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#1. RE: Another Bilstein Question - from Dan Hermann
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 16:07:43 -0600 From: "Dan Hermann" <dah328@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Another Bilstein Question <lots of discussion about Bilstein bump stops clipped> ron is right about everything he says about the bilsteins. tim, i didn't see you mention what springs you're running with the Bilsteins. if they're stock you _might_ be able to get away w/o trimming them. i still would just so i wouldn't have to tear apart the suspension again if i were wrong. if you're using any kind of lowering springs, it's been my experience you'll need to trim (or remove) the bump stops for sure. Lowell Seaton sent me a very good writeup about 2 weeks ago when i did this myself. with appropriate attribution to him, here it is: From : LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] bump stops on bilsteins Date : Wed, 5 Dec 2001 04:52:26 EST Dan, My favorite subject! Bilstein bumpstops!! ;-) Four words of advice: Get rid of them!! My slightly lowered M3 constantly bounced off of the front bumpstops. The ride about drove me crazy. It was like riding a pogo stick. I was about to junk the Bilsteins. After I removed the front internal bumpstops, the ride is still extremely firm (harsh even) but livable for me. I don't have the "bouncy" ride. But yes, to remove the front bumpstops is not easy. Dang it! I intended to do a tech write up on it! I even took pictures. I thought I had scared everybody away from Bilstein by now. :-) You have to unscrew the shaft from the bottom of the strut. Remember the front Bilsteins are upside down monotube shocks. You should have a 17 mm nut and a slotted screw in the bottom of the strut. I recommend buying a screwdriver bit for your rachet. It takes a lot of effort to screw the shaft out of the housing, especially if it has seen some weather. First back the 17 mm nut off until it is flush with the end of the screw. Don't remove the nut. It will help hold your screwdriver bit in place. Now the hard part. If you have a vise - great. Clamp the strut in the vise. Or else have a friend hold the strut steady for you as you bear down as hard as you can with your screwdriver/rachet and turn the shaft. Remember to turn it CLOCKWISE. You are screwing it into the housing. Hopefully it breaks loose and you can turn the slotted shaft without damaging the threads. You can try some WD-40 etc. to loosen it up. But what finally worked for me was to put the screwdriver bit on an air wrench and zapping it off. If you can put enough weight on the rachet, I think you can probably get it off. Good luck. Eventually you will have to remove the nut entirely. Just carefully screw the shaft all the way into the housing. Once you have this accomplished, it is simple. Just pull the top out. Don't worry about anything exploding in your face. The troublemaking bumpstop will be obvious. It is 2 7/8 inches long. I recommend just taking it off and throwing it away. Put the strut back together without any bumpstop. I promise you, any impact hard enough to fully compress a Bilstein strut will destroy the car. Bumpstops with Bilsteins are redundant. If you want to keep part of the bumpstop, use a hacksaw and cut 1 inch off. Use the 1 inch part and throw the other 1 7/8 inch away. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#2. Re: Dallas radiator shop - from Josh Criswold
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 14:26:38 -0800 (PST) From: Josh Criswold <g_force_alt@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Dallas radiator shop Dave, No personal experience, but a friend of mine with a 3.0 Coupe has had good experiences and reccomends Clicks Radiator in Deep Ellum. Josh '72 2002tii '98 M3 > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:26:05 -0600 > From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> > Subject: Dallas radiator shop > > Can anyone recommend a radiator shop in the North > Dallas area? My > brothers bimmer is overheating and I suspect a > blocked passage. > > TIA, > > Dave > 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 18:12:29 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question Tim, Ironically, you asked the same question *exactly* 2 years ago, LOL. JimC responded with the trimming procedure which I happened to save. I've included it below. Nick ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 3:48 PM Subject: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question > Can somebody tell me exactly WHAT needs to be trimmed...how...and why? Is > there a link to a good page w/ info? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Conforti" <lndshrk@xmission.com> To: "Tim Gergen" <m3gizmo@hotmail.com> Cc: <e36m3@Mailing-List.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 4:37 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilstein bumpstops > Tim Gergen wrote: > > > > I need a little help here. 95 M3, Bilstein w/ H&R's. > > > So, do I need to open the strut? This sounds BAD to me. Is there a tech > > proceedure on this that anybody has written up? Any help would be much > > appreciated. > > Yes.. you'll need a few things.. > > Large honkin' screwdriver (flat blade) > > Large breaker bar. > > Vise (to hold strut.. > > OK.. assuming the struts are out of your car.. springs are > off them, and the struts are sitting on your bench. > > Put strut in vise, top down. > > Look at what was the "bottom" of the strut casing and you'll > see a nut.. loosen this nut.. but don't remove it yet.. > > You want the nut to just be a bit above the end of the slotted > rod.. > > Now, using the screwdriver and something to apply some serious > torque to the rod.. (the opposite direction of removing the nut) > and the rod will begin to thread INTO the strut body. > > Soon, you will bottom out against the partially removed > nut.. loosen the nut another few turns and screw the rod in > that many turns.. > > Eventually the nut comes off the top, and the rod can be screwed > completely thru the body of the strut. > > Now, the "top" of the strut w/ rubber dust boot will pull > completely out of the "bottom" or "casing". > > In the rod that you unscrewed you will find a rubber bump stop > cut it in half and then reassemble the strut. > > Jim
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#4. Speeding Ticket - from Patrick Dargan
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 18:40:11 -0500 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Speeding Ticket We're in Florida for the winter. =20 Yesterday I got a speeding ticket. =20 58 in 45. =20 My bad. =20 Total inattention. =20 Talking to the wife was not paying attention to where the limit reduced from 55 to 45 as we approached the commercial area. =20 Sheriff's Deputy (??) writes on the ticket: =20 "Radar detector in car". =20 So, be forewarned. =20 Hey, --- what does that have to do with anything. No radar involved. = He was tailing for me for less that 1/4 mile.??????? =20 =20
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 05:21:25 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question Lowell Seaton posted a detailed procedure for trimming the bump stops. -rb >Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:51:05 -0500 >From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Bilstein Question <snip> >How much to trim? Beats me? Why trim them? because they are too long for >lowered E36 M3s and you end up riding on them rather than on your >springs which affects spring rates and suspension travel in >unpredictable ways. No, I don't know if a "how to" page to do this... >wish there was one. > >Anyone with a better "how to" description or link? >-- >Ron Katona _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] snow tire recommendationa on an E36 M3 - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 23:24:08 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] snow tire recommendationa on an E36 M3 I just wanted to let everyone know what the final result of my query was. Many people seemed to favor the Blizzacks in their responses. In addition, a fellow M3 owner at the dealer mentioned very good things when I noticed snow tires on his car in the parking lot as well. The real clincher was reading the reviews on the various different tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/bridgestone/bs_lm22.jsp Click on the 'Reviews' link in the upper left and check out what people had to say. The fact that so many people mentioned their dry performance when it *wasn't* snowing is what interested me. I ordered a set of four in the 225-45R17 size for $625.34 shipped. I considered some cheaper tires in the 215-45R17 size, but I wasn't sure they'd like the twisty roads here in the dry, and the reviews weren't as favorable about their dry performance. - Chris
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#7. speedware motorsports harness bar - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 23:23:43 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: speedware motorsports harness bar Anyone in the bay area interested in buying a speedware motorsports harness bar? I decided that I'm probably not going to do many more track events. It will only fit a 4 door M3. Bolts right in, allows you to mount harnesses to it. Back seat is still useable (I can still get 4 245/40r17 BFG-R1s in the car. (I got 255/40r17 Kumhos in too, but they weren't as easy. :) I'd like to get $325. I paid $450 (including shipping) for it, about 10 months ago. Bar works great, stiffens the chassis quite a bit, and looks mean! I won't ship it, it's a pain, but can deliver in the bay area... -kit 97 m3
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#8. Re: Brake warning light - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:00:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake warning light on 12/16/01 4:18 PM, "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> wrote: > The brake pad light in my '99 came on last night. > > Checked it out. Brakes are fine, about 75% left, but the rear sensor wire > was worn and touching the wheel. > > I used liquid electrical tape and shrink wrap to fix (don't carry spares but > will start) but the light stays on. The brake wear sensor circuit consists of a continuous loop of wire with a voltage applied. When the pads start to get thin, the brake rotor rubs against the sensor pill, wearing it away and breaking the circuit. > Is there a reset switch or do I still have a problem? In your case the circuit has been broken in the sensor wire. Patching the break won't help. You need to replace the brake sensor. The warning light will then reset itself, although it will take a few brake applications before this happens. Neil 96 M3
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#9. Re: Another Bilstein Question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:05:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Another Bilstein Question on 12/16/01 4:18 PM, "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> wrote: > Good advice, but I know I've looked there and although there's TONS of > discussion on trimming the Bilstein bump stops and VOLUMES of debate > about whether it's necessary (I think it is), there's damn little in the > way of actual instructions on how to do it... and you have to sift > through a lot of garbage to get there. <snip> > How much to trim? Beats me? Why trim them? because they are too long for > lowered E36 M3s and you end up riding on them rather than on your > springs which affects spring rates and suspension travel in > unpredictable ways. No, I don't know if a "how to" page to do this... > wish there was one. > > Anyone with a better "how to" description or link? > -- > Ron Katona As I recall, some months ago Lowell Seaton posted a detailed description of both why and how to trim the Bilstein bump stops. I'd say it's about the definitive statement on the subject. Presumably it can be found in the archives. Neil 96 M3 - Konis
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#10. Re: Koni Question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:10:22 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni Question on 12/14/01 4:18 PM, Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com wrote: > I was wondering if all the Koni sets sold are just strut inserts, or > whether some actually come installed on the E36M3 housings. TC Kline's web > site makes it sound like you get struts, not strut inserts. Have they done > the install themselves? Some shops that carry the Koni inserts will also sell them installed in casings, for a price of course and subject to used casing availability. However most people do it themselves or have it done locally. I have how-to instructions should you need them. Note that Koni also has a complete M3 strut now, although I haven't seen them myself and don't know anyone that has them. Neil 96 M3 - Koni/H&R Sport
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#11. Re: Replacing all bushings?? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:16:07 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Replacing all bushings?? on 12/15/01 6:28 PM, "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> wrote: > I'm a big fan of the Powerflex bushings. They can be had from several > retailers. I purchased mine from www.opmd.com. In my opinion, of all the > bushings that you should go aftermarket and not OE with are the trailing arm > bushings. The stock ones aren't very robust and worn bushings cause crazy > toe changes that can be felt during braking, throttle roll on coming out of > corners, straight line acceleration, just about everywhere. <snip> > BTW, the Powerflex bushings are softer than conventional hard, squeaky poly > bushings but harder than stock; perfect for the enthusiast IMHO. When using any less resilient trailing arm bushings it might be a good idea to inspect the body mount area regularly. The welding around the 3 threaded inserts that hold the trailing arm carrier is a known weak spot. Stiffer bushings will obviously communicate higher shock loading to those mounts. This isn't to say that the area will fail, just that there's a greater risk. Neil 96 M3