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#1. RE: ABS System on 95 M3s (Light) - from Jay Miller
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 17:02:51 -0800 From: "Jay Miller" <jjmiller6@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: ABS System on 95 M3s (Light) <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>So considering the sensor arrangment. Why do you think my ABS light comes on every now and then for no apparent reason? Common Gremlin?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Jay</DIV> <DIV>'95 M3</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 11:38:01 -0800<BR>From: <A href="http://lw3fd.law3.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?curmbox=F000000001&a=d1633dfa07800447bc407d1130d956ae&mailto=1&to=Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com&msg=MSG1005351036.51&start=1296505&len=14668&src=&type=x" target=_top>Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com</A><BR>Subject: ABS system on 95 M3s<BR><BR><BR><BR>The ABS system on 95 M3s is a 4 detector (one at each wheel), 3 channel<BR>activated system. The rear brakes are on a common line. Each of the fronts are<BR>on their own line. This means that if the system detects lock-up on one of the<BR>rear wheels it will cut back on brake pressure until that single wheel begins to<BR>rotate again. Obviously this cuts down on the brake pressure being applied to<BR>the opposite non-locked rear wheel as well. Hence your braking efficiency might<BR>be slightly less. However, since the majority of your braking is done on the<BR>front wheels the rear brake might only be seen under severe duty or extreme<BR>circumstances with a significant difference between left and right traction (one<BR>wheel in sand or snow, the other on asphalt perhaps?)<BR><BR>The 1996+ M3s have ABS that is 4 channel sensor, 4 channel brake line actuation<BR>and so can vary the brake pressure independently on each wheel for presumably<BR>better braking under extreme conditions or significant differences between left<BR>and right traction surfaces to the rear wheel.<BR><BR>I personally don't see much of a problem with moderately different wear amounts<BR>on rear or front. It becomes a problem if it is extreme leading to different<BR>traction from side to side, or, if it is extreme you will be asking the LSD<BR>(limited slip differential) to be doing more work than it usually does. I have<BR>heard that if you are using a limited use spare on a LSD axle then you shouldn't<BR>use it for a significant amount of time because the LSD (and its oil) may<BR>significantly heat up potentially causing damage. I don't know if this is true<BR>or not. But it does make sense.<BR><BR>And, in cars with traction control systems or systems that detect a<BR>"differential" rotation between all 4 corners a significant difference in wear<BR>of the tires may show up as activation of the traction control system or dynamic<BR>stability system, or in the new E46M3, telling you that one tire is low on air<BR>(the system works on the basis that a tire that is low on air will have a<BR>smaller effective diameter and hence showing up as a different rotational speed<BR>than the pumped up tires).<BR><BR>Regards,<BR>Marc<BR>95M3CSL (no traction control, no DSC, no flats either.....just bald tires<BR>happily worn evenly!).<BR><BR></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>
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#2. More on (moron?) spewing power steering fluid - from Mel Silva
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 19:54:02 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: More on (moron?) spewing power steering fluid On the open track car I used to own (88 Mustang), one of the things that I did was to drill a hole in the p/s reservoir cap (after removing it from the car, obviously) and epoxy a brass, barbed hose end to the cap. Then I could run a hose to an overflow tank. The trick deal is to feed the hose in from the bottom, or stick it far enough into the can so it touches the bottom. What happens then is, as the fluid heats up and expands, it pushes through the hose to the can. If the hose is at the bottom of the can, when it cools the fluid is returned to the reservoir. It was a Mustang so I could get away with using an empty water bottle for a catch can, but on an M3, you might want to opt for the brushed stainless ordeal from Tilton. This was a common problem on the Mustang due to the 13:1 ratio steering (2 full turns lock to lock). Mel -----Original Message----- From: Margaret Cheng [mailto:Margaret.Cheng@kp.org] Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 10:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement Date: 08 Nov 2001 19:57:12 -0800 From: Margaret Cheng <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement If you look at the top of your power steering reservoir, you may notice P/S fluid residue, which I am told indicates that you drive the car hard enough to boil some fluid out of the reservoir if it has too much in it. This will then make the parts below look like there is a leak... If this is the cause, then you don't have to worry about topping off the reservoir, since presumably, you will just be boiling more fluid off. (source, Bill Arnold) Margaret 97 M3/4 aAbel@austin.rr.com on 11/06/2001 07:47:00 PM To: e36m3@bmw-m.net@Internet cc: (bcc: Margaret Cheng/CA/KAIPERM) Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:41:37 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack Replacement Rob, I have trouble believing that your steering rack needs to be replaced. At the sight of wetness/fluid around the hose leading from the steering pump, my mechanic said that it is normal, and that the steering pump hose tends to sweat. He did not recommend replacement, and noted this is a very common occurrence with our cars. Note the foregoing assessment came from a highly experienced and seasoned bmw mechanic, who also happens to be one of the technical service advisors to the BMW CCA (as listed in the Roundel). Note also that the power steering hose has been in this state for a year, the reservoir is full, and there are no noted issues with steering performance. Jeff Abel 97 M3/4 with seemingly leaky power steering hose ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Re: Tire question - from Mel Silva
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 20:09:43 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Tire question Ed, This phrase that Kevin has snipped sounds very odd. The ABS is engaging, yet you have no effective braking? The ABS is triggered from sensors at each wheel that tell the ABS computer that a wheel has "locked-up" and to relieve brake line pressure to the offending wheel. There is a Catch 22 here. If the wheel stops rotating then you ARE generating braking force, but if the car doesn't slow down you are NOT generating braking force. The first and easiest thing to do is to have the brake hydraulic system flushed. Make sure there is no water in the fluid and that some knuckle-head didn't put power steering fluid in the brake reservoir (I had a customer of mine that did this last week. I got it flushed before the rubber seals all swelled up). Verify that the Master Cylinder does pump fluid through the system properly after the flush. The next step would be to turn the rotors and replace the pads. I know you said they are new, but they don't appear to be working and it's cheaper than replacing the ABS. I am making a rather large assumption that if the ABS system was failing that the computer would tell you, let's hope I'm right. Good Luck, Mel 97 M3/4 Was once a software geek, but now I turn a wrench -----Original Message----- From: Kevin M. Gregg [mailto:kevingregg@home.com] Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 2:40 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Tire question Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 15:38:37 -0500 From: "Kevin M. Gregg" <kevingregg@home.com> Subject: Re: Tire question >On my friend's car, there is literally no effective >braking unless you really push that pedal to the >floor. ABS also engages rampantly. Once you drive it 2 >to 3 miles, it is back to normal. brake fluid level low? I'd guess that the tires are OK. If you swap tires front to rear, be careful when driving the car with the skinnies out back! Kevin Gregg kevingregg@home.com 1997 BMW M3 Estoril Blue coupe http://members.home.net/kevingregg/m3/ BMW CCA member Columbia, MD, USA ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] shifting funky into 5th - from The Abels
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 20:35:37 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] shifting funky into 5th Dang it, Andy's car always wants to go into 5th and mine doesn't want to. *sigh* -kit, who lives at the house of 3 E36 M3s... 97 m3/4, getting dinan supercharger... slowly... Well, 5th gear won't save Andy once the dinan blower is in your car. Can't wait to hear his report on your kit, as he seems to be somewhat discerning. Jeff, who has never seen nor touched a dinan supercharger 97 M3/4
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#5. Re: shifting funky into 5th - from John Firestone
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 23:37:48 -0500 (EST) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: Re: shifting funky into 5th On Fri, 9 Nov 2001, kitwetzler@mindspring.com wrote: > So, recently, I've noticed that sometimes my 97 m3 doesn't like to > go into fifth, especially after I've gone real fast. So... any > suggestions? Is there a 5th gear spring that is wearing out? I remember Autobild was a little startled in their long term test of a 1992 320i to find the fifth gear synchro was nearly spent after 100 000 km (62 000 miles). I hope you have a different enough transmission! -John '96 318is -- john.firestone@nord-com.net
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#6. Re: [E36M3] shifting funky into 5th - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 08:27:04 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] shifting funky into 5th I've noticed this too about mine. if you take 4th above 110mph and then go into 5th is goes in real slow, almost like you have to displace fluid for it to go in. Its smooth, just slow like fluid is moving around to let it into 5th. doesn't happen unless you go fast in 4th though... Jason On Fri, 9 Nov 2001, kitwetzler@mindspring.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 17:28:42 -0500 > From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: shifting funky into 5th > > > So, recently, I've noticed that sometimes my 97 m3 doesn't like to go into fifth, especially after I've gone real fast. So... any suggestions? Is there a 5th gear spring that is wearing out? > > Dang it, Andy's car always wants to go into 5th and mine doesn't want to. *sigh* > > -kit, who lives at the house of 3 E36 M3s... > 97 m3/4, getting dinan supercharger... slowly... > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web - Check your email from the web at > http://mail2web.com/ . > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. Soliciting opinions - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 20:06:50 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Soliciting opinions Hi list, I'm concerned that either most of you are a load of filthy lying pigs, or that my 97 M3 is seriously down on power. From lurking on the list and reading the boasts of tire shredding torque and the top speed induced, follicular spontaneous combustion (uh, "hair on fire" for the other Texans reading this), my car must be a 3-legged, lame dog with a broke peter. Can anyone suggest where I should look for the gremlins that are robbing my car of this awesome power? I don't notice a difference with the ASC on or off except during hard 2nd gear up-shifts and those are very rare. The car accelerates smoothly, but can't help but feel like I'm missing out after reading the posts on this list. I really gets my goat when my neighbor with the Porsche Carrera2 revs that throaty flat 6 at me when drives by my house. Background info on Penny: 1997 M3/4 5 speed Luxo barge 21K miles zero modifications (until the JC Intake arrives) Full Synthetic Motor oil (will change trans and diff lube at 25K miles) The car has hardly been driven and I'm not the original owner. There are little to no maintenance records for this car. Thanks in advance for the advice, Mel Houston Chapter BMWCCA #274624 www.houstonscaleautoracing.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Soliciting opinions - from The Abels
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 21:14:01 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Soliciting opinions Mel, Not sure, but perhaps all those stories you hear are based on highly modded M3's? Anyway, I have an ECIS intake (brand doesn't matter, they are all the same), and today I installed a UDP (yeah, yeah, I know my motor is gonna blow on the way to church tomorrow). Anyway, after the install, from a rolling start in first, say 5 to 10 mph, if I floor it while on smooth pavement, my car will light 'em up. Loud squealing style. Makes women and children run for cover. When my car was stock, this was not possible. Stock, my car dyno'd 215.5 hp and 217.7 ft lbs. Dunno with the two mods, but I'll let you know this week, as a geek, I need numbers. I'd say spend $60, hit the dyno. If you get over 200 in both hp and tq, you're in good shape. Jeff 97 M3/4, fire breathing Rottweiller ----- Original Message ----- From: Mel Silva <melsilva@mindspring.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 8:09 PM Subject: [E36M3] Soliciting opinions > Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 20:06:50 -0600 > From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> > Subject: Soliciting opinions > > Hi list, > I'm concerned that either most of you are a load of filthy lying pigs, or > that my 97 M3 is seriously down on power. From lurking on the list and > reading the boasts of tire shredding torque and the top speed induced, > follicular spontaneous combustion (uh, "hair on fire" for the other Texans > reading this), my car must be a 3-legged, lame dog with a broke peter. Can > anyone suggest where I should look for the gremlins that are robbing my car > of this awesome power? I don't notice a difference with the ASC on or off > except during hard 2nd gear up-shifts and those are very rare. The car > accelerates smoothly, but can't help but feel like I'm missing out after > reading the posts on this list. I really gets my goat when my neighbor with > the Porsche Carrera2 revs that throaty flat 6 at me when drives by my house. > > Background info on Penny: > 1997 M3/4 5 speed Luxo barge > 21K miles > zero modifications (until the JC Intake arrives) > Full Synthetic Motor oil (will change trans and diff lube at 25K miles) > > The car has hardly been driven and I'm not the original owner. There are > little to no maintenance records for this car. > > Thanks in advance for the advice, > > Mel > Houston Chapter BMWCCA #274624 > www.houstonscaleautoracing.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Single new tire problems? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 22:28:24 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Single new tire problems? I remember something that the Tire Rack representative said in a Tech session at Gateway. He said that if you pair a brand new, full treaded tire with a half worn out tire on the same axle, both tires will wear out at the same time. Now you are probably thinking - "No way! Eventually the old tire will be 100% worn out and the new replacement tire will then be 50% worn out." Nope. The new tire will wear down exponentially faster to equalize the wear of the old tire. Perhaps the Tire Rack rep was telling us this to get us to always buy TWO tires at a time but maybe not. I assume Tire Rack has plenty of experience regarding tires and knows what they are talking about. :-) I had to think about this myself for a while to reason it out. Obviously the new tire is larger in diameter since the tread is deeper. Pairing it with a smaller diameter tire on the same axle would tend to "jack" the car up at that corner. I assume raising that corner of the car puts more weight on that tire. Guys with coilover adjustable height suspensions go to great lengths to equalize the weight on each corner. Obviously the wear rate on a tire is directly related to the weight on the tire. More weight = more wear. Hence, the new tire wears faster until it is the same height as the old tire and therefore carries the same amount of weight. Anyway, that is my idea. Anybody else? So... like Matt. I'd suggest buying another new tire to match the one you got free from the road hazard warranty. Probably not the answer you wanted. But keep the good old tire. You might have another nail when these tires are half worn. Then you can use this saved tire and the other good one at that time. How worn is your spare? If it has never been used, then pair it with your new free tire. Put the good worn tire in the trunk as the spare. You have a '95 M3. All your rims are equal width. It doesn't matter which axle the wheel is on. And you should have equal sized tires front & rear - 235/40-17. I'd then put your two new tires or the one new tire and spare on the rear. I guarantee you the rear tires wear faster on the '95 M3! LOL No traction control and a heavy right foot will do that. ;-) By the way. I would rotate your tires front to rear about every 5,000 miles. Don't rotate them left to right. You said your rear tires are now less worn than the old front? By rights, with a '95 M3 you should wear ALL four tires out at the same time if you rotate them often enough. Sounds like you are doing just this. Good. You might have waited a little too long to rotate but I won't say anything. Whatever you do, I would put equal tires on the rear. I don't think your limited slip differential is going to like two different sized tires. Different diameters means that it will have to "slip" even when driving in a straight line. You don't want to work the differential continuously. You don't have to worry about ASC+T (traction control) with your '95 since you don't have it! ;-) So no problem with different tire diameters screwing up the traction control. ABS could care less about tire diameters. So if you have to pair your new tire with a worn tire, put them on the front. The new tire will quickly wear down and then you can rotate them to the rear and finish off all four tires at once. Good to see a '95 M3 still around. Getting fewer of them :-( Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#10. 17" vs 18" Kumho's for AutoX Use - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 19:34:37 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: 17" vs 18" Kumho's for AutoX Use I am moving my M3 from SCCA AS to BSP or SM for next season. I have a choice of getting 17x9 or 18x9 wheels. I will be running Kumho's. I realize there is probably no data on 18" Kumho's, but my question is assuming the wheels are the same width, would there be any significant advantage to going with the 18" wheels? Has anyone done that comparison with Hoosiers? Chris 97 M3/4