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#1. heel and toe in an m3? - from David Michael
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 11:25:24 -0500 From: "David Michael" <carieanddavid@mediaone.net> Subject: heel and toe in an m3? Hi All, In October, I attended my 3rd driving school in my M3 (NHIS in New Hampshire). I getting better at learning my limits, the cars limits, the track etc. But one thing I cannot do well is heel and toe for smoother downshifts. It's not that I do not know how- I could do so on my Alfa easily. Its more like I cannot physically do it; The brake pedal ends up too far below the gas pedal and I cannot contort my foot in any way that would allow me to brake with full force and blip the throttle. Is there anything I am missing here? Can the brake pedal be raised? Can the throttle be lowered? What to all you track junkies do? FWIW, I do not have driving shoes, and I have relatively small feet. Also, a few weeks ago there was a thread about new shocks/springs etc. I am in a similar situation as the lister who started the thread - 52,000 on the original shocks. But my eaxt needs I think are a little different. I figure I will just replace the shocks without changing the springs. My reasoning is: a:I drive the car in winter and cannot afford any lowering due to snow clearance b:I am not a good enough driver to be able to properly set up a coil-over system c:The fastest guy in my run group was very low key, did not talk (or know much about) about suspensions, tires, shocks or other go fast bits and was running stock suspension with oem (but not original) shocks. d:I commute a fair distance and so not want the ride to suffer So my choices are OEM Bilstein Koni. Comments? Opinions? The only reason to change the suspension now is that it would be cheaper. If I did, it would definitely be a coil over system for reason a: above. Anyway, thanks for your kind and sage advice Dave Michael 98 M3/4 52,000 90 200 QA 178,000
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Advice on shift gate slop please - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 12:20:29 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Advice on shift gate slop please Thomas, There are two main areas that induce slop. 1) Take a look at this link. It explains where the slop comes from the end of the selector rod. New BMW parts will reduce the slop at this location. http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_ Code=RE&Category_Code=SS 2) The other part of the slop has to due the with the bushings at the end of the shifter carrier. If you buy the derlin bushings for the end of the rod the slop will be eliminated. These bushings come with the Rogue Engineering short shift kit which I highly recommend. Look for the post of my review of the kit soon, possibly today. I could not believe how much slop was in the stock bushings. http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/shifter/delr in_bush_large.jpg There is one other area of slop but it's minor and that's in the the shift knob itself. Take your leather shift knob in one hand and use your other hand to hold the lever itself (through the shift boot) and you'll feel the slop due to the friction type of attaching that bmw uses for the knob. I don't know if aftermarket knobs eliminate this, maybe someone else could comment on this. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 - RE SS equiped :) Delaware, OH
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#3. Re: [E36M3] FS: Clear Sidemarkers - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 09:42:52 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] FS: Clear Sidemarkers on 11/24/01 11:29 PM, Reid Conti at reid@conti.net wrote: > I'm a little confused. If they're the corner markers, I think the coupe > and sedan are different. Certainly the E36 corner markers don't fit an > E34. If they're the turn signal repeaters on the fenders, I thought 92-95 > was one style, and 96+ was another style. Wasn't aware the E34 used the > same ones. They're not corner markers, they're side markers (on the fender). BMW replaced them at the same time they replaced the front grille on the E36, which was some time in mid '97. I won a '95M3 and a '96 328i, and they both use the same type. The E34 shared the same side markers, as well as some other parts. -p
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#4. Re: Advice on shift gate slop please - from Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 13:41:18 -0500 From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <rob@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: Advice on shift gate slop please There are four main areas of shifter slop, some you can fix, some can be fixed cheaply, and some you sort of have to live with. Since you asked about the UUC Ultimate Short Shifter, I will also explain how the UUC upgrade will fix the problem: 1) tension bushing The tension bushing is the small piece of foam that keeps the selector rod joint at the end of the selector rod tight. While replacing the entire joint (about $16 in parts) is a good idea, the biggest culprit is the bushing itself. Instead of simply getting the "correct" E36 M3 part, there's an upgraded part from the E30 M3. This is BMW p/n 25 11 1 203 682, retail $1.50. For a pic of the entire selector rod joint assembly, see: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/pics_techtips/shifter_par ts_sm.jpg 2) shift lever lower pivot bushing This is irreplaceable, to fix it you need to replace the entire shift lever (about $30). However, you will soon run into the same slop as this bushing wears relatively quickly. That's a fact of life with all BMW shifters, despite the thermoplastic upgrade around 1990. The UUC Ultimate Short Shifter includes UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) bushings as standard, and can be upgraded to stainless steel bearings (lower friction, enhanced precision) for $25. 3) shift lever flexing As above, the factory lever's internal section loosens up. Even when new, a factory lever can flex noticeably. The UUC Ultimate Short Shifter is virtually flex-free. The recently introduced EVO II series utilizes a high-durometer bushing material that is also a superb acoustic isolation barrier, while maintaining a flex-free lever. 4) transmission internals Even with all of the above taken care of, there is still slop within the gearbox itself. Even with a brand-new gearbox, you will still experience that. Sorry, UUC doesn't do performance transmission rebuilds... yet. 5) rubber carrier bushing The carrier is the cast aluminum assembly that holds the shifter in place and connects to the transmission. See: http://www.shortshifter.com/images/ha_ani/carrier_wiggle_ani.gif We've measured about 13 degrees of rotational slop in each direction, which is definitely noticeable. A new bushing will help, but UUC makes delrin carrier bushings that eliminate this motion: http://www.shortshifter.com/pictures/delrin_carrier_bushings.jpg The delrin carrier bushings are $25 by themselves or included at no charge with every UUC shifter kit. So to answer your last question, a UUC Ultimate Short Shifter would dramatically reduce your slop issue by eliminating problems #1, #2, #3, and #5. Hope this helps. - Rob Levinson UUC Motorwerks * http://www.uucmotorwerks.com * 732.398.0001 > Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 10:48:59 -0600 > From: Thomas Salva <tsalva@ix.netcom.com> > Subject: Advice on shift gate slop please My 98 M3/4 with 51000 miles (and 11 > track schools) has the following problem: when the shifter is in any gear you > can "row" the lever around about a 1.5" dia. circle --> i.e. slop. Also when > it is moved to the next gear is moves very loosely, that is there is no > feeling of overcoming a detent to pull it out of one gear and into the next. I > took it to the dealer to fix several other problems (air pump, airbag sensor & > shift knob light), they did not fix it but the Tech. made the following > statement: "found slight movement (in the shifter); recommend replacing shift > rods and bushings first. But problem could be more serious." Is the dealers > recommendation correct ?? Would a UUC short shift kit or other aftermarket > shift kit solve this problem ????? >Thanks Thomas > 98M3/4 - Floating Rotors, Schroth Rallye 4s, VDO gauges, Shark Injected
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Advice on shift gate slop please - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 15:19:46 -0500 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Advice on shift gate slop please I'm confused about which tension bushing to install. I have three alternatives that I ordered last week from BMW to sort this out: The 3 Tension Bushings received last week from BMW were: ~TWO GOLD BUSHING OPTIONS~ 1. E30 M3 yellow-gold bushing (25-11-1-203-682) as recommended below. It is shaped like a squat barrel: -height 8.5mm -diameter middle of barrel 15.6mm ends of barrel 13.0mm 2. I have a complete joint (E36 M3) P/N 25-11-1-222-649 that came with a gold bushing pre-installed. The bushing appears to be the E30 M3 one above. It doesn't appear to be removable without damaging it. The joint's metal bore to receive the bushing is 15mm, so the outer 0.6mm of the 15.6mm bushing provides a friction fit. ~ONE BLACK BUSHING OPTION~ 3. I have a BLACK bushing that was on the 328i BMW parts CD, P/N 25-11-2-226-585. It appears that is what is shown in your photo URL you gave below: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/pics_techtips/shifter_parts_sm.jpg It is shaped like a cylinder, not a barrel: -height 11.6mm (compare to E30 was 8.5mm) -diameter is a constant 16mm DUROMETER READINGS For the E30 gold bushing, the durometer reading is 30 For the 328i bushing, the durometer reading is 32. This is independent of that fact that it's almost 50% thicker than the E30 M3 bushing. _________ Thoughts? I keep reading that the E30 M3 is the better part, but the .JPG shown below shows the part I ordered off the 328i parts list: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/pics_techtips/shifter_parts_sm.jpg ....and that part is 50% thicker, harder as measured by a durometer, and fits more snugly in the joint (larger diameter and constant radius instead of E30 M3 barrel fit) Not picking on anyone....these parts are getting installed with my new clutch tomorrow at 8:00 a.m. by the dealer! My gut feeling is to go with the black bushing. On my BMW microfiche, the '95 M3 doesn't even have a part number shown in the parts list for the bushing. I have to go to the E30 or E36 328i pics on the parts CD. They may have left it out as only orderable with a complete joint....who knows... - Skip Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks wrote: > ~snip~ > 1) tension bushing The tension bushing is the small piece of foam that keeps > the selector rod joint at the end of the selector rod tight. While > replacing the entire joint (about $16 in parts) is a good idea, the biggest > culprit is the bushing itself. Instead of simply getting the "correct" E36 > M3 part, there's an upgraded part from the E30 M3. This is BMW p/n 25 11 1 > 203 682, retail $1.50. For a pic of the entire selector rod joint assembly, > see: > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/pics_techtips/shifter_par > ts_sm.jpg > ~snip~
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Advice on shift gate slop please - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 15:24:05 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Advice on shift gate slop please Thomas, There is one other thing I forgot and that's the play due to the rubber isolator between the two piece BMW OEM shifter lever (see link below). You have to buy a SS kit or rework the stock level (see link below) to eliminate this. Keep in mind removing all these areas of "slop" will transmit more vibration from the tranny to the shift knob but most people prefer that, and knowing what gear they are about to shift into, over the slop. I would suggest going to local BMWCCA chapter meeting and your bound to run into several people that done shifter mods and then you can see what it feels like for yourself. http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_shorten_shift_lever.html Jeremy Lucas 95 M3
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#7. Euro Headlights -- ellipsoid or freeform? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 12:26:58 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Euro Headlights -- ellipsoid or freeform? Howdy! I'm looking to buy some euro headlights, and have to make the decision between the ellipsoids and the freeforms. My understanding is that the ellipsoids were made by both Bosch and ZKW and were available on 92-95 3er. The ellipsoids were then replaced by a freeform unit (no projectors) made by a third company (can't remember the name) for the 96+ E36 3er. Both lights used a similar glass cover, unlike the plastic US one. I've heard that the freeforms are hard to come by, and therefore more expensive (why are they hard to come by if they're the newer style?).. but they have better lighting performance. So what should I do? I like the LOOK of the ellipsoids, but if the freeforms are a lot better and not much more expensive, perhaps I should go with those. What kind of bulbs do the euro units use, anyways? Thanks for any comments or opinions on this matter... I'm leaning towards ellipsoids since they're easy to get and look distinctive, but maybe my money would be better spend on freeforms (if I can find a source!) thanks
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Advice on shift gate slop please - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 15:40:43 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Advice on shift gate slop please > Not picking on anyone....these parts are getting installed with my new clutch > tomorrow at 8:00 a.m. by the dealer! My gut feeling is to go with the black > bushing. even with the entire tranny out, using the larger, longer black tension bushing will be an absolute bear to install. this bushing was used in a TSB for E30 M3s, in an attempt to remove some of the vibration while shifting (until they finally gave up on it, becaue of the buzzy nature of the S14). if you insist on the longer, black bushing, it will require that you (or you technician) cut it down a bit, in order to fit it inside the selector rod gear joint. been there, done that, way too many times. ben liaw ben@rogueengineering.com
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#9. FS: Euro 6 speed conversion package - from Rob
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 13:59:47 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: FS: Euro 6 speed conversion package For sale: Complete Euro Evo E36 M3 6 speed drivetrain conversion from a 1996 w/~30k miles. Includes 6 speed transmission, driveshaft, large-case 3.23LS differential, Euro diff carrier, half shafts, transmission mount, shifter assembly, etc. Everything you need for a complete Euro conversion, not just the trans!. I will consider trades for your 5 speed parts + cash but I'd prefer to sell it outright. This package can be crated and ready to ship in the first two weeks of January and the project should help burn off some of those Christmas calories :) Please e-mail me privately for more information. $3650. Thanks, Rob
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#10. Re: dyno results - from Andy Radin
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 13:03:40 -0800 From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: dyno results > I do however feel that the 1.21 correction factory is a *bit* optimistic. I'd say closer > to1.2 for an NA car and 1.18 for a seriously modified or forced induction > car. Why do you say that? The 17% loss or 1.21 factor comes from Conforti's extensive dyno testing of a variety of cars, among others. Drivetrain losses are mostly sliding friction on the helical (transmission) and hypoid (differential) gear faces. (I'm assuming for the moment that viscous friction in the oiled bearings is relatively constant with load until the film is broken, and is much smaller than the sliding gear friction.) Sliding friction between oiled gear teeth is treated as linear with pressure (aka torque, or by extension, power). By standard theory there's no reason for the efficiency (correction factor) to change as power increases. Have a theory or direct experience to go with your statement? andy r.