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#1. is Sue still in charge - from Bob Weber
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Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 14:12:48 -0800 From: Bob Weber <bobweber@worldnet.att.net> Subject: is Sue still in charge what is sue email? thanks bob weber
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Extended warranties again - actual experiences - from Rob Jackowitz
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Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 17:59:40 -0500 From: "Rob Jackowitz" <rjme@msn.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Extended warranties again - actual experiences I can certainly share two recent experiences with Warranty Direct's Diamond Coverage which I purchased in January 2001. It covers me for 7 years or up to 100k miles and I paid $1,800 with no deductible, and it is transferrable. In August '01, I found a small, hairline crack in my driver's rear shock tower. Warranty Direct did NOT cover the $1,000 dealer-performed repair as they do NOT cover suspension or suspension-related components. I argued briefly that it was the chassis that was damaged (but I didn't think that they would cover it anyway)but I don't think they cover that either. In November '01, during the process of selling my car, my buyer's dealer determined during a pre-purchase inspection that the steering rack needed replacement as fluid was leaking into the boots. Warranty Direct DID cover $1,327 of this $1,398 repair, including a 4-wheel alignment. My buyer's dealer spoke highly of them. Although the dealer did not accept payment directly from them, they sent me a reimbursement check two days later. Rob _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#3. Re: Retainer "float" - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 18:13:40 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Retainer "float" on 12/4/01 5:18 PM, RogRacer@aol.com wrote: > Next, the "improved" retainers had, if I recall correctly, an extra 10 microns > of nitriding. This is a surface hardening treatment that has no real benefit > to the bending strength of the retainer...which is the typical descibed > failure mode. Roger, I've read the TSB, but don't have a copy of it. My recollection of the failure mode is that the split collets that attach the retainer to the valve stem would pound out their hole in the retainer, relaxing the spring. Improved surface hardening of the retainer starting around 9/94 (?) production fixed it. Neil 96 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Retainer "float" (was Cam timing) - from Scott Chan
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Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 15:30:53 -0800 From: Scott Chan <scottch@juniper.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Retainer "float" (was Cam timing) You are missing my point. The retainers have slipped on the valve stem. It's very easy to see. You look at 24 valve retainers on a head, and 22 of them have maybe 3 or 4 mm of valve stem protruding. And the other 2 have less valve stem sticking out. Basically the hole into which the stems fit have insufficient grip. The retainer slips a few mm, and the spring relaxes a few mm. When the retainers slip far enough, piston-to-valve contact occurs. I can imagine that surface hardening can improve the retainers' retention grip. But heck, if that isn't convincing to you, what do I care. -SC > Next, the "improved" retainers had, if I recall > correctly, an extra 10 microns of nitriding. This > is a surface hardening treatment that has no real > benefit to the bending strength of the > retainer...which is the typical descibed failure > mode. > At the time, > and I haven't really heard any convincing stories to > the contrary in the years since, that the > "classically described" retainer failures are a > result of simple mechanical overrev.
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#5. AC Hydraulic Jack GP - Update! - from Ron Katona
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Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 20:08:45 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: AC Hydraulic Jack GP - Update! Last spam of the digest with this, but I want to get an update on the price out... The AC Hydraulic floor jack group purchase from the Ultimate Garage has been updated based on initial feedback. The deal is now as follows: The group purchase price applies to the following jacks with a total purchase of only six assorted jacks: DK20 $189 DK20Q $209 DK13HLQ $299 DK20HLQ $414 Rubber jack pads for these jacks will be $10 All additional AC Hydraulic jack accessories including the AC Hydraulic jack stands will be offered at 10%-15% off depending on the total size of our order (TBD). Here's a link to view the jacks and accessories: <http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html> Payment will be to me via money order or PayPal only (non-credit card only since I don't have a business account). I'll then pay Steve at the Ultimate Garage and have the jacks drop shipped to each of you (shipping costs based on your shipping address to be included in your payment). I'll seek buyers until the 15th of this month. To get in on the purchase, just send and email to rkatona@bellatlantic.net with a subject of "AC Hydraulic Jack GP". Please use this subject as I'm filtering my inbox on that to be sure to catch everyone who wants to get in - I get a lot of mail and may miss you otherwise. If you've already responded no need to re-send. Don't need to add anything else at this time unless you have some specific question. I'll reply to each person with additional info on payment and shipping. -- Ron Katona
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#6. bump stops on bilsteins - from Dan Hermann
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Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 19:26:40 -0600 From: "Dan Hermann" <dah328@hotmail.com> Subject: bump stops on bilsteins so i got really ambitious (or foolish) and decided to swap the springs on my car and trim the bump stops on my bilstein sports. i got the rears done fine. i managed to remove and disassemble the front strut assembly (@#$@%*!) but i don't know what to do to the strut to expose the bump stop. do i remove the bolt at the bottom of the strut assembly? i don't want to mess up an expensive bilstein strut inadvertently. any pointers would be appreciated. tia, dan 96 M3 (minus front suspension) 88 325is (for times like this) _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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#7. Re: I'm Crooked - Alignment Help - from Ron Katona
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Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 20:38:07 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: I'm Crooked - Alignment Help One thing I meat to mention was to make sure the car was weighted one of two ways when you got the alignment: as the book says, or as you will run it if it's an autocross/track car. If the car isn't loaded properly, that can throw off the camber reading. -- Ron Katona
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#8. Wheel strength - from Butterworth, James R
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Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:32:45 -0800 From: "Butterworth, James R" <JRButterworth@directv.com> Subject: Wheel strength Hi guys I am new to the list thanks for letting me aboard. I recently purchased a 95 M3 (73k diamond schwartz/black) that has the Style 22 stock wheels (10 spoke) which the PO had chromed. When I went for new tires I discovered that 2 were cracked at the outer rim both of which looked like they had hit pot holes/etc. My questions are: do these wheels have a history of this? I think the chrome my be partly to blame, comments? Would you replace with stock or some stronger aftermarket rim? Any thoughts will be appreciated. I have already replaced the radiator (upper hose neck failed catastrophically) and replaced the rear shock mounts with E46 mounts and Z3 re-inforcements. Next up after the rims is the front under tray. Any hot tips on the under tray? I hear these are a known problem, my current plan is to pop rivet Al re-inforcements around the bolt holes and replace the outer plastic pieces (pork chops?). I also have an 88 E30 M3 and a 73 2002 tii. TIA- Jim
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#9. Re: Corner Balancing/Coil Over Post Install - from Ron Katona
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Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 21:22:28 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: Corner Balancing/Coil Over Post Install Noah Paci wrote: > I just installed a set of H&R coil overs in my 95 M3, now I am dialing > in the height adjustment. What is the best way to DIY this process? > Does anyone in the Northern Virginia area have corner balancing scales? > Is there a better way? It seems like after I make an adjustment I have > to wait for the suspension to settle out again. I am dialing in the > coarse adjustment visually, but the fine adjustment I am relying on > counting turns on the adjusters. Can I use scales before it has settled > out again? I must be making this too hard. :) Any/All suggestions wanted. Fact is it's just not that simple... and not that critical for a street car either. A really well done corner balance and alignment from scratch takes me all day because every time you adjust something, it effects something else. You also should disconnect the sway bars, get adjustable sway bar end links to reconnect them without adding a preload back into the suspension, and disconnect the shocks (n/a on struts) during the measurements. I use two floor tiles under each tire with grease between them as sliding plates to release any binding in the suspension. Additionally, I roll and bounce the car (yeah, try "bouncing" my freakin' car!) after adjustments to settle the suspension. The floor needs to be level too. Even then it will never stay 100% accurate after the car has been driven a while if you have most of the stock rubber bushings on the car. However, for a street car you'll find that it's really not all that critical. My experience with the M3 is that if you get the ride height pretty close on all corners, the cross weights will be within about 5% which will not be noticeable in any sort of street driving. What you should do is load the car like you normally drive it and then set the ride height. Find a level surface and measure from wheel center to top of the wheel arch. For a street car, there's really no need to disconnect the sway bars and shocks while doing this. As far as how to know how much to move a spring perch to get the desired ride height change, that's an art. The front motion ratio is 1.55:1, and the rear is 1.25:1. That means in order to get the front ride height to go up 1/4", the front spring perch needs to go up .25"/1.55, or .16". HOWEVER, that's assuming each wheel works in a vacuum, which it doesn't. If you raise one corner, it's pushing down on the opposite corner which then opposes your adjustment. Therefore, work in opposite pairs when adjusting because this is how the car naturally balances. In other words, if the left front is 1/4" too low, you want to raise it 1/8" and lower the right rear 1/8". You'll have to divide by the respective motion ratio at each corner to figure out how much the spring perch actually needs to move at either end. And even then there will be some error due to various bushing deflection, so it really comes down to constant trial and error rather than science although it's good to understand the concepts and basic geometry of what you're working with. Keep going through a few rounds of this until you have the car level at the ride height you want - it can be done. At this point with a race car you would then check the corner balance and alter the ride height in opposite pairs to get the cross weight just right. With a street car you can just skip that step and move on to the final alignment. -- Ron Katona
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Wheel strength - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 18:45:36 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel strength > looked like they had hit pot holes/etc. My questions are: do these > wheels have a history of this? I think the chrome my be partly to blame, > comments? Would you replace with stock or some stronger aftermarket rim? > Any thoughts will be appreciated. I would assume anything is possible if you hit big enough pot holes. My father cracked a wheel on his E38 when he jumped a curb at what must have been 50 mph. My concern would be if anything is bent. Wheel choice is very personal. I remember when I was looking at buying the M3 three years ago that I thought the 10 spokes were the best looking wheel. I almost bought a standard 328i and if I did, I was determined to replace the wheels with the 10 spokes. LOL! Also at the time, I thought the M Contours were the ugliest wheel out there. Well, after a year, I got really tired of the 10 spokes and fell in love with the M forged wheels. The 10 spokes were demoted to snow tire duty and by Spring, I can't hardly wait to take off those ugly 10 spokes and put the forged wheels back on =) It's great with this 65 degree weather in NYC that I still have my forged wheels on ;) Oh, btw, after three years, I still don't like the M Contours. LOL! Of course, to each, his own. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com