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#1. dynojet - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 17:29:31 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: dynojet > Neither the wheels or flywheel added any HP, they just made it more > efficient to transfer the power from the crank to the road. Need to use > another correction factor for engine HP. a Dynojet measure the ability of the car to accelerate and infers power from that. A brake dyno measures the actual power the car puts out... That's great, but I'm mostly concerned with how the car accelerates. ;) relative engine power doesn't mean as much, at least as far as I'm concerned. -kit
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#2. RE: Exhaust - from david tow
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 17:52:48 -0800 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Exhaust Hi, Kurt, I still remember the deeper growl I got from my 86 Honda Prelude's rotten exhaust. I loved it so much that I did not replace it until it just fell off one night on the freeway. A few holes on the exhaust could give you a cool sound... :o) David ------------------------------------------------------ Kurt asked: I'm looking to get a deeper growl to the exhaust on my '95 M3, have heard than no horsepower gain should be expected from an aftermarket system and that a less expensive route to a more rumbly exhaust is to have the OEM muffler "de-baffled" . Has anyone ever heard of this? Is it something that any muffler shop could do? Kurt _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#3. Exhaust - from David Hogg
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 20:57:08 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Exhaust Kurt, Debaffling is how Dinan made their early E36 mufflers until about '96, when they started their own design. I would think that it would take a great deal of trial and error to get exactly the right combination of baffle extraction to do this right. The result was indeed a very low, rumbly sound. I had one on my '94 325 and my wife thought it sounded like a school bus. On the M3 it sounds different, probably because it's always pushed harder ; ^) Dave Hogg
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Exhaust - from The Abels
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 20:12:46 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Exhaust > Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 15:45:20 -0500 > From: "Resener, Kurt" <Kurt.Resener@nortonhealthcare.org> > Subject: Exhaust > > > I'm looking to get a deeper growl to the exhaust on my '95 M3, have heard > than no horsepower gain should be expected from an aftermarket system and > that a less expensive route to a more rumbly exhaust is to have the OEM > muffler "de-baffled" . Has anyone ever heard of this? Is it something that > any muffler shop could do? > Kurt Kurt, I believe 95's used smaller diameter piping than 96+ M3's, and aftermarket exhausts in your car can provide real, documentable gains. Not the case with 96+ M3's. You should check UUC's site. I think a dyno is posted, based on a 95 M3. Active Autowerkes also has some dyno's posted. Jeff 97 M3/4, quietly stock
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Anybody using this? - from The Abels
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 20:21:35 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Anybody using this? > > If anything I wouldn't think it would work because it pivots on both > sides. If you can stop the pivot or design it similar to the BMW > motorsport one than you might have something worth buying. In general I > would make my own and stay away from this one. > > steve > > >Subject: Anybody using this? > > > >http://www.strongstrut.com/ > > > >Particularly the Rear Stong Strut? > > > >Prakash Maggan Uhhh. The front strong-strut IS a pivotless design. If you read their site, you'll see that they have eliminated the pivot in favor of a fixed, welded design. I presently have the UUC strut barbarian (no longer manufactured), which is hingless, but would be interested in a superior brace. FYI, the rear strong strut does not fit our E36 M3's. Jeff 97 M3/4, hingeless strut braced
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#6. ABS light - Probably a wheel sensor - from Dan Miley
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 21:26:05 -0500 From: Dan Miley <dmiley@rcn.com> Subject: ABS light - Probably a wheel sensor Tim, My '98 M3/4 started showing an ABS light shortly after I bought it in March. I put the same question to this list and was advised that it was probably a bad ABS wheel sensor. Since the car is still in warranty, I took it to a dealer. One sensor was bad, they fixed it under warranty, and all is well. If the ABS light is on, remember that the ABS system is disengaged and you have "old style" brakes. Until you fix it, your car's anti-locking system is composed of 4 parts - your eyes, brain, right leg, and right foot... --Dan
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#7. she's sagging but I still love her - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 22:04:14 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: she's sagging but I still love her My 95 M3's doors are sagging pretty badly. On the passenger side (oddly, the far less used door), the door hits the striker pretty badly. The door is visibly misaligned, judging from the side molding. The driver's door is starting to mis-hit, but isn't as bad. Has anyone done this job? The Bentley manual mentions 0.5 and 1.0mm shims for the mounting locations for the hinges, but I'm not quite sure I see how this is supposed to work. Hopefully someone can set me straight. Thanks! - Chris
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#8. Single new tire problems? - from Peitao Ting
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 19:16:05 -0800 (PST) From: Peitao Ting <pting1@yahoo.com> Subject: Single new tire problems? I just got 1 new tire under waranty because of a nail. Right now it's on the front but I'm thinking about putting it on the rear so that it'll wear faster than the other tire. I doubt this will mess with the diff but just wanted to check if anyone knows this to be a problem. I just rotated the tires front to back (which is how I found the nail in the first place), so right now the rear tires are less worn than the old front one. I guess I'm just a bit paranoid since my Audi Quattro is more sensitive to unequal tire pressures and wear. I'm assuming that it really doesn't make enough of a difference on the M3 to matter, but never hurts to check... =) Thanks, Peitao '95 M3 (new tire) '90 Audi Coupe Quattro __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] dyno chart - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 19:23:08 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] dyno chart Chester, I think that the most common dyno, the Dynonet, is an inertial dyno. As you said, any change in rotating mass will affect the indicated horsepower. If you use a higher gear (like 5th) then the effect of rotating gear will be reduced. Then again, if you use 5th then the tread on your rear tires will be reduced a bit as well. An eddy current dyno that holds the engine at a static RPM will not be affected by the rotating inertia of the driveline. -Matt --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 15:01:09 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] dyno chart > > That's correct....a standard dyno will not show the > effects of a LTW flywheel. > An inertia dyno, OTOH.... > > Chester __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#10. dyno chart - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 22:48:47 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: dyno chart Kit, << -kit, who realizes why dinan charges 20 hours labor for the blower... it's easily going to take me that long... So youre installing it yourself? I envy you, having the time, tools, and knowhow to do this installation....Its not exactly 'trivial'! How are you going to handle the software flash? I have Dinan's complete instructions from mine, which I got the dealer to give me. They are extremely clearly laid out, and are exceptionally well done for this kind of thing...Which only goes to clearly show me why I wasnt up to the job! I'd be most anxious to hear if you had any 'sticky' spots or problems during the installation. If you find out, I'd also like to hear what weight fuel injectors are part of our kit. Regards, and best of luck! --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement - from Margaret Cheng
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Date: 08 Nov 2001 19:40:53 -0800 From: Margaret Cheng <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement Yes, it's true. I have had the unfortunate luck of having to call for a (long) tow twice in the past 3 1/2 months because of the failure of the power steering return hose (looks like a metal trombone attached via a crimp connection to the rubber hose going up to the P/S reservoir). Both times, the failure occurred at the rubber/metal hose junction, once after the part was one day old, and second time after < 2000 miles of service. Both times at the track. Extremely frustrating, to say the least. Theories which exist: 1) Engine mounts allowing too much motion, causing tension, resulting in the rubber part pulling out of the metal fitting. (Dealer says mine are fine) 2) Too much back pressure caused by the restrictor in the rubber hose, located at the spring clamp in the middle of the rubber hose. Advised to remove restrictor, and use screw type hose clamp to attach hose to metal part. (why me and no one else?--I don't drive harder than everyone else...) 3) Bad luck--two defective parts in a row. (Dealer says this!?!) 4) Too much tension on the rubber hose because the P/S reservoir wasn't fully seated in its position. Currently, #4 is my theory, only because I noticed this after I got the car back from the dealer who just replaced the defective hose a week ago. I noticed there was no slack in the rubber hose whatsoever, and as I was looking at the reservoir from the top, the fastener was loose. This allowed me to rotate the reservoir slightly, and then I noticed that it wasn't fully seated. I pushed the reservoir down, and then noticed immediate slack in the hose, enough for it to be wiggled back and forth slightly. This amount of wiggle isn't huge, but at least it now matches the other car on the garage (it's nice to have a comparison model...). Unfortunately, I didn't notice if this was the position of the reservoir before the repair. I will say that I am now going to bring one of those hoses as a spare! Margaret 97 M3/4, thinking about borrowing Donna's rig to cart all my spare parts! jimbassett@home.com on 11/06/2001 08:56:00 PM To: e36m3@bmw-m.net@Internet cc: (bcc: Margaret Cheng/CA/KAIPERM) Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 20:45:11 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement ....Also, the hoses that are part rubber & part metal tubing will start to leak ....at the metal fitting, and when they let go, they WILL leave you stranded. ....Just ask Margaret (or me :-)). Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4