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#1. [E36M3] Euro Car M3 - from RogRacer@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:43:43 EST From: RogRacer@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] Euro Car M3 Just a note to recommend checking out the latest European Car. They've had a series of '95 M3 articles...in the latest they've completed adding about the the "bolt-on" NA power enhancements you could perform to the S50. They measured 262 hp at the wheels. That equates to 315 hp or so at the crank. Torques is up similar amounts. That is pretty damn impressive...I would never have believed a few years ago that those kind of gains are possible with bolt-ons. An interesting improvement they found was with an EvoSport pulley set that leaves the stock water pump pulley/harmonic balancer in place. One thing they didn't mention, however, and still bothers me, is the effect of using stock valve springs with those high-lift cams over the long term.... In any case, it seems that the aftermarket and Jim C and company have come thru with some impressive pieces for the S50US. Roger W. Graves RogRacer@aol.com '95 M3...now considering the EvoSport pulley set.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Euro Car M3 - from The Abels
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:41:13 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Car M3 > Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:43:43 EST > From: RogRacer@aol.com > Subject: [E36M3] Euro Car M3 > > snip< An interesting > improvement they found was with an EvoSport pulley set that leaves the stock > water pump pulley/harmonic balancer in place. > > Roger W. Graves > RogRacer@aol.com > '95 M3...now considering the EvoSport pulley set. Hmm, I'm curious about such a pulley set. On my 97, the pulley is in two pieces, a main crank pulley that is integral with and bonded to the large, heavy harmonic balancer, and a second pulley that rests in the main pulley for driving the AC. So, it would seem to me that unless one replaces the main pulley/harmonic balancer assembly, the pulley set wouldn't do a whole heck of a lot. Jeff 97 M3/4, with UDP
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#3. Re: [E36M3] cooling things - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 12:45:54 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] cooling things ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > I'm not 100% sure, but I've heard that the water pump now supercedes to a > plastic impeller version again =( I'd imagine that if you flush the system > regularly as maintenance, the metal impeller version should last a long time. Yes, it's plastic again. I just received a new one from Hendrick. They say it revised/better... yada yada. It's definately made of different plastic than the first ones. Hendrick said the metal ones didn't do so good with the coolant and service intervals on coolant that most people followed. I will still replace this new one in another 50,000 miles. It's cheap preventative maintainance. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3
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#4. oil around spark plugs - from Gary A. Preece
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 12:06:34 -0600 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: oil around spark plugs Hey guys and gals, Subject says it all. Is it the valve cover gasket? I do have a small leak from the head gasket back towards the passenger side. Need to fix this as well. Is the valve cover gasket reusable? I was wondering what else I may need to do if I were to replace the valve cover and head gasket while I was in there. (valve retainers?) My M3 is a 1995 model, build date 10/94 with 83,000 miles. Some times I feel like I would have no problems if I did not lurk on this list. It is amazing at the number of things that someone has happen then I go look and I have the same problem. For example I found a power steering leak when I was replacing the belts, I have had the "BRAKE LIGHT FAIL" and "BRAKE CIRCUIT FAIL" warnings and I had a water pump with the plastic impeller (which I replaced). I remember someone else having oil around the spark plugs, hope they got it fixed and go show me the way. I do not have the shroud under the front air dam. Is there need for any concern? It hasn't been there for a year and OK so far, but I am not sure if I am just waiting for a disaster. Thanks. Gary Preece Louisville, KY
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#5. front wheel shimmy - from russell
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 10:27:23 -0800 (PST) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: front wheel shimmy i'm getting a slight shimmy that feels like its coming from the front wheels. i've rotated the tires front to back and still get it. it seems like it goes away after driving for 10 minutes or so...or at least it gets a little better. the alignment feels ok; the car doesnt pull to either side. no wheel weights have fallen off. i have about 20k miles on these tires. i have 245/40/17 tires on 8.5 x 17 atp wheels on front and back. in the front, i have to use 5mm spacers (from tire rack). anyone else using these and getting anything similar? thanks russell dakar 99 ===== "let's roll" --todd beamer "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat "the most foolish mistake we could possibly make would be to allow the subjected people to carry arms" --adolph hitler __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#6. Rattling noise and oil viscosity - from Chris Huff
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 10:50:17 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Huff <huffgroup@yahoo.com> Subject: Rattling noise and oil viscosity Thanks to everyone that helped me diagnose the problem. Here is what I found. Talking to a friend, he mentioned that a local dealer service manager told him that he would hear vanos noise if he didn't run the recomended oil viscosity from the factory (15w50 where I live). As I mentioned earlier, I had heard that I could safely run low viscosity oil (5w30), and that is what I put in it. Yesterday, I changed out the water pump and decided to change the oil again as well. Befor I changed the oil, I was able to get the noise to happen with the hood up, and it was my Vanos making a God aweful noise. After putting Mobil 1 15w50 in it and letting it warm up and then running high rpm to make sure the new oil was getting to the vano, I ran at 1500-1700 rpm. NO MORE VANOS NOISE!!! Moral, BMW knows what it is talking about with the oil they recomend. Thought I try to help. Chris p.s. I am not trying to start another oil discussion, just sharing my personal experience. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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#7. : mmmmmm... boost - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 14:16:29 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: : mmmmmm... boost Kit, >>Just got done installing my Dinan supercharger<< Highest Contrats! >>What an ordeal! I think I've lost multiple layers of skin, as well as about 15 real hours of work.<< Must be very skilled...You beat Dinan's charged time of 20 hrs! And for a first time installation too! A big pat on your back. Curious....did you get the Dinan software reflash before or after the installation? I'm still curious about what those Black fuel injectors mean... >>Got E46 M3 envy? your car can be faster pretty easily. Just a few weeks ago, I was gettin' all set to buy an E46 M3. I drove one, and thought, "well, that's fast, but... "<< That's one of the main reasons I got mine..It was Dec of '99 and talk had just started about the E46 and the power it might have. I just new that either I was going to have to trade in my brand new one before It had even seen its teenage years, or, do something radical to make me forget it. Now I'm not saying I wouldnt like one, but, at least from a performance perspective, I dont think it has much on ours. >>got back in my car and went home and stewed about it... called Dinan and they sold me the kit for $5495. Definitely not cheap<< Definitely not....But nevertheless, you beat the normal price charged for it. Do you have an already upgraded exhaust? Forced induction can usually make good use of one. >>My car shows 165 degree intake air at full boost! yikes! (according to the OBD-2 temp sensor...)< How did you get this reading? I think an aftercooler, if there was a good one made for our M3s (besides RMS), would lower that by about 100 degrees; an h20 injection system might come close at lower cost. But with ambient temps below about 55, you wont notice the heat soak nearly as much. Regards, and keep me up to date about your impressions, and any upgrades you are contemplating.. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#8. : spark plugs - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 14:19:32 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: : spark plugs Kit, >>Any of you forced induction dudes tried both plugs?<< Generally, its good to try one range colder plug when you go forced induction...However, Dinan does not include this as a recommendation, and I think you'll be fine with your stock plugs...I've kept mine, and I've had no signs of pinging. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#9. [E36M3] Steering Noise? - from twisty M3
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:42:57 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Steering Noise? I've noticed some odd sounds coming from my steering column it seems. I can't tell if it happens at speed, as there is too much road noise to hear anything and I rarely have to turn the wheel far enough to get to the "sound zone." It's a sort of creaky sound on right turns only, close to full lock (i.e. in and out of parking spots). Sort of a "thd, thd, thd" and repeats itself when turning back in the other direction. I haven't really noticed it with the wheel being turned all the way to the left though. At first, I thought I may have had a rock in my tread, but that wasn't it. I also thought the a tire may have been rubbing against something, that that doesn't seem to be the case either. The more I try to listen, I've noticed that it can be felt in the steering wheel, so I'm guessing that there's something up with the steering column. Power steering isn't effected, and there are no leaks. Anyone have any ideas? It's a '99 with just over 65K miles. Thanks for any input, Jonathan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#10. Optima Battery in 95 M3? - from Johnson Family
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 12:47:07 -0700 From: "Johnson Family" <johnsons@dancris.com> Subject: Optima Battery in 95 M3? How do you deal with fact that the Optima does not have a vent line like the factory battery? Aren't these still "conventional" in the sense that Hydrogen gas is vented and, without a vent line, that gas is being vented into the passenger compartment (i.e, trunk)? I've installed an Optima in my other vehicle but have held off on the M3 for this reason. Karl johnsons@dancris.com 95 M3 > Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:29:00 -0800 > From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> > Subject: Optima Battery in 95 M3? > > Optima red top fits fine (with shelf in place). > Lew Becker > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:16:54 -0800 > From: <mroblin@att.net> > Subject: Optima Battery in 95 M3? > > Hello, > Checked the archives, but can't get a clear answer. > > Has anyone replaced their battery with an Optima R34 (8003-151 - Orange top, > reverse polarity)? Looking at datasheets for the Optima red/orange top > batteries, the batteries are 7.8" tall, vs. the 7" tall OE battery. It > doesn't seem as if there is enough room under the package shelf to fit the > Optima posts and retain the plastic shelf. > > Murray Roblin > mroblin@worldnet.att.net > 650 868 0926 > 520 962 0957 fax >