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#1. Re: Loud screech upon startup - from thomas eby
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:28:36 -0800 From: "thomas eby" <thomaseby@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Loud screech upon startup Hi Alex, Yup, I too have a metallic *screech* that occurs at similar times are you describe. Mine is not consistent at all (doesn't happen _too_ much) and I know it's not the belts. A few days ago it started to sound like the starter pinion not releasing quick enough but I have also heard the noise coming from the VANOS cover upon start-up. I had a screw driver to my ear when someone started the car cold. Mebbe the timing chain tensioner(s)? Anyways, hard to say. Voodoo majik. Let us know if you track down your gremlins. tom eby 96 m3 74 02 -- > Just want to know if anyone else had experienced this or might >know what it is. When I do a cold startup, or if the car hasn't been >driven in a few days there is a loud metal type of grind/screech and >then it goes away. I don't normally hear it after its been driven and >then go to start it up. Would like to know if anyone has any ideas. >Thanks, >Alex "HyperM3" Demsky >97 SC 33k on the clock _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#2. Re: Dyno results - from Tim Gergen
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:44:55 +0000 From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Dyno results As for driveline loss. You can use any figure you want, but it would just be a guess as every car is different, depending on manufacturing, fluids, mileage, etc, etc. Why don't you go to a dyno shop with a loaded dyno? For instance, a Mustang dyno is a loaded dyno. You can also do a parisitic loss test on the dyno before the run to determine, more accurately (IMHO), the driveline losses. At that point, you can more accuractely measure the "true" flywheel figures by applying what "your" cars losses are. Just an idea, Tim _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#3. Re: dyno results - correction - from andy radin
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:59:17 -0800 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: dyno results - correction >I know that 18% (x1.21) has been used for years and it probably very >accurate for a stock E36 M3, however, I feel that while 18% (approx 40hp at >the flywheel) represents the amount of parasitic loss through the drivetrain >on a stock car, the ~40hp figure should remain fairly constant even as power >increases. So......if the drivetrain "uses" about 40hp out of 240hp total I >do not believe it "uses" 84hp on an E36 M3 that dyno's 400rwhp. Well, there's an easy way to figure it out. Driveline friction comes from two different sources: 1. bearing drag, oil seal drag, viscous friction, etc. These are proportional to speed only, which is more like Paul's constant 40 hp loss. 2. sliding friction on hypoid/helical gear faces and bearing thrust loads. These are proportional mainly to pressure and thus power, which is more like a percentage loss. The stock M3 uses a helical gearbox and hypoid rear end and loses 17-18% in stockish trim (no argument about this point). Race cars (say BTCC) use straight-cut transmissions (no sliding friction or thrust loads) and hypoid rear ends. They are well known to have lower drag from using straight-cut trannies. If this loss is, say, 5%, then we can say pretty convincingly that sliding friction in the transmission dominates and loss will be proportional to power (AKA straight percentage). If it's 15%, for instance, then we might guess that constant-drag losses dominate. That would support Paul's case. However it could also mean that the (proportional) hypoid rear end gears dominate (take a look at racing diff temps sometime). Anyone ever come across any data? andy r.
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#4. Re: dyno results - correction - from andy radin
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:06:23 -0800 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: dyno results - correction Er, the race cars also make more power so we'd have to take that into account. But you get the idea. andy r. > If it's 15%, for instance, > then we might guess that constant-drag losses dominate. That would support > Paul's case. However it could also mean that the (proportional) hypoid rear > end gears dominate (take a look at racing diff temps sometime). > > Anyone ever come across any data?
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#5. Re: Brakes, Brakes and more brakes - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:57:48 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Brakes, Brakes and more brakes Steven, It's still your braking technique. I use Euro floating rotors and PF90s on the track. There's no way that your street driving is repeatedly generating more braking force in a given amount of time than an A-group student generates during a 25-minute session on the main track at Summit Point. Roughly twice per minute (every 1:20-1:30) the driver must brake from 125mph to about 40mph (Turn 1), and then from 90mph to about 30mph (Turn 5). In fact, these two hard braking events occur within about 30-40 seconds of each other, so there's less than one minute to cool down until the next round. No brake ducts, no cryo-treated rotors, no cross-drilling...and no warping! Your best bet is to enlist the help of a seasoned track junkie in your area to ride with you and observe your braking technique. List members can offer tips on proper braking techniques, but you'll learn best with someone riding along with you, and even demonstrating the proper technique. >Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:45:31 -0800 >From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> >Subject: Brakes, Brakes and more brakes > >Well so the brake saga continues. I've replaced all four rotors with >Zimmerman cross drilled from eurasian, approx $260 for all 4. The holes do >not look drilled so they must be cast in. I also added rear porterfield >r4s, kept the old front r4s. I did this because I'm still having a warping >issues. A note, I warp rotors on the street, granted always spirited >driving. <snip> >... Beginning to think its my braking technique. Starting to be a lot >easier on the brakes. Pads lasted 12k miles. <snip> >So in summary, that's 3 sets Brembo's and 1 set of euro rotors in a period >of about 25k miles. A little excessive I know but here's my theory....> <snip> >Granted this is just a theory I'm exploring. Looking hindsight it all >seems to be so logical why couldn't have I figured it out a few rotors >ago? I don't know why it took me 4 sets of rotors to realize it. <snip> >Any comments on my little warping experience. Am I the only stupid one who >just changed front pads without changing rears. I just hope that this >isn't one of those, "everyone knows" situation. > >steve _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#6. Stealthboxes on '97/4? - from Dahlstrand, Kurt
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 14:14:39 -0500 From: "Dahlstrand, Kurt" <kdahlstrand@empirix.com> Subject: Stealthboxes on '97/4? I was wondering if anyone out there with a '97 4-door has tried installing the JL Audio Stealthboxes. The reason I ask is because JL Audio states on their webpage that the Stealthbox "will not fit the convertible or the '97 or '98 3-series sedan (4 door)." If nobody has, what have you guys w/ the sedans put in your rear deck for some bass? I'm trying to avoid putting a sub enclosure in the trunk because I really like the idea of being able to fold my seats down and use the full trunk. The Stealthboxes seemed like a good way to go to add some decent bass to the HK stereo without sacrificing trunk space. -Kurt
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#7. octane boosters - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 14:33:19 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: octane boosters > This site shows the facts behind a few of the chemicals we've been talking > about, and offers a recipe for one of the mass marketed products. Pretty > cool to be able to make a gallon of the professionally-packaged stuff for > about $5. Saw that site. It has the formula for Suepr 104+ which doesn't make a significant octane difference. The Amsoil Series 2000 octane booster and the NOS racing formula make real increases in octane... 2.7 points and 2 points, respectively. http://www.gtatech.com/news_au_articl.html I have found that 1 gallon of xylene gives about the same performance as a bottle of either NOS or Amsoil ob's and is much more of a pain in the butt. I will probably mix up Xylene for track events, but it's way too much of a pain (and toxic, too) for daily use. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#8. brakes - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 14:34:41 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: brakes I too am a constant warper of brakes. really bums me out. I've been using metal masters and Hawk HP+ pads... might try going back to stock to see if I can stop warping rotors. Lots of the performance street pads out there get their higher coefficient of friction by retaining more heat in the pad... this could cause rotor warping because the pads run hotter. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#9. Re: Brakes, Brakes and more brakes - from Steven Tom
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:34:53 -0800 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: Brakes, Brakes and more brakes I knew this would be the first thing that was brought up because I've seen it a lot on other boards. I have to say that I've been very easy on brakes. I do not have warping problems on the track only on the street. Ironic huh? steve At 06:57 PM 11/26/01 +0000, Ron Buchalski wrote: >Steven, > >It's still your braking technique.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Conforti Cams for the '95 M3 - Post-Install Notes. - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 13:37:41 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Conforti Cams for the '95 M3 - Post-Install Notes. Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> wrote: > > Just a Q.. is the euro HFM useful w/out intake, or no? Yes, it is. However, you can not re-use the stock 3.0" airbox as it will not mate to the 3.5" euro/x40 HFM. Upstream, you will need to procure a 3.5" euro/Dinan airbox (Steve Dinan calls it his, but in fact he just resells the euro airbox after a customary handling fee). Downstream, you will need to buy or fabricate a 3.5"->3" funnel to connect to the air intake boot. I had dynoed my '95 euroHFM-ed M3 with an ECIS intake and the euro/Dinan airbox back to back. The CAI checked in with an extra 3.7 horses and 3.5 ft. #'s of torque (CAI: 227.7/216.3 vs. Airbox: 224.0/212.8 hp/torque). These values are just above the 1% Dynojet margin of error. For me, the difference is too small to justify living with the "shriek of a wounded bird" K&N noises that give me a head ache after driving the car for more than an hour (in TX, the speed limit is where the red line is). Than again some people would give their left testicle to hear those burping shrieks, so I guess YMMV. > I kind of want to retain the stock airbox for the stealth sound, > but wouldn't mind bigger injectors/chip/hfm/cams.. Reid, You don't need the larger injectors and cams for the pure euroHFM upgrade (as per JimC). Once you open the engine to install the cams you will have to add the larger 24# injectors and a new 24# JimC chip. With the euro airbox you can choose to run either the OEM paper filter or a K&N drop-in filter for that extra bit of noise and dirt injection into your engine. In my case both types of filters dynoed with statistically insignificant differences. alex f > > So the saying goes, and so most of us on this list feel. Having owned > > my '95 M3 for a little over a year, I got used to the power from the > > intake/HFM/chip, and wanted more. After careful consideration, I opted > > for the Eurosport cam/injectors/chip combo.