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#1. Re: [E36M3] 17" vs 18" Kumho's for AutoX Use - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 20:05:13 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 17" vs 18" Kumho's for AutoX Use on 11/10/01 7:39 PM, Chris Teague at cteague@home.com wrote: > I am moving my M3 from SCCA AS to BSP or SM for next season. > I have a choice of getting 17x9 or 18x9 wheels. I will be running > Kumho's. I realize there is probably no data on 18" Kumho's, > but my question is assuming the wheels are the same width, > would there be any significant advantage to going with the 18" > wheels? Has anyone done that comparison with Hoosiers? I've not done the side by side comparison with 17's vs. 18's, but there are a couple of things to consider (some of you more serious autocross guys please chime in here): - The 18's are most likely going to be heavier. You want to lower your wheel/tire weight _as much as possible_ for auto-x, where acceleration is so important. Hell, I would even consider running a set-up with a slightly smaller rolling diameter than stock to get the revs up a bit. - 17x9's and 18x9's usually call for a pretty wide tire. I run 17x9 MM11-2's with 255/40-17 Kumho's, and there's an issue with them warming up. On a cool day, they never get to optimal temperature for grip. I think you may have the same problem with your Hoosiers. I plan on addressing it by down-sizing to the new 235/40-17, but I don't think you'll have that option in 18's. _ I could imagine the 18's stiffening up the ride. I don't know where you run, but I have had traction issues in the past in autocross due to too stiff of a set-up. I found that softening my set-up a bit helped greatly. With 18's you'd have less compression and rebound from your first suspension part -- your sidewall. - I had fitment issues with the 17x9's and 15mm spacers. I think thinner rubber might help, but not much. I run -3 degrees of camber as well, so it's not an issue of suspension set-up. You may run into similar issues with the 18's. Navid Kahangi, a Bay Area autocrosser (in Street Mod) and club racer was running 18's with Hoosiers to fit a big brake kit. He had been running a similar set-up in 17's for years prior to that. I think he was on the list for a while but if not, you may be able to get someone to forward your question about comparison to him. Good luck in your search for new R's. -peterg '95 BMW M3, SM #321
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Soliciting opinions - from D L Seeley
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 20:59:05 -0800 From: D L Seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Soliciting opinions > From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> > Subject: Soliciting opinions > > Hi list, > I'm concerned that either most of you are a load of filthy lying pigs, or > that my 97 M3 is seriously down on power. > <snip> > > The car has hardly been driven > Stop right there; I think we've found the problem! Penny doesn't get enough exercise and has gotten flabby. Here are some options: 1) Start lying about your car's power like the rest of the filthy lying pigs. 1) Go out and play! (I recommend a race track) 2) Borrow my truck for a week. Your M3 will feel like a McLaren. Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido," #41 JP 95 330isA, super-commuter 91 Dodge Ram turbo<ha!>diesel 4x4 w/3spd auto
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#3. mmmmmm... boost. - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 23:06:59 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: mmmmmm... boost. Just got done installing my Dinan supercharger. Man. What an ordeal! I think I've lost multiple layers of skin, as well as about 15 real hours of work. That said... Dinan makes an amazingly well throught out kit. While there were a few moments of swearing, I never had to go to the hardware store to buy something they forgot, every hose clamp, every hose, and it was all precut and fit just like the said it would. Lots of things were a tight fit and there was a few times where I took one look and said, "No way is that going to fit." I spent 2 hours, in pouring rain today, buttoning everything up, bleeding the cooling system, changing the oil, etc. let it idle for 1/2 hour to get the supercharger bearings all lubed up and went out for a spin. Emphasis on spin. I couldn't get traction for the life of me. I'm gonna wait until it's dry until I post some reactions, but initial impressions are WHOO WEEE! :) Car should've come like this from the factory. Tell you he truth, it feels like it could come like this from the factory. The car drives perfectly normally under 3000 rpm, but from there the torque curve takes off like it never did before. Got E46 M3 envy? your car can be faster pretty easily. Just a few weeks ago, I was gettin' all set to buy an E46 M3. I drove one, and thought, "well, that's fast, but... " got back in my car and went home and stewed about it... called Dinan and they sold me the kit for $5495. Definitely not cheap. I put in a new radiator, a thermostat housing, thermostat, radiator hoses, spark plugs, fuel filter, and some other stuff while I was in there. But, that's a LOT cheaper than an E46 would've been. And my car would honestly roast one. :) (well, I guess I'll have to find out, but from a test drive of a 3500 mile old E46 m3, I'm pretty sure he'd see my pretty european taillights. :) It's really amazing. The car's driveability wasn't altered at all. I can't emphasis that enough... this kit is so well thought out. Time to go buy some octane booster! My car shows 165 degree intake air at full boost! yikes! (according to the OBD-2 temp sensor...) Oh well. That leaves room for an intercooler and more boost, once I decide I don't like my clutch anymore. ;) I'm going to pick up some toluene and make some octane booster and see what that does... -kit
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#4. clicking noise - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 23:37:07 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: clicking noise I posted about a weird clicking noise that got louder when I put a load on the alternator. Stupid me found the problem while putting the supercharger in. The main accessory drive belt goes UNDER the idler pulley, not over it. D'oh! I think the belt was just slipping a tad. In other news... anyone know where to buy Toluene or Xylol around here? I'd like 5 gallon or larger buckets... ;) Also, anyone have some sway bars for sale? -kit 97 m3 H&R coilovers AA gen 3 Dinan supercharger powerflex bushings JTD STB BBS RKs
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Soliciting opinions - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 02:39:28 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Soliciting opinions At 11:09 PM 11/10/2001 -0600, D L Seeley wrote: >Here are some options: >1) Start lying about your car's power like the rest of the filthy lying >pigs. >1) Go out and play! (I recommend a race track) >2) Borrow my truck for a week. Your M3 will feel like a McLaren. Donna, you hit the nail on the head with #3! After spending some time on this forum, I began to feel like there must be something seriously wrong with my mostly-stock 95 M3. Sure it's got a JC chip and a factory-size K&N filter, but that's pretty much it. It won't even spin the tires through first gear unless I really really dump the clutch to make the rear end unhappy. It just felt... slow. My buddy's 320hp Mitsubishi 3000GT VR made me jealous. Then I went to Portland, OR for a few days and drove a Nissan Altima rental. Talk about slow! I was forever fighting the transmission downshifting just to keep highway speed on the barest of inclines. Merging into traffic became a nail-biting affair again. My left foot frantically stabbing at the floorboard where the clutch pedal should have been (and those were the lucky times it didn't find a brake pedal). When I got home again, I was amazed how fast my M3 was even at partial throttles. Pulling into traffic involved a seemingly-effortless outpouring of torque from that silky inline-6. Full throttle through second gear accomplished more in a few seconds than the Nissan could manage in three times that duration. And the handling... after you've driven a mortal car, stepping back into the M3 was an absolute joy. It reminded me of my two favorite analogies spoken to me by my friends as passengers: "It just feels like the hand of God is pressing the car to the road." "Wow, I feel like we're hugging the ground in a cruise missle!" Your car may feel slow, but only because you're used to it. These cars are very undramatic about the way they put power down, but I humbly suggest you drive a lesser car for a little while. The contrast may surprise you. - Chris
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#6. So? What's Up? WAS: So, who wants to vote on a sticker? - from Rich
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 04:48:37 -0500 From: "Rich" <rehrlich98m3@mindspring.com> Subject: So? What's Up? WAS: So, who wants to vote on a sticker? OK, so voting is done... it looks like 4 & 13 were the top choices. Does someone have a connection to get the stickers made? If it's possible, I would say let's have both made. Rich Ehrlich Alpine White 1998 M3
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#7. spark plugs - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 01:48:57 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: spark plugs I'm trying to figure out definitively which bosch plug is colder, the 95 or the 96+ plug. The 95 plug is a '7' heat range and the 96+ is an '8'. Bosch.de says that ranges 2-4 are "cold" plugs, while 7-10 are "hot" plugs, which would imply to me that the lower the number, the colder the range. Bosch.com.au says that you might want to try a hotter plug with Leaded Replacement Gasoline, to prevent fouling, and suggests a 9 heat range rather than an 8. This leads me to believe that the '7' heat range 95 plugs are a colder plug, and therefore better for forced induction due to operating colder for less chance of detonation. Before supercharging, I've never had pinging problems (still don't as far as I can hear, just looking for more safety) and both my roomies have. (they have a 96 and 98 M3s.) My 97, running the '7' heat range plug has never had detonation problems. Any of you forced induction dudes tried both plugs? -kit 97 m3/4
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#8. Re: ABS system on 95 M3s - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 07:50:11 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: ABS system on 95 M3s Marc.S.Edwards wrote: > The 1996+ M3s have ABS that is 4 channel sensor, 4 channel brake line actuation > and so can vary the brake pressure independently on each wheel for presumably > better braking under extreme conditions or significant differences between left > and right traction surfaces to the rear wheel. It's true that there is a full 4-channel system on the 96+ and it's true that it *could* pulse the rears independently in ABS operation just as it does in ASC+T operation. However, I've been told by reliable sources that both rear channels are still pulsed in unison during rear ABS operation. If you check the TIS, you'll see the two rear channels being tied together in all the schematics for both '95 and '96+ cars. Probably have to find someone from Bosch to actually verify, but I could see not wanting to rewrite the entire ABS algorithm and rather just splitting the single 3rd channel (rear) signal to both rear valves on the '96+ cars. -- Ron Katona
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#9. Re: [E36M3] spark plugs - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 08:52:18 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] spark plugs Like you've mentioned, In Bosch terminology a lower number indicates a colder plug. But the change in plugs from '95 to '96+ wasn't just the heat range. The '96+ plugs have 4 ground electrodes, versus 2 ground electrodes for the '95 plugs. And, the '96+ plugs are platinum, whereas the '95 plugs are standard. I have no clue what effect putting a 2-ground electrode, standard plug will have in your '97. Personally, in my '95 turbo, I've found a replacement plug from NGK that is one heat colder than stock. Is it better than the stock plugs? I don't know, but it sure runs better than the *worn out* stock Bosch plugs that they replaced. Not an apples to apples comparison. Nick > I'm trying to figure out definitively which bosch plug is colder, the 95 or > the 96+ plug. The 95 plug is a '7' heat range and the 96+ is an '8'. > > Bosch.de says that ranges 2-4 are "cold" plugs, while 7-10 are "hot" plugs, > which would imply to me that the lower the number, the colder the range. > Bosch.com.au says that you might want to try a hotter plug with Leaded > Replacement Gasoline, to prevent fouling, and suggests a 9 heat range rather > than an 8. > > This leads me to believe that the '7' heat range 95 plugs are a colder plug, > and therefore better for forced induction due to operating colder for less > chance of detonation. Before supercharging, I've never had pinging problems > (still don't as far as I can hear, just looking for more safety) and both my > roomies have. (they have a 96 and 98 M3s.) My 97, running the '7' heat > range plug has never had detonation problems.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] mmmmmm... boost. - from The Abels
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 08:48:54 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] mmmmmm... boost. > Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 23:06:59 -0800 > From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: mmmmmm... boost. > > It's really amazing. The car's driveability wasn't altered at all. I can't > emphasis that enough... this kit is so well thought out. Time to go buy > some octane booster! My car shows 165 degree intake air at full boost! > yikes! (according to the OBD-2 temp sensor...) > > Oh well. That leaves room for an intercooler and more boost, once I decide > I don't like my clutch anymore. ;) I'm going to pick up some toluene and > make some octane booster and see what that does... > Kit, Sounds awesome. I think the quality of Dinan's tuning separates this kit from the rest. Any thoughts on toluene ratios for octane boost? What's a good source, is this a Home Depot item? Thanks, Jeff 97 M3/4, a few insignificant, pressureless bolt-ons