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#1. Re: [E36M3] JTD Front & Rear Strut Bars - from Tommy
Top
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:24:14 -0800 (PST) From: Tommy <obd2m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Front & Rear Strut Bars For anyone who is interested... Jim said it'll be $400 for the front brace, and $325 for the rear brace. The list is growing pretty nicely. Email me with your full name to be added. All payment will go directly through Jim Mihal at JTD, I am just a name collector trying to get enough people so I can get a front and rear brace also. ;) Tommy '99 M3 NY Chapter CCA --- Scott King <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> wrote: <P>Tommy,</P> <P>What was the price for the front and rear JTD bars? I too am interested in non-hinged bars for my car...</P> __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com
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#2. Oil question - from Dorffer, Rich
Top
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:36:29 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Oil question Justin writes > There are alot of synthetic blend oils out there > which are plainly not synthetic and regular conventional oils > simply mixed. Try mixing full synthetic oil and conventional > oil together and you'll see what I mean. You'll have a > colloid type mixture. I will first claim I am not an expert on motor oil but I do not believe all of Justin's original or follow-up comments. In a nut shell, "conventional motor oils are refined from standard petroleum products. They contain additives specially formulated to provide protection and performance in a wide range of temperatures. Semi-synthetic motor oils contain a blend of pure conventional and synthetic motor oils, specially formulated with advanced technology. They offer better performance and better wear protection at start-up than conventional motor oils. Full synthetic motor oils are a specially formulated 100% synthetic base stock. They offer increased horsepower, cooler engine temperatures, and offers better low-, high-temperature properties." Depending on the base stock of the synthetic oil, there could potentially be a problem from mixing a synthetic oil with a conventional oil. The problem typically would exist if one was changing from a conventional or polyalphaolefin based oil to a polyalkylglycol based lubricant. From Autospeed "The highly polar or solubilising nature of the polyalkylglycols will preferentially dissolve any additives from the new fill, forming a concentrated sludge and leaving an unaddivated oil to do the job." That being said, I am not aware of a single synthetic automotive oil which is polyalkylglycol based nor am I aware of a single example of the mixing of a full synthetic and a conventional oil where there was any problem. For instance, I have used Red Line, Mobil 1 (full synthetic before their Tri-synthetic) and Amsoil and none of these posed any problems when mixed with various conventional oils (Castrol, Valvoline and Halvoline) I have had. Red Line, Mobil 1 and Amsoil all recommend against combining their synthetic oils with conventional oils for the reason Justin cited (don't mix the oils due to the base stocks or additive packages may be incompatible) or noting the merits of the synthetic oil are minimized or reduced by the amount of the conventional oil that is added. While I believe the later is true and the former could be true if the product was polyalkylglycol based, I feel this caution has more to do with marketing than covering their asses legally. > However, this does not apply to every single synthetic oil brand out there > in the market. Some brands have certain additives in their synthetic oil > which does not allow conventional oil to mix properly; thus having an > incompatibility issue. Read above, still not aware of one example where this is true. > Furthermore, it is advisable not to switch back to regular oil after using > synthetic oil as there is a high possibility of having oil/gasket leaks. I have often heard this mentioned although I have never seen an example where this was true. Most gaskets deteriorate with time and use. Synthetics typically have an additive package to help maintain these gaskets even better than conventional oil additives. I have also heard that switching to synthetics with an older motor (like the one in my 1989 325is) will likely result in more leaks as the synthetic is lighter weight and, hence, thinner and more likely to find it's way into gasket prone to leaking where the conventional oil would not have. Again, this is a fallacy for the most part and if a gasket is old and leaking, it is old and leaking and the problem does not lie with the use of synthetic versus conventional oil. I have heard more often that in real use the use of the synthetics actually did more to maintain aging gaskets than it did to causing them to leak. I personally have found no more leaks in my 1989 325is when I switched to Red Line for the past 10k miles than the PO's use of conventional oil for the first 117k miles. > Like wise, if you go from conventional oil to synthetic, the synthetic oil > will dislodge some of the baked on oil deposits and leave it floating in > your engine. I am not sure where the "floating" contaminants are in your engine? Any contaminants that are dislodged in my motors should find their way to the oil pan or get stuck in the oil filter. This is a good thing. I am currently monitoring the use of Red Line synthetic in my 1989 325is and testing the oil and watching the valves to see how many old oil containments are dislodged and how much cleaner the motor will be after using synthetics over a period of time. Conventional oil was used in the motor for the first 117k miles and synthetics will be used the next 117k miles. Here is a decent link I found on oils (http://www.autospeed.com/A_0875/P_1/article.html) if anyone wants to learn some more rather than reading my babbling. YMMV and I am no expert on anything much less the use of automotive oil. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 89 325is
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#3. Polishes and waxes - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:41:05 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Polishes and waxes Jeff is for the most part correct but I wanted to correct one item. He mentions the use of a "foam pad" with the high speed buffer, friction, heat and correct foam pad and polish, all work together to actually soften and reflow the clearcoat. Actually, foam pads dissipate heat quite well and prevent the burning of the paint. Most (read, all that I know) detailers use a wool pad to actually create heat when trying to reflow the clearcoat to refill scratches and swirl marks. Foam pads prevent the heat from building sufficiently to perform this little trick detailers use. The foam has all the little pores that allow the foam to cool when in use rather than store heat. Also, the process of removing swirl marks with the system Jeff outlined results because of two things IMO, a sanding and smoothing of the existing clearcoat around the area of the current swirl mark/scratch and some 'reflowing' of the old clearcoat into the swirl marks/scratches. If a detailer is trying to remove scratches and swirl marks using the system Jeff described with a foam pad, the reflowing of the old clearcoat is likely not happening and the only part that is happening is a sanding and smoothing of the scratch/swirl mark and the clearcoat around it. As Jeff mentions, the key is to avoid getting the scratches in the first place...careful washing and drying is the best prevention. Regards, Rich - Cylco random orbital dual head polisher with foam pads and microfiber pads and Makita variable high speed polisher with foam pads, microfiber pads and wool pads (rarely use the wool though unless the scratch is bad). -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 08:17:29 -0500 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: Polishes and waxes > >>2. The elimination of fine surface swirls is achieved by the fill > properties of the glaze, and accordingly reapplication several times a year > is needed.<< > > I like 3M Hand Glaze also, but wouldnt you be better off removing them > instead of just cosmetically filling them? I guess if youve taken off so > much paint over the years through the application of a fine polish that > youre worried about its thickness, then I can see where youd want to fill > them ....but, assuming a decent coat of paint is left, I'd always go for > their removal instead. > Paul, From detailer friends I've been told that the only way to permanently remove swirls is to use a high speed rotary buffer, which is basically a hand sander (not a random orbit buffer). Something about the buffer, the high speed, friction, heat and correct foam pad and polish, all work together to actually soften and reflow the clearcoat. I've used Meguires swirl remover, 3M hand glaze, and 3M swirl remover. They all work, but the swirls eventually find their way back. When I inquired about this, I was told that the fill properties of these products are what 'eliminates' the swirls. On the other hand, I brought my wife's SUV into a pro to have the swirls removed (abused Trooper, w/ 60k miles). A year later coupled with careful hand washings, and it's still pretty swirl free. It takes a pro to use those rotary buffers. . . I'll stick with my random orbital buffer. Jeff Abel presently swirl-free cosmos 97 M3/4
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Oil question - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 21:04:00 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil question I have heard from several sources that Mobil 1's Tri-Synthetic formula uses a conventional base-stock but because of the synthetic additives it is rated as a synthetic motor oil because of it's performance. Can anyone else verify this? Mark Radelow 95 ///M3 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Reply-To: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Oil question Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 14:42:16 -0600 Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:36:29 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Oil question Justin writes > There are alot of synthetic blend oils out there > which are plainly not synthetic and regular conventional oils > simply mixed. Try mixing full synthetic oil and conventional > oil together and you'll see what I mean. You'll have a > colloid type mixture. I will first claim I am not an expert on motor oil but I do not believe all of Justin's original or follow-up comments. In a nut shell, "conventional motor oils are refined from standard petroleum products. They contain additives specially formulated to provide protection and performance in a wide range of temperatures. Semi-synthetic motor oils contain a blend of pure conventional and synthetic motor oils, specially formulated with advanced technology. They offer better performance and better wear protection at start-up than conventional motor oils. Full synthetic motor oils are a specially formulated 100% synthetic base stock. They offer increased horsepower, cooler engine temperatures, and offers better low-, high-temperature properties." Depending on the base stock of the synthetic oil, there could potentially be a problem from mixing a synthetic oil with a conventional oil. The problem typically would exist if one was changing from a conventional or polyalphaolefin based oil to a polyalkylglycol based lubricant. From Autospeed "The highly polar or solubilising nature of the polyalkylglycols will preferentially dissolve any additives from the new fill, forming a concentrated sludge and leaving an unaddivated oil to do the job." That being said, I am not aware of a single synthetic automotive oil which is polyalkylglycol based nor am I aware of a single example of the mixing of a full synthetic and a conventional oil where there was any problem. For instance, I have used Red Line, Mobil 1 (full synthetic before their Tri-synthetic) and Amsoil and none of these posed any problems when mixed with various conventional oils (Castrol, Valvoline and Halvoline) I have had. Red Line, Mobil 1 and Amsoil all recommend against combining their synthetic oils with conventional oils for the reason Justin cited (don't mix the oils due to the base stocks or additive packages may be incompatible) or noting the merits of the synthetic oil are minimized or reduced by the amount of the conventional oil that is added. While I believe the later is true and the former could be true if the product was polyalkylglycol based, I feel this caution has more to do with marketing than covering their asses legally. > However, this does not apply to every single synthetic oil brand out there > in the market. Some brands have certain additives in their synthetic oil > which does not allow conventional oil to mix properly; thus having an > incompatibility issue. Read above, still not aware of one example where this is true. > Furthermore, it is advisable not to switch back to regular oil after using > synthetic oil as there is a high possibility of having oil/gasket leaks. I have often heard this mentioned although I have never seen an example where this was true. Most gaskets deteriorate with time and use. Synthetics typically have an additive package to help maintain these gaskets even better than conventional oil additives. I have also heard that switching to synthetics with an older motor (like the one in my 1989 325is) will likely result in more leaks as the synthetic is lighter weight and, hence, thinner and more likely to find it's way into gasket prone to leaking where the conventional oil would not have. Again, this is a fallacy for the most part and if a gasket is old and leaking, it is old and leaking and the problem does not lie with the use of synthetic versus conventional oil. I have heard more often that in real use the use of the synthetics actually did more to maintain aging gaskets than it did to causing them to leak. I personally have found no more leaks in my 1989 325is when I switched to Red Line for the past 10k miles than the PO's use of conventional oil for the first 117k miles. > Like wise, if you go from conventional oil to synthetic, the synthetic oil > will dislodge some of the baked on oil deposits and leave it floating in > your engine. I am not sure where the "floating" contaminants are in your engine? Any contaminants that are dislodged in my motors should find their way to the oil pan or get stuck in the oil filter. This is a good thing. I am currently monitoring the use of Red Line synthetic in my 1989 325is and testing the oil and watching the valves to see how many old oil containments are dislodged and how much cleaner the motor will be after using synthetics over a period of time. Conventional oil was used in the motor for the first 117k miles and synthetics will be used the next 117k miles. Here is a decent link I found on oils (http://www.autospeed.com/A_0875/P_1/article.html) if anyone wants to learn some more rather than reading my babbling. YMMV and I am no expert on anything much less the use of automotive oil. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 89 325is ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Oil question - from Dorffer, Rich
Top
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:20:57 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question Mark, I have heard this as well and had my doubts. Excerpted right from Mobil's website on their synthetic oil (http://mobil1.com/index.jsp): Conventional oils come from crude oil that is pumped from the ground. Crude oil is made up of a twisted and jumbled mass of carbon atoms that form chains and rings of different sizes and shapes. Long chains of carbon atoms produce a thick viscous fluid that flows slowly. Shorter chains produce fluid that flows more readily. In an oil refinery, crude oil is separated into various stocks. These become the basis for lubricating oils and fuels. Thick tangled masses of carbon chains become asphaltic materials used in roofing tar and road work. Very short chains and ring compounds of carbon are volatile and can be refined to produce gasoline and other solvents. While petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur, wax and asphaltic material cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and may end up in motor oil base stocks. More than 30 years ago Mobil began looking for lubricants that would flow easily at extremely low temperatures. This search led to the development of synthetic base fluids free from the waxes and contaminants that cause conventional lubricants to solidify in extreme cold. The result was the development of Mobil 1, a fully synthetic motor oil created, initially, from two synthetic base fluids - polyalphaolefins (PAO) and esters combined with a unique additive package. PAOs are made by chemically knitting molecules of ethylene into carbon chains of uniform length and shape. These carbon chains can remain liquid and slippery under the widest range of engine conditions possible. The PAOs are combined with an ester - a compound formed from the reaction of alcohol and certain acids. The resulting synthetic fluid provides the optimum performance properties for engine lubricants. Ultimately, Mobil developed an additional synthetic base fluid - an alkylated aromatic - that is especially effective in protecting engines against wear, sludge formation and piston deposits. This new formula has been incorporated into Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic(tm) motor oil, which was introduced in 1999. Basically, Mark's sources are not correct. Mobil 1's Tri-Synthetic formula is a synthetic oil to the best of my knowledge. Here is their data sheet: https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/MobilPDS.nsf/26b7c4b33367a4a0862566650 04e4266/9337c5cedcf5e32e852567b60056db77?OpenDocument If not, could someone please sue Mobil for false advertising ;-) I am an infrequent Mobil user but I believe they make good products. Regards, Rich -----Original Message----- From: Mark Radelow [mailto:radelow@hotmail.com] Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 4:04 PM To: Dorffer, Rich; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil question I have heard from several sources that Mobil 1's Tri-Synthetic formula uses a conventional base-stock but because of the synthetic additives it is rated as a synthetic motor oil because of it's performance. Can anyone else verify this? Mark Radelow 95 ///M3 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Reply-To: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Oil question Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 14:42:16 -0600 Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:36:29 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Oil question Justin writes > There are alot of synthetic blend oils out there > which are plainly not synthetic and regular conventional oils > simply mixed. Try mixing full synthetic oil and conventional > oil together and you'll see what I mean. You'll have a > colloid type mixture. I will first claim I am not an expert on motor oil but I do not believe all of Justin's original or follow-up comments. In a nut shell, "conventional motor oils are refined from standard petroleum products. They contain additives specially formulated to provide protection and performance in a wide range of temperatures. Semi-synthetic motor oils contain a blend of pure conventional and synthetic motor oils, specially formulated with advanced technology. They offer better performance and better wear protection at start-up than conventional motor oils. Full synthetic motor oils are a specially formulated 100% synthetic base stock. They offer increased horsepower, cooler engine temperatures, and offers better low-, high-temperature properties." Depending on the base stock of the synthetic oil, there could potentially be a problem from mixing a synthetic oil with a conventional oil. The problem typically would exist if one was changing from a conventional or polyalphaolefin based oil to a polyalkylglycol based lubricant. From Autospeed "The highly polar or solubilising nature of the polyalkylglycols will preferentially dissolve any additives from the new fill, forming a concentrated sludge and leaving an unaddivated oil to do the job." That being said, I am not aware of a single synthetic automotive oil which is polyalkylglycol based nor am I aware of a single example of the mixing of a full synthetic and a conventional oil where there was any problem. For instance, I have used Red Line, Mobil 1 (full synthetic before their Tri-synthetic) and Amsoil and none of these posed any problems when mixed with various conventional oils (Castrol, Valvoline and Halvoline) I have had. Red Line, Mobil 1 and Amsoil all recommend against combining their synthetic oils with conventional oils for the reason Justin cited (don't mix the oils due to the base stocks or additive packages may be incompatible) or noting the merits of the synthetic oil are minimized or reduced by the amount of the conventional oil that is added. While I believe the later is true and the former could be true if the product was polyalkylglycol based, I feel this caution has more to do with marketing than covering their asses legally. > However, this does not apply to every single synthetic oil brand out there > in the market. Some brands have certain additives in their synthetic oil > which does not allow conventional oil to mix properly; thus having an > incompatibility issue. Read above, still not aware of one example where this is true. > Furthermore, it is advisable not to switch back to regular oil after using > synthetic oil as there is a high possibility of having oil/gasket leaks. I have often heard this mentioned although I have never seen an example where this was true. Most gaskets deteriorate with time and use. Synthetics typically have an additive package to help maintain these gaskets even better than conventional oil additives. I have also heard that switching to synthetics with an older motor (like the one in my 1989 325is) will likely result in more leaks as the synthetic is lighter weight and, hence, thinner and more likely to find it's way into gasket prone to leaking where the conventional oil would not have. Again, this is a fallacy for the most part and if a gasket is old and leaking, it is old and leaking and the problem does not lie with the use of synthetic versus conventional oil. I have heard more often that in real use the use of the synthetics actually did more to maintain aging gaskets than it did to causing them to leak. I personally have found no more leaks in my 1989 325is when I switched to Red Line for the past 10k miles than the PO's use of conventional oil for the first 117k miles. > Like wise, if you go from conventional oil to synthetic, the synthetic oil > will dislodge some of the baked on oil deposits and leave it floating in > your engine. I am not sure where the "floating" contaminants are in your engine? Any contaminants that are dislodged in my motors should find their way to the oil pan or get stuck in the oil filter. This is a good thing. I am currently monitoring the use of Red Line synthetic in my 1989 325is and testing the oil and watching the valves to see how many old oil containments are dislodged and how much cleaner the motor will be after using synthetics over a period of time. Conventional oil was used in the motor for the first 117k miles and synthetics will be used the next 117k miles. Here is a decent link I found on oils (http://www.autospeed.com/A_0875/P_1/article.html) if anyone wants to learn some more rather than reading my babbling. YMMV and I am no expert on anything much less the use of automotive oil. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 89 325is ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Oil question - from Mark Radelow
Top
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 21:34:03 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question Okay sounds good to me. Although I heard that there are generally two types of synthetic base stocks. One which is a modified crude oil type and one that is a fully synthetic base stock (Mobil 1 using the modified crude oil stock). Doesn't really matter to me, I run good old fashion dyno oil from Kendall (GT-1). No lifter noise at the autox course, motor runs smooth and quiet, and it's $2.00 a quart :) Mark 95 ///M3 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Reply-To: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:22:17 -0600 *snip* Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:20:57 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question Mark, I have heard this as well and had my doubts. Excerpted right from Mobil's website on their synthetic oil (http://mobil1.com/index.jsp): *snip* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Oil question - from Dorffer, Rich
Top
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:38:50 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question I always thought there were two types as well "modified crude oil type and one that is a fully synthetic base stock". Mobil One claims there "Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Series motor oils are manufactured from 100% synthetic base stocks" Let the wars wage on. Regards, Rich -----Original Message----- From: Mark Radelow [mailto:radelow@hotmail.com] Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 4:34 PM To: Dorffer, Rich; Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question Okay sounds good to me. Although I heard that there are generally two types of synthetic base stocks. One which is a modified crude oil type and one that is a fully synthetic base stock (Mobil 1 using the modified crude oil stock). Doesn't really matter to me, I run good old fashion dyno oil from Kendall (GT-1). No lifter noise at the autox course, motor runs smooth and quiet, and it's $2.00 a quart :) Mark 95 ///M3 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Reply-To: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:22:17 -0600 *snip* Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:20:57 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil question Mark, I have heard this as well and had my doubts. Excerpted right from Mobil's website on their synthetic oil (http://mobil1.com/index.jsp): *snip* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#8. Re: Oil Question - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 17:04:24 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Re: Oil Question Mostly, from surveying hundreds of '99 M3 owners on line and elsewhere. And from contacting BMW NA. Also, it is a requirment that cars with synthetic factory fill must have the sticker underhood...Most dealers will at least tell you this. Despite the fact that I said dealers should generally not be used as the be all and end all of truth regarding our cars, they are at least occasionally familiar with such practices. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "russell" <driver8m3@yahoo.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Cc: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 11:33 PM Subject: Re: Oil Question > ok...since i'm playing the part of the doubting one, how do you KNOW this > to be true? > > russell > > --- Paul Elliott <pelliott@rcn.com> wrote: > > Russel, > > > > >>are you saying that bmw switched the factory fill oil sometime in the > > middle of '99 run? i doubt thats true. << > > > > Doubt away, oh doubting Russel, but the fact is that a few of the last > > E36M3s produced during teh last months found their way onto the E46 > > lines, > > and were so factory filled with the long life stuff....Those that got it > > had > > the yellow Synethetic sticker in the engine compartment...If you dont > > have > > the sticker, you dont have the synthetic..Its that simple. > > > > >>now, if it is indeed true that some had synthetic and some had dino as > > factory fill, i'm sure the dealers would know this also<< > > > > I think if you reverse that which youre sure of and that which you > > doubt, > > you'll be better off. Clearly, you cant rely on the dealer for solid > > information..Only those who believe in pie in the sky would truely > > believe > > that the dealer is the best source of truthful information. I know of > > a > > dealer who recently told an E46 shopper that if he waits til the '02 > > M3s, > > he'll find they have 370 HP. Woe on ye who believe your dealers! > > > > --------------------------------------------------------- > > Paul Elliott > > '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; > > Stygar > > SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > ===== > "let's roll" --todd beamer > > "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat > > "the most foolish mistake we could possibly make would be to allow the subjected people to carry arms" --adolph hitler > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. > http://personals.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 17:04:43 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: Help!!! '95 M3 tranny and clutch Thanks to all those that offered help. For the record, there are 10 (TEN) bolts that hold the tranny. I had only removed 9.....I missed the topmost bolt :( Needless to say, the tranny came off pretty easily with all the bolts removed (yes, I feel stupid!!). Like I said, there are a total of 10 bolts that hold the tranny on: 2 bolts that hold the starter 1 6mm bolt that holds a shield to the tranny (the bolt is on the pass. side) 7 other bolts around the perimeter The bolt that I missed was in the 12 o'clock position, about 1.5-2" to the right (towards the pass. side) of the rightmost starter bolt. Not considering the missed bolt, removing the tranny was a pretty straightforward and simple job. Another person is needed to lower/install the exhaust, as well as lower and install the tranny. Overall, I'd say it's a 4-5 hour job using a lift. Hopefully, this will make it into the archives so that others won't run into the same trouble ;) Nick '95 M3 turbo (with new Sachs HD/Kevlar clutch) > The car in question is a 1995 M3 with a 5-speed. I started taking down the > tranny tonight in order to replace the clutch this weekend. I removed all of > the bolts attaching the tranny to the block, and the damn thing won't come > off. Yes, I got all the bolts from the top removed (the starter has been > pulled forward). I can separate the top of the tranny about 1/4" away from > the block, and the bottom will come back 1/2" from the block. But the darn > thing just won't come off!!
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#10. Trade for 10 Double Spoke Wheels - from Steve Sun
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:08:30 -0600 (CST) From: Steve Sun <stevesun@midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Trade for 10 Double Spoke Wheels Hi guys, I have 2 17x8.5 BMW 10 Double Spoke wheels off the rear of my 99 M3 that I want to trade for 17x7.5s. Is anyone interested? I want 7.5s all around as my winter wheels. No tires, just the wheels. Steve