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#1. dyno results - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 17:25:40 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: dyno results Rob, >>I do however feel that the 1.21 correction factory is a *bit* optimistic. I'd say closer to1.2 for an NA car and 1.18 for a seriously modified or forced induction car. Anyway.....Happy ///Motoring :) << Why do you feel that 18 percent is not an accurate measure of drivetrain loss? 18%, which is correctly applied by the 1.21 multiplier has been test and applied many times by Mssrs Conforti and others to good effect, and unless there is a particular reason to doubt them, I would continue using it, in the absence of any more concrete data. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. Advice on shift gate slop please - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 17:31:18 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Advice on shift gate slop please Thomas, >>found slight movement (in the shifter); recommend replacing shift rods and bushings first. But problem could be more serious." Is the dealers recommendation correct ??<< I would say that 1.5"diameter slop circle is more than 'slight'. However it does sound like bushings. Why dont you drop Ron Stygar an email ...Hes a pro at dealing with all problems of a shift linkage nature, and now would be a good time to install a short shift kit along with new bushings....Should solve your problem... --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 35K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Euro Headlights -- ellipsoid or freeform? - from The Abels
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 16:33:39 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Headlights -- ellipsoid or freeform? > Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 12:26:58 -0800 (PST) > From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> > Subject: Euro Headlights -- ellipsoid or freeform? > > Howdy! I'm looking to buy some euro headlights, and have to make the > decision between the ellipsoids and the freeforms. > > My understanding is that the ellipsoids were made by both Bosch and ZKW > and were available on 92-95 3er. The ellipsoids were then replaced by a > freeform unit (no projectors) made by a third company (can't remember the > name) for the 96+ E36 3er. Both lights used a similar glass cover, unlike > the plastic US one. I've heard that the freeforms are hard to come by, > and therefore more expensive (why are they hard to come by if they're the > newer style?).. but they have better lighting performance. > > So what should I do? I like the LOOK of the ellipsoids, but if the > freeforms are a lot better and not much more expensive, perhaps I should > go with those. What kind of bulbs do the euro units use, anyways? > > Thanks for any comments or opinions on this matter... I'm leaning towards > ellipsoids since they're easy to get and look distinctive, but maybe my > money would be better spend on freeforms (if I can find a source!) I believe the freeforms are made by Hella. I've never seen them available from any vendors, though one person on the forums from Portugal offered to coordinate a purchase and shipment. The freeforms are supposed to be slightly more effecient. However, there was talk of the ellpsoids being superior if you choose to go with HIDs later. I would get ZKW or Bosch ellipsoids. Be wary, however, as ZKW's knockoffs seem to be finding their way to the states, the latest ones I've seen are "Depo" brand. Pay the extra cash and get the real stuff. Jeff 97 M3/4, in need of a lighting upgrade
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#4. Re: dyno results - correction - from Rob
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 16:53:56 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Re: dyno results - correction Andy, Paul, etc, I know that 18% (x1.21) has been used for years and it probably very accurate for a stock E36 M3, however, I feel that while 18% (approx 40hp at the flywheel) represents the amount of parasitic loss through the drivetrain on a stock car, the ~40hp figure should remain fairly constant even as power increases. So......if the drivetrain "uses" about 40hp out of 240hp total I do not believe it "uses" 84hp on an E36 M3 that dyno's 400rwhp. Way back in the day with a bunch of 944 turbo aficionados this argument was made much more convincingly. Regards, Rob
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#5. Octane Boosters - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 15:48:57 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Octane Boosters I am suffering from the effects of too-low octane gas in my car. This 91-octane crap that the companies are shilling as "premium" is causing a rough idle and loss in power. So, I went searching for homebrew octane boosters: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html This site shows the facts behind a few of the chemicals we've been talking about, and offers a recipe for one of the mass marketed products. Pretty cool to be able to make a gallon of the professionally-packaged stuff for about $5. -peterg
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#6. Rogue Engineering SS Kit Review (long) - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 19:11:22 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Rogue Engineering SS Kit Review (long) I've been living with my RE SS kit for a little while now. I wanted to wait a while after installation to share my review to make sure that there weren't any negatives that showed up during daily use. I had a completely stock setup with a M Roadster lever prior to this install. First off, the kit comes with all the BMW replacement parts you need to do the install, see www.rogueengineering.com for pictures and a list of parts. The non BMW pieces that come with the kit are the pivot relocation adapter, a modified and bent lever that has been swedged to remove internal play, delrin carrier bushings, and a weighted collar for additional vibration damping. Included is a new BMW aluminum shifter carrier with the pivot relocation adapter already installed so you don't have to mess with disassembling the stock parts, just remove the old parts and bolt on the new ones. The only thing that I had to dig up was some grease to put between the ball of the shifter and the nylon cup. For tools all I needed were a flat bladed screw driver and an allen wrench. Having never done a shift kit before the hardest part was the infamous "bitch clip". Even with the additional help of Ron Stygar's website http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_remove_bitch_clip.html I ended up just breaking the black part of the clip off with leverage from the screwdriver. I tried to follow Ron's suggestions but my hands just didn't fit up there very well. It's not a concern since the kit comes with a new clip, just make sure the new one fully snaps into place. A little leverage against the transmission tunnel with handle of the screwdriver helped me fully seat it into place. Once everything was installed, I immediately noticed decreased slop in the shifter due to the delrin bushings at the end of the carrier and the swedged two piece lever. All the ambiguity in the shifter is gone. I can always tell exactly what gear I'm going into and the feel going into the gear is also more exact -- snick as you go past the syncho, followed by a second snick as you come in contact with the gear. Shift effort was reduced from my M-Roadster lever setup (which seemed to be higher effort than other completely stock setups that I have tried). Now since breaking things in a bit the only thing that has changed is the effort has been further reduced as the nylon cup has settled into place with the ball of the shifter lever. There is an increase in vibration that you can feel when your hand is on the lever but the lever itself doesn't shake and it is not audiable. I don't see that as a negative because it is not intrusive and adds a connected feeling to what's going on. That's it. Two thumbs up. It took about 90 minutes including jacking the car up and the 30 minutes I spent messing with the bitch clip. Feel free to email me if you have any specific questions that I haven't answered. FWIW, I also have JTD rings on my transmission mounts but I think those only come into play on the track and don't effect daily use type of shifting. I highly recommend those too. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 Delaware, OH
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#7. Dyno runs - from Gerry Miranda
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 17:50:29 -0800 (PST) From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> Subject: Dyno runs Ok, I also had my car dynoed on 11/19. Three runs are as follows: 303.6 hp 252.7 tq 304.1 hp 255.9 tq 307.3 hp 258.4 tq Cool down sof about 15 mis between runs. Runs had a fan blowing in the front of the car AF ratio is 11.5 from 5000 to 6900. In house temp was 67F Car Specs: 97 M3/4 61K miles Dinan SC 6 PSI @7000rpm AA LTW flywheel , AA HP clutch Yoko A032R on IFG Forged Light wheels SS Exhaust Gerry 97 M3/4 _____ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! GeoCities <http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1> - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
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#8. Dyno runs more - from Gerry Miranda
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 17:54:21 -0800 (PST) From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> Subject: Dyno runs more ooops all HP numbers provided are Rear Wheel HP Gerry 97 M3/4 _____ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! GeoCities <http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1> - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
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#9. FS: Cheap Tires - from Thomas Maus, Jr.
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 22:11:21 -0500 From: "Thomas Maus, Jr." <tbm2@home.com> Subject: FS: Cheap Tires Set of four Marshal Power Racers with at least three quarters tread on them. A unidirectional performance tire, all four are 235/40 ZR17. I believe they are made by Kumho. Will sell whole set for $100 plus shipping (I guess approx. $5 per tire). Reply directly, Tom Maus <mailto:TBM2@home.com> TBM2@home.com=20
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#10. Brakes, Brakes and more brakes - from Steven Tom
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:45:31 -0800 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Brakes, Brakes and more brakes Well so the brake saga continues. I've replaced all four rotors with Zimmerman cross drilled from eurasian, approx $260 for all 4. The holes do not look drilled so they must be cast in. I also added rear porterfield r4s, kept the old front r4s. I did this because I'm still having a warping issues. A note, I warp rotors on the street, granted always spirited driving. So as it stands here's the timeline; EBC's front, stock rear pads- warped new Brembo front rotors within 400 miles. Resurfaced the front only to warp shortly thereafter. Replaced rotors with Euro rotors. Warped euros in 1000 miles. Beginning to think its my braking technique. Starting to be a lot easier on the brakes. Pads lasted 12k miles. New set of EBC's with new Brembo rotors - warped in 1000 miles. I babied the brakes, couldn't believe it. P.O.S. blamed the EBC's. Removed new EBC's. Put on front Porterfield r4s with new Brembo rotors - warped in 1000 miles Current situation, new Zimmerman rotors w/ r4s all 4 corners - jury still out. So in summary, that's 3 sets Brembo's and 1 set of euro rotors in a period of about 25k miles. A little excessive I know but here's my theory. I believe that the aftermarket pads have significantly higher coefficient of friction than stock. The front brakes are grabbing a lot faster than the rear causing more work to be done in the front. By having stock pads in the rear and aftermarkets in front I was generating too much heat hence the warping. Granted this is just a theory I'm exploring. Looking hindsight it all seems to be so logical why couldn't have I figured it out a few rotors ago? I don't know why it took me 4 sets of rotors to realize it. Well the jury is still out on my new Zimmermans/r4s combo. I know that I'm not the only one having this problem. If you are also having this problem, you might try to get a matching rear brake pad set or you can wait about 3 weeks and see if I write back with warped rotors. Also the Zimmerman rotors look pretty cool but do add noise of the drilled rotors. Sounds similar to mud tires on a truck, of course, only when braking. Any comments on my little warping experience. Am I the only stupid one who just changed front pads without changing rears. I just hope that this isn't one of those, "everyone knows" situation. steve