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#1. Re: [E36M3] Radar Detectors v. Chevrolet Trailblazer - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:03:07 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radar Detectors v. Chevrolet Trailblazer Rice racers with interior neon lighting also set it off... -rb >Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 13:32:37 -0800 (PST) >From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radar Detectors v. Chevrolet Trailblazer > >Also a problem with the Oracle sign in Redwood Shores, most Pizza >shop OPEN signs, and a wide variety of red neon. > >Carey _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#2. re: Radar Detectors v. Chevrolet Trailblazer - from andy radin
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 14:04:17 -0800 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: re: Radar Detectors v. Chevrolet Trailblazer "The Trailblazer probably has a neon-powered Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL). ... I don't think there is an easy fix since the neon infrared energy has a really fast rise time, just like a laser pulse. The pulse repetition rate is within the expected range for real laser guns, making a real monster of a software project: " interesting. My V1 falses laser-wise under two conditions around here: driving into the sun at sunrise or sunset with water droplets on the windshield directly in front of the sensor, and driving by the damned giant LED video display alongside Hwy 101 in Redwood Shores (near San Francisco). Like he said, I'm betting that laser gun detection is going to remain very difficult to weed out reliably, given how many everyday things emit IR. Luckily it's still legal to jam laser guns (and luckily they're not using them in the Bay Area yet).
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#3. E36 wheels on E34 - from Brent95M3@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:14:28 EST From: Brent95M3@aol.com Subject: E36 wheels on E34 I was wondering if with spacers you could make this fit without problems. Wheels are 17X9 Forgeline's. Thanks, Brent Parks soon to part with his "1 BAD M3"
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#4. Re: [E36M3] re: Radar Detectors v. Chevrolet Trailblazer - from Reid Conti
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 14:41:58 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: Radar Detectors v. Chevrolet Trailblazer When the laser-detecting V1 came out, this was first a problem with neon in stores (most video stores use a lot of neon for example) and the Lincoln Mark VVVIIIIII or whatever was out at the time, with a neon chmsl. My digital camera's autofocus also sets it off. I wonder why other detectors don't false similarly. I would have to assume that they would fail to pick up some laser guns (that or they know something Mike doesn't, or Mike's covering his ass for making an overly-broad laser detection range.. but I tend to believe him). If you live in an area w/out laser and would prefer the falses go away, you can turn off the V1's laser detection: http://www.valentine1.com/lab/MikesLabRpt3.asp hth - reid > "The Trailblazer probably has a > neon-powered Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL). ... > I don't think there is an easy fix since the neon infrared energy has a > really fast rise time, just like a laser pulse. The pulse repetition rate > is within the expected range for real laser guns, making a real monster of a > software project: " > > interesting. My V1 falses laser-wise under two conditions around here: > driving into the sun at sunrise or sunset with water droplets on the > windshield directly in front of the sensor, and driving by the damned giant > LED video display alongside Hwy 101 in Redwood Shores (near San Francisco). > > Like he said, I'm betting that laser gun detection is going to remain very > difficult to weed out reliably, given how many everyday things emit IR. > Luckily it's still legal to jam laser guns (and luckily they're not using > them in the Bay Area yet).
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#5. Re: [E36M3] E36 wheels on E34 - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 16:34:58 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 wheels on E34 Brent, AFAIK, they will not work without some metal work. E36 wheels have a 72.5mm hub bore while 5 and 7-series cars have 74mm hub. There is also a matter of a smaller offset used on 5-series cars, but goin from 3 to 5 series you could solve that with 15mm spacers. alex f Brent95M3@aol .com To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> cc: 11/12/01 Subject: [E36M3] E36 wheels on E34 04:19 PM Please respond to Brent95M3 Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:14:28 EST From: Brent95M3@aol.com Subject: E36 wheels on E34 I was wondering if with spacers you could make this fit without problems. Wheels are 17X9 Forgeline's. Thanks, Brent Parks soon to part with his "1 BAD M3"
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#6. RE: Suspension Upgrades - from Rick Pocock
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:54:07 -0500 From: "Rick Pocock" <rick@dovetailracing.com> Subject: RE: Suspension Upgrades Rich-- I faced the exact situation a year ago for my 1998 M3/4. After a lot of research and a lot of assistance, I made the decision to go with the Sachs coilover and adjustable spring perch setup. I couldn't be happier with it. It's not as aggressive as most of the other packages, so the ride doesn't deteriorate too much (although you can immediately feel the much stiffer suspension). I bought my setup from Bekkers. I also bought UUC's antisway bars. I've lowered the front 1 1/4" and the rear 7/8". The on-track behavior of the car is fantastic. I've dialed out most of the understeer, the car corners very flat, and the transient response is much improved. It's a joy to drive on the track and I don't lose my fillings on public roads. For what it's worth, I'm told the AC Schnitzer package is identical to the Sachs package...that Sachs and Schnitzer co-developed the setup and that Sachs produces and private labels the package for Schnitzer. Same components, but much less expensive from Sachs. Rick Pocock Dovetail Racing ITB Alfa Romeo Spider From: "Rich" <rehrlich98m3@mindspring.com> Subject: Suspension Upgrades If I go the strut/lowering spring route, what brands give good handling? I was thinking Koni adjustable (They came stock on my Neon ACR and I really liked them) With coil-overs, what am I getting into? I really don't plan to change the settings once they are adjusted. Nor do I want lay out $1k plus for a suspension that sucks. Any suggestions/personal or online reviews are appreciated. Rich Ehrlich Alpine White 1998 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 16:35:23 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades Rich, I think we are in the same boat. My 60K mile OEM Boges are past dead and will be replaced this winter. After driving friends' cars with components from Bilstein, Koni, Dinan, K&R, Eibach and GC, I am leanings towards one of the two TC Kline kits: StreetLine or RaceLine package. I drove an M3 with the StreetLine kit and the only complaint I had is that it was taking too long to settle on the rebound compared to GC coil over suspension. I'm hoping the RaceLine (with H&R Sport 29910 springs) will partly cure that. One thing is for certain: I'm not installing Bilsteins on my car even if they paid me to do so. Well, only if they paid me a lot of money ;-) Please share with me/the group the final tally of suggestions that you get. alex f '95 M3 "Rich" <rehrlich98m3@minds To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> pring.com> cc: Subject: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades 11/12/01 02:19 PM Please respond to "Rich" Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:16:15 -0500 From: "Rich" <rehrlich98m3@mindspring.com> Subject: Suspension Upgrades I have decided that I am going to replace my 50k mi suspension. I mostly drive city/suburban roads at a range of 20mph-60mph. I plan limited track use and a few long road trips. Part of me says "Just stick with OEM set-up. It's good enough out of the box". But, the price difference between OEM and high performance is almost unimportant. I would like to lower the car just a bit. I just have no idea which path to take: If I go the strut/lowering spring route, what brands give good handling? I was thinking Koni adjustable (They came stock on my Neon ACR and I really liked them) With coil-overs, what am I getting into? I really don't plan to change the settings once they are adjusted. Nor do I want lay out $1k plus for a suspension that sucks. Any suggestions/personal or online reviews are appreciated. Rich Ehrlich Alpine White 1998 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] brake pad choice - driving schools - from Roy Kao
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 18:07:21 -0500 From: "Roy Kao" <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] brake pad choice - driving schools Bob, I use the PF-Zs on the street and just started using PF97's on the track/in the summer when it superceded PF90s. Firstly, I wouldn't suggest mixing and matching brake pads on the track, given that they behave differently as they heat up. I would definitely recommend the 97s for the track but I seriously recommend AGAINST using them on the street. I did it for the first time this summer and there was pitting on my wheels and rust stains on my driveway...not a good idea in the long term. PF90s were my first track pads and their stopping power absolutely astounded me. The 97s seem to be noisier and generate lots more dust, but they do have better bite when cold than the 90s. As for the street, I use the Z pads as a compromise since I use the same brake discs for street and track. Our local expert told me that their compounds are similar so bedding them in after swapping is an easier process. We use the BMW OEM pads on our family's M Coupe and they are still very impressive for the street, though it's also dustier than the Z pads. Now that my car will be a street car only, I will probably go back to the OEM pads (Pagid or ATE I think). So there's my $.02, not sure if it helped. Roy '99 M3/2 >I did my first driver's school last weekend at CMP. I >had EBC Reds front and rear with homemade brake >ducting. > >The brakes looked almost brand new after the first >day. Since I was learning the track, I took it easy on >the brakes. The second day, I wore them out in two >sessions! > >This weekend I decided to rebuild the front calipers, >since the dust boots had pulled out of the caliper. >One of the pistons was slightly pitted. I heard that >there are no replacement pistons? Is there no way to >refinish the piston? > >I decided to check the rear calipers also. To my >surprise, the rear pads were almost completely gone! >Is it common for M3's to wear rear pads at a similar >rate to the fronts on the track? > >So, I need to buy some new pads. The concensus at the >track from the M3 owners seemed to be the PF90's. I >forgot to ask about rear pads. Are people matching the >PF90's in the front with Z-rated pads in the rear? I >figure I could run Z-rated pads front/rear for the >street, and just swap the front PF90's for the track. >Seems reasonable? > >TIA, >Bob > >===== > >------------------------------------------------------------ >Robert Liu >bob_a_liu@yahoo.com >ICQ# 22765210 > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Find a job, post your resume. >http://careers.yahoo.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:17:02 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades I ended up going with the TC Kline "Trackline" suspension, which is just the H&R Sports with Koni single adjustable shocks/struts. I noticed that mine was taking too long to settle at first also, but that's the beauty of the adjustability. The car feels perfect in my opinion now, after the initial tinkering, and it's just a blast at the track! Even with just the rebound adjustable Konis. Jonathan L. >From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com > >I am leanings towards one >of the two TC Kline kits: StreetLine or RaceLine package. I drove an M3 >with the StreetLine kit and the only complaint I had is that it was taking >too long to settle on the rebound compared to GC coil over suspension. I'm >hoping the RaceLine (with H&R Sport 29910 springs) will partly cure that. > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:17:29 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades Rich, Based on your description of 20-60 mph city driving and a few long trips, I don't think you don't want Bilstein shocks. You have to really really REALLY love a stiff shocks and then you have to keep telling yourself that; or else about 500 miles into that long trip of yours you will want to drive your M3 in a ditch and junk it. :-) Any passengers will have long since jumped out in favor of walking. Bilsteins are absurdly stiff. They are serviceable for short commuting trips but they are unnerving on long trips. Plus they don't work with lowering springs unless you remove the front bumpstops. Koni's are more streetable. Koni's are more difficult to install since you have to cut open your stock struts for the Koni inserts. But all the work can be done at home with just hand tools. Pricewise, if you shop around you can find Koni's for about the same price as the Bilsteins. Springs come down to how much you really want to lower your M3. Dinan, Eibach, and H&R OE springs don't lower you car enough to tell the difference. H&R Sport (aka Street Performance) springs make a noticeable difference. The H&R Race springs may be lower than you want to go. I've got Dinan springs on my M3. But if I had it to do over again, I would get the H&R Sport springs. Coilover suspensions are going to cost more than just springs and 4 Koni shocks. Coilover can be any height you want based on the springs you choose. However, you may not want to mess with coilovers based upon your limited track use. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilstein/Dinan Dallas, Texas