E36M3 #1852

Sunday, December 16, 2001 15:09:37

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Koni Question - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#2. Dallas radiator shop - from David Bauer
#3. Brake warning light. - from Carey Probst
#4. Re: This is sad, but true... - from D L Seeley
#5. Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question - from Ron Katona
#6. Re: This is sad, but true... - from bs
#7. Headlight swtich - from Paul Elliott
#8. Re: [E36M3] Dallas radiator shop - from Blair Hartsfield
#9. Re: [E36M3] Headlight swtich - from Chris Papademetrious
#10. TRADE: MM11-2's, two 17x9 for two 17x8's - from Peter Guagenti
#11. Re: [E36M3] Headlight swtich - from Paul Elliott

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Koni Question - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:21:23 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni Question In a message dated 12/14/01 10:58:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com writes: So far, I've come up with the following choices: Dinan springs + Koni SAs (does Dinan sell you strut inserts or the inserts installed?) Euro M3 springs + Koni SAs UUCs springs (similar to Euro) + Koni SAs H&R OE + Koni SAs What about DA Koni shocks? Did you look at these? Aren't they easier to adjust back and forth for street/track/autoxing? Also, are these inserts in the front or whole shocks? I would guess they cost more. Dinan shocks...aren't these Koni SA? Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001

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#2. Dallas radiator shop - from David Bauer
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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:26:05 -0600 From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> Subject: Dallas radiator shop Can anyone recommend a radiator shop in the North Dallas area? My brothers bimmer is overheating and I suspect a blocked passage. TIA, Dave 95 M3

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#3. Brake warning light. - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:51:22 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Brake warning light. The brake pad light in my '99 came on last night. Checked it out. Brakes are fine, about 75% left, but the rear sensor wire was worn and touching the wheel. I used liquid electrical tape and shrink wrap to fix (don't carry spares but will start) but the light stays on. Is there a reset switch or do I still have a problem? Thanks in advance. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.

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#4. Re: This is sad, but true... - from D L Seeley
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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 15:58:23 -0800 From: D L Seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: This is sad, but true... I tacked a copy on my office wall. Every so often I check off a few more... Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido," #41 JP 95 330isA, super-commuter > From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:09:28 -0800 > To: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@home.com>, Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com>, > E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: This is sad, but true... > > > > YOU KNOW YOU ARE A RACER WHEN:

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:51:05 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question Good advice, but I know I've looked there and although there's TONS of discussion on trimming the Bilstein bump stops and VOLUMES of debate about whether it's necessary (I think it is), there's damn little in the way of actual instructions on how to do it... and you have to sift through a lot of garbage to get there. To answer Tim's question, yes - it's a rubber sleeve on the shaft of the shock. HOWEVER... one of the design "features" of the Bilstein is that it's an inverted shock. In theory, this reduces unsprung weight and also aids in cooling of the shock. The stock Boges and Koni inserts are regular upright shocks with the body of the shock in the strut tube and the shaft extending from the top. The top of the shaft is threaded and bolts to the strut bearing. The bump stop on this arrangement is on the shaft as Tim describes, surrounded by the spring, and visible just by looking at the strut. On the Bilstein, the body of the shock itself is what extends upward from the strut tube. A small threaded rod is welded to the top of the shock body to fit in the strut bearing. The shock shaft is therefore inside the strut tube and out of sight. The bump stop is on this shaft and can't be seen or easily accessed. I bought my Bilsteins custom valved from a shock expert, so I can't vouch for how to disassemble them. However, there's a nut on the bottom of the Bilstein that I assume must come off. I've also heard that you'll then see an allen screw which has to be removed and you have to be careful not to strip it. You then remove the shock from the strut tube, cut down the bump stop, and replace everything. How much to trim? Beats me? Why trim them? because they are too long for lowered E36 M3s and you end up riding on them rather than on your springs which affects spring rates and suspension travel in unpredictable ways. No, I don't know if a "how to" page to do this... wish there was one. Anyone with a better "how to" description or link? -- Ron Katona Matt Henson wrote: > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question > > Hi Tim, > This question isn't drivel but it has been covered > many times. Please search the archives at bmw-m.net. > You will find the answers to this and almost any other > M3-related question that you could imagine. > -Matt > > > --- Tim Gergen <tgergen@hotmail.com> wrote: > > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:28:05 +0000 > > From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> > > Subject: Another Bilstein Question > > > > I will be receiving my bilsteins in a week or so. I > > have heard that the > > bumpstop needs to be trimmed for something or other. > > > > On my last M, I did not trim anything, and they > > seemed fine. > > > > Can somebody tell me exactly WHAT needs to be > > trimmed...how...and why? Is > > there a link to a good page w/ info? > > > > I am ASSUMING the bumpstop is the "sleeve" that > > slides over the top of the > > strut? Details please. I would like to do this > > right the first time. > > > > If you like, you can just e-mail me at the above > > address to avoid cluttering > > the board with such drivel. TIA, TIM

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#6. Re: This is sad, but true... - from bs
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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:17:40 -0500 From: "bs" <m3bs@home.com> Subject: Re: This is sad, but true... Guilty on all counts, except for some of the ones about the garage. I'm still working on that!

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#7. Headlight swtich - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 23:22:14 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Headlight swtich R, >>Can some of you OBDII M3 guys help me? When you turn your headlights on, over there on the left side where the headlight switch is, there are a few white 'glyphs' just above the switch...Do your white glyphs light up as indicator lights when you turn either your parking or headlights on? Tonight, I had my EGT gauge installed... And, above my headlamp switch now, it is dark...And it very well may have always been dark...But for some peculiar reason, I seem to recall some kind of indicator lights above the headlight switch to either guide you to the headlight switch in the dark, or just to notify you what position the switch is in, when looking at the switch in the dark. Am I having a brain cramp, or are they all dark?!<< Thanks much...I guess the bulb burned out...But, let me get a couple more details....If I recall, isnt there more than 1 bulb? ie, isnt there 1 bulb behind the glyph for the prkng light indicator, and another behind the headlight indicator? An, a third near the foglight button? That would make 3 bulbs, if I remember right...Theyre all dark now...Im guessing it had something to do with the installation of my EGT gauge...He must have gone into the wiring to grab some power, and somehow either shorted out or disconnected the circuit for those bulbs. Let me know if you know whether there are the 3 bulbs, or just one...And, whether they are on just when the ignition is on, or when the lights themselves are on. Thanks much. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Dallas radiator shop - from Blair Hartsfield
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 08:43:25 -0600 From: Blair Hartsfield <res04ans@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dallas radiator shop Either Autoscope in Plano or Nine Eleven in Dallas. http://www.autoscopeltd.com or http://www.nine-eleven.com Both are well respected shops that I've used. Nine Eleven almost always saw my 95 M3 (before taking it club racing-now I do most everything myself). Nine Eleven performed flawless work for me on everything from alignments to rebuild/head work. Ask for Barry. Autoscope is recommended by many of our local 'TrackJunkies'. The owner (Nerces) now drives a 95 M3. They have worked on my wife's VW is my only experience with them. Both shops are Bosch authorized, Dinan installers, and have very good reputations. hth, blair > From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> > Reply-To: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:28:54 -0600 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Dallas radiator shop > > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:26:05 -0600 > From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> > Subject: Dallas radiator shop > > Can anyone recommend a radiator shop in the North Dallas area? My > brothers bimmer is overheating and I suspect a blocked passage. > > TIA, > > Dave > 95 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Headlight swtich - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 15:48:45 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Headlight swtich At 10:18 PM 12/15/2001 -0600, Paul Elliott wrote: >Let me know if you know whether there are the 3 bulbs, or just one...And, >whether they are on just when the ignition is on, or when the lights >themselves are on. Paul, there's just one. There's a neat little system of clear plastic tubes which funnel the light from the single grain-of-wheat bulb to the three indicator lights. - Chris

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#10. TRADE: MM11-2's, two 17x9 for two 17x8's - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 13:02:25 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: TRADE: MM11-2's, two 17x9 for two 17x8's Looking to Trade: I've got a pair of 17x9 Mille Miglia MM11-2's that I would like to trade for a pair of 17x8's. I've been running the 9's all the way around for track wheels, but I'm changing over to different set of wheels and want to run the MM11's on the street. The 17x9's fit in the rear of all E36's, or in the front with spacers. My wheels are excellent condition, with no cosmetic blemishes and they are straight and true. Looking for 17x8's that are the same. E-mail me if interested. -peterg

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#11. Re: [E36M3] Headlight swtich - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 16:13:04 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Headlight swtich Hi Chris, Thanks...I just replaced it...What I did was pop off the panel with the vent and lamp switch..Removed the foglight connector, and unscrewed the main harness connector...Then, I prised off the headlamp switch, and unscrewed with a 7/8" socket the lock nut holding it together. There, I saw the little bulb, which looked burned out....Turns out its a type '74' which most autoparts stores will stock. Replaced the bulb, buttoned things back up, and bingo, that's how I remember it should be! From what I've heard lately, alot of folks are driving around with this indicator lamp out, not really being sure whether or not 'their's' was ever lit or not...It was!! thanks. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Papademetrious" <chrispitude@yahoo.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Cc: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 3:48 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Headlight swtich > At 10:18 PM 12/15/2001 -0600, Paul Elliott wrote: > >Let me know if you know whether there are the 3 bulbs, or just one...And, > >whether they are on just when the ignition is on, or when the lights > >themselves are on. > > Paul, there's just one. There's a neat little system of clear plastic > tubes which funnel the light from the single grain-of-wheat bulb to the > three indicator lights. > > - Chris > > >

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