting. In the meantime, I crimp and solder my connections, > mind you, as experimental controls, for myself or my successors. :) > > -John > '96 318is > > -- > john.firestone@nord-com.net
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#9. 'grease' balls in coolant? - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:01:02 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: 'grease' balls in coolant? Guys, Need some help. This morning I noticed that my coolant level was a little low. No problem, I was hoping to add a little Water Wetter anyway. After shining a light on the reservoir I saw what appeared to be little balls of solid material floating in the coolant. Using a screwdriver I scooped them out. They appear to be grease balls. Where would they come from? Car is running just fine. This has me worried. Anybody experience this phenomenon? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#10. Anyone interested in JTD Front and Rear Strut Tower Braces? - from Tommy
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:57:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Tommy <obd2m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Anyone interested in JTD Front and Rear Strut Tower Braces? I spoke to Jim Mihal and he said he is willing to make another batch of front and even a *rear* strut tower brace with the same non-hinged design as the front. He said 20 people are needed for both the front and rear brace. I am interested and hope we can get enough people b/c I wont put a hinged design brace on my car. I'm hoping there are other people on this list who see the same way as I do. Tommy '99 M3 NY Chapter CCA __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com