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#1. RE: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:00:30 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings > One confusing thing: Powerflex has two types of bushings for the front > control arm: std and eccentric for the M3 for increased > caster. I don't > remember if the E36 M3s comes stock with eccentric bushings. > OPMD wasn't > sure if I needed the std or eccentric so I got the eccentric > since it's > an M3 application while the rest apply to all E36s. I don't want to > increase caster over stock so did I order the wrong part? Well, you could jack up the front of your car & take a look to see which bushings you have. The std ones have the hole in the center, whereas the eccentric ones are offset. FWIW, my '98 M3/4 has std ones. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#2. Wiper blade lengths - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:11:15 -0600 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Wiper blade lengths Can somebody confirm this for me quickly, our E36's take 2 different lengths wiper blades, one's a 20" and one's a 22", right? Or is it 20" & 21"? Winter is coming, new wiper blades are probably not a bad idea. I knew I shoulda saved those boxes before throwing them out... Thanks, Andrej '97 M3
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#3. Re: introduction - from Joe Tan
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:27:28 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: introduction Zack, Welcom to the club. Gotta love a silver sedan! then again I am bias;) Here is a good E36 M3 FAQ: http://www.eurospeed.org/e36m3faq.pdf Joe. '98 M3/4 -5 Speed -Artic Silver -ECIS CAI -B&B Triflow Exhaust -Eibach Pro-Kit Springs -18" HM2 w/ Michelin MXX3 -Euro Clear corners -Euro Ellipsoid w/ HID -RD Strut Tower Brace -BMW X-Brace -Cross Drilled rotors ---------------------- greetings listmembers... five days ago i was the lucky purchaser of a beautiful titanium silver '98 M3 sedan with 28K miles on it. i think the owner was a member of this list... some photos of the car: http://nobot.2y.net/m3/ every day as i drive it, i gain more appreciation and respect for the car. as many others have said, this car is as close to the ideal compromise between driving performance and utility. it's really amazing! i'm looking forward to getting to know you all... i've had lots of good experiences on other internet lists. one question: is there a FAQ somewhere? i found a couple of scattered, fragmented FAQs on some bmw-m sites, but nothing that looked like a good comprehensive one built from questions asked on lists like this. thanks zs __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Wiper blade lengths - from Todd C. Merrill
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:36:35 -0500 (EST) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wiper blade lengths On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, Andrej Dolenc wrote: > Can somebody confirm this for me quickly, our E36's take 2 different lengths > wiper blades, one's a 20" and one's a 22", right? Or is it 20" & 21"? Winter > is coming, new wiper blades are probably not a bad idea. I knew I shoulda > saved those boxes before throwing them out... Every dealer I've ever bought wiper inserts from gives me two of the longer length inserts and says, "Cut the other one." A word from experience...just be sure to cut the correct end. Until next time... Todd tmerrill@mathworks.com 1998 BMW M3 coupe BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter ---
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings - from Matt Malfa
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:40:20 -0500 From: "Matt Malfa" <matt@shortshifter.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings 95 M3's use the offset control arm bushings to add caster, and are used in conjunction with a 95MY specific control arm that is dimensionally identical to E30 control arms. 96+ M3 control arms incorporate a change in the position of the outer ball joint. By moving the joint forward ~10mm toward the front of the car, the extra caster is created in the arm, hence the centered bushings are used in place of the offset. Hope this helps. - -Matt 95 316tds - The Bambislayer -----Original Message----- From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com [mailto:jim.bassett@alloptic.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 3:12 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:00:30 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Powerflex bushings > One confusing thing: Powerflex has two types of bushings for the front > control arm: std and eccentric for the M3 for increased > caster. I don't > remember if the E36 M3s comes stock with eccentric bushings. > OPMD wasn't > sure if I needed the std or eccentric so I got the eccentric > since it's > an M3 application while the rest apply to all E36s. I don't want to > increase caster over stock so did I order the wrong part? Well, you could jack up the front of your car & take a look to see which bushings you have. The std ones have the hole in the center, whereas the eccentric ones are offset. FWIW, my '98 M3/4 has std ones. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#6. VANOS replacement - from Walt Perry
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:40:30 -0800 From: "Walt Perry" <wperry@microsoft.com> Subject: VANOS replacement Hey Mark, I sent mail earlier about this issue. It looks like the 95 M3s noise is caused by the Chain Tensioners. Not sure this is true about the 98 M3's as we have different engines. S52 (for 98) vs/ S50 (for 95 - I believe). Here is the mail that I sent that no one has chimed in on. Hi all, I have been reading the many posts out there about timing chain tensioner issues. I have the marble / rattling noise coming from my 98 M3 as well. It looks like from what people are seeing this is a predominate problem on the 95 M3's. Basically, my question is if this still does pertain to the 98 M3's as well. I would like to try and change the outside Chain tensioner first before anything else. If that doesn't work then I will do the internal one next. Finally, (I don't know if this is worth doing myself but) I hear that it also helps to replace the valve cover gasket as well because this might be a VANOS issue. Please, if someone can chime in this will be great before I go through = a lot of extra / unnecessary work / money to solve this noise issue. Also does anyone have part #'s / prices to the parts listed: 1) external chain tensioner 2) internal chain tensioner 3) valve cover gasket List subscribers - please help us out here. It would be much appreciated!!! Cheers, -Walt Perry 98 M3 Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 18:51:56 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: VANOS replacement Has anyone replaced the Vanos on their M3? I am still getting some=20 chattering on intake cam side of the motor right where the VANOS is and it's=20 quite annoying. It this a really involved job? Thanks Mark
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#7. Re: Rear spring removal (intentional or otherwise) - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 15:43:33 -0500 From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> Subject: Re: Rear spring removal (intentional or otherwise) Eric, Definitely check to make sure the parking brake is released as Lowell suggested (I'm guessing that would also prevent easy rear rotor removal leading to swearing, cursing, rubber mallets, realization and then finally feeling like a moron, but I'm just guessing and would have no first-hand knowledge of that <g>). When I installed my coilovers, the stock rear springs came out pretty easily with a good pull. You could just install rear coilovers (OK, they're really "coil-next-to's" or "rear adjustable ride-height springs") and then they will want to fall out by themselves sometimes :) Vern 98 M3/2 now with 7" rear springs that don't fall out when I jump my car -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:22:27 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Needy <needye@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear spring removal This weekend I installed shocks and springs on both front and rear of the car (Koni shocks and H&R springs). Everything went smoothly except replacing the rear springs. I left the OEM on for now. What is the easiest way to get them out. I followed the Bentley instructions. Support suspension, disconnect shock, lower suspension gently...remove spring. But it doesn't come out. Even if I put downward pressure on the upper control arm. Am I missing something? Eric Needy '95 with a little less spring in her step
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#8. Re[2]: [E36M3] Wiper blade lengths - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:49:21 -0600 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Wiper blade lengths >> Can somebody confirm this for me quickly, our E36's take 2 different lengths >> wiper blades, one's a 20" and one's a 22", right? Or is it 20" & 21"? Winter >> is coming, new wiper blades are probably not a bad idea. I knew I shoulda >> saved those boxes before throwing them out... > Every dealer I've ever bought wiper inserts from gives me two of > the longer length inserts and says, "Cut the other one." A word from > experience...just be sure to cut the correct end. Well, last time I bought wiper blades (ages ago) I bought a pair of each length needed and ended up with 2 pairs of wiper blades. Plus nothing to cut (yes, you can call me lazy). They're 20 & 21" blades based on some info I dug up. Andrej '97 M3
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#9. Re: introduction - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 20:53:27 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: introduction Welcome to the list, Zack. There is no FAQ for this list (newbie project??), but you can use the search tool on http://www.bmw-m.net to search for specific things. -rb >Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:22:18 -0800 (PST) >From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> >Subject: introduction > >greetings listmembers... > >five days ago i was the lucky purchaser of a beautiful titanium silver >'98 M3 sedan with 28K miles on it. i think the owner was a member of >this list... > >some photos of the car: >http://nobot.2y.net/m3/ > >every day as i drive it, i gain more appreciation and respect for the >car. as many others have said, this car is as close to the ideal >compromise between driving performance and utility. it's really >amazing! > >i'm looking forward to getting to know you all... i've had lots of good >experiences on other internet lists. > >one question: is there a FAQ somewhere? i found a couple of >scattered, fragmented FAQs on some bmw-m sites, but nothing that looked >like a good comprehensive one built from questions asked on lists like >this. > >thanks >zs > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Find a job, post your resume. >http://careers.yahoo.com > > > >-------------------- 9 -------------------- >Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 11:23:57 EST >From: DINAN1@aol.com >Subject: 1996 BMW M3 FOR SALE!!!!!! > > > > > >-------------------- 10 -------------------- >Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 11:41:14 EST >From: DINAN1@aol.com >Subject: 1996 BMW M3 FOR SALE!!!!!! > >Hello,well looks like i am going to part with my baby, I am selling my 1996 >supercharged bmw m3. this car is extremely clean, it has 65k on the clock, >and still goes like the wind. The interior is black, and it is a perfect >10. The exterior is also black, Cosmos Black, and it is a 9 out of 10, it >has some small rock chips and a few imperfections, but i have had this car >since new, so to me i can see everything, i am a perfectionist when it >comes to my automobiles, and this car is extremely clean.... you will NOT >find a 96 this clean. The car has a dinan supercharger on it, the head >unit is a powerdyne, other than that the engine is completely stock, and >has never been into. as for the rest of the car, it has h&r springs, 18" >BBS RK2 wheels , bruellin exhaust, and clear markers. all the stock parts >are included, stock markers, stock exhaust, and stock intake parts. Again, >this car is EXTREMELY CLEAN, and i need to sell it. Price is negotiable, >and i am available any time, if you will be flying out I need 24 hou >rs notice to make arrangements. If you would like you can phone me @ >219-670-0086 Cell 219-696-4088 Home >219-397-7108, Work. or you may e mail me @ Dinan1@aol.com. Thanks for >looking and hope to hear from you. >Jeff Bianchi > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >************************************************************** >Digest Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************** > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Handbrake Warning Light - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 20:51:15 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Handbrake Warning Light Chris, I would suggest reading the instructions for adjusting the parking brake (Bentley, perhaps Haynes?). There is more to the process than just finding the nuts and "tightening those suckers up a few turns". You might end up having the parking brake engaged ALL THE TIME if you tighten the cables too much. The procedure is something like this (from memory): 1) Raise both rear wheels 2) Put transmission into Neutral 3) Disengage parking brake; both rear wheels should spin freely 4) Pull up parking brake level three clicks 5) Check and see if rear wheels can be rotated. If not: - Tighten the nut on the cable corresponding to the side(s) that can be rotated. - Tighten the nuts until you can barely rotate the wheels with your hands 6) Disengage the parking brake. Check to see that the wheels spin freely. -rb >Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 10:37:00 -0500 >From: "Rob Jackowitz" <rjme@msn.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Handbrake Warning Light > >You just need to tighten the cable from inside the car. Remove the parking >brake boot (pull forward from the rear). See 2 cables each with two nuts on >them. Tighten those suckers up a few turns and you should be fine. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp