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#1. head/retainers........was Valve springs/retainers on '95s - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 05:17:43 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: head/retainers........was Valve springs/retainers on '95s Skip great write up!!! As an owner of a later model M3 it is the following that really caught my attention. - Titanium retainers - Ceramic coated manifold - Pocket Ported Head Is there extensive port matching that was accomplished between the head and the manifold, in addition to the pocket porting? I have seen little discussion about these mods and my suspicion is that BMW has done a fairly good job on the development of these castings. What sort of gains can be had with the head work and manifold coating stated above? High RPM benefits only? Who accomplished the work for you? You make mention (actually quote) of Titanium retainers being good for an additional 300 rpm. How does the rpm limit of the 3.2L S52(OBII) vs the 3.0L S50us(ECU) compare? Can it be inferred that only with the use of Ti retainers is it safe to use a JC clip/reprogramming (raises rev limiter) or is it that the use of Ti retainers allows an addition 300 rpm bump or margin of safety above the reprogrammed limit? Thanks KLBurgess 99M3/2
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#2. Re: Valve springs/retainers on '95s - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 08:27:00 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Valve springs/retainers on '95s on 11/7/01 7:40 PM, Skip Bogard <Skip.Bogard@alumni.duke.edu> wrote: > Labor + extras (head gasket, bolt set, etc) would probably be about > $400-$1000. $400 would get you a vanilla install, $1000 would get you > blueprinting (you have to blue print your springs before you use titanium > retainers, btw.) Skip, Interesting. Could you expand on that last point? Neil 96 M3
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#3. Black book value - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 06:36:25 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: Black book value Hi Gruppe: Would anyone who has access to the wholesale Black Book value for a 95 325i loaded with 110,000 miles in excellent condition please forward the value to me. TIA Mike Turgeon 95 M3 Avus (I-Stock....soon, yeah baby) BMW CCA #166866 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: ABS Warning Light - from Tim Gergen
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 14:51:36 +0000 From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: ABS Warning Light Had the EXACT same problem in my 95. Problem was the seat belt switch...the part in the buckle that tells the car it is locked,and the seat is occupied. No biggie to drive the car like that IMHO, but the part was expensive to replace, so i just lived with it. Tim _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Valve springs/retainers on '95s - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 07:03:11 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Valve springs/retainers on '95s Re: > > Labor + extras (head gasket, bolt set, etc) would probably be about >> $400-$1000. $400 would get you a vanilla install, $1000 would get you >> blueprinting (you have to blue print your springs before you use titanium >> retainers, btw.) > >Skip, > >Interesting. Could you expand on that last point? I think Skip is referring to the fact that since the mass of the system has changed, but the cam profile hasn't, you'll need to change the pressure on the valve spring to have the right dynamic behavior. If the Ti retainers are dimensionally identical to the steel ones, then it's just a question of setting the installed height of the springs to be correct for the cam profile used. This means that you'll have to add or remove basewasher height in order to get the right installed (spring) height, and hence the right pressure. However, it's unlikely that the Ti washers are dimensionally identical -- they may be a bit thicker (or perhaps thinner, I don't know). In that case, you definitely have to change the basewasher height in order to achieve the right installed height. Basewashers can be simple, thin washers that are specifically made to be basewashers, or they can be much thicker pieces with one or more terraced levels to capture the bases of one or more concentric springs. Basewashers are used to set installed height and to protect the soft aluminum from being damaged by the hard spring. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#6. Cameras, etc. - from Carl Harris Sewell
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 10:06:33 -0500 From: "Carl Harris Sewell" <jzy308@adelphia.net> Subject: Cameras, etc. Somewhat OT but pertinent to the camera/red light thread. Following our September tragedy, I have seen several articles describing the proliferation of surveillance cameras in Britain (perhaps in response to a particularly heinous murder of a toddler a few years ago) and discussions of "big brother," privacy violations, etc. Be that as it may, the cameras in Britain are used, not only for red light runners, but for general monitoring of traffic flows, speeds, etc. To such an extent, that I see in a recent issue of the London Financial Times a description of a GPS whose memory contains the geographical coordinates of all know permanent speed cameras in Britain (with a modem to periodically download new locations). When you near a camera, the GPS beeps a warning. Ain't cheap at ?380 but who wants tix. (see www.morpheous.com) Carl Sewell 98 M3/4 CCA #151298
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#7. Brake Pad Change - from Allen Hyman
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 10:31:51 -0500 From: Allen Hyman <allen.hyman@motorola.com> Subject: Brake Pad Change Can anyone point me to a "how to" description for replacing brake pads between track and street pads on an e36 M3? Thanks Al 99 m3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Pull battery for winter storage? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 15:39:22 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Pull battery for winter storage? There's an amazing family resemblance between the BMW Advanced Charging System and the Battery Tender Plus: http://www.batterytender.com/batterytenderplus.html This website provides plenty of technical details on the product. I have the Battery Tender Plus, and it does a great job of maintaining a charge on my battery through the winter months. In fact, I hooked it up to the battery that was so discharged that the dome lights wouldn't come on, and it brought the battery back up to full charge - in a few days. This unit doesn't deliver sufficient current to quick charge a battery, but that's not it's intended use. If you have multiple cars that need trickle charging, check out: http://www.batterytender.com/multiplechargestation.html Although it's a nice solution, I can't imagine why they priced the five-station charger at almost double the cost of five BT Plus units. The convenience of a single-point charger isn't worth that much. Price-wise, I paid around $49 for my Battery Tender Plus. If you can get a 20-25% discount on the BMW charger, buy it! -rb >Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 13:40:38 -0500 >From: Skip Bogard <Skip.Bogard@alumni.duke.edu> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Pull battery for winter storage? > >You didn't get Rich's Tuesday memo ? You want >page 13 of this document: > >http://www.eurospeed.org/e36m3faq.pdf > >Talks about BMW P/N 82 11 0 026 663 >BMW Advanced Battery Charging System. > >On sales now at Circle BMW for $53 ! >http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/access/82110026663.htm > >Seems to measure all the right variables that a charger >should know to be called an intelligent charger: > -voltage, current, temperature, and time. > >The only thing really missing is a thermocouple in >your battery! Maybe when we get 42 volts we'll >finally get better batteries with sulfate remover >circuits and charging thermocouples. > >That document above also addresses your other >Winterizing questions. > >- Skip _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Choppy rattle at Idle - from Jason Lombard
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 08:31:13 -0800 From: "Jason Lombard" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Choppy rattle at Idle Chris, My 95 makes the exact same noise in the exact same RPM range. I have chalked it up to two things: 1. The tensioners probably need to be replaced on my motor, and 2. the baffle is removed on the intake allowing for a little more growl under load (my old '95 did this too). I don't know it's a real issue or not, those are just the conclusions that i've come to after poking around for a while. Anyone else care to chime in? :) Jason Lombard '95 White/Black-- growls when it senses fear in the cars around it ;) ________ It sounds kinda like a choppy rattle. Hard to describe. < I been able to determine that < it only happens between 1500 and 1700 rpm. It will make the < noise while in neutral, but the car < must be warm and then the noise isn't very loud. It is loudest < while I am in 1st gear in a < parking lot and the engine stays around 1500-1700 rpm.
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#10. Cooling system overhaul questions. - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 12:07:00 -0500 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Cooling system overhaul questions. Hello List: I keep reading old emails and other documents of people's horror stories with a failing water pump/thermostat. I have the replacement metal impeller pump sitting at my house, with a new thermostat and housing, and new belts just waiting to be installed. My '95 M3 has about 88K miles on it, and I purchased it a couple months ago and I have no idea if anyone has swapped the water pump yet. Due to the high mileage of my vehicle, I am beginning to lean towards swapping out the radiator and all the hoses at the same time I do everything else. My questions are as follows: 1A. How long has it taken any of you to swap out the water pump, and swap the radiator? (Need to estimate how long I will not have a car for). 1B. Is there a write up on swapping the radiator? 2. What is the radiator part number? 3. Any recommended radiator vendors? From what I have read, BMW genuine is the way to go instead of a fluidyne or other aftermarket? Yes... or No? 4. What are all the main cooling hose part numbers? (Upper radiator, etc.) 5. I do not have much experience with coolant. Can I just purchase the cheapest stuff at a the local gas station or supermarket ($6.00/gallon) or is there some kind of company/chemical that I need to look out for and ensure that I use in my car? I know that the coolant contains lubricant for the pump... will this dictate what coolant I should buy? 6. Where can I get literature with all the part numbers listed so I don't have to keep asking all of you!? Thanks in advance. Regards, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****