-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Using R compound tires in the wet - from David Ngo
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:50:05 -0500 From: David Ngo <dngo@commvault.com> Subject: Using R compound tires in the wet Hi, This past weekend, I autocrossed in the rain for the first time all year. Until this season, I had used street tires (MXX3s and BFG G-force KDs), but I finally made the switch to Kumhos. Since it was raining steadily, I decided to stay on my street tires (Bridgestone S-O2s) and turned some pretty decent times. In the afternoon, the rain stopped and the course dried out considerably wtih no standing water and patches of dry pavement. I switched to the Kumhos and discovered to my surprise that I had much less traction. I spent much of my afternoon runs sideways. :-) The ambient temperature was in the low 60s (amazing for November in New Jersey!), so I don't think it was a matter of temperature. My Kumhos are decently worn with very little tread remaining; my friend with an E30M3 and relatively new Kumhos had the same experience so I don't think it's a tread issue. What are the general guidelines for running R compound tires in the wet versus a good street tire? I have to say that it was a lot of fun to run street tires again. It felt like I had forever to correct for over- and understeer, unlike the twitchy R compound tires. :-) Thanks, Dave 98 M3/4 P.S. - One of these days, I'll actually get around to posting my one-month impression of my Konis and H&R OE Sport springs. --- David Ngo dngo@commvault.com CommVault Systems, Inc. (732) 870-4618
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: heel and toe in an m3 - from Ron Buchalski
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 23:13:55 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: heel and toe in an m3 Dave, In my M3, the brake pedal is ABOVE the gas pedal, so it makes heel-toe a little more difficult than it was in my E30 318i. If I contort my right foot a little, I can accomplish it. It works better on the track, since I apply more braking and depress the brake pedal far enough to match pedal height fairly well. On the street, with less braking effort, it's harder to do. My brake pedal has very little travel to obtain full braking. I drove another '95 M3 (not on the track), and its' brake pedal was below the gas pedal, and the brake travel was much longer than in my car. It almost freaked me out. I already checked into changing the pedal height and, to my knowledge, there is no way to adjust the height of the brake pedal. In fact, the Bentley manuals for my E30 and E34 show how to adjust the brake pedal height, but the Bentley manual for the E36 makes no mention of it. -rb _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: heel and toe in an m3 - from Andrew E. Kalman
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 16:08:23 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: heel and toe in an m3 FWIW, I have no problems heel-and-toeing in my M3. I have average-width, size 11 feet. Initially I had built a special aluminum pedal cover with both a heel and a toe extension. It's kind of backwards italic L-shaped. But I found I didn't need it at all. OTOH, my E12 530i's stock pedals made it essentially impossible for me to heel-and-toe -- the brake pedal was much too high. So solve this, I removed the brake and clutch pedals (they're made of pressed, thick steel, unlike the plastic(?) ones in the M3) and shortened each one by about 1" by cutting and re-welding them. They're perfect for me now. On the BMWs, my heel-and-toe technique is really a roll-the-ball-of-my-foot-over-onto-the-accelerator-while-braking method. This only works if a relatively small distance separates the brake and gas pedals. On the 530i, I (must) use that special pedal cover. I also have several Alfas, and heel-and-toe is hopeless for me in those cars -- the accelerator pedal is all wrong for my feet. Lastly, in my 914s, I use a completely different heel-and-toe technique, which involves blasting the accelerator with the heel of my foot while the ball rests on the brake pedal. I think this system works in the 914 because I sit very low, and my legs are essentially horizontal. It takes a while to reprogram my flash-upgradeable foot when I drive one of those cars, though. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Using R compound tires in the wet - from Michael Lawrence
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:26:05 -0800 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Using R compound tires in the wet Rule of thumb, any standing water and a R compound tire will hydroplane unless it has plenty of tread to begin with. From my own experiences, Kumhos are the cats meow in any wet condition unless there is standing water. In a heavy downpour, someone has footage of my LTW picking up the drivers side front wheel about 4 inches for about 100ft at kershaw. Yok 032 were not working for the other racers. Neither do street tires. This is in race conditions and YMMV. The rain was so bad, I tried street tires and they were not an option. Kumhos were like new, full tread depth, used 1 weekend. Short of a dirt stocker Hoosier or hand cut rain tire, they work the best here in the south. Road Atlanta, 95 Bmod M3 that has turned 1:35s there easily. Wet track, best times were achieved using FULL RACING SLICKS with no grooves!!!!. Just drive around the standing water. In a autocross, it is a different story all together. Also keep in mind, driving styles and so many other variables come into play on a wet track etc. For ex. in the race, a 5 car train would hit an inch of water, all hydroplane for about 10-20ft and keep going with no problems. I would not want to be anywhere near 5 driver school students hydroplaning at 120mph!!! Also, any wet track days, dont park the car, get as many laps as possible, 1 wet lapping day is worth 5 dry ones in what you will learn with car control and smoothness. M Law ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Ngo" <dngo@commvault.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 2:59 PM .. In the afternoon, the rain stopped and the course > dried out considerably wtih no standing water and patches of dry pavement. > I switched to the Kumhos and discovered to my surprise that I had much less > traction. I spent much of my afternoon runs sideways. :-)
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Many M3 Parts for sale - from Riley, Scott
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:26:27 -0600 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Many M3 Parts for sale Fellow enthusiasts, I am just beginning the process of converting my recently-acquired 1995 M3 into an I-Stock Club Racer. Over the next few weeks, I will have many of the parts typically replaced/upgraded in this conversion available for sale. The car itself is in immaculate shape with only 20k miles. It was a single-owner car cared for by an anal owner that meticulously babied the car which spent its entire life either being washed or sitting in the garage. After seeing the car for the first time, I almost didn't buy it because it was too nice of a car. The majority of parts available for sale are as follows: -Complete M3 suspension (shocks, struts, springs, sway bars) "Only 20k miles." -Driver and passenger Vader seats (black) "Perfect condition. They are in better shape than even what the photos show." -M3 exhaust with cats (no exhaust manifolds) "Fully functioning. Ready to bolt on" -Five (5) "Motorsport" 10 spoke wheels with new Michelin Pilot MXX3s (235/40-17) "Perfect condition. Never repaired or painted" -4 spoke steering wheel with airbag "Even the Motorsport 3-color stitching is bright and shiny" -Passenger airbag assembly -Shifter assembly -Stock airbox assembly -Foglights (2) -Rotors (Non-Euro) -Motor mounts Keep in mind that all of these items have only 20k miles on them and are in immaculate condition. You will not be disappointed. Additionally, I have the following parts from my 1999 M3 (20k mile garage queen as well) that I am in the process of selling: -Shark Injector (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/catalog/catalog_injector.htm) "OBD-II M3s only which are 96+." -Brey-Krause harness bar (www.bkauto.com <http://www.bkauto.com> in black wrinkle) "Perfect condition. Comes with all hardware and is very easy to install." -Schroth 5-pt. competition harnesses (2) in black (http://www.northstarmotorsports.com) "One is still in box. Other one is in great shape." -Schroth Rallye-4 harness in black -ECIS intake with K&N cone filter (www.ecisbmw.com) "Comes with all necessary hardware. Used for 4-5k miles and still looks brand-new." -BBS RCs (17x8, 38ET) with 245/40 Hoosiers (A3SO3) "BBS RCs were purchased earlier this year for over $400 each. Perfect condition. Used for 6 autocrosses. Hoosiers were only used for 1 autocross." I welcome all questions about any of these parts. Shipping for the 1995 parts will be out of Denver, CO and the 1999 parts will be Dallas, TX. Thanks, Scott Riley
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Stealthboxes on '97/4? - from The Abels
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:56:42 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stealthboxes on '97/4? I did, but I do not know the details as my local stereo shop did the install. In looking things over, it looks like they had to drill and extra hole in the rear deck, and use longer mounting screws. They are currently out of the car (I blew one, covered under warranty). When I get the new ones installed, I'll let you know more of the install details. Jeff 97 M3/4, sans bass ----- Original Message ----- From: Dahlstrand, Kurt <kdahlstrand@empirix.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 1:19 PM Subject: [E36M3] Stealthboxes on '97/4? > Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 14:14:39 -0500 > From: "Dahlstrand, Kurt" <kdahlstrand@empirix.com> > Subject: Stealthboxes on '97/4? > > I was wondering if anyone out there with a '97 4-door has tried > installing the JL Audio Stealthboxes. The reason I ask is because JL Audio > states on their webpage that the Stealthbox "will not fit the convertible or > the '97 or '98 3-series sedan (4 door)." If nobody has, what have you guys > w/ the sedans put in your rear deck for some bass? I'm trying to avoid > putting a sub enclosure in the trunk because I really like the idea of being > able to fold my seats down and use the full trunk. The Stealthboxes seemed > like a good way to go to add some decent bass to the HK stereo without > sacrificing trunk space. > > > > -Kurt > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: Loud screech upon startup - from Joseph Lerner
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:10:14 -0500 From: Joseph Lerner <jlaj4@optonline.net> Subject: Re: Loud screech upon startup mine turned out to be the starter. replaced under warranty with 1k miles left Joseph 97 M3 > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:28:36 -0800 > From: "thomas eby" <thomaseby@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: Loud screech upon startup > > Hi Alex, > Yup, I too have a metallic *screech* that occurs at similar times are you > describe. Mine is not consistent at all (doesn't happen _too_ much) and I > know it's not the belts. > > A few days ago it started to sound like the starter pinion not releasing > quick enough but I have also heard the noise coming from the VANOS cover > upon start-up. I had a screw driver to my ear when someone started the car > cold. Mebbe the timing chain tensioner(s)? > > Anyways, hard to say. Voodoo majik. Let us know if you track down your > gremlins. > > > tom eby > 96 m3 > 74 02 > -- > > Just want to know if anyone else had experienced this or might > >know what it is. When I do a cold startup, or if the car hasn't been > >driven in a few days there is a loud metal type of grind/screech and > >then it goes away. I don't normally hear it after its been driven and > >then go to start it up. Would like to know if anyone has any ideas. > >Thanks, > >Alex "HyperM3" Demsky > >97 SC 33k on the clock > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. dents and dealers - from Joseph L Bachman III
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:03:25 -0500 From: "Joseph L Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com> Subject: dents and dealers Ok gang, I've got two questions: 1) I've received my first dent (very upset). It is not big, has not chipped the paint, and it isn't very noticeable. I describe it as a "soft" dent. The dent is on the fender above the passenger side wheel well. I have seen a number of threads describing a service that comes to you and "sucks" the dent out of the panel. Is this a good service? I am worried about causing more of a wrinkle than is already there, or some other undesirable side affect. Does anybody have any experiences with a place that provides this service in the Baltimore area? I am interested to hear thoughts and impressions on this one. 2) I need to go into the dealer for some (warranty) service. I believe someone said they felt that Russell was a high caliber dealership if I am not mistaken? Is this correct? Are there other dealers around Baltimore that perform better quality work? Thanks in advance for the assistance. Regards, Jay Bachman '99 estoril M3/2
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights -- ellipsoid or freeform? - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:17:53 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights -- ellipsoid or freeform? > My understanding is that the ellipsoids were made by both > Bosch and ZKW > and were available on 92-95 3er. The ellipsoids were then > replaced by a > freeform unit (no projectors) made by a third company (can't > remember the > name) for the 96+ E36 3er. Hmm, I don't think that's correct, at least as far as what's available in the U.S. aftermarket. I had a set on my previous 1996 328is, and currently have a set on the 1998 M3/4. Both sets were by ZKW, and AFAIK, they were/are ellipsoids not freeform. > So what should I do? I like the LOOK of the ellipsoids, but if the > freeforms are a lot better and not much more expensive, > perhaps I should > go with those. But if you can't get the freeforms, does it matter? :-) My suggestion would be to give Josh @ Eurosport a call. They've helped me out with some Euro headlight stuff lately, and at least one of the sets I've installed was purchased from them. > What kind of bulbs do the euro units use, anyways? H1, 55W. The kits from Eurosport will include, I believe, some additional high-temp wiring to handle 100W bulbs. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Code 1226 Knock Sensor #2 - from Robert Liu
Top
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:04:29 -0800 (PST) From: Robert Liu <bob_a_liu@yahoo.com> Subject: Code 1226 Knock Sensor #2 Today while driving home, the Check Engine light comes on as I'm driving into my garage. I pulled the code and got a 1226, Knock Sensor #2. I also had this code come up when I first got the car. The bentley manual isn't very clear, so I thought I'd ask the list to be sure. Is the #2 sensor for Cylinders 4-6? The manual shows the procedure involving taking off the intake manifold. Any tips on replacing the knock sensor? TIA, Bob ===== ------------------------------------------------------------ Robert Liu bob_a_liu@yahoo.com ICQ# 22765210 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1