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#1. Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement - from Margaret Cheng
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Date: 08 Nov 2001 19:57:12 -0800 From: Margaret Cheng <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement If you look at the top of your power steering reservoir, you may notice P/S fluid residue, which I am told indicates that you drive the car hard enough to boil some fluid out of the reservoir if it has too much in it. This will then make the parts below look like there is a leak... If this is the cause, then you don't have to worry about topping off the reservoir, since presumably, you will just be boiling more fluid off. (source, Bill Arnold) Margaret 97 M3/4 aAbel@austin.rr.com on 11/06/2001 07:47:00 PM To: e36m3@bmw-m.net@Internet cc: (bcc: Margaret Cheng/CA/KAIPERM) Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:41:37 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement Rob, I have trouble believing that your steering rack needs to be replaced. At the sight of wetness/fluid around the hose leading from the steering pump, my mechanic said that it is normal, and that the steering pump hose tends to sweat. He did not recommend replacement, and noted this is a very common occurrence with our cars. Note the foregoing assessment came from a highly experienced and seasoned bmw mechanic, who also happens to be one of the technical service advisors to the BMW CCA (as listed in the Roundel). Note also that the power steering hose has been in this state for a year, the reservoir is full, and there are no noted issues with steering performance. Jeff Abel 97 M3/4 with seemingly leaky power steering hose
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#2. And the winner is......Skip! - from Rob
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 21:37:15 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: And the winner is......Skip! Skip, thanks for the amazing valve retainer post, one of the best posts I have ever read, and yes, I was here when Milos was selling carbon intake sheilds and everyone was going to the hardware store to fit huge K&N's and plumbing bends with their "Brown" (?) Euro HFM adapters!. I was also here when Ben Liaw owned an E30 M3, the Euro intake snorkel was cool, and JC chips were $100 :) Rob - many E36's
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Single new tire problems? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 05:44:52 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Single new tire problems? The real question is how worn is the old tire on the other side? If it's less than maybe 70-80% new then you should probably consider getting a second new tire. In addition to differential problems you may also encounter ABS issues and handling problems. The worn tire might grip better (due to less tread squirm) or worse (due to being older and harder). This could cause problems with braking or acceleration stability. Lots of things to go wrong. And, if you don't set it straight now then you'll be dorking with this again after the older tire wears out. Maybe others will disagree but I see this as part of the responsibility of owning a high performance car. Shoot, just last week I tossed a 60% new pair of P-zeros on the Boxster because I had to replace the other 2 and didn't want an unmatched set front and rear. By unmatched I mean different brands, not different wear levels. I think it's generally okay to have different wear levels front and rear, just not side to side. Good luck! -Matt --- Peitao Ting <pting1@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 19:16:05 -0800 (PST) > From: Peitao Ting <pting1@yahoo.com> > Subject: Single new tire problems? > > I just got 1 new tire under waranty because of a > nail. Right now it's on the > front but I'm thinking about putting it on the rear > so that it'll wear faster > than the other tire. I doubt this will mess with > the diff but just wanted to > check if anyone knows this to be a problem. > > I just rotated the tires front to back (which is how > I found the nail in the > first place), so right now the rear tires are less > worn than the old front one. > > I guess I'm just a bit paranoid since my Audi > Quattro is more sensitive to > unequal tire pressures and wear. I'm assuming that > it really doesn't make > enough of a difference on the M3 to matter, but > never hurts to check... =) > > Thanks, > Peitao > '95 M3 (new tire) > '90 Audi Coupe Quattro > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Single new tire problems? - from NickG
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 09:20:17 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Single new tire problems? Matt brings up a valid point with the grip affecting the ABS, especially on a '95. The MY95 cars only had a 3-channel ABS system (MY96+ had 4 channel). This means that the two rear wheels operate on the same braking channel, they're not independently controlled by the ABS pump. Thus, if one wheel has more or less traction than the other, it'll affect the braking quality. How much I don't know, but it's something to consider. Nick > The real question is how worn is the old tire on the > other side? If it's less than maybe 70-80% new then > you should probably consider getting a second new > tire. In addition to differential problems you may > also encounter ABS issues and handling problems. The > worn tire might grip better (due to less tread squirm) > or worse (due to being older and harder). This could > cause problems with braking or acceleration stability. > Lots of things to go wrong. And, if you don't set it > straight now then you'll be dorking with this again > after the older tire wears out. > Good luck! > -Matt > > > > --- Peitao Ting <pting1@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 19:16:05 -0800 (PST) > > From: Peitao Ting <pting1@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Single new tire problems? > > > > I just got 1 new tire under waranty because of a > > nail. Right now it's on the > > front but I'm thinking about putting it on the rear > > so that it'll wear faster > > than the other tire. I doubt this will mess with > > the diff but just wanted to > > check if anyone knows this to be a problem. > > > > I just rotated the tires front to back (which is how > > I found the nail in the > > first place), so right now the rear tires are less > > worn than the old front one. > > > > I guess I'm just a bit paranoid since my Audi > > Quattro is more sensitive to > > unequal tire pressures and wear. I'm assuming that > > it really doesn't make > > enough of a difference on the M3 to matter, but > > never hurts to check... =) > > > > Thanks, > > Peitao > > '95 M3 (new tire) > > '90 Audi Coupe Quattro
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#5. Dyno Day in New England - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 10:21:54 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Dyno Day in New England Since the dyno tread has been going around, I am sure some of us havent dynoed our cars and want to know what it really cranks out. I have hosted an RX7 day (back in the days when I used to have one :) and it gave us a chance to put "name to the face", check out cars, see how mods perform on one car etc etc. Hence if any of you may be interested in getting your car dynoed (www.acsracing.com) (Hanover, MA) they have a sale going on $50 for 3 runs. It would be fun. Email me if interested and we can take it from there. Ahmad 97 M3 Boston
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#6. FAILED - track inspection - Brake overhaul parts? - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 11:07:10 -0500 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: FAILED - track inspection - Brake overhaul parts? HELP!! I need to know everything I need to replace front and rear pads and rotors on my 95 M3. Service lady at my local track junkie shop said that I needed to replace brake sensors as well. What??? Bentley is at home. Going to the local BMW Stealer for stock parts. Should I get the brake fluid there as well? Any special tools I need? I've replaced miata rotors and pads many times, similar? Can I do this? Panic setting in... Radiator is shot as well, and belts. Ugh... I don't think I need part numbers, but if you think it would help the parts guys at BMW, then I appreciate any and all. Thanks Jonathan Evans Raleigh, NC 95 m3
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#7. Re: Blueprinting springs (was re: Valve springs/retainers on '95s) - from Jason Lombard
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 08:25:31 -0800 From: "Jason Lombard" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: Re: Blueprinting springs (was re: Valve springs/retainers on '95s) The Shelby organization was using titanium springs and sodium filled valves in the '60's. They had all aluminum block 427 motors that would rev to right near 9000rpm. Rumor was that it took them nearly 10 months to figure out why they couldn't get the proper longevity out of titanium, even though all of the metallurgical studies told them that the material was plenty strong. What they ended up finding was that microscopic detents on the material-- "nicks" if you will were causing stress risers in the higher rpm range. They figured out that an acid etch would remove enough of the surface imperfections to get the longevity that they were looking for-- and hense, no valve spring failure. This was passed along to me by a friend who did some consulting for Shelby back in the 60's. Sorry for the WOB, but it just shows how precise your "blueprint" of the valves needs to be. Especially when it comes to highly tuned, higher compression motors (i.e. M-spec motors). Thanks for humoring me. :) Jason Lombard 95 M3 White/Black >Now, as one further machines these, one need to realize the springs were >cold formed and you need to be careful not to overheat them with a >grinder, or will you change the characteristics of the spring steel in >the vicinity of the heat. Not to mention possibly nicking a winding in >the spring itself...this would be very bad, just toss that spring if you do.
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#8. Tire flatspotting during winter storage - from Dan Miley
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 12:05:37 -0500 From: Dan Miley <dmiley@rcn.com> Subject: Tire flatspotting during winter storage I hope to put my M3 away tomorrow for the winter. One last question I have is on keeping the tires round. Since I won't be able to roll or drive the car every couple of weeks, I need to set it up so the tires aren't fully loaded. One option is to load the suspension by putting blocks under the suspension near the wheels so the shocks & springs are loaded, but the tires aren't carrying weight. It can be done, but it can be a little tricky. Another alternative is to use some foam pads under the tires to distribute the weight across more of the tire. There is a commercial product for this, but it costs almost $300: http://www.tirecradle.com/tcradle.htm Or I can just pump up the tires and park it. Not ideal, but cheap and easy: http://www.goodyear.com/gov/policetires/storage.html Has anyone used dense foam that can be bought at a hardware store under their tires for storage of a few months? What did you use, what did it cost, and how well did it work? Thanks --Dan
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#9. cooling things - from scott yu
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 12:44:39 -0500 From: "scott yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: cooling things Howdy fellow listers, =20 First off, a big THANKS to all the kind folk that responded to my cheap tire question. In summary, Kumho great for the price; don't go near the cheapie dunlops. Two postive responses for the Yoko AVS Intermediate as well - this is actually the same price as the Kumho. Not a whole lot of response for the Sumi HTR's and I think one person told me to stay away from the Yoko A520's. To add more fuel to that fire, does anyone have experience with the following 235/40 17 tires? These prices are from discount tires, btw. =20 Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" - $108 =20 Falken Azenis ST115 - $115 note: this is not that cool R-compound lookin' thang, that's the Azenis Asymmetrical, which is only available in 225/45 and 245/45 R17.=20 =20 Now on to new things - there's been enough talk in the past about plastic H2O pump replacement on 95 M3's - how much longer do the metal impellers last? I'm revamping the cooling system on my '97, which is up to 91,000 miles now. I've decided to do the radiator and hoses, but = I'm wondering - how long are the fan clutch, thermostat, thermostat = housing, and water pump good for? If I've got 20K+ miles left on 'em I'll leave 'em, but if the avg. service life is around 100K mi... well, heck - now that I think about it, maybe they should get replaced. 100K miles, = after all. Anyway, waiting for the wisdom of the list as always. Any 96+ hi-milers ever had the water pump/fan clutch go? =20 Thanks, =20 Scott Yu aging '97 coupe
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#10. RE: [E36M3] FAILED - track inspection - Brake overhaul parts? - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 10:37:38 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] FAILED - track inspection - Brake overhaul parts? > HELP!! I need to know everything I need to replace front and > rear pads and > rotors on my 95 M3. Service lady at my local track junkie > shop said that I > needed to replace brake sensors as well. What??? Brake wear sensors, one at each end of the car. Front left & right rear, IIRC. Is the brake pad light on in your dash? If not, you can re-use the existing ones (they're one-time use, so if the light isn't on, they're still good). > Bentley is at home. Going to the local BMW Stealer for stock > parts. Should > I get the brake fluid there as well? Do you need to change the fluid? If not, don't worry about it. > Any special tools I need? I've replaced miata rotors and > pads many times, > similar? Can I do this? Panic setting in... Ok, take a deep breath......OK, now open your browser to (http://www.racepad.com/), click on "Tech", then "Change Brake Pads". That will give you all the info you need for the pad change. Rotor change is a simple extension of this: - When you're at the "Hang caliper" part, if you can turn the steering wheel full lock so that you can access the caliper bracket bolts. - Using a 16mm socket, remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts. Factory torque is 81 ft-lbs; if the rotors haven't been changed before, they will be TIGHT. - Straighten wheel. Remove the rotor retaining screw (6mm hex). Watch out, the rotor is HEAVY :-) - Clean hub, and apply a small bit of anti-sieze. - Install new rotor. Install retaining screw (again, with a small bit of anti-sieze) - hand tight, torque is some small number (12 ft-lbs?). - Re-install bracket & bolts (81 ft-lbs). - Continue with the info at Racepad. Note: The rears are similar, except you can't turn the wheels for easier access to the caliper bracket bolts - duh! :-) Also the rear caliper bracket bolts are torqued to (oh crap, I forgot) 50-55 ft-lbs. Someone with a Bentley handy can help. Question: Is this for a track event this weekend? If so, good luck :-) (Sometime I'll write up what I went through LAST Friday for last week's race.) If not, you have time, and can get the brake parts cheap, like from Steve D'G at The Ultimate Garage. Hope that helps, and email if you have any other questions about the brakes (I really should put together a video tutorial on this :-)), Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - so many brake changes, I've lost track 1993 325is #44 KP - It's alive!!! - brakes are fine :-)