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#1. Re: [E36M3] Home Made LTW? - from The Abels
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:09:33 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Home Made LTW? Here's a list to get you going: Some of the other things that will save weight are: Smaller battery, but will affect your corner weighting Race seats (probably can save 50-100 lbs.) Remove spare (not great for street use) Composite hood (25 lbs.?) Composite trunk lid Lighter wheels Lighter tires, like Hoosier R tires Lightened flywheel Tubular sway bars Exhaust Aluminum front control arms Aluminum or composite doors Remove AC Remove amp, cd changer Sound insulation under carpet Remove undercoating Remove carpet, headliner Thinner glass or lexan windows Remove window motors Remove power locks Remove sunroof and motor Remove mirror motors Strip unused wires out of wiring harnesses Replace engine block with an aluminum block Acid dip chassis Remove cats Replace fog lights with blank plates Replace head lights with blank plates Remove power steering Remove air bags Replace steering wheel Replace brakes Remove dash, replace with aluminum panel w/ gauges Jeff Abel 97 M3/4 > > I think I'm about ready to start putting the M3 on a diet. Anybody got any > experience with taking some weight off, short of doing anything irreversible > (no cutting or grinding)? How much can be saved by removing back seat, > carpet, sound deadener, switching the fronts to racing shells, etc.? > > I figure this is cheaper performance than adding HP for track purposes. >
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#2. re: Home Made LTW? - from Andy Radin
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 12:50:53 -0800 From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: re: Home Made LTW? "I think I'm about ready to start putting the M3 on a diet. Anybody got any experience with taking some weight off, short of doing anything irreversible (no cutting or grinding)? How much can be saved by removing back seat, carpet, sound deadener, switching the fronts to racing shells, etc.? I figure this is cheaper performance than adding HP for track purposes." There's a company at http://www.mashaw.com with some very appealing looking composite hoods and trunks (12 and 5 lbs respectively). They also have door panels, but that would concern me on a street car re: side impacts. andy r.
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#3. DOT4 Vs DOT3 - from Philippe
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 16:06:44 -0500 From: "Philippe" <philooo@hotmail.com> Subject: DOT4 Vs DOT3 Hello guys, =20 I have add some brake fluid in my reservoir and instead of putting dot = 4 as a good boy, I've put some DOT 3 ... Is it very dangerous ? should I got flush the system asap or it is ok for a while ? =20 Philippe.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] DOT4 Vs DOT3 - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 13:46:47 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] DOT4 Vs DOT3 Re: >Hello guys, >=20 >I have add some brake fluid in my reservoir and instead of putting dot = >4 >as a good boy, I've put some DOT 3 ... >Is it very dangerous ? should I got flush the system asap or it is ok >for a while ? >=20 >Philippe. There is no danger. DOT3 is simply less good than DOT4. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#5. Re: Digest Welcome - from D. Hironaka
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 12:46:24 -1000 From: "D. Hironaka" <ahironaka@hawaii.rr.com> Subject: Re: Digest Welcome UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST Thank you ----- Original Message ----- From: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> To: <ahironaka@hawaii.rr.com> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 2:52 PM Subject: Digest Welcome > Welcome to the E36M3 list digest! > > This list is a private, moderated list run by Sue Kraft for E36M3 > enthusiasts. Please stay on topic and leave the flames at home! > > ************************************************************ > Digest Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - unsubscribes you from the digest. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s) > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************ > > Hints > 1. Before clicking the SEND button, take a moment to check (really > look at) the following: > > a. The TO field - Is it really going where you want it? In most > cases, it should be addressed to E36M3@bmw-m.net. > > Or, if you are sending a private message to the originator make > sure you have his/her address not the list address. > > b. The SUBJECT field - Clean it before sending. It gets cluttered > up with prepended junk. Every reply gets a RE: put in front > of the Subject even if it already begins with one. Eventually, > your reply may look like: > Subject: RE: Re: RE: RE: Re: original subject > > c. If you are changing the subject, change the SUBJECT field to > reflect the new subject. > > 2. Strip multiple footers and excess quotes. Messages can gather > substantial debris in just a few exchanges. Every reply gets > another footer appended to it, even if one is (or more are) already > present. After a few replies, you can have quite a collection of > identical footers. Please delete all of them before sending. > Rest assured that the system will not forget to add another. > > Same problem with excess quotes. Can we keep them to a minimum by > deleting all but the few needed words or lines? In many cases, > we might be able to get rid of all the quotes without losing > meaning, clarity, or continuity. > > ************************************************************ >
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#6. removing powdercoating? - from Andy Radin
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 14:55:36 -0800 From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: removing powdercoating? Anyone have any tips on removing powdercoating from wheels? My freshly-coated IFGs are too tight to slide on the hub now. Dremel, sandpaper (wet, dry?), solvent, etc? andy r. 98 m3/2
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#7. Re: [E36M3] removing powdercoating? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 15:13:07 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing powdercoating? on 11/3/01 3:01 PM, Andy Radin at fourfa@mindspring.com wrote: > Anyone have any tips on removing powdercoating from wheels? My > freshly-coated IFGs are too tight to slide on the hub now. Dremel, > sandpaper (wet, dry?), solvent, etc? I've had luck with a dremel and a very stiff wire wheel. A light grinder would probably work as well. -peterg
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#8. Powerflex bushings - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:14:52 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Powerflex bushings Wow! these things rock. I just put in Powerflex front control arm bushings and powerflex rear trailing arm bushings. I replaced stock bushings up front (they were toast!) and the TC Kline monoball rears. The TC Kline bushings are not made for street cars. My car transmitted all sorts of noise into the cabin with them... they definitely stiffened up the rear end, made it more predictable and tossable, but man... lots of noise. I attributed it to the H&R coilovers at first (I did them at pretty much the same time) but I've since been in other cars that have the same issue.) If you ever install TC Kline monoballs, USE LOTS OF ANTI-SEIZE. Mine basically welded themselves in place. I had to cut/grind/drill them out, using an angle grinder, a 3 arm puller, some washers, and a few sockets. :P what a PITA. They were so stuck... but they're out now. I was hoping to be able to sell them, but they're garbage. ahhhhh... the blissful quiet is my main observation, now. ;) Also, the front control arm bushings were toast in my car. This resulted in a intermittent shudder under braking, and bad bumpsteer, as well as funky tracking and vibrations. Those are gone. Plus, the turn in is better, less bumpsteer... keep in mind, though, I'm comparing the powerflex polyurethane bushings to worn out stock bushings... The powerflex fronts were really easy. Some tips... when doing the front control arm bushings using a 3 arm puller, just barely drill into the end of the control arm... this keeps the tip of the puller from wandering around. After I did that, they came off pretty easily. Then, use a press to remove them from the lollipop. This took some swearing and pounding, but still, relatively easy. Then, grease up the Powerflex bushings, and use the press again. Not real hard, but definitely make sure you get things lined up... you are soft and squishy and bits of metal flying at you at high velocities tends to be painful. The Powerflex bushing material is a softer compound than the poly urethane I'm used to. Hopefully it lasts for awhile, and doesn't squeak! I greased them up real good... -kit, looking forward to positive manifold pressure... 97 m3/4
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#9. B&M short shift vs. UUC - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 21:15:14 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: B&M short shift vs. UUC I am finally getting around to purchasing a short shift kit. A friend just installed the UUC kit and it felt great. I have heard the B&M kit is also very good (possibly superior craftmanship). Anyone have an opinion either way? Shel Hart 1998 M3 Techno violet
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings - from The Abels
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 20:38:14 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings Kit, I had my Powerflex t/a bushings installed yesterday. They are awesome. I went from a very 'wiggly' rear end to rock solid tracking. Not subtle at all. The car is now confidence inspiring. Now you have me thinking of replacing my control arm bushings. How many miles were on your car? Mine has 42k, and the stock t/a bushings were shot. I'm wondering whether, at my mileage, control arm bushings would be a good move. Be sure to let us all know how your air pump install goes. Are you going with a water injection system or an aftercooler? Jeff Abel 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 8:21 PM Subject: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings > Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:14:52 -0800 > From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: Powerflex bushings > > > Wow! > > these things rock. I just put in Powerflex front control arm bushings and > powerflex rear trailing arm bushings. I replaced stock bushings up front > (they were toast!) and the TC Kline monoball rears. > > The TC Kline bushings are not made for street cars. My car transmitted all > sorts of noise into the cabin with them... they definitely stiffened up the > rear end, made it more predictable and tossable, but man... lots of noise. > I attributed it to the H&R coilovers at first (I did them at pretty much the > same time) but I've since been in other cars that have the same issue.) > > If you ever install TC Kline monoballs, USE LOTS OF ANTI-SEIZE. Mine > basically welded themselves in place. I had to cut/grind/drill them out, > using an angle grinder, a 3 arm puller, some washers, and a few sockets. :P > what a PITA. They were so stuck... but they're out now. I was hoping to be > able to sell them, but they're garbage. > > ahhhhh... the blissful quiet is my main observation, now. ;) > > Also, the front control arm bushings were toast in my car. This resulted in > a intermittent shudder under braking, and bad bumpsteer, as well as funky > tracking and vibrations. Those are gone. Plus, the turn in is better, less > bumpsteer... keep in mind, though, I'm comparing the powerflex polyurethane > bushings to worn out stock bushings... > > The powerflex fronts were really easy. Some tips... when doing the front > control arm bushings using a 3 arm puller, just barely drill into the end of > the control arm... this keeps the tip of the puller from wandering around. > After I did that, they came off pretty easily. Then, use a press to remove > them from the lollipop. This took some swearing and pounding, but still, > relatively easy. Then, grease up the Powerflex bushings, and use the press > again. Not real hard, but definitely make sure you get things lined up... > you are soft and squishy and bits of metal flying at you at high velocities > tends to be painful. > > The Powerflex bushing material is a softer compound than the poly urethane > I'm used to. Hopefully it lasts for awhile, and doesn't squeak! I greased > them up real good... > > > -kit, looking forward to positive manifold pressure... > > 97 m3/4 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >