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#1. Re: [E36M3] rear brake pad life? - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:03:59 -0800 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear brake pad life? Actually it is due to the brake bias the M3's have from the factory. I noticed the same thing on both my 95's. Even with 99% street use, the rears would have maybe 20-25% left vs the fronts at 0%. Also, I think that might be why most M3s are very strange under braking with no ABS. A rear will lock up fairly quickly and cause all kinds of side stepping. Several ITS folks put in a brake bias control to deal with that. On the track OTH, I get about 2 to 1 wear. I change the fronts twice as much as the rears. basically works out to a perfect, every 2nd set for the front, put a set of rears on. So daily driving wears the rears more so than track driving in my case. Probably due to more weight on the rears during normal driving habits. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> > Given that most of my launches are at that level, especially with the > SC blowing away, I think it explains the accelerated wear rate...From other > cars, most of us are used to an approx. 2 to 1 wear rate of front to > rear....As you say, in our M3s, at least those with ASC, I think its > probably closer to 1 to 1. But you have a '95 b/4 ASC, so Im surprised > youre wearing as fast as me...Except you do alot of track work. Still, no > matter, I would think that the '95s would be closer to the accustomed 2 to 1 > ratio. Interesting.
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#2. Re: brake caliper "rebuild"; replacing the dust boots - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:23:14 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: brake caliper "rebuild"; replacing the dust boots Todd C. Merrill wrote: > What exactly does the phrase brake caliper "rebuild" mean? Pretty much what you describe: replacing the worn out rubber seals and boots and basically cleaning and inspecting the caliper innards. If the piston is pitted it should not be reused and you must purchase a new (or rebuilt) caliper - the piston is unfortunately not available seperately. > The rubber boots or dust rings or whatever they are called that surround > the piston are getting tattered, so I'd like to replace them. Is this a > difficult/risky job? No, not if you take your time, have a clean place to work, and pay attention to detail. Really a very simple job, but these are your brakes. > Any links available on how to do this? http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/caliper.htm is a prety good writeup. Any > special tools needed to get the piston out, and then back in, or do the > boots just come out and get stuffed back in without having to remove the > piston from the caliper? Oh no, the piston has to come out. You could replace the dust boots only without removing the piston, but to do so without removing and replacing the piston seal would be neglegent. You need a source of compressed air and a small nozzle attachment to blow air into the caliper through the fitting for the brake line. This will blow the piston out. Along with the block of wood described on that web page, wrap the caliper in a shop towell to keep the small amount of brake fluid left over in the caliper from blowing all over the garage (and you and your car). You can also just remove the caliper from the bracket with it still attached to the brake line, stuff a rag into the calpier, wrap it with a shop towell, and then step on the brake pedal until the piston pops all the way out. The only problem here is that it can create a mess on your car (brake fluid removes paint), you can damage the brake line if the caliper slips, and the piston can sometimes stick right at the very end. The air tool is easier/faster. Cleanliness is key while inspecting the piston and caliper. Use fresh brake fluid to clean it and wear rubber gloves. Replacing the piston is the hardest part. If it gets slightly crooked, it will get stuck and you may have to blow it out again and start over. I find a large C clamp, a used brake pad, and patience works wonders. Others use those screw-down caliper compressors you can get at Pep-Boys for a few bucks. Still others tap-tap-tap it in. Big thing here is that when you have this just right, the piston will slide right in almost with hand pressure. If you have to really force it at any point, it's crooked - STOP! A slight tap with a plastic mallet can sometimes straighten out the caliper as it goes in. Replacing the outer dust boot is a bit tricky. That web site explains how, but just to claify a fe wthings: Slip it on the piston first and pull it all the way to the bottom of the piston past the slot it normally fits into at the top (open end) of the piston. The boot is now hanging off the closed end at this point extending past the bottom of the piston. The top of the boot sort of flips inside-out at this point. Then place the piston over the opening on the caliper and while "hovering" the piston just over the caliper hole, fit the bottom lip of the dust boot into the groove in the caliper. Now all you have to do is start to slip the piston into the caliper. As it slides in, the bottom of the dust boot will seal into the caliper slot and the top will slide up the side of the piston as it goes in the caliper and eventually will pop into the groove in the top of the piston flipping right-side-out as it does. If you try to fit the dust boot in the caliper first, then install the piston, you'll have a hard time keeping it from bunching up and the piston will now be in your way of fixing that. Hard to explain... trust me on this. > My skill level is basic DIY maintenance like oil changes and brakes > (pads, rotors, parking brake shoes). You can do this. You will cus a lot the first time... the second will go much easier. You will save a _lot_ of money. -- Ron Katona
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#3. Re: [E36M3] rear brake pad life? - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:39:45 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear brake pad life? interesting tangential story: my fiancee's 2000 Volvo S40 needs new rear pads every 20K miles. this is rediculous to me, as my '94 Civic's front pads first needed replacing at 80K, and I plan to never do the rears (well, especially since i've sold the car and bought an M3 ;-). i've talked with lots of Volvo techs about this, and they all point to the Volvo's heavy rear brake bias as the culprit. allegedly, Volvo uses this to reduce "dive" under braking. i'm not sure if i believe this, but there is a consensus with those fluent in all things Volvo. possibly BMW's engineers are thinking along the same lines. -=zs --- Michael Lawrence <95m3ltw@home.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:03:59 -0800 > From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear brake pad life? > > Actually it is due to the brake bias the M3's have from the factory. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals http://personals.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 18:22:59 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o Dave, For stock springs, I use the cheap $10 one at: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3980 Works good on the H&R sports also. I don't know anything about the H&R c/o setup. I thought with most ride-height adjustable coil overs, you just spin the ride height adjuster down enough so you don't need a compressor. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 13:06:15 -0600 > From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> > Subject: Spring compressor for H&R c/o > > Can anyone recommend a spring compressor for the H&R c/o front springs? > The hooks on the Craftsman one I have are too bulky to fit between the > coils. > > Thanks, > > Dave > 95 M3
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#5. Looking for wrecked M3 to use as parts car - from Jonathan Heiliger
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 18:41:43 -0800 From: "Jonathan Heiliger" <loco@donutzracing.com> Subject: Looking for wrecked M3 to use as parts car If you have or know of a "wrecked" E36 M3, please shoot me an email. Specific parts needed are: front clip, front suspension and some rear suspension components. Thanks! -jh-
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#6. FS: E36 Camber Plates/Belts and Bar/EMS Guages/etc - from Chris Brown
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 22:37:12 -0500 From: "Chris Brown" <ChrisB@Drextec.com> Subject: FS: E36 Camber Plates/Belts and Bar/EMS Guages/etc Hi Folks - The '95 M3 left for a new home yesterday (sigh). Thanks to all who inquired, but the car now lives in CT. I have a few goodies left in the garage here in NJ that I would like to get rid of, here they are: Eastern Motorwerks Guage Panel http://www.easternmotorwerks.com/products.htm - Complete, never installed "Option 2" setup with VDO Cockpit Oil Temp, Oil Press, Volts, JTD Oil Block Adapter and Carbon Fiber overlay (you don't _have_ to use this). This is a brand new setup, complete with wiring harness and all instructions. New Cost $399 w/o carbon overlay ($8 new from MK Autosport http://mkautosport.com/prilist.html ). Make offer on either or both. TC Kline Front Camber/Caster Plates - New, never installed with proper hardware. http://www.tckline.com/OPC/TCKROPC.html New Cost $550 Racer Net - Make Offer Speedware Motorsports Stainless Steel Harnessbar with Schroth Competition 4 point harnesses - New Cost $700+ - Perfect Condition, used two days - $500 for the set New Bosch Ox Sensor ('95 E36 M3)- Make Offer JT Designs "STN Active Tranny Rings" http://www.jt-designs.com/ mounted on stock E36M3 Transmission Mounts. New Cost $79 - Make Offer Automotion Short Shift Adapter - Mounted on stock E36M3 Shifter - New Cost $99 - Make Offer Stock M3 Leather Shift Knob - Make Offer All FOB Marlton, NJ Have a great Thanksgiving week, everyone - Chris Brown ------------- http://www.ChristianBrown.com
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#7. FS: Black non-power vaders - from Rob Birkhead
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:23:59 -0800 From: Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> Subject: FS: Black non-power vaders I am going to a set of Recaro SRD and need to sell my Black Vaders. I am asking $1000. They are in great shape with little visible wear and no fading. Prefer local buyer (SF Bay Area) but if buyer is willing to pay charges I will ship. Email for pictures. Thanks, Rob B.
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#8. Re: car cover - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 23:39:22 -0500 From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: Re: car cover I've been really happy with my NOAH cover. The NOAH material is thick enough to provide pretty good scratch/ding protection, and it dries really quickly (so no water stays trapped on the paint). Can't remember where I got it, but they're pretty easy to find in a custom cut - I seem to remember paying around $140-150 four years ago. ChipM >-------------------- 7 -------------------- >Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:01:27 -0500 >From: "Patrick Mallon" <zez413@home.com> >Subject: Car Covers > >It seems the M might have to spend some time outdoors in the near future. >Does anyone have any recommendations for an outdoor car cover and/or >supplier for the cover in question? > >I would appreciate any suggestions > >Patrick Mallon >98 M3/2 > > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 00:15:08 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o Even cheaper than Harbor Freight, go to AutoZone. AutoZone has a free rental policy. You buy the spring compressor and just return it for your money back when you are done. I have the Harbor Freight spring compressor. However, the AutoZone model is much better. It is basically one piece, very easy to use. But like Chris, I have to ask why you need a spring compressor with C/O's. H&R uses the small diameter "racing" springs as other C/O's brands, right? The spring is only 7 or 8 inches long. Usually with C/O's you are worried about the spring coming off its perch when you lift the front wheel off the ground. However, if you truly do need a spring compressor with H&R C/O's, then neither the Harbor Freight or AutoZone spring compressors will work. They are too big. Good luck. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - struts off and on about 14 times and counting Dallas, Texas
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o - from Rob Birkhead
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:36:32 -0800 From: Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o The problem with the H&R C/O kit is that the front springs are progressive and therefore much longer than the normal 7" Eibach or H&R 60mm racing spring. I know, I have both. With the standard 7" spring, no compressor is needed, but these progressives are a pain. I rented the AutoZone specials and they were too big. What I ended up doing was having a friend push down on the hat which compressed the spring enough for me to get the nut started. No way you can do this with the linear-rate springs but the first 1/4" or so of these progressives didn't take too much to compress them. Not a perfect solution but give it a shot, it worked for me. Rob B. H&R C/O and TC Kline-built Koni DA c/o kit.... -----Original Message----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 9:19 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 00:15:08 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring compressor for H&R c/o Even cheaper than Harbor Freight, go to AutoZone. AutoZone has a free rental policy. You buy the spring compressor and just return it for your money back when you are done. I have the Harbor Freight spring compressor. However, the AutoZone model is much better. It is basically one piece, very easy to use. But like Chris, I have to ask why you need a spring compressor with C/O's. H&R uses the small diameter "racing" springs as other C/O's brands, right? The spring is only 7 or 8 inches long. Usually with C/O's you are worried about the spring coming off its perch when you lift the front wheel off the ground. However, if you truly do need a spring compressor with H&R C/O's, then neither the Harbor Freight or AutoZone spring compressors will work. They are too big. Good luck. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - struts off and on about 14 times and counting Dallas, Texas ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************