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#1. RE: [E36M3] FS: BMW M3 Four 17"x7.5" Rims on eBay - from Toby Smith
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:30:37 -0800 From: "Toby Smith" <tobys@microsoft.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] FS: BMW M3 Four 17"x7.5" Rims on eBay Here is what may be a silly question, but I will ask anyway; Is there some sort of 4 lug to 5 lug adapter that I could obtain so that rims like these could fit on an E30? Thanks, -Toby -----Original Message----- From: Rex Tener [mailto:rex_tener@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 9:22 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] FS: BMW M3 Four 17"x7.5" Rims on eBay Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 21:19:40 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: BMW M3 Four 17"x7.5" Rims on eBay A set of E36 M3 rims on eBay. A great upgrade to all E36 3-series, or snow or track tires for an E36 M3. <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=59766 9439> -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] removing powdercoating? - from tristar500@mac.com
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 23:53:05 -0600 From: tristar500@mac.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing powdercoating? Brake fluid worked for me. The powdercoat just swelled up and it peeled right off. Yes, this wasn't intentional. :-( Dave On Saturday, November 3, 2001, at 08:51 , E36M3 wrote: > Re: [E36M3] removing powdercoating?
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#3. bulbs - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:53:57 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: bulbs > So who makes good less-ricey bulbs? Phillips has some kind of optimax or > something.. then there's APC.. and the raybrig and catz and piaas of the > world. I want something that is better than run of the mill, but not too > expensive. Any recommendations? Y'all don't get something for nuthin. Why do they LOOK brighter? because tghe manufacturers know that if they move the filament, the light tends to focus in the middle... then they can hold a lux meter in front of the light and say, "Hey look! we're brighter" this sounds fine, except for the fact that you are getting hotspots. Those "superwhite" bulbs, unless they have a larger filament than stock, cannot be brighter than regular bulbs. And, the coating absorbs light. it tones it blue by letting more blue through... why is this bad? the eye is LEAST sensitive to those shades... great. Please please, do the rest of us a favor and buy some regular bulbs or buy an HID set. I mean, a 9006 upgrade is less than one month of your insurance premium! ;) -kit
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Insurance Rates - from Peitao Ting
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 02:20:47 -0800 (PST) From: Peitao Ting <pting1@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Insurance Rates I just recently got a new policy and priced out Progressive when I was looking. In short, they suck. I'm paying $2000/year for 100k/300k and full comprehensive and collision coverage on the M3, as well as just liability on a 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro. My new policy is through National Automobile and Casualty Insurance Company, but basically my insurance broker found it and set it all up. I'm in the SF Bay Area (San Mateo) and have 1 ticket on my record (cop pulled me over for obstructing traffic when I was dropping friends off in front of a restaurant, so I got a moving violation for being stopped, talk about tickytack!). A good insurance broker can make a big difference. If anyone in the area wants a referral email me privately and I'll give you their number. Peitao (driving a fast car slow to avoid tickets) '95 M3 '90 Coupe Quattro (let it snow!) > Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:59:04 -0800 (PST) > From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Insurance Rates > Yeah, I got fucked too on my '95, not sure if it's because of the type of > car or not. My payment went from $515/mo to $615/mo.. I inquired about > taking my old car off my policy (I sold it) and they told me it would > RAISE my payments by a few hundred a month because I would no longer have > multi-car discount! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#5. insurance "Nationwide" in MD - from Richard Sperry
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:49:24 -0500 From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@home.com> Subject: insurance "Nationwide" in MD I live in Ellicott City, Md and was insured with Nationwide for the last 12 years. ( 95 ///M3 since new) At my last renewal, I got the 17% deal on my cars, 25% on my motorcycle, and an expected 10- 15% on my homeowners.... needless to say I called my agent, and they said basically, " that's the way it is"... I said " nice doing business with you, see you later" I shopped around and got equivalent insurance (home, car, motorcycle, and personal liability) and saved about $600 per year. YMMY. I think Nationwide wants out of Md, it's the only way to justify their actions with regard to rates vs. other companies. BTW, my agent's secretary told me they were loosing a lot of customers due to the hikes.... Rich 95///M3 in Md
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#6. Re: Optima Battery in 95 M3? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 13:56:59 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Optima Battery in 95 M3? Murray, I have the red-top Optima battery in my '95 M3. It works fine. The only problem is that the case is smaller than the original battery, and it doesn't have the molded-in points to secure it in place. My battery has been in for a year, secured only by the two LARGE battery cables. The battery installer (Batteries Plus) said that the cables will hold it in place. While it hasn't flown out of the car, it does move around, and has scraped off paint in the battery well. Not good. I plan to fabricate an adapter that will attach to the battery, and allow me to use the standard hold-down hardware to secure the battery again. I'll document it and share it with the list when I'm finished. The battery fits in the well with enough room to retain the plastic battery cover. -rb >Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:16:54 -0800 >From: <mroblin@att.net> >Subject: Optima Battery in 95 M3? > >Hello, >Checked the archives, but can't get a clear answer. > >Has anyone replaced their battery with an Optima R34 (8003-151 - Orange >top, >reverse polarity)? Looking at datasheets for the Optima red/orange top >batteries, the batteries are 7.8" tall, vs. the 7" tall OE battery. It >doesn't seem as if there is enough room under the package shelf to fit the >Optima posts and retain the plastic shelf. > >Murray Roblin >mroblin@worldnet.att.net >650 868 0926 >520 962 0957 fax _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#7. RE: [E36M3] FS: BMW M3 Four 17"x7.5" Rims on eBay - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:01:02 -0600 From: "Riley, Scott" <SRiley@CardinalCapital.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] FS: BMW M3 Four 17"x7.5" Rims on eBay Rex Tener wrote: "A set of E36 M3 rims on eBay. A great upgrade to all E36 3-series, or snow or track tires for an E36 M3." FWIW, I will also have a set of five (5) 10-spoke wheels (all 7.5") available for sale later this year. I recently purchased a 1995 M3 with only 20k miles. Four (4) of the wheels are immaculate, as you would expect with only 20k miles, with one (1) of the wheels having a 2-3 inch VERY minor rash. All five (5) wheels have brand-new (one original spare tire) Michelin MXX3s. Since I am currently using them to roll the car around the shop (the car is being built into a club racer), they will not be available until mid-December unless of course I have an offer I can't refuse. :) Scott Riley '99 M3 (Garage Queen) '95 M3 (soon-to-be Track King)
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#8. Introduction and question - from Chris Huff
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 06:10:16 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Huff <huffgroup@yahoo.com> Subject: Introduction and question Hi all. I am Chris Huff and I have been a lurker here for a couple of months. I purchased my hellrot '95 Lux M3 about 2 months ago. The car is much more that I hoped for. It was a dream car that I didn't think I'd be able to get. Well, I got one and the dream just keeps getting better. Now my question. I took my car to the driving school at Road Atlanta a few weeks ago. Before the school, I had my mechanic put 5w30 Mobile 1 in it. I also changed the trans fluid to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF fluid. A little while after the school, I started hearing a strange sound from the engine. It sounds kinda like a choppy rattle. Hard to describe. I been able to determine that it only happens between 1500 and 1700 rpm. It will make the noise while in neutral, but the car must be warm and then the noise isn't very loud. It is loudest while I am in 1st gear in a parking lot and the engine stays around 1500-1700 rpm. It abrubly stops on either side of those speeds. Since I can't easily recreate the noise in neutral, I haven't been able to determine exacly where it is coming from. Anyone have experince with something like this? Is it going to self destruct on me? I drive 60 miles each way to work, should I park it? Thanks for all your help. Chris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] busted thermostat? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 14:25:43 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] busted thermostat? Lowell, I think it's a BAD idea to remove the thermostat from a BMW, or any car with computer-controlled engine management, since the computer will no longer have a proper indication of engine temperature, and could run on incorrect fuel maps. Since the thermostat only opens enough to keep the coolant in a specified temperature range (88 or 92C), it may only need to be partially open to maintain this temperature. Having NO thermostat will cause too much cooling of the engine coolant, (unless you're driving flat out on a Texas race track on a 100 degree day), preventing the engine coolant from ever reaching full operating temperature (especially in cool/cold weather), and causing the engine management system to feed more fuel to the engine (for cold operation). Rich mixtures can translate into bigger problems - dilution of engine oil, fouled plugs, higher accumulation of fuel deposits on the valves, more carbon accumulation in the combustion chamber, overtaxing the catalytic converter (causing overheating and meltdown of the cataly$t), etc. In my opinion, that's too much to risk, when the alternative is to replace a $20 part every 3-5 years. Also, with the coolant remaining at a lower temp, the throttle body de-icing would not be as effective. I agree that a failed 'open' thermostat is a "good" failure mode, but it's just that - a failure mode - but it should be corrected as soon as possible by replacing the failed thermostat with another thermostat. If you're going to go through the effort of opening up the cooling system to remove a failed thermostat, there's no additional work required to put a new thermostat in (other than obtaining the parts). -rb PS: Warped the aluminum head in your Chevy 'beater? Man, you ruined my mental image of your car. I had pictured you driving a '64 Biscayne! ;-) >Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 00:13:35 EST >From: LoweSeaton@aol.com >Subject: Re: [E36M3] busted thermostat? > > >Justin asks about the consequences of running with a wide open >thermostat. [I assume I was the intended target since I am the fool who >removes his thermostat in the summertime ;-) ] > >Consequences? Ahh ... Nothing earth shattering that I can think of. I >do know it is WAY better to have a wide open thermostat vs. one that is >permanently closed. If it's 95 degrees with A/C on and you are stuck in >traffic, or you are on the race track driving WOT, or you are flying >across Nevada at 150 mph, the thermostat is wide open anyway so it makes no >difference if it is stuck wide open or even missing in my case. > >But most of the time, the thermostat is only partially open or even >closed. If it is wintertime and cold outside, a stuck open or missing >thermostat will cause the engine coolant to remain cool. You will not >get much heat out of your heater. But Ron B shrewdly pointed out that >you could put a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator and get the >water temperature up enough to survive. > >About the only real negative I see with a stuck open thermostat is the >engine computer will think the engine has just been started and will run >the "engine start up" programming mode. The engine will run a little rich >and the idle will be a little higher than normal. I doubt if it is rich >enough to foul the spark plugs or damage any of the emission control >equipment. Basically, you waste gas and pollute the air more than you need >to. If you are stuck on the road and have to decide to drive with a stuck >open thermostat or call a tow truck, save your cell minutes and drive home >with the open thermostat. > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#10. RE: Insurance Rates - from Patrick Mallon
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:53:25 -0500 From: "Patrick Mallon" <zez413@home.com> Subject: RE: Insurance Rates When I received my renewal in October, my 6 month premium had actually dropped 20% (I live in a suburb of Philadelphia and my insurance company is USAA). Happy but curious, I contacted USAA and asked why my rates had dropped (Not that I was complaining). USAA informed me that my rates had dropped because I had recently moved to a nicer area - I then informed them that I have lived in the same house for the last 2+ years? USAA then told me that my car was getting older and was no longer considered an expensive sports car. I asked them why the sudden drop and not a gradual one - I was on the phone but the response was the equivalent of a blank stare. USAA then informed me that an accident I had 3 years ago had just come off of my record. I informed them that this was great news since I had not had an accident and they probably owed me a large amount of money. They agreed and told me that they would calculate how much they owed me and credit it to my account. 2 weeks later after no further contact from USAA, I called to inquire on the status of my account. I was then informed that after further review they discovered that they had NOT been charging me for an accident. USAA went on to explain that real reason my rate dropped (4th excuse were on now) was that there had been a statewide change in the base rates on 5/10/01. Evidentially, this change in rates caused most to experience an increase in rates but lucky for me mine dropped 20%. Not knowing which end was up at this point, I contacted the PA insurance commission and inquired about my situation. The PA insurance commission informed that there was in fact a change in the rates in May that could have affected my premium, but would not be able to be more specific until I filed a formal complaint. I have not yet decided to file the complaint. Any thoughts, similar experiences in PA? Patrick Mallon 98 M3/2